# 4WD and A-LSD Light on...Help Please!!



## GTRUK (Jan 26, 2007)

Ok, really need some help on this please as I'm a little nervous driving it around without 4WD in this weather (it wheels spins coming on to my drive! :nervous

Initially the fluid in the reservoir in the boot was low so I've topped it up to max the level. (Silly question but should it be at Max or more? Only reason I ask is the picture in this 'how to' post shows the fluid to be waaay above Max: R32 Gtr Attessa Fluid - Skylines Australia)

The lights remain off for a few minutes after starting it up (I'd say approximately 4-5 mins) but then the lights come on. This is immediately after the electric whining noise from the rear stops. Could someone please tell me what this noise is? 

I've recently had the car under sealed – could this be the cause of it? Have they applied the under seal over some part they shouldn't have?

Any advice much appreciated!!


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

Read the codes , then tell us what it is.

tyndago - GT-R ATTESA information


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## GTRUK (Jan 26, 2007)

Ah, this is the other thing? Where on the car do I find these codes and how? (Sorry bare with me... )


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## TREG (May 20, 2004)

Do you have a torque controller fitted?
Have you checked 4wd fuse?


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## MR_GTR (Nov 19, 2007)

The whining nosie you are hearing is the ATTESSA pumps. Was the system completely dry when you topped it up? I have had a couple of situations where the system had gone low, it was topped up but had an air lock and wouldn't engage 4WD. Is the car running rough? Just have a quick visual check under the rear and make sure none of the plugs are unplugged. If you're hearing the pumps whine then i'd say it's more than likely a mechanical issue rather than electronic.

Also check the TPS is plugged in or not faulty as the Attessa requires a signal from the TPS.

If the pumps are working it would rule out a blown fuse.

Basically as sean said do a diagnostic. Under the driver side dash there is a small 14 pin plug. If you ground terminal 4 (and keep it grounded while you test) it will display the code via a series of flashes of the ABS light. Count the flashes then refer to seans diagram as to which fault code is present.


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

Its not going to be a fuse - it would be straight away a light, not after 4 -5 min. Normally something like that is a wheel speed sensor, which would go with undercoating. Could also be something like a low tire, or different sized tires front to rear.

If you look at the page I posted, there is a procedure for the R34. Its the same for an R33, but the connector is in the kickpanel on the drivers side , near where you foot is on the accelerator.


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## TREG (May 20, 2004)

A 33 has Electric Hicas so the Power steering fluid fix will not work ( the 32 is the only car that has hyraulic Hicas )

Normally if the 4wd lights comes on by itself it will be a low fluid level.

If the 4wd lights and ABS lights come on it will be throttle switch or ABS sensor.

If the 4wd/ABS/HICAS lights come on normally the rear wiper pipe broken and it has flooded the ECU,s in the boot.

hope this helps.


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## GTRUK (Jan 26, 2007)

*TREG*
I don't have a torque split controller
I will check the fuse in the morning but as suggested I would have thought the light comes on immediately if the fuse has gone.

No ABS or HICAS light just 4WD (and A-LSD)


*MR_GTR*
No it wasn't completely dry but it was about the distance between MAX and MIN, below the MIN line… if that makes sense?! It's not moved since me topping it up a few a couple of weeks ago.

Would under sealing over/ around the pumps cause any issues? i.e. do they have any mechanical parts outside as such?


*tyndago*
I have the same tyre pressures and sizes all round. (I've checked pressures today)

I will give the diagnostic procedure a go and see what code(s) I get.

The problem is also present if I turn the car on and no drive it at all so could it still be the wheel speed sensor?


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

The last weird codes I had, were all ground related. On one , the ground on the alternator was loose, and that was causing a TPS code. The other I was getting a wheel speed code, and it was a ground that wasn't connected.


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## MR_GTR (Nov 19, 2007)

GTRUK said:


> *TREG*
> I don't have a torque split controller
> I will check the fuse in the morning but as suggested I would have thought the light comes on immediately if the fuse has gone.
> 
> ...


Doubtful, but not impossible. Possibly causing a short on one of the wheel speed sensors, or in one of the connectors on the Attessa pumps.



GTRUK said:


> The problem is also present if I turn the car on and no drive it at all so could it still be the wheel speed sensor?


 It could still be a wheel sensor fault as it may be a short.


