# My BNR32



## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

My R32 is on a boat bound for these shores. Thought I'd post up some initial shots to keep me going whilst I await it's arrival. I know that the car needs a wash and some tidying before anyone mentions it!










Splitter needs painting and I think an undertray might be on the agenda too










Tints will go, I fancy a diffuser and Nismo lip spoiler










Nismo sideskirts/spats would be nice. Apparently three spoke Advans are very light. Can't stand them myself so...


























Never quite understood why people only change the driver's seat. Can't stand it myself so I'll have either find an OEM seat or buy another to match the aftermarket one.










Good, it has an engine! Should be in good nick given the mileage. Wonder if I can isolate the filters from all that under-bonnet heat better.










Looks like the previous owner had a boot install in here. I'll need a replacement carpet then. Perhaps a good time to move the battery to the boot...


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## WillRobDon (Jul 29, 2006)

Looks like you'll need a gear knob as well. Glad to see another R32 on our shores, i like the wheels by the way!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

You like them!?!?

They scream SAAB 900 to me but each to their own. I'm sure they'll be in the for sale section when I've got some replacements sorted.

I had noticed the gear-knob I have Sparco leather one from my old GTiR in the garage somewhere so that'll be fitted.


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## Major_Sarcasm (Jul 28, 2004)

Can't abide 3-spokes either mate, but the Advans are reputed to be as light as hell.

Nice looking motor, a few little bits tidied and it'll be a stunner.


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## MacGTR (Dec 31, 2006)

Nice car there but needs a bit of TLC by the looks of it. The 3 spokes are always a marmite topic and don't take my fancy.


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## matty32 (Dec 18, 2005)

i like 3 spokes, yourl get very good £ for them on sxoc.

mods on the car look quite old though (hks very old school bovs)

looks ok though 

(btw nismo dont make a splitter for an R32GTR)

BUT you do have a clock!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

matty32 said:


> i like 3 spokes, yourl get very good £ for them on sxoc.
> 
> mods on the car look quite old though (hks very old school bovs)
> 
> ...


A few quid for the current wheels would be nice, help me offset those Nismo/Rays I spoke to you about!

I think that the BOVs will go. Can't see the point of them anyway. Not keen on that under bonnet bling thing. So I think I'll block them off and run without.

The undertray will probably be the Abflug one we discussed. Was thinking about it the other day and I wondering if a GRP might be a better bet than CF. Given the number speed bumps infesting the roads nowadays something which can be repainted might be a good call.

Is having a clock a good thing and more to the point how can you tell that from those pictures!?!?!


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## T.F.S. (Feb 5, 2004)

3 spokes are cool!


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## jordan (Jan 31, 2008)

Importers take the gear knobs off when the cars go for shipping so people dont steal them. Many are made of titanium etc and a re worth quite a bit.

When you get the car make sure you hunt around in the dash etc


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## Micky Hanson (Oct 1, 2006)

nice 32 mate, when is it due in
the body work looks good just needs a good wash and wax, 
and a touch up on the splitter


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## frostmotorsport (Aug 10, 2007)

yeah, I'd planned on having to buy a gear knob when mine arrived, but the guys had packaged it up with manuals, remotes etc and shipped it seperately so it didn't all get tea leafed. Best just to wait till it arrives and evaluate then. Frustrating I know - I waited nearly 2 months for mine!!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Picked this up yesterday:



Think I need to look into re-trimmers.

Hmm now leather or alcantara...


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## dean j (Jan 28, 2007)

Or how bout both!

Sexy! Black leather outer, silver ala inserts


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## Stachi (Jan 26, 2008)

Momo Corse, the best steering wheel imo! Nice looking car, will be a beauty once its properly washed and waxed! 

Marc


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

I'm getting drawn towards black half leather for the bolsters/sides and a grey alcantara for the centre sections. Along the lines of the stock set-up but with a larger alcantara section on the bottom than stock. Considering grey stitching for the leather too. I'd like to keep it looking vaguely like standard. Does anyone know if there was a leather option on the R32?

Popped over to see a local trimmer today. Lovely bloke who had a range of lovely cars being worked on. However after a quick chat and as I noticed what he was actually working (a 250GTO and 1920s Ford thing with pcitures of the work he's done on F40s in the background) on I realised he might be a big high end for me. Don't want to spend more than the value of the car on the retrim!


