# My R32 GTR Single Turbo Project



## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

Hi..

just want to share some pictures of my single turbo project.. Got the car stock whith some small mods..

80mm free flow exhaust
Tein Suspension
Full welded LDS
Stock Boost 0.8bar
HKS OIL Cooler and Filter relocation kit
Oil Pressure Cold 5bar warm ilde 3bar. full throttle around 4bar stock R32 Oil pressure gauge

Startet whith some easy mods 
bought an Apex Induction kit. 
some HKS Spark plugs 
3" to 3,5" frontpipes
HKS timing belt and new idler wheel and tensioner pully. just in case dident know when the belt was changed when i got the car.
Apexi PFC got a map from a freind whith a R33 GTR whith stage 1 mods same as me..
and i removed the cat and the silencer under the car, so the only silencer was the last one.

Had then had some problems whith managing the boost on the car, and wasent able to figure out what the problem was, but endet whith that i took the stock boost solonoid of, and blocked the pipes. and made some new hoses from the acturators directly to an mecanical boost controle, and straight to the boost pipe from the turbo's. that mod made it possible for me to controle the boost again. Set the boost to 1.0bar and it ran very well, but after 2 weeks the front turbo lost the turbine wheel ): 

So that was the start of my single turbo project, had a freind remove the Twin Turbo setup, he had some problems removing the turbo'es and that was also one of the reasons for a single turbo setup. it was alot easy'er to buid up again, one manifold and one turbo  

Ebay style single turbo manifold T4 dual inlet flange
Special made adapter from my brother that made T4 to T3
HKS 50mm Racing wastegate
K27 Hybrid turbo. around 490hk max output

Nismo Gmax Twin plate clutch
Nismo Slave cylender
Nismo Short shift
Nismo gearnob
Nismo Gearbox mount
HKS twin SSQV blow off valves.
New rebuild R33 Gearbox

Brakes

Project MU Dishes
Project MU Brake pads


Some Pictures from when i got the car. the wheels was som i borrowed, i only have stock 16" GTR wheels 










Engine Bay stock and before.










New Induction Kit and Hks cam belt and a Greddy 










FC and Frontpipe










A pic of the car on a Danish car show Fast and the furious car show fredericia










Here came some new parts Clutch gearbox and so on.










shortly after i got the car running again whith the new gearbox and clutch, this happend ):










Now for the Single turbo conversion parts










and now whith the turbo in place test setup

http://images.bilgalleri.dk/uploads_alb_large_wm/559081_l.jpg

Got the car in my brothers garage were i could build the car 










Frontpipe build

http://images.bilgalleri.dk/uploads_alb_large_wm/573552_l.jpg

Yep i now it isent the best quality, but it is the first time i had a Co2 welder in my hand..










Test Setup whith frontpipe wastegate and turbo  now were are getting some were 



























Now the car is about done.. there is still alot of lose ends and a lot of finish work to be done. but the car runs and it sounds sweet 



















still need to get the wiring in order from the o2 sensores. i splices both sensor wires to one sensor, and it works fine.. the return water and controle vaccum and the other vaccum line for the actuatores. were only blocket of whith a hose and a bolt in the end. havent had the time to unmount the pipes under the plennum and on the back of the engine.

just a littel incar pic 










Now the car is running and running very well.. the screamer pipe screams around 1.0bar it spikes to around 1.2bar max.. havent had the car map yet after the conversion, and maby that was the reason why the car now isent running it was running in around 3 weeks, and it was running very nice and puuls very hard, but year had a break down one night, it started to knock very bad ): and when i opend the hood there was oil in the bay, from my breather pipe ): Havent had the engine taken out yet it sounds like it's a bearing thats gone. have had some low oil pressure though around 3,9bar on cold startup and 3bar warm idle.. maby that was a warning that i dient listen to ? so now the car is standing still until i get a new bottum ore complete engine.

hope you understand my now so god english. hope it's okay this is my first car project and single conversion.. New plans for the car is a fresh bottum and a new GT35 Turbo and some bigger injectores and Nismo AFM's and a propper remap 

Thanks for watching 

Anders 

Denmark


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## WillRobDon (Jul 29, 2006)

A proper map is a must! But i suppose you've learnt the hard way. 