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## neilo (Nov 17, 2004)

Have you checked your diff fluid as if it's low the lsd and 4wd lights will show up and it will only run in rear wheel drive.

Neil


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## TREG (May 20, 2004)

neilo said:


> Have you checked your diff fluid as if it's low the lsd and 4wd lights will show up and it will only run in rear wheel drive.
> 
> Neil



Where its location Neil?


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## neilo (Nov 17, 2004)

In my 34 it's behind a removable panel in the boot on the drivers side.


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## TREG (May 20, 2004)

neilo said:


> In my 34 it's behind a removable panel in the boot on the drivers side.



Thats cool, same on the 33..


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## MR_GTR (Nov 19, 2007)

neilo said:


> In my 34 it's behind a removable panel in the boot on the drivers side.


Thats the attessa fluid not the diff oil..
:squintdan


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## neilo (Nov 17, 2004)

ahhhh if it low though it will still run in rear wheel drive.

Neil


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## GTRUK (Jan 26, 2007)

Mine is exactly on Max. 

Should it be higher? This pic shows it to be alot higher... Mine is on the top line


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## neilo (Nov 17, 2004)

That should be fine and not cause your light to come up.


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## TREG (May 20, 2004)

GTRUK said:


> Mine is exactly on Max.
> 
> Should it be higher? This pic shows it to be alot higher... Mine is on the top line


Its too high if anything mate.


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## GTRUK (Jan 26, 2007)

Ok, I've driven the car tonight approx 20miles... the light seems to stay off when I'm driving but if I park up and am stationary for 4-5mins then it comes back on. I have to turn the engine off and then back on to make the light go out. If I continue driving the light remains off… but again if I stop, 4-5mins later, its on again... odd?!

Any thoughts?


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## TREG (May 20, 2004)

Could be this mate? (Found by a search)
- throttle position sensor.
It's mounted at the back of the throttle linkage and has a short flylead coming off it.
I concluded mine was knack'd when i undid the two bolts and rotated it slightly. The lights went off (the next time i restarted the engine) and all was good. the only problem is this then starts to lock up the diff on the v-spec cars earlier (as the car thinks you are applying more throttle for the same given steering angle)
I replaced it and all is good.
A consult is very handy though as it tells you two things about this sensor
1. if the sensor is working
2. if the switch is working (it has a separate switch to tell the ecus the throttle is fully closed)

The TPS is used by ABS, 4WD and HICAS systems.


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## GTRUK (Jan 26, 2007)

Ah, this could be a good place to start... Any pics of what this should look like and where it is positioned?


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## GTRUK (Jan 26, 2007)

Could someone please tell me how I should test this? I know the part in question but need to work out how to do it...


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## TREG (May 20, 2004)

GTRUK said:


> Could someone please tell me how I should test this? I know the part in question but need to work out how to do it...





Use the search button at the top of the screen mate. Theres tons of info on here.


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

*R33 is the same as R34 for this test*

tyndago - GT-R ATTESA information

Self Diagnostic Procedure

1. Drive vehicle at approx. 30 km/h for approx. 1 minute

2. Stop vehicle and start diagnosis

3. Turn ignition switch "OFF"

4. Ground the self diagnostic terminal 4

5. Turn the ignition switch " ON" to start the self diagnostic results mode

CAUTION

KEEP terminal 4 grounded during self diagnosis

Do not depress brake pedal (Self diagnosis would not start)

Do not start engine (Self diagnosis would not start)

6. After 3 or 4 seconds, ABS warning lamp starts blinking to indicate the malfunction code


R33(Vspec and Regular)

1,5 Front right wheel sensor and circuit

2,6 Front left wheel sensor and circuit

3,7 Rear right wheel sensor and circuit

4,8 Rear left whel sensor and circuit

11,21 Front right inlet solenoid valve and circuit

12,22 Front left inlet solenoid valve and circuit

13,23 Rear inlet solenoid valve and circuit

15,25 Front right outlet solenoid valve and circuit

16,26 Front left outlet solenoid valve and circuit

17,27 Rear outlet solenoid valve and circuit

31,32,33 E-TS solenoid and circuit

34,35,36 E-TS fail safe solenoid and circuit

41,42 ABS actuator relay and circuit

43,44 ABS actuator motor , motor relay and circuit

45,46,77 ET-S/ABS control unit ground and circuit

47,48 E-TS/ABS control unit power supply and circuit

51,52 E-TS actuator motor and circuit

53,54 Pressure switch and circuit

55 Air bleed switch and circuit

56 E-TS oil level switch and circuit

61 FR and RR G sensor 1 and circuit

62 FR and RR G sensor 2 and circuit

63 FR and RR G sensor 1 or 2 and circuit

64 G sensor 1 power supply and circuit

65 G- sensor 2 power supply and circuit

66 Side G sensor and circuit
75 Throttle position sensor and circuit and sensor


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## GTRUK (Jan 26, 2007)