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## WillRobDon (Jul 29, 2006)

Don't bother with a re-trim just gets some Bride Gias' in there! The standard seats aren't that great anyway, but not bad.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

I rather like the stock seats TBH. There's already a Bride or some such in the car which I did consider matching on the passenger side but then you end up with the seats not matching front to rear.

Cheers for the suggestion though!


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## jordan (Jan 31, 2008)

well then, buy some bride fabric and retrim the rears


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

But that would end up costing more than the re-trim I'm planning and I'd have cloth seats rather than leather/alcantara! I'm not too keen on having dirty great big bride logos running across my seats either. Given that I'm happy with the stock seats the whole process would be pointless.


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## WillRobDon (Jul 29, 2006)

Tell you what, you buy some Bride's and i'll happily swap you for my immaculate seating!!:chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle:


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

If your interior has had a leather and alcantara re-trim then I might be temped!

:chuckle:


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## WillRobDon (Jul 29, 2006)

haha fair one. There was a set of leather ones for sale a few months back. Make sure you get some pics up once you've had it done, it'll be interesting to see how they come out.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Will do.

I've seen someone else has had their's trimmed but I can't remember who. It was a Candy red R32 with black and red leather. A bit much for me but looked good none the less.

PS I have a cunning plan for the spare Recaro/Bride/whatever drivers seat anyway...


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

*Update*

Have now taken delivery of the car!

I already had a replacement set of wheels for the, ahem, beautiful Advans. So off with the old:



















For those interested those are Advan SA3R in 17x9 with an ET22 offset (5mm spacer) running 225/45R17 tyres and they weigh:










Replacements are a little more attractive IMHO:










Volk SE37 18x9.5 ET15 (not 100% on the offset) with 255/35R18 tyres. They're a fair bit lighter than Advans which is nice:










Finished article:


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## tomek (Apr 4, 2008)

nice.. 

Amazing what a good clean can do.. From your first pics looks to be a defi controller mounted on the near side of your h/u


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## tuRBy (Feb 8, 2006)

wow what a difference changing the wheels has made! looks great with the volks!

Also suprised the 18inch volks weigh less than the 17inch 3-spoke advans, thought the advans were a very light wheel!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

tomek said:


> nice..
> 
> Amazing what a good clean can do.. From your first pics looks to be a defi controller mounted on the near side of your h/u


Yes that's right. There's a rev counter, oil pressure, oil temp and boost.

Can't imagine why you'd put a rev counter in the glove box. I thinking about amalgamating some of those units with the stock one (ie replace the stock boost gauge and oil pressure gauge) and dump the rev counter and the controller unit.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

tuRBy said:


> wow what a difference changing the wheels has made! looks great with the volks!
> 
> Also suprised the 18inch volks weigh less than the 17inch 3-spoke advans, thought the advans were a very light wheel!


Could be that the tyres have a hand in it too. Still one set is 30cm wider than the other so should be heavier!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

My front speakers were not producing anything close to music to replacements seemed a good idea. I had some 5" components sat in the garage so off came the door cards and this is what I found:










Hmm no wonder they weren't doing much. Set about modifying the mounts from here:










Started off with a hacksaw and drill but that was taking far too long so out came the angle grinder. Much better. Drilled out new mounting holes for the round speakers:










And the finished article:


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## Micky Hanson (Oct 1, 2006)

looking good mate,


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## CliveJ (Sep 9, 2005)

*More sensible goodies....*

Always happy to spend other people's money - could I suggest before winter, you might like to be able to see in the dark.... think about some HID headlights, m8! Plenty of info on the forum. And then some decent brakes....!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

CliveJ said:


> Always happy to spend other people's money - could I suggest before winter, you might like to be able to see in the dark.... think about some HID headlights, m8! Plenty of info on the forum. And then some decent brakes....!


HID's are already on the agenda! Vaguely temped to pull the stock lights apart and stick in some bright LED units for the sidelights too, perhaps respray the surrounds too...

Brakes I may do but the current ones are holding up OK. Perhaps when I start pushing the car a bit harder it'll move up my list.

I've got my eyes open for a boot spoiler then I get the repainting work done and new bits added.