Looks like an intresting build, are you keeping the single once the bottom end is rebuilt?


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## Nocturnal (Nov 5, 2004)

The turbo some how look a bit small for me... 
I think a GT35r will fit very nicely in there.

And yes, a remap is a must. But with a GT35R, you should be able to boost 1.8bar easily.


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

Yeah learn the hard way.. but thought i would be okay but i was wrong, just thought the turbo was maby same size as stock twin's dont knink it was making over 380hk.. 

Yes i will keep the single setup love the way the car goes, and have talked to some tuners here in Denmark, and they all love the Garrett GT35 AR 1.06 Turbo, they say it's a real fine and wery well responding turbo, no regards the pressure works well on all engins..

I'am bidding on a R32 Block whith only 78,000km and new oil and water pumps and so on, that i was planning to buy. and put a metal headgasket in it. dont know what pressure it can take..

BTW the k27 was making around 480hk on a 3.5l bmw E30 before i got it


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## 33 vspec (Mar 2, 2007)

Jakobsen said:


> I'am bidding on a R32 Block whith only 78,000km and new oil and water pumps and so on, that i was planning to buy. and put a metal headgasket in it. dont know what pressure it can take..


would you not get a forged engine.that sounds like a standard 32 block.its realistically not going to be able to take that power for a sustained period of time.better off doing it right, you will save yourself money in the long run.


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

Yeah it's a 91 stock R32 engine. yeah i know that it would be the best to get a forged engine but havent got the money )-: dont know what power i'am going to be running, but i know there will be no drag racing. only some small street drift  thinking of maby 400/500max power.. was counting on setting the car for sale when i get it running again. havent got the money for repairs and upgrades all the time, need to get a cheaper car now, maby a 200sx ore 180sx...


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## moffett (Nov 12, 2007)

Hi matey, without putting a downer on things, I really dont think the stock engine will last and I know if I was going to buy a r32 gtr with a single turbo the first thing I would ask is what internals has it got...


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

Mmm maby dont know. i dont see that there would be eny difference in mounting a single turbo, then a set of HKS 2530 turbo'es and boosting them op to 1,1 - 1.2bar?? have a freind who is running a stock r33 Vspec, whith a set of 2530 and nismo afm's and bigger injectores he is running 1,55bar on his engine, and around 450/480bhp and have been running for 10.000km the most in drag and street racing..


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## felixy69 (Jan 4, 2006)

how come the turbo look so smal...lol


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## cyberspyder (Mar 28, 2007)

Those are not stock wheels....keep them, worth quite a bit...LMGT1's or GT2?


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

No the wheels are not stock on photo and yes Nismo LM GT dont know if it 1 ore 2..

How the car looks right now 










Yep the turbo looks small but it works very well on the engine. full boost at around 38/4000rpm 1.2bar.. and all the way to rev limit. Again the turbo wasent bought for a 500/600hp engine.. only a cheap turbo i had on the hand, and it fittet very vel


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## tomek (Apr 4, 2008)

Im rebuilding mine atm.. 

Going 3540 with the 1.06 housing, mechanic really rates the turbine.. 

Been a few months in the works now.. 

Just today he showed me one his workers cars.. 

RB25, built bottom end... standard head.. 450rwhp @ 20-21psi... positive boost 2500-3000rpm, full boost by 4800rpm.. Didn't get a chance to see the printout in RPM log, but only KM log.. 

So im thinking If I can get 520-550hp out of my 26 on 25psi Il be a happy man. 

Info and results here in oz on 3540's are pretty scarse, Any links you can send me from Denmark mate? Or some of your findings?