tyndago said:


> If you look at the page I posted, there is a procedure for the R34. Its the same for an R33, but the connector is in the kickpanel on the drivers side , near where you foot is on the accelerator.


Ok this is what it looks like up there... which one is the right plug? The one I've circled in red?


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

That looks like the right plug - its for the Nissan Diagnostic unit - the Consult. The ATTESA air bleed connector is just above it and to the left also. Wrapped in foam there.


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

Thats R34 , but you get the idea. You use this connector to run the ATTESA pump when bleeding air out of the system.


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## GTRUK (Jan 26, 2007)

Sorry to be simple but I just need to ground pin 4 in this grey (looks white in the pic) plug I've circled and then carry out the procedure, right?

Which ones pin 4... the plug looks different to the pic...:chairshot 









What are the black taped up things to the left (middle of the first pic)?


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

If its grey - then it is the right plug. It looked white in the pic, and they are normally grey.

Do the procedure, part of it is to ground pin 4, and the dash lights should show you the code. Its flashes. You count the flashes. Let it cycle though a few rounds, so you have it right, and if there are multiple codes.


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## GTRUK (Jan 26, 2007)

Ok that didn't seem to work. The ABS light is constant... I assumed "the self diagnostic terminal 4" is the one pointed to in the pic?


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

I'll try and make a video of me running the procedure on a car. Not until tomorrow.


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## GTRUK (Jan 26, 2007)

Sean that would be ideal! Then we could possibly make it a sticky for future reference too?

Also, I have another question – what would happen if there is no fault? would the ABS light blink at all?

I’m assuming with my issue the ECU doesn’t register a fault when the car is not start and potentially no fault registered for about 4 minutes whilst it is started?


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

GTRUK said:


> Sean that would be ideal! Then we could possibly make it a sticky for future reference too?
> 
> Also, I have another question – what would happen if there is no fault? would the ABS light blink at all?
> 
> I’m assuming with my issue the ECU doesn’t register a fault when the car is not start and potentially no fault registered for about 4 minutes whilst it is started?


It has to have a fault, otherwise you wouldnt get a 4wd - ALSD light. The ABS - 4WD - and ALSD are all part of the same computer/ system. 

I did have a ground on an R33 that would be on 3 out of 10 times you started. Then be off for a few minutes, then the 4wd - ALSD light would come on. It however showed up as a TPS fault, but it was a loose ground on the alternator.


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## GTRUK (Jan 26, 2007)

Am I going to have to take this to someone with consult?!


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

GTRUK said:


> Am I going to have to take this to someone with consult?!


Disregard my last post. R33 regular , Vspec, and R34 non Vspec are different. R34 Vspec can be read from in the car.

No. R33 Regular and Vspec - Self Diagnosis LED is read in the trunk.

There is a video in this page showing the location of the LED light.

tyndago - GT-R ATTESA information

1)Drive vehicle at 30 km/hr for at least 1 minute. Bring vehicle to a full stop. Do not turn off engine. Look at LED at top of control unit (red lamp). Note the number of times it blinks ON and OFF.

If two or more systems are malfunctioning, all warning lamps will blink ON and OFF

2) After completing required maintenance procedures, be sure to erase results of self diagnosis testing from memory

3) Once again drive vehicle at 30 km/hr for at least 1 minute. Check that the 4wd warning lamp and ABS warning lamp are off.


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## GTRUK (Jan 26, 2007)

Ahhh... so I don't need to fiddle with anything? Just count the number of blinks from the ECU in the boot? Great... will go have a look now...


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## Ropey (Jun 17, 2005)

Great thread. Perfect for those of us that don't know how to do this stuff. Hope you get it sorted GTRUK. Where abouts in West Sussex are you?


