# rb30 blocks which one ?



## ela-re69 (May 3, 2012)

rb30 blocks 

any one have proof info besided nizpro claiming that early rb30 blocks - dont run oil/water are stronger ?

i have all 3
early block
vl oil/water lines A6 - has hair line crack on deck dwell #5 stud hole next to water galliery 
skyline 89- 

all weight the same- bores mm apart same
cant see how possible stronger
also notice early rb30 block has 2 tapped holes on girdle plate in the middle where they crack in hp - 
any vailed input welcome 

cheers


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## D-Ranged (Aug 16, 2007)

RIPS will be the best ones to answer that question.


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## R.I.P.S NZ (May 7, 2004)

Only thing to my knowledge is the very early blocks don't have the oil feed for the turbo and they don't have the machined cast area on the front of the block where you bolt the idler when using a twin cam head. I "think" but arn't 100% sure that same style of block does not have the large threaded plug 1/2 way along the bottom of the exhaust side of the block for the turbo oil return.

All I look for is the turbo oil feed when selecting motors to buy, I strip and inspect about 10-15 at a time, bin some, use some for stock internal motors and some for forged motors.

Even at 1500hp and 10,000rpm any block (and cradle) with the turbo oil feed will do if its built and tuned right so just pick a clean block and go for it,

Rob


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## drewzer (Jun 22, 2009)

Do you have any pics of the Turbo oil feed rob?

Cheers
Drew


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## R.I.P.S NZ (May 7, 2004)

This shows the exhaust side of the block with the turbo oil feed and return ports.


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## jdmchrist (Apr 27, 2009)

hey rob , does the oil feed port and water feed port are the same on the rb26? . (can i use all the fittings and lines of and rb26 oem twin turbo setup on a rb30 twin turbo setup?)


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## R.I.P.S NZ (May 7, 2004)

jdmchrist said:


> hey rob , does the oil feed port and water feed port are the same on the rb26? . (can i use all the fittings and lines of and rb26 oem twin turbo setup on a rb30 twin turbo setup?)


yes, you need to give them a tweek here and there and a bit of a flex, but they will go, in effect all your doing is lifting the turbo's 35mm.


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## jdmchrist (Apr 27, 2009)

ok, i already have a set of braided line for my turbo so i'm gonna be ok. Send me my tracking number when you gonna have the time. Thanks!!


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## R.I.P.S NZ (May 7, 2004)

Done.


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## Bolle (Feb 8, 2005)

Hi Rob.
Can you tell me what the thread size is for the return hole?


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## ela-re69 (May 3, 2012)

i going to use block out of skyline that i picked up only done 150,000km

is running dry sleeves and main caps good idea for 1000hp ?

early blocks i seen nizpro use on there twincam heads, they use ilder + tensioner above water pump. they still drill out the block for the lines. they recon the blocks has bigger side bores and webbings. i have block here and happy to send out for testing.

also can someone explain the numbers block on the pic, - 7809B right hand side of the oil drain
is that the numbers tha ment to match on the girdle plate ?


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## R.I.P.S NZ (May 7, 2004)

ela-re69 said:


> is running dry sleeves and main caps good idea for 1000hp ?


I have run 6s, 1500hp and 10,000rpm with stock bores, stock size head bolts, a stock cradle and stock used mains bolts.

1000hp is effortless without getting carried away.

Rob


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## ela-re69 (May 3, 2012)

wow thats big power very nice  

is there some stamp numbers on the block to see if the girlde hasnt been swap around ?


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## R.I.P.S NZ (May 7, 2004)

ela-re69 said:


> is there some stamp numbers on the block to see if the girlde hasnt been swap around ?


As far as I am aware the girdles do not have a number on them from the factory, we number each girdle to each block when we strip virgin motors.

The correct girdle must stay with the correct block so if you have mixed up ones it can be a real pain in the ass to work out which one came from which block but it is do-able from machining and witness marks usually.

If you have found a factory number on a RB30 girdle that matches its block let me know,

Rob


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## ela-re69 (May 3, 2012)

my rb30 skyline block has these numbers next to oil drain - 7318f and girdle has this number 18f .


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## ela-re69 (May 3, 2012)

is it bad idea to run 12mm head studs ?
if u run the 11mm rb25 arp studs do u need inserts ?

thanks gerry


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## R.I.P.S NZ (May 7, 2004)

I use 11mm all the time and just normal head dowels, never an issue.