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## etikoner (Apr 14, 2007)

Cool car, i like the new rims, and im pretty sure the BOV is there for a good reason, if you don't like the sound it makes you can probably get one that re-routes it, but i dont recoemmend deleting it all toegther.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Picked up some new bits (cheers Gaz) and had a crack at fitting them to the car. Part of this involved me removing some more useless bits. Including about five miles of redundant audio wiring off came the stock amlifier. Judging by the scorch marks in the upper right corner that'll be the reason why the original owner bypassed it:










Anyway the main event was the spare set of clocks I got. After a little deconstruction I got to here:










The observant may be wondering why I've split out the voltmeter and water temp/oil pressure guages. With the brace of aftermarket gauges in the glovebox I thought that they'd be better place instead of the centre gauages. However having two oil pressure gauages and no voltmeter seemed a little silly.










From what I can see if I can get a new face made to include the volmeter next to the water temp gauage. I should then be able to ditch the stock centre guages and use the aftermarket ones.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Update from last weekend.

Had some new oil delivered from Opie:



Jacked the car, got it on blocks then proceeded to open the gearbox plugs. Starting with the fill plug of course! To those interest 1/2 ratchet drive is perfect and you'd be hard pressed to get anything more that in given the space.



Then onto the drain plug to get the old oil out.



Then the new oil goes in. I should point out that this pic is NOT the way to do it. The Redline oil is so thick it was taking forever. Might have been helped if the tube was a larger diameter. Ended up using a pump (powered by electric dill).



Oh and yes the Redline does bear more than a passing resemblance to raspberry smoothie!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Got the car back from the paint-shop so spats, grill and spoiler now on. Bumper repainted too. Unfortunately the splitter has been painted so may times as to need replacement (see pics).










Might paint the mesh bit black.










Perhaps pop a badge on there too. Don't want to go down the GTR route so perhaps a Skyline S...


















Spats tidy up the rear arches nicely and counter balance the trailing edge spats.

Interior should be ready soon so I suppose I'd better pull my finger out and sort out the wiring.


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## GouldyGTR (May 17, 2008)

wow ! nice to see another one being brought back to its former glory
not over keen on the grille though tbh

hope your pleased with the outcome!


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## davew (Apr 28, 2003)

Hi Mate

if you need anything GTR then dropme a line or look at my trade adverts


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

GouldyGTR said:


> wow ! nice to see another one being brought back to its former glory
> not over keen on the grille though tbh
> 
> hope your pleased with the outcome!


I have the original if I decide I hate it!

The slatted stock one dates the car in my eyes hence the change. I am leaning towards black mesh rather than silver but we'll see how I feel in a couple of days.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

davew said:


> Hi Mate
> 
> if you need anything GTR then dropme a line or look at my trade adverts


Have been looking at your ads already. If you happen to have a mint splitter drop me a line.

Cheers!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Harry sent me through a few pics of my recovered/restored seats. Won't be travelling up to have them fitted for a week or two but they look much nicer than when I dropped them off!

The rear bench:










Gaiters and centre arm-rest:










The seats themself:


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## WillRobDon (Jul 29, 2006)

Those seats are very nice, tasteful too! I'd be very intrested to hear how the clock conversion works out, i'd be intrested in ditching the centre gauges but keeping the volt gauge, but stock OPG can go as aftermarket replacement is much more accurate. 

Did you ever sell the advan 3 spokes?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

willrobdon said:


> Those seats are very nice, tasteful too! I'd be very intrested to hear how the clock conversion works out, i'd be intrested in ditching the centre gauges but keeping the volt gauge, but stock OPG can go as aftermarket replacement is much more accurate.
> 
> Did you ever sell the advan 3 spokes?


3 Spokes are long gone. Had the offer before I'd even pciked up the car!

Clock conversion is in the pipeline. I already have some new centre gauges but haven't gotten all the appropriate bits to mount the senders etc. I also need to knock up a mounting plate for the gauges (stock dial faceplate is too close together).

I've seen an R32 dash with the boost gauge transposed to where the torque meter is so I don't think I'm being that original. Decent accurate gauges do seem like a worthwhile replacement for the stockers. To my way of thinking the torque meter is a bit pointless but is useful to see so you know the 4WD is working. Water temp really just needs to tell me Cold, OK and Hot. Voltmeter likewise (not enough, enough, too much) so they can stay stock items. Oil temp and pressure are the important one IMHO.

Trying to make the interior look standard but better if you know what I mean. Though I am temped to get the dash covered in the grey alcantara...


