# R32 GTR sump removal...EASY or DIFFICULT?



## gillsl500 (Jun 20, 2005)

Hey guys I may need to remove my oil sump from my R32 GTR and was wondering if it's a difficult job? 

Would i need any specialist tools?

Cheers fellas


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## ANDY H (Mar 17, 2005)

engine out job!!!


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## Jags (May 20, 2007)

Easiest way is to take the engine out dude....


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## damodeane (Dec 23, 2010)

engine out would be easier .you have to take off the flywheel to get at the 2 back bolts also


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## GT-R Glenn (Nov 9, 2002)

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/135979-r32-gtr-removing-sump-without-lifting-engine-out-help.html


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## gillsl500 (Jun 20, 2005)

Oh my life...ENGINE OUT!!!!! Ive just pooed my self.

Thanks for your help though


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## Takamo (Oct 18, 2005)

Had to change mine a few weeks back when I done the one bloody launch and broke the teeth in the front diff which then poped a hole in the casing and it was not a nice job but it possible ofcourse, it can be done whilst engine is still in the car but yourl need a ramp and engine brace, you basically need to drop the gearbox off and undo all the bits underneath and also remove driveshafts and undo engine mounts and then raise up the engine up using the engine brace then remove the cradle and then you can get to it fairly easy, it's still a big job but if you know what your doing In general then it's not rocket science. My mechanic in Birmingham did it in approx 7hrs which I thought was good going, if you need someone to do it give me a shout and I'll see if I can have a word to help 07973733441


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## Clive S-P (Aug 8, 2008)

Why do you think you need to remove the sump?


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## gillsl500 (Jun 20, 2005)

Takamo said:


> Had to change mine a few weeks back when I done the one bloody launch and broke the teeth in the front diff which then poped a hole in the casing and it was not a nice job but it possible ofcourse, it can be done whilst engine is still in the car but yourl need a ramp and engine brace, you basically need to drop the gearbox off and undo all the bits underneath and also remove driveshafts and undo engine mounts and then raise up the engine up using the engine brace then remove the cradle and then you can get to it fairly easy, it's still a big job but if you know what your doing In general then it's not rocket science. My mechanic in Birmingham did it in approx 7hrs which I thought was good going, if you need someone to do it give me a shout and I'll see if I can have a word to help 07973733441


Much appreciated mate i'l bare that in mind!! The thread for the oil drain bolt has gone so need to tap/drill a new one :-/

Cheers mate


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## mambastu (Feb 13, 2002)

gillsl500 said:


> Much appreciated mate i'l bare that in mind!! The thread for the oil drain bolt has gone so need to tap/drill a new one :-/
> 
> Cheers mate


You don't need to take the sump out to do that. Drain the oil and get it helicoiled in place.

Cheers

Stu


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## Takamo (Oct 18, 2005)

Yup that will do the trick or I suppose you could use a bit of chewing gum lol


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## gillsl500 (Jun 20, 2005)

mambastu said:


> You don't need to take the sump out to do that. Drain the oil and get it helicoiled in place.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Stu


But is the helicoil guaranteed to make sure that no metal falls into the sump? Don't think I have the balls to risk it? Better safe than sorry :-/....just booked her in, it's gonna cost quite abit but no where near as much as it would should the engine go!! Cheers


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## markM3 (Jan 7, 2008)

Want to put a tomei sump pan in mine next year (sooo should have done it when the engine was being rebuilt.....), so let us know how it goes and whether you take the engine out or not.


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## Clive S-P (Aug 8, 2008)

I've just had the exact same problem, but it's easy to fix. And cheap!

You will need a 1/2" unf tap
1/2" unf nut and bolt (shortest you can buy approx 1 1/4")
Copper crush washer to fit bolt
some grease
brake cleaner
4litres of cheap oil.

The standard sump plug is an M12, if you stay metric the next size up is M14, which is a huge difference. If you go imperial the next size up is 1/2" unf (12.7mm) not such a big difference.

Beg borrow or steal a tap from somewhere. Screw the nut onto the tap so the thread is just protruding through the nut.

Clean the sump hole as well as you can, using kitchen roll and brake cleaner.

Smear grease over the end of the tap, this will collect the swarf when you tap into the sump, rather than leave it inside!

Use the nut to ensure the tap is square on to the sump and gently turn the tap through the nut and into the sump.
Take your time, you can remove the tap once you are part way in and clean off any swarf, but make sure you are properly lined up before going in again.

Remove tap and clean sump, use plenty of brake cleaner.

Fit your new sump plug. Don't worry about it being longer than the original, it won't foul on anything.

Pour in your cheap oil.

Drain and refill with some good stuff.

Job done!

Cost... less than £30, time taken, less than 1 hour from start to finish.

Cancel your booking and PM me if you want any help... I even have a spare bolt! :thumbsup:


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## mambastu (Feb 13, 2002)

Clive S-P said:


> I've just had the exact same problem, but it's easy to fix. And cheap!
> 
> You will need a 1/2" unf tap
> 1/2" unf nut and bolt (shortest you can buy approx 1 1/4")
> ...


Even cheaper way than helicoiling. :thumbsup:

You'd have to be nuts to pay the labour to remove the engine or remove the sump/subframe in place to fix a stripped thread on a sump.


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## R.I.P.S NZ (May 7, 2004)

Clive S-P said:


> The standard sump plug is an M12, if you stay metric the next size up is M14, which is a huge difference. If you go imperial the next size up is 1/2" unf (12.7mm) not such a big difference.


In alot of cases that won't work because if the M12 is properly stripped you'll be left with a hole that is basicly 12mm and that is too big to "correctly" tap a 1/2 unf thread.

Its a patch up repair (which I would also do in that situation, or go to M14) but you wouldn't want to swing on the new bolt too much.

Good luck,

Rob


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## erol20 (Jul 2, 2008)

Did you take the sump out in the end?


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## R33JONO (Aug 17, 2011)

Personally, if it happened to me I would tap it out to 1/4 bsp.
The correct drill size is 11.8 mm 12mm will work fine. you can also easily get taps blanking plugs and washers in the correct size.


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## Bardabe (Feb 11, 2012)

^^^^^ what he said, or threadsert the sump


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## Satansbodyguard (Oct 29, 2007)

hi

i'm sure bob won't mind me adding this link

Mr Bobster Fourtoes taking a sump out of an R32GTR

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/164933-markm3s-sleeper-r32-gtr-project-2.html

Nigel:thumbsup:


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