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## ela-re69 (May 3, 2012)

no problems, 

i also seen 3 different ways of running the timming pulleys on 3l block, 2 above water pump, and 2 factory side by side like the rb26 and 1 above water pump and where machined flat stud hole is, does make difference at all ?


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## ela-re69 (May 3, 2012)

picked up early series 1 block wit oil/water feeds


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## ela-re69 (May 3, 2012)

series 1


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## ela-re69 (May 3, 2012)

series 1 oil/water feeds


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## ela-re69 (May 3, 2012)

RD2.8 diesel block


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## SklyaFett (Oct 18, 2005)

Were did you get the block from?


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## ela-re69 (May 3, 2012)

local wreckers in australia, series 1 rb30 nizpro claim there tuff, last pic is rb30 diesel out of patrol


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## geoffree (May 16, 2010)

Looks like my old photo, Rd28 from a Nissan Patrol, not an Rb.


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## ela-re69 (May 3, 2012)

yep yep, i spell it wrong, ment to be rd


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## WHITER33 (Feb 4, 2009)

The RD28 block is strong if your interested in spending the money on it.

ALLOUT R33 SKYLINE [email protected] - YouTube
This is running the RB28 block with RB26 head.


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## ela-re69 (May 3, 2012)

i know, but cost alot to make fit 26 head, oil/water galliers, custom made head studs ect


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## WHITER33 (Feb 4, 2009)

Correct

Or just use the RB30 block with Nitto 3.2 or Spool 3.4 stroker kit


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## ela-re69 (May 3, 2012)

we give nitto the flick for carrillos rods best


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## SklyaFett (Oct 18, 2005)

ela-re69, do you live in aus? Would it be possable to sorce an rb30 block with the oil and water feeds?


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## ela-re69 (May 3, 2012)

yes i can get u rb30 blocks  im in aus


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## ela-re69 (May 3, 2012)

ring this number 0395449155 , rb30 wreckers, u just add the area code uk to aus
they can ship on pallet


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## WHITER33 (Feb 4, 2009)

What price are you guys getting quoted for a RB30 block..?


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## ela-re69 (May 3, 2012)

i picked 2 up short bottend for $200 each $110 on pallet to canberra


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## WHITER33 (Feb 4, 2009)

Thats cheap enough. I was offered a complete running RB30 for $200 today.
The original single cam engines where common to warp the head so there are plenty of engine laying around


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## SklyaFett (Oct 18, 2005)

But are they the correct blocks for skylines with the water and oil pickups?


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## WHITER33 (Feb 4, 2009)

There are heaps about here mate. I have one in my engine bay.
And I know a guy 5mins from my house who has 3 sitting out behind his shed


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## G37Sam (Nov 12, 2012)

I picked up an RB30E block which I'll be mating it to an RB26 head.

1) Will I need to use ARP Head Studs or will the Nissan Head studs do? I'm not planning to run more than 500whp for now.

2) Can anyone help me with OEM Nissan Head Studs part number so I can source them locally?

3) I know some drilling in the block will have to be done to fit the bigger RB26 studs into the RB30 block, anyone know what the hole diameters on the block and head are?

Cheers,
Sam


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## R.I.P.S NZ (May 7, 2004)

Sam, you do not need new bolts, used RB25 head bolts are fine for what you want to do but if you want to (or can't get any RB25 head bolts easily) just use some off the shelf ARP 11mm head studs as listed for RB25.

FORGET about needing 12mm head bolts/studs.

Rob


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## G37Sam (Nov 12, 2012)

You're than man Rob, thank you!


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## Jimefam (Apr 30, 2011)

R.I.P.S NZ said:


> Sam, you do not need new bolts, used RB25 head bolts are fine for what you want to do but if you want to (or can't get any RB25 head bolts easily) just use some off the shelf ARP 11mm head studs as listed for RB25.
> 
> FORGET about needing 12mm head bolts/studs.
> 
> Rob


On your 1500hp motors you use the regular 25 arp bolts? If so that's comforting as id been told they lift past 30psi or so.


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## R.I.P.S NZ (May 7, 2004)

Jimefam said:


> On your 1500hp motors you use the regular 25 arp bolts? If so that's comforting as id been told they lift past 30psi or so.


Within reason the boost isn't the deciding factor as to wether the head will lift or not and 30psi/1200-1300hp is no problem for 11mm studs if setup/tuned right. 
Going to bigger studs can sometimes cause problems so I stick with 11mm for just about every build.