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## WillRobDon (Jul 29, 2006)

Yep totally agree with you, i think the ones to keep are the front torque, volt, fuel and water temp (although aftermarket water temp is also handy.) Be intresting to see the results, also while it's out you could swap the bulbs for something a bit more modern, i plan on doing this in the future. 

I think it was AndyH on here that had his dash trimmed in alcantara which'd help you make your mind up.

As clarkson says it's chiseled from one large piece of vulgalor plastic!

P.s, where did you get the gearknoc/handbrake and centre stowage bin trimed, looks very good!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

willrobdon said:


> Yep totally agree with you, i think the ones to keep are the front torque, volt, fuel and water temp (although aftermarket water temp is also handy.) Be intresting to see the results, also while it's out you could swap the bulbs for something a bit more modern, i plan on doing this in the future.
> 
> I think it was AndyH on here that had his dash trimmed in alcantara which'd help you make your mind up.
> 
> ...


LEDS for the dash are on the list. Must find if it's possible to change the colour of the clock.

The retrimming was done LSC Interiors I can send you the details if your interested. The interior is mostly back in now (I'll do some pics if the sun ever shows its face). I've yet to finish the door cards as they form (a small part) of one of my cunning plans.

Anyway today I put this harness adapter together from a Nissan to DIN adapter I had knocking about (DIN bit in the background). Was going to completely rewire the speakers etc but had a sudden change of heart and decided it would be neater to use the OEM wiring and be able to unclip everything and put it back to stock. In retrospect I should have used smaller block connectors but hey ho!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Door card update:

Have my door cards with their lovely new alcantara inserts but the backing for the door pockets were looking a bit rubbish:










No fear the backing comes out quite easily. It has a couple of screws holding it in and is glued along the bottom edge:










Removed the panel and primed it:









Then sprayed it satin black with some stuff called Plasticoat:









The finished article (the observant may notice the mount for the tweaters, just need to work out where to put the cross-over thing now):


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

If anyone actually saw the note I posted in the for sale section you may know that I bought some radiator cooling panels from a chap is Australia. At first I thought they were rubbish and lumpy. But after after removing the protective film I realised they were rather nice and shiny.

From this:









To this:


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## Rostampoor (Nov 20, 2006)

Nice!
Car looks badass with those wheels on going with the black plaint.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Cheers. I might even refurb them oneday!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Spent most of the weekend messing about with seat-belts and sick to the teeth of it. So sick in fact I put my hand in my pocket and....

Anyway finally got the wiring for the speakers done. If there had been any daylight or less chance of frostbite I'd have fitted them too!










My use of the original wiring loom should allow the card to still be removed by just unplugging the speaker and disconnecting from the speaker loom.


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## dean j (Jan 28, 2007)

I dont like them wheels one bit!!!

Tell you what. As im a nice bloke, i'll help you out. Sell em to me, and get something else. I'll bear em on my car!!! Only just!!!


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## Kadir (Mar 23, 2008)

SE37s are so nice! :thumbsup:


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## CSB (Nov 15, 2007)

thought i would never see another skyline with a same air freshener placed in the same position as mine, i love it


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Some pics of the lovely leather/alcantara interior actually fitted. You can even see my solution to the rubbish stock seat belts. Finally something with an E mark in the car...


































Just need to get a wriggle on to get the car under-sealed.


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## jaycabs (Nov 16, 2007)

how much did you pay for the retrim ?


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## Philip (Jan 17, 2002)

The retrim looks much better than the usual efforts.

Re the speaker mounts - you should seal the gaps around the speakers on the mounts (i.e. so the air in front of the cone is separated from the air behind the cone).

Phil

P.S. When you decide you really want some Nismo GT1s instead of the SE37s, let me know.


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## brett21 (Apr 20, 2005)

Cris said:


> Some pics of the lovely leather/alcantara interior actually fitted. You can even see my solution to the rubbish stock seat belts. Finally something with an E mark in the car...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Im really liking those seats, Its the only thing i want doing to mine,, Would be nice to know how much as well, :thumbsup:

Keep up the good work.

Cheers


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Philip said:


> The retrim looks much better than the usual efforts.
> 
> Re the speaker mounts - you should seal the gaps around the speakers on the mounts (i.e. so the air in front of the cone is separated from the air behind the cone).
> 
> ...


Cheers! The chap who did it used to do Range Rovers (in the factory) so the quality of it is excellent.