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

Hi tomek.
what links ore findings were you looking for ? dident understand realy ):


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## MacGTR (Dec 31, 2006)

Looks like a sleeper. Keep it that way and surprise some people:chuckle:


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

Yeah it's a nice sleeper hehe no big rims ore carbon f&f parts hehe. only the loud exhaust and the HKS Wastegate when it reached 1.0bar (-; But some new rims would realy help, and considering lowering the car more in the front.

have a small problem whith the subframe though, ore i think it's maby the frame ore suspension. The Left wheel is further out then the left wheel ? dont know why ? the right wheel is perfect, in the rear fender. the Left wheel is going out. Can try to take a pic


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## tomek (Apr 4, 2008)

Jakobsen said:


> Hi tomek.
> what links ore findings were you looking for ? dident understand realy ):


Well you said the 3540 (with 1.06) is well known in Denmark for its capabilities with tuners, Just wondering if there is any interesting dyno result threads with this turbo floating around.. As here in Australia you don't hear too much about this turbo.


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

Hi

Now i understand... now there isent realy eny dyno of this turbo on a skyline ): I'am the only one in Denmark who is doing a single turbo conversion on a skyline. There is some other guys here though whith single GTR. but all bought in Japan and running T04z T78 KAI 51.. all very hi power machines. But know from a tuner that the GT35 AR 1.06. worked very well on a Supra Mk 3 3.0L He was very happy whith the results..


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

Updates...

Got a new engine to the car.. R33 Just rebuild whith polished crank - Heat coatod stock pistons new rings and Nismo Bearings. all the parts were dynamic balanced so the engine should be able to do some revs and take the power. Oil Pump was N1 used though only for 1000km before i got it. 

The engine started the first time after i got oil pressure on and 6bar cold start. and 2,5-3bar warm. on stock gauge yes know i cant trust it though.

Was running the engine in and after 110km i changed the engine oil. but when i was preppring for start up again, i disconnected the coils to get pressure first. but the engine wouldent make eny pressure after oil change. so i put some oil directly in the oil filter location kit. this made the engine get some pressure prettet quick. Drove the car some km's afterwords and it felt good, was still running the engine in so no high revs 4500rpm max. The next day i started the car it knocked 3-4 times when i started the engine, the oil pressure wasent comming when i started the engine. but when the pressure came the knocking got away. have driven around about 400km max. when the engine start knocking at 3500rpm's and up and oil pressure is low now. about 4bar on cold start up, and i found some goldy stuff in the relocation plate ): Dont know what caused the engine to fair. if it was the faulty Oil pump ore a leak in the essembely whith the oil system. 

Status is now engine still in car, the guy i bought the engine from will change the bearings and pay for that, i only have to pay for a new Oil pump so that's a good deal, havent got the money yet. so wont take the engine out before i have the money, to get on whith the project


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## freakazoid3 (Jan 19, 2008)

Sounds like you've got some bad luck 
Just keep it up and she'll be ok in the end :thumbsup:


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

Hope to get some money soon, so i can get the bearings changed and hope the crank hasent tagen eny damage (; have to change my oil cooler to, dont know if there would be eny parts in the cooler..


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## iceager (Dec 23, 2004)

Aye Kennet is a really good guy and he helps when ever he can and don't ask for nothing in return, but remember to not take advantage of that 

But how much oil did you put in the engine ?


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

yep kennet is a great help  And he will also be the one to change the bearings and assembely the engine. it's not that i cant do it my self, just dont want to make a mistake on the engine now. dont have money for a new if this engine is fooked again:bawling: 

Think i put around 5 liters on the engine. over the top of the oil stick so think that was okay.


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## iceager (Dec 23, 2004)

There you have your problem mate, 5liter = normal engine, but you have an oilcooler and pipes, then you have about 1-1½ liters too low oil in your engine and thats bad.