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## Jimefam (Apr 30, 2011)

R.I.P.S NZ said:


> Within reason the boost isn't the deciding factor as to wether the head will lift or not and 30psi/1200-1300hp is no problem for 11mm studs if setup/tuned right.
> Going to bigger studs can sometimes cause problems so I stick with 11mm for just about every build.


Good to know thanks for the info, ive got the L19 studs which I hope will get the job done but its nice to hear from someone whos got the experience you do. Same thing with the bottom end, I admit the fact ive got a stock crank and girdle makes me nervous.


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## R.I.P.S NZ (May 7, 2004)

Jimefam said:


> I admit the fact ive got a stock crank and girdle makes me nervous.


Shouldn't be a problem, I ran 6.99 @ 193mph with a stock crank and cradle and no cradle/lower block braces of any kind.


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## Jimefam (Apr 30, 2011)

R.I.P.S NZ said:


> Shouldn't be a problem, I ran 6.99 @ 193mph with a stock crank and cradle and no cradle/lower block braces of any kind.


An amazing feat, I'm sure your right although the extra 800lbs I'm carrying wont help matters. Youve probably said before on here but how often do u swap replace bearings? I recall a thread on here where it was said the project gtst rb gets new bearings every 5 to 7 passes, I know you mentioned you go much further in between changes but I don't remember how many passes that was.


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## R.I.P.S NZ (May 7, 2004)

At 1200-1300hp/10,000rpm we would go 150-200 7 second runs.

At 1400-1500hp/10,000rpm we did probably 50-70 runs at 6.99 to 7.20s then it was the end of the season, motor came apart and they were in remarkably good condition, you could see they had done some work for sure, but they would have gone 20-30 runs more easily I would expect without hurting the crank.

My setup was a basic wet sump with a tomei pump, not a dry sump like project gts-t so I don't know why they changed bearings so often.

Rob


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## Jimefam (Apr 30, 2011)

R.I.P.S NZ said:


> At 1200-1300hp/10,000rpm we would go 150-200 7 second runs.
> 
> At 1400-1500hp/10,000rpm we did probably 50-70 runs at 6.99 to 7.20s then it was the end of the season, motor came apart and they were in remarkably good condition, you could see they had done some work for sure, but they would have gone 20-30 runs more easily I would expect without hurting the crank.
> 
> ...


Ive also got a dry sump so the plan is to take a look after break in and tuning on the engine dyno then if everything is good check them again after the first test session and replace if needed if not then for sure after 50 passes and try to get a feel for it. I'm running primarily 1/8 so that should help.


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## ela-re69 (May 3, 2012)

could someone explain where I highlighted on the pics difference between 2 types of rb30 blocks


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## jasaircraft (Feb 15, 2009)

would be good to know... so to convert to rb26/30 basically we need rb30 block that has the holes for the idler pulley, oil feed lines and rb25 arp head studs, sump adaptor plate... something else missing?


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## Sub Boy (Jan 28, 2008)

jasaircraft said:


> would be good to know... so to convert to rb26/30 basically we need rb30 block that has the holes for the idler pulley, oil feed lines and rb25 arp head studs, sump adaptor plate... something else missing?


You won't find a RB30 block with the hole for one of the idler pulley, you use one of the factory holes, but the other one needs to be drill and tapped into the block
You are best to find a RB30 block that has the oil feeds and above where the water pump goes make sure the block has a flat surface there, this is where he pulley hole has to go.....it can be done without them, but makes the job harder.
You will need either RB30 or RB25 head bolts, or if you want overkill then the ARP head bolts.


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## jasaircraft (Feb 15, 2009)

Ok, so make a threaded hole for the second idler pulley.

Tomorrow morning Im going to visit one of the largest wreckers in my city (santa cruz-bolivia...yes that is south america hehe) since Ive been told there is an NA Patrol RB30 lying around. Not common to see them here.
Will this NA block have the oil/water feed/return holes on the exhaust side?
If not where should I drill ? same as my 26?