It would be very difficult to seal the speaker units. All I could do would be to build an adaptor plate. Thanks for the tip I may revisit them later but I've only just got the door cards back in after months so I'd like to leave them as is for a bit. I still have to work on my cunning plan as the head unit is out of the car and I need to fabricate a new mounting point for it and my new gauges, but before I can do that I've got to........

I'm not a big fan of split rims I'm afraid. If you'd said GT4s...:thumbsup:


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

To those interested the re-trim cost £1050 (all in). Took about a month though they lent me a pair of front seats while they were doing mine. Car was bloody loud with no interior (still is but that's another matter).

Fellow is a gent to deal with but not a site supporter so PM me if you need the detail.

NB seat belts didn't come from him and are (to my knowledge) the only inertia reel 3 point harnesses other that Schroth available in the country. About a third of the cost too.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Had a box arrive today.....


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## etikoner (Apr 14, 2007)

:O work rims ? 

haha. cool build up.
you should black out the grill. looks borderline rice.


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## Kadir (Mar 23, 2008)

Excellent build up..


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

etikoner said:


> :O work rims ?
> 
> haha. cool build up.
> you should black out the grill. looks borderline rice.


You are spot on there which is why I painted the grill the other week. Haven't gotten round to taking a picture yet though...

PS they aren't work rims (too heavy!) my next picture might help.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Getting warmer:


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## murano3 (Mar 23, 2005)

Great work chap - loving the replacement wheels - but I still have a soft spot for the old three spokes .

Looks great buddy.


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## jaycabs (Nov 16, 2007)

murano3 said:


> Great work chap - loving the replacement wheels - but I still have a soft spot for the old three spokes .
> 
> Looks great buddy.


i think i prefer the 3 spoke on there than the new wheels :nervous:


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

jaycabs said:


> i think i prefer the 3 spoke on there than the new wheels :nervous:


Each to their own. Beauty's in the eye of the beholder. One man's meat is another man's poison. etc etc


















































You're still wrong though


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Bought a replacement headlamp off fleabay. The projector bit was secured properly so I took it apart to see what was what. FWIW 15 minutes in the oven at 130C and the glass pretty much dropped off:

With the glass removed

















Completely dissembled now. The silver plastic trim can be removed by unscrewing the two screws at the top then levering out the piece to pop the two ball and socket joints at the bottom.

















Found the problem. The plastic sleeve on the adjuster rod thing should be attached to the housing. It's obviously sheared off. Slightly annoyed the seller didn't mention this in the description. Might be able to glue it back together, if not I'll have to cannibalise the unit on the car which is a pain!


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## jaycabs (Nov 16, 2007)

Cris said:


> Each to their own. Beauty's in the eye of the beholder. One man's meat is another man's poison. etc etc
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Maybe its because i prefer wheels with bigger gaps


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

jaycabs said:


> Maybe its because i prefer wheels with bigger gaps


Big gaps are good. The 37s take forever to clean with all their little corners collecting dirt.

Ideally I'd have put on a set of Nismo GT4s on that basis, but they weren't about when I was looking (at the right price) and they are heavier than the 37s.

Personally the perfect wheel I think (discounting the carbon and mag stuff) is the BuddyClub QF1. Lovely 6 spoke design and the lightest wheel going!









Buddyclub uk


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Cris said:


> You are spot on there which is why I painted the grill the other week. Haven't gotten round to taking a picture yet though...


After the car's weekly bath I thought it was such a nice day I'd take a picture of the painted grill:


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## JonR32GTR (Jan 10, 2007)

Looks ten times better with blacked out mesh Cris, and those wheels looks so good on your car, great work! :thumbsup:


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

If you're really observant you might notice one of the reasons behind my headlamp project. I have a theory that I can fit some bi-xenon projectors which might be a first for an R32...


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

*Mobile phone theme*

In case anyone's interested I thought I post up the theme I did for my K850i (green). The file is in the attached zip file. Just unzip and copy to your theme folder on the phone.

It looks something like this:










However I've set it up to use a new flash menu (so might not work on phones without this menu). It's a little involved to get the new flash menu on the phone but this tutorial should help - Flash Themes Help and Tools. The flash menu is here - Flash Menus - Grid scroll down until you see Greeny (slide in) and click on the Cyber-Shot version K850i link.

It's all a bit pointless but might be fun for someone.