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

isent 4,5L the normal volume for an GTR ? Dont think that the problem, would be that there wasent enough oil in the sump, dosent the oil only go to the relocation plate and back in the engine again. Dont think the oil is going out to the cooler before the thermostat has opend. if i were to fill 5-7liters on the engine wouldent the max level on the dip stick be topped alot ? ore overfilled ? 

Have always been told that the oil should be to the max line on the dip stick ?


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## iceager (Dec 23, 2004)

Well if it has a thermostat, no, but then it is filled with old oil that will contaminate the new one, but when you change oil with an oilcooler kit installed you need to crank the engine a few times then recheck the oil level as it needs to fill up the oil cooler again, so it will lower the level.
Don't think HKS oilcooler kit has a thermostat, only one i have seen is the Grex kit or Mocal.

The best way is to undo the hoses to the oilcooler and fill it up with oil and install them again, then you lower the risk of refilling to little oil if you forget to crank the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to drain down to the sump, the oil in the cooler will stay.


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## Taiquri (Jan 15, 2007)

iceager said:


> Well if it has a thermostat, no, but then it is filled with old oil that will contaminate the new one, but when you change oil with an oilcooler kit installed you need to crank the engine a few times then recheck the oil level as it needs to fill up the oil cooler again, so it will lower the level.
> Don't think HKS oilcooler kit has a thermostat, only one i have seen is the Grex kit or Mocal.
> 
> The best way is to undo the hoses to the oilcooler and fill it up with oil and install them again, then you lower the risk of refilling to little oil if you forget to crank the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to drain down to the sump, the oil in the cooler will stay.


I have hks oilcooret kit and it has 72c thermostat. Also hoses going down so it does not bleed oil back..


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

I have cranked the engine in maby 5 min before start and checked the oil level a lot of times before i startet the engine. 1 time at very first start. and again when i changed the oil after 100km.


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## brewpubeaver (Mar 12, 2009)

very cool car.

what part of Denmark do you live in? i know there is a R33 in Aaborg that i saw a few times when i was there last time. 

my wife is from there, and we go there pretty often. I want to do a GT53r on my car. any new updates?


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

Hi thanks.. know it isent a fancy looking R32  i live about 50km from Aalborg. so it's close. havent got eny updates on the project ): 

Did you wanna go whith a GT 53R thats a huge huge turbo ?? link ??


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## brewpubeaver (Mar 12, 2009)

oh, woops, no 35r. 


yea man, next time i am in Aalborg i will drop you a line, would deff like to see your car.


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

yeah alright think the GT35R Would be a great turbo on the RB26 ore even the big GT3076R would be a good choice


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## brewpubeaver (Mar 12, 2009)

i have had both the gt30r and the 35r on my last project and i liked the 35r more. and that was on a Suby. nothing like 500whp+ on pump. with only 4 cylenders, lol. 



but now with the new Tial housings and better heat treatments out there, i think i can get the 35r to spool very fast.


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## tomek (Apr 4, 2008)

brewpubeaver said:


> i have had both the gt30r and the 35r on my last project and i liked the 35r more. and that was on a Suby. nothing like 500whp+ on pump. with only 4 cylenders, lol.
> 
> 
> 
> but now with the new Tial housings and better heat treatments out there, i think i can get the 35r to spool very fast.


Please share your ideas opcorn:


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

Sorry havent got the GT35R turbo on mine yet. will still try to see hvad my KKK27 Hybrid turbo will make  Havent got the money for my project now so this may be the last to do on the car


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## brewpubeaver (Mar 12, 2009)

tomek said:


> Please share your ideas opcorn:


i do not want to stray off topic of Jakobsen`s build thread. 


side note, the wife says she has seen you around Aalborg. not sure when i will be back there next. but deff would like to check out the build in person someday. 

i totally understand about the cash flow and cars. i have lots of plans, and i am very specifif in what i want. and i wont compromise. so i have become very patient.