Since Rob has proven stock blocks are really good I only plan to do the following for aging reasons the block might have:
-Long crank nose snout mod (Do I have to machine the crank to fit the long nose adapter? I believe so)
-Forged piston set.
-Make second idler pulley threaded hole
-Get longer timing belt (which? I read a mazda x model one?)
-Make (if not present) oil/water feed/return threaded holes for the turbo.(where to drill?)
-ARP rod bolts (not sure of this but they recommend it for rb26s?)
-ARP head studs (maybe just use the rb30 bolts since in NA form they should have had so much effort).
-Reimax pump gears.
-Modify oil pick up slightly backwards and lower and make my own better baffling.
-sump adapter (how thick? 5mm? aluminum?)
-Usual blueprinting, good headgasket, exhaust gasket, clean building, pre oiling etc etc
If I see some bearing wear should I go ACL?

cheers!


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## jasaircraft (Feb 15, 2009)

Researching I found something a bit disturbing, the lower gearbox bolts wont match the sump since its now lower because of the adaptor plate, so you have to drill new holes... damn its getting a bit troublesome...


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## xxfr (Apr 28, 2009)

jasaircraft said:


> Researching I found something a bit disturbing, the lower gearbox bolts wont match the sump since its now lower because of the adaptor plate, so you have to drill new holes... damn its getting a bit troublesome...


Yes, you will need to do this. 

And mind you it is all worth it in the end. You will smile and giggle like a kid with a new toy once you drive it. 

Just make sure you do NOT cut any corners and do everything rigth the frist time.


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## jasaircraft (Feb 15, 2009)

Unfortunately it was a RD28 what a friend saw in the wreckers... So search mode ON again...


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## jasaircraft (Feb 15, 2009)

Im also considering using an rb30 crank (what else? rods? pistons? head bolts?) on the 26 block and fabricating a plate with two gaskets (perfect iron plate of course), like the osgiken kit... anyone done this? 
pros:
transmission bolts match
no sump adapter needed
stock rb30 crank, rods and pistons confirmed to hold 1000hp by Rob
torque
better spool up

cons? 
maybe the first gasket has to be blonde hair thin so it doesnt play against rings?
make long nose oil pump thing (not much hassle)


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## David (Apr 25, 2003)

jasaircraft said:


> Im also considering using an rb30 crank (what else? rods? pistons? head bolts?) on the 26 block and fabricating a plate with two gaskets (perfect iron plate of course), like the osgiken kit... anyone done this?
> pros:
> transmission bolts match
> no sump adapter needed
> ...


There is little point doing that as you will find the rb30 crank is just as hard to find in the UK as a bottom end.

Also if you use the rb26 block your loosing the strength advantage of the rb30 ( unless you use an expensive n1 block as OS do) you will also need liners.


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## jasaircraft (Feb 15, 2009)

well, I have found more rb30 cranks and rods than the whole bottom end on the web, I have looked for a longtime around in my country and have not found any rb30s not even in patrols, also transporting a crank and rods is cheaper and easier than the whole bottom end.
Regarding the strength of the 26 block, I think its ok if you are not going mental hp figures...


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## ela-re69 (May 3, 2012)

look in Australia wreckers , there is rb30 1000's of them out of vl commodore
cost $300 aus dollars for bottom end 
cheers


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## jasaircraft (Feb 15, 2009)

ela-re69 said:


> look in Australia wreckers , there is rb30 1000's of them out of vl commodore
> cost $300 aus dollars for bottom end
> cheers


thats cheap... I would need a contact in australia that could pallet an engine send it by ship and the same in Chile... its quite a hassle but doable.
A crank and rods could be sent by air and wouldnt be so expensive.
I like the idea of not having to do a sump adapter and that sump to trans bell housing wouldnt have issues...


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## xxfr (Apr 28, 2009)

jasaircraft said:


> thats cheap... I would need a contact in australia that could pallet an engine send it by ship and the same in Chile... its quite a hassle but doable.
> A crank and rods could be sent by air and wouldnt be so expensive.
> I like the idea of not having to do a sump adapter and that sump to trans bell housing wouldnt have issues...


Why do you think you wouldn't have to do the sump adapter?


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## Sub Boy (Jan 28, 2008)

xxfr said:


> Why do you think you wouldn't have to do the sump adapter?


^^ What he said.
The RB30 block is narrower than the RB26, so it will always need an adaptor


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## jasaircraft (Feb 15, 2009)

xxfr said:


> Why do you think you wouldn't have to do the sump adapter?


Because you keep the 26 block... Which matches the stock sump and trans bell housing... That is thinking of using the plate on the top of course...