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## GTRUK (Jan 26, 2007)

Right, we're getting somewhere...!!

5 normal flashes then 3 fast flashes...

Code 53?


> 53,54 Pressure switch and circuit


What's that when it's at home... :nervous: 




Ropey said:


> Great thread. Perfect for those of us that don't know how to do this stuff. Hope you get it sorted GTRUK. Where abouts in West Sussex are you?


Ropey, I started off wanted to just solve my problem but it would be good to have a point of reference for this sort of thing.

I'm in Crawley... how about you?


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

Did you try bleeding the ATTESA system ? From your reservoir pic , it looks like there is some trapped air. There is the bleeder on the transfer case ,and also a bleeder on the ATTESA pump.


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## GTRUK (Jan 26, 2007)

That Pic is not from my car... it was from a 'How to bleed...' post I found through search. (I was just asking if it should be at that level of if that is the 'before' pic).

So is this code suggesting this is the issue?


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

GTRUK said:


> That Pic is not from my car... it was from a 'How to bleed...' post I found through search. (I was just asking if it should be at that level of if that is the 'before' pic).
> 
> So is this code suggesting this is the issue?


Pressure switch. The diagnosis is to measure between the terminals on the pressure switch. 

Theres no other troubleshooting other than to measure the resistance. If the accumulator internal pressure is decreasing to 27 kg/cm2 or less- continuity exists. When the pump runs the pressure is high the pressure switch is open. When the pump has stopped and pressure bleeds down the switch is closed.


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## GTRUK (Jan 26, 2007)

Getting a bit too technical for me now but I think this is in line with what happens. When the car is stationary, the pump stops whining after a few minutes. 

I want to understand the problem itself – why do the pumps stop?

Either way, I should try bleeding the ATTESA system?


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

GTRUK said:


> Getting a bit too technical for me now but I think this is in line with what happens. When the car is stationary, the pump stops whining after a few minutes.
> 
> I want to understand the problem itself – why do the pumps stop?
> 
> Either way, I should try bleeding the ATTESA system?


The pump stops when it builds pressure. It should stop and start.

You might want to try bleeding it. At this point , it looks like it might not be a cheap thing to get into.


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## speedmachine (Feb 1, 2007)

If the system needs bleeding which code does the Attesa Ecu normally flash?


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

speedmachine said:


> If the system needs bleeding which code does the Attesa Ecu normally flash?



It doesn't "normally" . It just doesn't work as well as it should. Air compresses more than a fluid, and it dead heads against the diaphragm that controls the lockup of the center diff.


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## GTRUK (Jan 26, 2007)

This is not getting any easier…

I borrowed a ramp in a friend's workshop and tried bleeding the Attesa this evening.

I tried following the instructions but connecting and disconnecting the air bleed connector doesn't seem to run the pump?

Also opened the bleeder screw, the oil that comes out is almost golden as oppose to redish and doesn't seem to have the ATF smell either?


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## 1990BNR32 (May 22, 2003)

this is good info. 4wd + ALSD lights coming on in my R34 Vspec also. When the engine is back in I'm going to want to get that sorted.

how to check on R34 Vspec?


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

GTRUK said:


> This is not getting any easier…
> Also opened the bleeder screw, the oil that comes out is almost golden as oppose to redish and doesn't seem to have the ATF smell either?


Nissan Hydramatic type D is what they say. ATF is the same stuff. I have run ATF in GT-Rs for years with no ill effects.

If you see fluid, then it should be bled. If you cycle the ignition, you should be able to hear the pump run and stop.


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

1990BNR32 said:


> this is good info. 4wd + ALSD lights coming on in my R34 Vspec also. When the engine is back in I'm going to want to get that sorted.
> 
> how to check on R34 Vspec?



Its in the page I posted. tyndago - GT-R ATTESA information


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## GTRUK (Jan 26, 2007)

tyndago said:


> If you see fluid, then it should be bled. If you cycle the ignition, you should be able to hear the pump run and stop.


Correct me if I'm wrong but surely I would always see fluid? Thought the idea is when it spurts thats the air coming out?  

I do hear the pump when turning the ignition on and off but not when connecting and disconnecting the bleed connector?