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

thats okay Brewpubeaver  Nice 2 know the car get's some attention.. hmm maby it's bacaurse it's a loud beautiful sounding machine.. The best engine sound ever  Will post some movies later, when i get the bearings changed


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## brewpubeaver (Mar 12, 2009)

this is what i have been thinking of doing. 

gt35r with the .82 hot side with the anti surge 4"inlet 
Garrett GT3582R (aka GT35R, aka GT35/40R): atpturbo.com

and then doing a Tial housing on the hot side. i have seen some numbers on these in the Suby world, and they are seeing 500-600rpm spool sooner.

* Aprox. 33% turbo weight reduction 
* Cast stainless steel provides a beautiful smooth finish inside and out 
* Full V-Band utilization eliminates the need for bolts and gaskets 
* V-Band inlet design allows for pivoting of the turbo to aid clearance issues and tight fits 
* 3 A/R options for EACH turbo 
* Overall turbine housing size is smaller while maintaining greater strength

then i would have a custom manifold and down pipe made to replicate the Fullrace version. 2300 is just to much to spend on the real stuff.

Full-Race Motorsports

then the manifold and down pipe would be turbo ceramic coated by Finishline coatings they do some of the best work in the business

Finish Line Coatings - Ceramic Thermal Barrier Coatings Exhaust Systems Performance Parts Portland





i am a big fan of making things very simple, and the less parts the better. i just wish there was more information out there for the RB26 as far as dyno sheets with different turbos. i have seen Tydango`s, and it is great, but still not enough information. 

here is my STI with a gt35r .82 hot side 4cyl 2.5L 800cc injectors and C16 on a safe map of about 28psi.

My STI :: dave-o-c16.jpg picture by brewpubeaver - Photobucket

now if i put this same turbo on a bigger motor, with 2 more cylinders, and only have about 8inches of manifold from the exhaust chamber to turbo, instead of the 3 1/2 feet on the STI, i think it should spool pretty damn fast.


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## brewpubeaver (Mar 12, 2009)

So i will be back in Aalborg next week. 

Would love to check out your car man.


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

Havent got it running yet  have had some other projects that needed attention  and have been moving to Copenhagen in the mean while, but i still work on the car in jutland, dont have a garage in copenhagen they are very expencive :sadwavey:


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

Time for some small updates on my now old R32 Project..

Now it's time to get the car running again, have saved some money for the engine build and have bought some parts

Made a good deal whith DaveW (The GTR Shop)

ACL STD Size bearings
Genuine N1 Oil pump

so i'am stille missing a crank, but have got a price on an R34GTR Crank. But nothing is safe ore i'am stille considering buying an used R34 GTR Engine if the price is right, it's always good to have some spare parts..

But enyways dont quite know if i will use the N1 pump though, have thought about buying the Reimax gears for the pump. Did also consider building the sump bigger but maby not deeper, and fitting an Tomei Baffle plate kit, and finaly maby fitting an extra oil return from the head to the sump. Still alot of planes and thoughts in my mind 

But havent had the engine alle disassembeld yet had only got the crank and bearings out, havent inspected the pistons ore the cams for wear when the oil was filled whith bearing parts copper maby goldish :S So it might still be expensive and maby cheaper buying an used engine..


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

almost forgot the car also has some rust that needed to get that done, but it's only a rust on the rear arch size like an coin hope it wouldent be that hard getting it repaired. 

The car has been stored outside here in denmark in 2 years now, but even though it has been standing outside it still looks amazing  

i do also need to sandblast the inner fenders in the rear for fly rust, in sommer 2 much fun playing in RWD on a sandy parking place, was the result of blasted rear fenders :S

but hope the sandblating and some new sealer and some paint would do the job 

There is also some stone chips around the body :S that needed to get a repair and repaint also the front bumper will get a repaint 

Some pics of the car  What it look likes now


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## R4VENS (Jan 1, 2009)

nice fartcannon haha


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## *Shane* (Jul 21, 2009)

your gone for a stealth look with the fmic


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

It's still the Stock fmic  just gave it a fresh paint


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

Finaly i have som news on my project 

Have bought some new parts for the engine, and the engine is now out and stripped to see if eny other damage was caused when the bearings gave up. Cant find other problems whith the engine after i stripped it, piston looks fine bores also and the piston rings looks like they are propper bed in, the parts have only ran 500km now.

