# Power Steering/HICAS removing all the [email protected]



## Sub Boy (Jan 28, 2008)

While I have the engine out, I want to get rid of all the useless HICAS lines and the pump on the chassis rail etc....Is there anything I can't remove? Speed sensor anywhere?

I'm going to pull the power steer apart and remove the rear steer part and get the shaft machined down.

Any other tricks?:bowdown1:


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## infamous_t (Jul 9, 2007)

Save the HICAS lines for fuel lines if your going down the e85 down the track.
I think there is more weight in the rear that can be removed if you use the Midori type HICAS elimination instead of the usual lock bar.
Don't forget to get rid of the hideous HICAS solenoid... that thing pisses me off :chuckle:

I think the HICAS ecu is the only thing that has to be left in place.


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## Austrian GTR (Oct 28, 2008)

You can also remove the HICAS ecu, steering will get slightly stiffer as your power steering is then no longer speed dependent. The solenid on the steering rack opens just so far like it would open when you're driving 60km/h (kind of safe mode).

What are you doing at the front, loop it or remove it completely???


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## Sub Boy (Jan 28, 2008)

Going to take all the lines out also, Toyed with the idea of using them for fuel lines, but you need four times as many fittings, and they are the expencive bits...So will just go for some teflon braided line when needed.

Still want to retain the speed dependent steering, But I want to take the solinoid out....Is this going to be an issue?


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## freakazoid3 (Jan 19, 2008)

Speed dependant steering won't work once you ditch the hicas system.

But what I've done is; remove all hicas stuff front to back (and I mean all of it inc Hicas ecu and wiring) remove powersteering cooler aswell

Remove power steering pump and bracket and fit R33 equivalent as it's much lighter and spins much easier, undo solenoide on powersteeringrack that controls steering harshness and open it up, lengthen the spring inside with 2 small washers, put it all together again and your steeringwheel will be light and the car will have lost a decent amount off weight 

And I've been on 2 hard trackdays since and never had issues with my PS :thumbsup:


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## Sub Boy (Jan 28, 2008)

Is there a way to retain the speed sense without having to leave the solinoid?


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## freakazoid3 (Jan 19, 2008)

Not that I know off, as soon as the hicas bulb lights up the speed dependant steering won't work anymore, but making it permanently lighter as I described above will work a treat too


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## Austrian GTR (Oct 28, 2008)

Sub Boy said:


> Is there a way to retain the speed sense without having to leave the solinoid?


The solenoid for the speed dependent steering sits directely on the steering rack and has nothing to do with the big HICAS solenoid at the front and the smaller HICAS solenoid at the rear...

...as long as you keep your HICAS ECU connected you have the speed dependent steering 

You can ditch all the other stuff tho :smokin:

Just don't forget to remove the HICAS warning light on the dash as it will light up as soon as you disconnect any of the HICAS stuff.

HTH

Leo


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## freakazoid3 (Jan 19, 2008)

In my R32 gtr the speed dependant steering stopped working and the steering wheel became heavy as soon as the hicas light was on in the dash 

This was before I removed everything


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## Austrian GTR (Oct 28, 2008)

freakazoid3 said:


> In my R32 gtr the speed dependant steering stopped working and the steering wheel became heavy as soon as the hicas light was on in the dash
> 
> This was before I removed everything


That's weird 

Mine worked perfect until I removed the HICAS ecu (all other stuff was already removed)...

...since then it got heavier.


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## freakazoid3 (Jan 19, 2008)

Yeah well he can try your way first and if the steering goes heavy just open the solenoide to sort it again


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## Austrian GTR (Oct 28, 2008)

Yep 

BTW, you told me in the other thread that you opened up the steering solenoid and modified the valve to make the steering a little lighter, when the ps is removed...

...have you also thought about just wiring up the solenoid to an ignition plus (perhaps with a resistor in between if the control voltage is not that high) to keep the valve open at its max this way???


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## freakazoid3 (Jan 19, 2008)

I tried to at first but it seemed just putting 12V on it didn't do it at al.

So I assumed it worked on a block signal then or something or perhaps a lower voltage like 5V or some signal te Hicas ecu sends to it.
So I just opened it up on good luck not wanting to get the Oscilloscoop out that late at night and got it sorted that way


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## Austrian GTR (Oct 28, 2008)

Okay, then I think I'll give it a try :nervous:

Else I'll choose your option number two if I can't figure it out


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## freakazoid3 (Jan 19, 2008)

Let me know if you do figure it out to save me the hassle next time


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## Sub Boy (Jan 28, 2008)

Cheers guys, Will see how I go.


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## R.I.P.S NZ (May 7, 2004)

I can't believe Glen hasn't been along to tell you to SEARCH!!! lol.


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## freakazoid3 (Jan 19, 2008)

Maybe he's on a holiday... :nervous: :chuckle:


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## Sub Boy (Jan 28, 2008)

R.I.P.S NZ said:


> I can't believe Glen hasn't been along to tell you to SEARCH!!! lol.


Cheers Rob....Very helpfull!:flame:


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## jasaircraft (Feb 15, 2009)

so how did this end up?


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## Sub Boy (Jan 28, 2008)

Yet to find out, The engine is still out.....Waiting on the turbo.


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## jasaircraft (Feb 15, 2009)

how about now¿


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## jasaircraft (Feb 15, 2009)

Im gonna remove my hicas system in the next days in my free hours... I was wondering what about just removing the 2nd vane and leaving the shaft alone, put a bolt with its seal where the hicas line used to go... it should do the trick right?

I cant wait to remove the big solenoid under the intake plenum... takes too much space...