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## hesh (Jan 18, 2008)

hi all i know this an old thread but its very pertinent, my car was stood for 4 months and when i came back is throwing the intermittent fault code 6 long flashes and 3 short on the ecu in the boot. when the fault is present the relays next to the abs pumps are buzzin and the abs and 4wd lights come on. it does this either at ignition on or after a few minutes to an hour of driving. 

any help would be great, im not a great electrician ..


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

Is the battery new ? Might have a dead cell or something. Maybe some corrosion somewhere. 

Thats the first thing I would look at. 

tyndago - GT-R ATTESA information


My codes say 63 is the G Sensor. Odd for it to just break. Thats why I would look at power and grounds first before I think about replacing that $1000 part.


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## hesh (Jan 18, 2008)

the battery had died whilst standing to be honest .....

ive fitted a spare one i had fromthe spec two rebuild. and since.

which grounds do i need to check out?


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## hesh (Jan 18, 2008)

where is the g sensor located and is there any way i can check that myself?


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## TREG (May 20, 2004)

hesh said:


> the battery had died whilst standing to be honest .....
> 
> ive fitted a spare one i had fromthe spec two rebuild. and since.
> 
> which grounds do i need to check out?





Start at the top of the thread and try all of the above ideas!


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

hesh said:


> where is the g sensor located and is there any way i can check that myself?


G sensor is in the center console, near the hand brake. 

There is nothing you can do other than make sure its connected. If its reading a code as failed, its not a good thing at all. Like I said its around a $1000 part.

You will want to check everything else first. Make sure no corrosion on any battery terminals. Nothing else weird. 

I would reset the Attesa ECU and make sure the code comes back. 

It would be a part that I have never seen fail before, but they can fail.


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

Theres a little red high shock sensor on the G-sensor itself. Most of them are red, and they still work fine. That is not an indication of how the sensor itself works.


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## hesh (Jan 18, 2008)

ok ..i just realsied i didnt say my car is gts4 saloon ..early r33 (1994) so i think it has the r32 gtr system. not sure if it'll make a difference.

resetting the attessa ecu? what ive left the car off and the fault doesnt always apear ..so how do reset this ecu?


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## qtb3731 (Oct 29, 2010)

*AWD + A-LSD Light Up*

This is what happened to me since last week!

The "4WD + A-LSD" light up after a few mins driving and stayed off if restart the engine, but light up again after a few mins.
This is the typical issue that Gtr is facing and hopefully i could solve this issue soon.

By the way has anyone been successful in solving this issue yet?
Please share.

Thank you.


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

qtb3731 said:


> This is what happened to me since last week!
> 
> The "4WD + A-LSD" light up after a few mins driving and stayed off if restart the engine, but light up again after a few mins.
> This is the typical issue that Gtr is facing and hopefully i could solve this issue soon..


Your car is a Vspec? R34?

Check the level of the ATTESA reservoir in the trunk, its probably low.

You need to read the code from the ATTESA unit.

Nissan Skyline GT-R R34 ATTESA Codes

R33 ECU location and R33/R34 ATTESA self diagnosis procedure.

http://gtrusa.blogspot.com/2007/11/r33-attesa-ecu-location.html


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## qtb3731 (Oct 29, 2010)

Tyndago,

My car is Gtr34, Vspec2.
I have checked the reservoir, it's still full.
I would check the diagnostic code later today.


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## gibson (Feb 21, 2005)

check engine the chassie earthing my 34 had a problem similar to this fitted a Nismo voltage stabliser and added a earth from engine to inner guard all fixed.


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## qtb3731 (Oct 29, 2010)

I tried to diagnose the car, but funny enough, the Pin "4" is not found on the Data Link Connector! So, not code for me yet.
Dunno why Nissan has taken it out for V-Spec2?
I have noticed that while turning on the aircond, the "4wd + A-Lsd" check light would appear very fast, within 2 mins of driving.
If i turn off the aircond while driving, the "4wd + A-Lsd" check light would appear slower, around 4-5 mins. Still hunting from this Clue...
I am still in the process of checking the ground wiring...


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

What sized tires do you have front and rear? Are they worn out?

There is a connector, next to the diagnostic connector. Its a one wire, white connector. Disconnect that, and ground it. I am not 100% on which side to ground.


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## qtb3731 (Oct 29, 2010)

Tyndago,

Isn't that is the air bleed connector?
Grounding this wire will enter the self-diagnosis mode?