New parts i bought for the engine 

ACL Race Bearings
ACL Race Rod Bearings
R33-R34 Crank ( Brand spanking new )
Tomei Over size Oil pump
Nissan N1 Oil pump 
Reimax Oil Pump gear set
Truust Greddy Sump Extension

i'am not goint to use the N1 Pump housing and the Reimax gears, bought them along time ago, and since i ran over an good bye of the Tomei Oil pump so thats the one i wil stick to now. 

The things i need to do now is clean the block propperly so it would be ready for the bearings and the crank and then put the pistons back in the engine, and assemble the engine again so it can be fittet in the car 

Though i still need to make the Oil suction pipe ( Oil pickup ) a bit longer dident get the right one when i got the Greddy Sump so i only have the original one. I think the only thing is that i need to make i a bit longer so it sucks in the bottum of the sump


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

Some pictures of the project

Thanks to RHDJAPAN and the GTRSHOP for help whith parts





























































































































































I dont know why the black stuff is in the cylenders at the same spot on all 6 bores ? there are no marks in the bores all clean and looking fine


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

Got some more pictures of some of the other parts for the rebuild  i'am hoping that i can put the engine together tomorrow maby, havent checked if i can reuse the head bolts for the engine, ore i have to buy ARP bolts..
















































Reimax Pump gear mounted on the crank clerance 0.30 the Stocl N1 gear have the same clearence










Tomei Gear mounted clearence 0.10 

All the pump gears lined op from left to right

Tomei - N1 - Reimax


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## DrGtr (Jul 18, 2009)

interesting thread, it seams like an overhead, or could be luck of oil?


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

Dont know why the bores have the black spot ? 

the engine was just rebuild whith new rings and heat coated pistons and bearings, and then it spun a bearing after 500km  dont know if the spots are lack of oil ? but hope that it's no bigge and i can put the pistons back ind and assemble the engine again  

i would have bought forgies but think i will wait, if i want more power i would maby build an RB30 engine instead


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

Some more updates on the build got the bottum stripped and cleaned, and ready for new bearings, i put the ACL Bearings in and places the crank and fittet the collar ore bridge that holds the other parts of the bearing and started putting the bolts in place, when i found out i was missing 2 of the 14 bolts :S it's over a year ago i stripped the old crank from the engine and the parts was in a box, for a long time  I'am also missing the 2 half moons that sids in the front of the crank to steer the crank damper in 

Luckly my good freind Kennet had some parts that i could get hold of, so i went to him and got some new bolts and oil for engine gearbox and the front diff  now i can assemble the rest of the engine tomorrow and run some oil pressure on the engine before i put the head on the engine. i also borrowed an empty clutch housing that i would fit on the block, and put the starter on and turn the engine until there is pressure in the engine


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

More pictures of the engine rebuild










































































































The engine ready to go in the car, my dad helped whith getting the engine in 










When i get the engine running i will get to work on this :S It's not the worst rust it has, but subframe will have to get down and i will have an better look af the rust


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## .::TopSky::. (Nov 4, 2010)

Damn I love this! Nice to see more single conversions!

Seems like its no Gatebil for you?

Good Luck, mate!


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

I just love the amazing sound the RB26 has when it's single converted  Raw pure power.. I will upgrade the turbo to a bigger one when i get the money for the rest off the stuff to support the power 

The car is going to be street legal  Ore maby not legal but an street car  It's not that fun to have a track car, that you only use 2-3 times in one mounth ore 2.. 

Thanks


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

So i have got the car working now and running  

Did also get som new injectores 680cc so now i can get som more power out of the parts. 