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## Sub Boy (Jan 28, 2008)

jasaircraft said:


> Because you keep the 26 block... Which matches the stock sump and trans bell housing... That is thinking of using the plate on the top of course...


Ah, So you are going to run a spacer and get it and the block sleeved?


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## ela-re69 (May 3, 2012)

ring this number 03 9544 9155 put your international call in front or email [email protected]

holden wrecker


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## R.I.P.S NZ (May 7, 2004)

jasaircraft said:


> Because you keep the 26 block... Which matches the stock sump and trans bell housing... That is thinking of using the plate on the top of course...


REAL hard way of going about it mate, I guarantee it will end up costing you more and its quite probable you will have issues.

With a 30 block and an adapter plate the 4wd sump bolts straight on and after a very minor mod to the sump the bell housing all bolts back up as per normal.

Rob


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## xxfr (Apr 28, 2009)

jasaircraft said:


> Because you keep the 26 block... Which matches the stock sump and trans bell housing... That is thinking of using the plate on the top of course...


Then why do you need it shipped from Australia, you have blocks there in your locale. 

Cost of making a RB30 sump adaptoper compared to making a head sandwich plate, I can see which will cost more. Add the sleeping cost, as Rob said costs will elevate.


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## rmiguelcar (Jul 11, 2012)

Rob, some people go for Patrol Block but why? What´s the difference between RB30S and RB30E, etc?


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## Sub Boy (Jan 28, 2008)

Not sure I've heard of a RB30S, but the biggest thing to look for in an RB30 block is the flat surface above the water pump, this is needed to fit the tensioner, also look for the turbo oil return in the middle of the bottom of the block on the hot side.


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## rmiguelcar (Jul 11, 2012)

Sub Boy said:


> Not sure I've heard of a RB30S, but the biggest thing to look for in an RB30 block is the flat surface above the water pump, this is needed to fit the tensioner, also look for the turbo oil return in the middle of the bottom of the block on the hot side.


It doesnt aswer me the question but its very a interesting information 
Thanks m8

BTW, is RB30 crank forged?


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## R32 Combat (Jan 29, 2004)

The RB30S is the carb version. The Patrol I broke has thst engine. The RB30E was never sold in the UK. 
Is there a difference, i do not know. But the RB30S had the oil drain for the turbo. The engine number was RB30 200006A. I think that makes it a series 2 block.

All Nissan cranks are cast.


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## rmiguelcar (Jul 11, 2012)

R32 Combat said:


> The RB30S is the carb version. The Patrol I broke has thst engine. The RB30E was never sold in the UK.
> Is there a difference, i do not know. But the RB30S had the oil drain for the turbo. The engine number was RB30 200006A. I think that makes it a series 2 block.
> 
> All Nissan cranks are cast.



Patrol RB30 was only sold in Australia i think.

Tnks for the info.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

R32 Combat said:


> All Nissan cranks are cast.


I had heard that RD28 cranks were forged. No idea if that is true though.


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## R32 Combat (Jan 29, 2004)

rmiguelcar said:


> Patrol RB30 was only sold in Australia i think.
> 
> Tnks for the info.


No it was not.


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## rmiguelcar (Jul 11, 2012)

About RB26/30: can i use a RB26 head gasket with RB30 block?


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## R32 Combat (Jan 29, 2004)

rmiguelcar said:


> About RB26/30: can i use a RB26 head gasket with RB30 block?


Yep. I used an 'O'ringed block and a stock head gasket.


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## David (Apr 25, 2003)

rmiguelcar said:


> Patrol RB30 was only sold in Australia i think.
> 
> Tnks for the info.


I can also confirm I have bought 3 uk rb30's from patrols. They are rare but not impossible to find


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## rmiguelcar (Jul 11, 2012)

Tnks for the info guys


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## R32 Combat (Jan 29, 2004)

RB30S


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## 900ss (Aug 16, 2010)

Easier to find a Dodo then an RB30 Patrol :chuckle:


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## rmiguelcar (Jul 11, 2012)

Do RB26 pistons fit in RB30? (with RB26 head)


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## David (Apr 25, 2003)

rmiguelcar said:


> Do RB26 pistons fit in RB30? (with RB26 head)


Physically yes but they sit I think 3mm low so the block would have to be skimmed significantly.

These are enough specific pistons available from cp pistons mahle ect to suit rb30 and rb26 head to not make it worth while modifying to use standard 26 pistons.


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