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

qtb3731 said:


> Tyndago,
> 
> Isn't that is the air bleed connector?
> Grounding this wire will enter the self-diagnosis mode?


I had to look at my own notes. Not sure why you don't have a terminal 4 with the Vspec II. 

I have not seen any specific notes related to the Vspec II.


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## qtb3731 (Oct 29, 2010)

Ya, i am surprised to find this as well.
Actually i can short the abs cpu of pin25 to ground.
Pin4 of the data link connector is just an easy way to diagnose the car.
I would not do this unless i have ruled out all the possible problems.
Now still searching for ground fault.


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## qtb3731 (Oct 29, 2010)

I think i managed to solve this issue.
After much searching of the fault, it was the ATF oil level of power steering!
According to the work shop manual, 4wd & A-Lsd is belonged to the brake system. The ATF oil level is belonged to the power streering system. Just curious that the ATF oil level of the power steering would affect the 4wd & A-Lsd system...it was supposed to be the "HICAS" check light.
Anyway, thank you all for the information given.
Good luck.


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## huracan0613 (May 24, 2006)

ok, i have just fallen victim of this curse. i do apologize for bring back this thread but those freakin lights drive me crazy. basically what happens is as everybody says above on this thread. after doing everything they said, they just keep coming up. maybe, i'm doing something wrong. this resulted after i pulled the motor for an overhaul and the lights just came up after. the fault code reads tps fault even after i replaced it with a brand new one. so, has anyone found a solution yet? please post up.


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

The last TPS code I had was a loose wire on the alternator.


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## huracan0613 (May 24, 2006)

great, will check on that...


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## marknjayne (Jan 8, 2005)

i have the exact same problem...


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

marknjayne said:


> i have the exact same problem...


What code?


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## BNR34GTR (Aug 8, 2011)

I'm getting codes 12 and 66 on 34 vspec what do you guys think that is? 4wd and alsd and abs lights come on at times and under heavy braking.


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## marknjayne (Jan 8, 2005)

tyndago said:


> What code?


7 fast flashes and 5 slow,i assume thats code 75 rather than code 7 and code 5


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

BNR34GTR said:


> I'm getting codes 12 and 66 on 34 vspec what do you guys think that is? 4wd and alsd and abs lights come on at times and under heavy braking.


Sounds like the G sensor for 66 - 66 FR & RR sensor 1 or 2

Nissan Skyline GT-R R34 ATTESA Codes


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

marknjayne said:


> 7 fast flashes and 5 slow,i assume thats code 75 rather than code 7 and code 5


Sounds like a TPS error. Check the voltage of the sensor. Check the sensor itself. I had a loose wire on the alternator on an R33 cause a TPS code.


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## BNR34GTR (Aug 8, 2011)

What does it mean fr and rr which sensors does that refer to?


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

BNR34GTR said:


> What does it mean fr and rr which sensors does that refer to?


Its only a single physical part, but with 3 g sensors built into it.


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## marknjayne (Jan 8, 2005)

tyndago said:


> Sounds like a TPS error. Check the voltage of the sensor. Check the sensor itself. I had a loose wire on the alternator on an R33 cause a TPS code.


voltage is perfect on tps,0.28 through to 3.90v,but all seems to be pointing to the tps,i would have thought though a loose connection on the alternator would drain the battery and thats showing full voltage


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

Electrical diagram of the R34 ATTESA system. 

ATTESA ETS Pro Electrical Circuit Diagram


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

marknjayne said:


> voltage is perfect on tps,0.28 through to 3.90v,but all seems to be pointing to the tps,i would have thought though a loose connection on the alternator would drain the battery and thats showing full voltage


Should be around 0.5 at idle.

The loose wire only seemed to cause noise in the circuit. You can theory about it all you want, but that is exactly what happened to one car. I trouble shot it forever, everything else fine. Found the loose wire, tightened it up, and everything was good. I did not put an o-scope on it, but I am sure if I did, I would have seen an odd wave or something on it.


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## marknjayne (Jan 8, 2005)

tyndago said:


> Electrical diagram of the R34 ATTESA system.
> 
> ATTESA ETS Pro Electrical Circuit Diagram


i have looked at that but the code is showing tps ,but....the tps is showing the correct voltage


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## marknjayne (Jan 8, 2005)

tyndago said:


> Should be around 0.5 at idle.


i know but give or take 0.2 of a volt wont make any difference


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## BNR34GTR (Aug 8, 2011)

Ok and I presume the location of this is under central console box?