People have also commented on my Small KKK27 Turbo, so now an new one is bought here is the new one


















































Borg Warner S360 Turbo


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

New Pictures of the new turbo setup

Old turbo VS New 

















































This is an temp setup whith AFM and piping, i want an new ECU and map sensor


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## davidr32gtr (Aug 13, 2011)

Nice work man! It seems like your new turbo is a little bit bigger


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

Thanks  It's big enough so the turbo outlet to IC hits the bonnet :S i need to put some spacer rings under bonnet so it can be raised a littel.. It runs okay just need to map it next time i get to work on the car  it runs 10AFR and safe timing now, mere performence will come, hope to press the stock AFM to 450-500HP..


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## DrGtr (Jul 18, 2009)

Jakobsen said:


> Thanks  It's big enough so the turbo outlet to IC hits the bonnet :S i need to put some spacer rings under bonnet so it can be raised a littel.. It runs okay just need to map it next time i get to work on the car  it runs 10AFR and safe timing now, mere performence will come, hope to press the stock AFM to 450-500HP..


what hp can you get from this one?


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

i havent had the car on dyno yet, ore yes i did but only whith the old turbo, i dont have licence plates on the car yet, so we used the dyno to drive on to get som miles on the engine, and do some mapping. So the map is basicly the one i have been using the whole time. We dident get eny power puls before the the KKK27 turbo broke. 

i dont know what the power would be around now, it dosent feel like amazing power right now, have been running on the roads this week whith the new turbo, and did some testing whith 0.8bar and 1.0bar boost.


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## adamsaiyad (Aug 23, 2006)

I see you using the sard Racing oil filter Mag +


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## Fuel Performance (Aug 31, 2010)

Nice Build! Enjoy! Still Love the Single Route..


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

Thanks.. Not the prettiest on here i know, but it's not finished yet though.

have done some small updates on the car

Bought an Haltech E11V2 ECU that i haven't had time yet to have mapped, whith my new GT4088 Turbo, but hoping for 500-550HP on the setup. so i can't really comment the single route quite yet, but i do love the sound of an single turbo no doubt 

i also need to get some parts painted on the car, front and rear bumper and some stone clips :S

Here is some newer photos of the car


Borg Warner S360 VS Garrett GT 4088

































































just an quick movie whith the sound it makes 
http://youtu.be/KdR3QuHZYpo?hd=1


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

Hehe thanks  Not a map show queen.. But very fun 2 drive  

Getting the car mapped in 2weeks, and hoping for 500HP if the Haltech E11V2 does the job


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## Fuel Performance (Aug 31, 2010)

How's the Car ?


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## FRRACER (Jun 23, 2013)

Build looks similar to the route I am taking. Which oil pump did you use in the end? The clearance on the oe n1 and reimax looks scary!




Jakobsen said:


> Got some more pictures of some of the other parts for the rebuild  i'am hoping that i can put the engine together tomorrow maby, havent checked if i can reuse the head bolts for the engine, ore i have to buy ARP bolts..
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

Hi 

i sold the car about 1year ago 

But i used the Tomei pump 

I know the guy who has the car now, and it's now running an Garrett GT4088R and 500hp engine power. still running Apexi Power FC Dual MAF's


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## FRRACER (Jun 23, 2013)

The clearance issue has got me somewhat confused.. there was a big thread on GTR Canada forum about this. Nothing was ever conclusive if the clearance was an oversight or done on purpose...


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## Jakobsen (Dec 19, 2007)

yeah i know i have also been very confused, after i messured my own parts, but i know alot that use the N1 pump. i dont know eny one using the Reimax gears though, sold my gears to an old freind, but dont talk to him eny more, so dont realy know were the pump gears are now.

i dont know either if the clearense is better if an Oil collar is fitted to the crank ?


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## Nismo_R (Mar 14, 2014)

Car looks great mate


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## FRRACER (Jun 23, 2013)

I will talk to my engine builder and see what he says about the clearance I have if the clearance is too much will get a collar to bring it down a little but not a tight fit or a press fit as there needs to be some slack.


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