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## infamous_t (Jul 9, 2007)

jasaircraft said:


> Im gonna remove my hicas system in the next days in my free hours... I was wondering what about just removing the 2nd vane and leaving the shaft alone, put a bolt with its seal where the hicas line used to go... it should do the trick right?
> 
> I cant wait to remove the big solenoid under the intake plenum... takes too much space...


Had my mechanic do this for me while it was in for a tune a couple of weeks ago, I can see past the engine to the ground for once!

PS pump was disassembled and hicas stage taken out, output bolted up.
Might need a separate PS cooler now though.

Used midori arms to lock HICAS, lots of weight taken out overall I'd imagine


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## jasaircraft (Feb 15, 2009)

infamous_t said:


> Had my mechanic do this for me while it was in for a tune a couple of weeks ago, I can see past the engine to the ground for once!
> 
> PS pump was disassembled and hicas stage taken out, output bolted up.
> Might need a separate PS cooler now though.
> ...


Hi mate so you emptied the hicas side but left its casing alone right? you put a blocking bolt and thats it right?

I dont know how necessary a ps cooler is because most rally racing subarus for instance dont use ps cooler.


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## infamous_t (Jul 9, 2007)

jasaircraft said:


> Hi mate so you emptied the hicas side but left its casing alone right? you put a blocking bolt and thats it right?


As it was explained to me and how I've seen the aftermath to be, yes.
I've seen a few threads (here & SAU) on removing the HICAS stage from the ps pump itself, maybe have a look if it's not clear to you.



jasaircraft said:


> I dont know how necessary a ps cooler is because most rally racing subarus for instance dont use ps cooler.


I'll wait and see, but Nissan put it there for a reason, but it might be purely down to HICAS creating the extra heat and might be fine without it.


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## geoffree (May 16, 2010)

Modify the plumbing and use the rear pump section to feed a decent power steer oil cooler ?????


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## infamous_t (Jul 9, 2007)

Sub Boy said:


> Is there a way to retain the speed sense without having to leave the solinoid?


FYI the POS solenoid is gone on mine and speed sensitive steering works fine 



geoffree said:


> Modify the plumbing and use the rear pump section to feed a decent power steer oil cooler ?????


Could do, but I don't think it makes anything any easier or harder other than maybe not having to disassemble the PS pump.

You would still have duplication of lines however, which isn't ideal IMO


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## jasaircraft (Feb 15, 2009)

Ok, removed it all! hicas delete bar in place (japspeed). From a quick measurement I removed about 17 kilos (spring scale)(will do a more precise measurement), and the bar weighs exactly 896grams(digital scale).
I will post pics soon... I ended up removing the inside vein and its pallets, so it shouldnt pump anything! also I will have to fill extra oil, the volume of the vein+pallets.
Crossing my fingers so I dont get any attesa or abs codes.


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## jasaircraft (Feb 15, 2009)

Ok so all went good, I didnt take pics because I was too lazy but I weighed all the components (all lines including the two that go to the back, big solenoid, rack, small/big bolts, plates, the pump's inners, etc) with a Kamasa weight scale... I first tested the scale's precision with a new 5kilo gym weight and it was spot on.
So everything measured came 18kilos, maybe 300g more or less. The japspeed delete bar that went in was 896 grams(with digital scale).
So overall result about 17 kilograms reduction in weight. Pretty good


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## freakazoid3 (Jan 19, 2008)

And about halve a litre PAS fluid less aswell :chuckle:


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## Ricca91 (Dec 16, 2013)

Sorry for bad English. I have a Skyline GTR32 and i have installed Driftworks Hicas eliminator kit, but i would like remove total Hicas system and installed a power steering pumps without return. I would like to know in detail how to do it. If you can get a tutorial on how to remove all the parts because I am Italian, and no one here knows how to do. 
Which power steering pump can be taken to eliminate all hicas oil system? GTR33 powersteering pump or GTT???
thanks to all


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## Austrian GTR (Oct 28, 2008)

You need BCNR33 or BNR34 pump + pump bracket + crank pulley :thumbsup:

You can remove all HICAS lines and solenoids found in the engine bay and under the car at the back incl. HICAS cylinder.

Get yourself a BNR32 service manual which can be found online and will become your best friend when you're planing to do more work on your car 

http://www.240edge.com/manuals/r32_gtr.pdf

HTH

Leo


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## Ricca91 (Dec 16, 2013)

Thanks man for the informations! I have just downloaded R32 service manual.
I have already installed Driftworks rear arms (HICAS eliminator kit) and i have closed the rear HICAS pump. Now i would like to remove the rest of the HICAS system including solenoids and changing the power steering pump.

Is the GT-R 34 power steering pump - pump bracket - crank pulley a complete kit or have i to buy every single part??

Is it better to buy it new or used? 
Do you know some links where i can buy them? (ebay? forums? etc...)

Thank you, write me soon, bye!


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## Austrian GTR (Oct 28, 2008)

There is no such thing like a complete kit when you're doing a conversion to later spec parts mate 

You can check for part numbers and try to get them new or post something in the wanted section / check the for sale section for used parts your looking for :thumbsup:

Used will definitely be cheaper as a new PS pump is quite expensive, for the crank pulley you should consider going for a new damper like ATI or Ross with R33 / R34 spec which will also help you prevent your oil pump gear from breaking.

Cheers,

Leo


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## Ricca91 (Dec 16, 2013)

Thanks!!!!


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## Samwest (Feb 23, 2009)

So if you remove the hicas inc allt the lines and pumps etc, then you can remove the ps cooler to?


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## adamc (May 8, 2010)

When you remove all the solenoids from the engine bay, do you link the pipe that went from the pump to the solenoid with the pipe that went to the reservoir to the solenoid together? Leaving the reservoir and Pump now connected together!


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