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## marknjayne (Jan 8, 2005)

BNR34GTR said:


> Ok and I presume the location of this is under central console box?


location of?


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## BNR34GTR (Aug 8, 2011)

The g sensor unit you speak about


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## BNR34GTR (Aug 8, 2011)

Sorry those comments are directed to tyndago


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## marknjayne (Jan 8, 2005)

BNR34GTR said:


> The g sensor unit you speak about


on a 32 its in the boot,in a 33 its between the armrest and gearleaver,dont know about the 34 but i would assume its in the same place as the 33


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## BNR34GTR (Aug 8, 2011)

Yes I think it is below the armrest. Il have a look at tommorow. What voltages should be seen on probe?


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

marknjayne said:


> on a 32 its in the boot,in a 33 its between the armrest and gearleaver,dont know about the 34 but i would assume its in the same place as the 33


They are all in the center console area. R32,R33, R34.


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

marknjayne said:


> i know but give or take 0.2 of a volt wont make any difference


You have a TPS code, you have a parameter out of spec, and you say it won't make a difference? Its worth a shot to make it correct, and see if it helps rather than just dismiss it.


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## marknjayne (Jan 8, 2005)

tyndago said:


> They are all in the center console area. R32,R33, R34.


was told by a guy who builds track 32's that they are in the rear of the car on them...but i dont know myself


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## marknjayne (Jan 8, 2005)

tyndago said:


> You have a TPS code, you have a parameter out of spec, and you say it won't make a difference? Its worth a shot to make it correct, and see if it helps rather than just dismiss it.


this is true buddy,it cant hurt to set it bang on 0.5v


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## MikeFinlayson (Dec 23, 2008)

I had a similar problem on my r33gtr v spec warning lights & loss of fwd & it turned out to be to a leak from the rear wash wipe dripping onto the electrics in the boot.It took a few goes with a hairdryer buit solved the problem


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## marknjayne (Jan 8, 2005)

MikeFinlayson said:


> I had a similar problem on my r33gtr v spec warning lights & loss of fwd & it turned out to be to a leak from the rear wash wipe dripping onto the electrics in the boot.It took a few goes with a hairdryer buit solved the problem


the only time mine ever gets wet is when its washed lol,and thats rare


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

marknjayne said:


> was told by a guy who builds track 32's that they are in the rear of the car on them...but i dont know myself


He may have told you the ATTESA ECU is in the trunk. The G sensor is in the center console. If he told you its in the trunk, you should find someone else to listen to. 

The G sensor needs to be near the center of the car to work effectively. 






Nissan Skyline GT-R ATTESA System Transfercase - YouTube


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## marknjayne (Jan 8, 2005)

tyndago said:


> He may have told you the ATTESA ECU is in the trunk. The G sensor is in the center console. If he told you its in the trunk, you should find someone else to listen to.
> 
> The G sensor needs to be near the center of the car to work effectively.
> 
> Nissan Skyline GT-R ATTESA System Transfercase - YouTube


perhaps i misheard him or not listening properly...trust me,he knows his stuff,he has been involved in the build of some of the worlds best known and fastest skylines


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## BNR34GTR (Aug 8, 2011)

Anyone know what code 12 means on 34 spec? Definately getting a recorded error 12.


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

BNR34GTR said:


> Anyone know what code 12 means on 34 spec? Definately getting a recorded error 12.


12 is the start code. The start code is only indicated repeatedly when there is no malfunction.

That is from the R34 service manual supplement I. Page BR-21.


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## marknjayne (Jan 8, 2005)

ok....gave all the tps wires and connections a good wiggle and pull etc,then went for a drive,no difference,all lights on the dash (a-lsd and 4wd) and no front torque....got on a road where i could see over 2 miles and there was nothing...not a thing in sight so i went through the gears,into 5th and planted it...wont go into detail lol,pulled up after running the car down to cool it,turned it off and then started the car.no lights and front torque again....driven it for about 60-70 miles and still fine....fingers crossed

when i got home i set the tps to the correct voltage too


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

marknjayne said:


> and then started the car.no lights and front torque again....driven it for about 60-70 miles and still fine....fingers crossed
> 
> when i got home i set the tps to the correct voltage too


Loose wire/bad ground somewhere. They are always fun to troubleshoot. Good luck with it. Been there, done that with a race car at the race track.


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## BNR34GTR (Aug 8, 2011)

Guys my problem is still ongoing the lights come on when heavy braking. I get abs 4wd and alsd light up simultaneously it's code 66 which is gsensor. The deceleration sensor looks fine, can you advise on how to test this for correct resistance and voltage values?

Edited to say im getting 8V and around 2.45V on the other 2..... any comments on these values...?


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## gtr-loz (Feb 10, 2006)

i have the same code on my 33 still to fix looks like its either the G sensor or the ecu either cost a fortune lol! the 8v thing looks good from memory best to test the wiring from the sensor to the ecu to check for breaks other than that its wallet out time!


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## gtr-loz (Feb 10, 2006)

ive just been having alook at this tonight i checked all the wires back to the ecu all are ok except the two earth wires which are the black wires on both plugs using the diagrams on this forum they run straight to earth but if i check the resiatance to earth i get open circuit, does anyone know where theses two wires are earthed so i can check from one end of the wire to the other


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## gtr-loz (Feb 10, 2006)

found that one does now seem to have continuity and the other is for the shielding of the wires to the g-sensor, i have now replaced the g-sensor and control uniot but still get thi light on under cranking so i guess its some voltage drop issue, thats going to be hard to find!


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## Steve (Sep 21, 2001)

WOW, this is a thread and a half re the ALSD + 4WD lights.

I am in the process of determining my issue too, i.e. fault code 75 on the ECU indicating the TPS, but on closer inspection have found that the TPS has nothing or little to do with the fault (have now tried 4 of them). Have also checked the wiring back to the ECU all OK.

My car never had a problem until it went away to TR Racing! When I went to collect it this was happening and they tried a couple of things (bleed the ATTESA and put some new earth wires on the rear axle) and then threw their hands up in the air and said it must be the TPS when they returned my car still faulty. As the car is not going back to them, I am now investigating several other avenues. 

So any help advice or cure would be great.


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

My really odd issue, that I explained here before, was nothing more than a loose connection on the alternator. It showed up as a TPS error, seemed very random, but was introducing some noise into the system. 

I would start going over the car, and touching all the battery positives, along with all the grounds/earths on the car.


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## Steve (Sep 21, 2001)

OK ta will do as they did have the engine out !


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## gtr-loz (Feb 10, 2006)

yeah i can seem to fix mine either lol ive been checking the wires to the g-sensors as i have code 66 side g sensor both of the fore/aft sensor have 1 wire earthed, 1 wire is 8v and the other is 2.35v the lateral sensor (i assume the one i have an issue with ) has 1 wire at 8 v 1 earth wire and the other wire reads 0v i have checked this wire back to the ecu and its good with no shorting to earth or live and no breaks i have as mentioned before swopped the ecu with another and anoth g-sensor so im a bit stuck lol should this wire have 8v down to it? its the orange and blue stripped wire, on the larger plug if someone could check this it would be great the plugs have to be connected to get it right, many thanks


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## Hulk Hogan (Apr 1, 2015)

Bump from the dead! 
My 4WD warning light lit up on my R33 GT-R (non V-Spec) for the first time this morning. 

The funny thing is, when I first started the car, the ATTESA pump didn't make the same noise it usually does. I usually get the "WHIRRRRR" at key on, and don't notice it after that.

Today, I didn't get that noise, but after starting the engine it was making a quieter, more buzzy sound. I ignored this, and went on my way. 

After about 5 miles, the 4WD light came on. I pulled over, switched off, restarted and the light went out. It then lit up again after about a minute, and I heard the ATTESA pump switch off. 
I get 5 long flashes, 3 short flashes from the control module... Code 53? Similar to earlier in this thread. 

Standard 17" wheels, 4 matching tyres. Pressures were adjusted to 36psi all round about 10 days ago. Previously they were all mismatched pressures. 

Oh and one last nugget of information... I can't say if it's always been like this, or because of the problem, but the fluid level in the reservoir is now sky high. Like, way above the maximum. Nearly filled the whole reservoir. 
I tried a battery disconnect too, it just stayed off for 5 miles again like this morning.


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