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## P3RV3RT (Aug 2, 2005)

The QF's are top alloys, I realy wanted a set for my R32 but they where just a little bit to much! I beleave they are atleast £800 a wheel.

BuddyClub do the SF whih is a copy of the QF but not in the mag, the only offset is an ET35, so no good for the 32 unless your happy fitting spacers.

What side headlight do you need?

Keep up the good work. Baz


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## jaycabs (Nov 16, 2007)

Cris said:


> In case anyone's interested I thought I post up the theme I did for my K850i (green). The file is in the attached zip file. Just unzip and copy to your theme folder on the phone.
> 
> It looks something like this:
> 
> ...



looks like you got the same theme creator programme i got too


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

P3RV3RT said:


> The QF's are top alloys, I realy wanted a set for my R32 but they where just a little bit to much! I beleave they are atleast £800 a wheel.
> 
> BuddyClub do the SF whih is a copy of the QF but not in the mag, the only offset is an ET35, so no good for the 32 unless your happy fitting spacers.
> 
> ...


I think when I looked at them the SF were a fair bit heavier which put me off. The current rims are not that much heavier so I think I'll stick with them. Have been temped to get a set of winter rims in say 8" and run 225s on them for cold/wet weather use. However I'll probably just get something cheapo for that as they'll be covered in salt and crap most of the time anyway!

The broken housing is the front right. I guess by the time I've finished I'll have enough spare parts for someone to replace a broken lens or projector perhaps.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Thought I'd better pull my finger out and get some of the stack of parts I'm amassing actually on the car. First up are the strut-braces I bought. Both are second hand so I thought I'd start with some cleaning up.

Front brace before:



After a bit of de-greasing and sanding:



Painted it satin black:



At this point I realised that the brace wasn't going to fit - apparently it's an OEM R33/34 brace and it seems that the mounting bolts are different:




Nothing a saw and a drill can't fix. Chopped the too long tabs off and drilled new mounting holes. Had to do a bit of filing too to de-burr the edges:



Going to have to repaint the affected areas.

Whilst this was going on I thought I'd attack the rear brace too:



The rod is made of ally so doesn't need painting just the end plates get cleaned up:



Then painted and refitted. Decided that as I had loads of silver left I'd use some of that. I think it matches the ally better too:


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Nearly forgot. Update part 2. These are going on tomorrow :thumbsup:





Going to get the ride height raised a bit so I don't have a heart attack every time I see a speed bump.


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## SPEED MERCHANT (Jun 5, 2006)

Good lad on the Meister R suspension.

Jerrick has been testing for ages & I've been putting mine through its paces as one of his demo vehicles for a few months now with some excellent results.

:squintdan


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

New shocks are on and so far are looking good. Though by no means soft they seem to be dealing with bumps better than the Bilsteins. Haven't had the car tracked and aligned yet (CV boot needs to be replaced) so haven't driven it in anger.

One slight fly in the ointment is that my newly modded strut-brace won't fit. The adjusters sit too proud and foul the webbing. If I could be bothered I suppose that some more surgery could be the answer but perhaps now is the time to just by an R32 brace...


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## jorgeez (Sep 12, 2008)

Wow! You did a pretty great job building this R32. The Meister R suspension is awesome stuff man. Good job and keep it up!

__________________
Corsa Parts


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Woohoo - finally got round to dumpy the poxy stock battery and sticking in something more substantial. Only reasonable place I could find for the new battery was the back of the boot:










The attractive stain is polish, wonder if I can wash it. Anyway I had to manufacture a new boot floor panel and obviously I've ditched the spare wheel. Used the stock brace to hold it secure.










I attached a fuse to the side of the battery box in case any shorts occur. The positive cable is run under the car though in some tubing to protect it. The tubing also has a nice junction grommet thing to stop water ingress through the hole.










Used a 300A rated junction box to link up the car loom with my new extended positive. It sits in the space vacated by the battery.










Replaced the fusible link with a maxi-fuse and a water-proof holder.










Just need to get a radio to replace my carputer and I'm set for the trip to la sarthe.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Had a bit of a water problem on the trip down to La Sarthe. Turned out some hose at the back of the engine split which didn't help. Large quantities of steam meant an immediate pit stop and recovery truck (that was less immediate).

Anyway the upshot of this was some work replacing the knackered pipe and it's brothers just in case (not by me I must add).

The upshot of this work was my discovery that some clag had dislodged itself in my radiator. After mucking about with rad flush and failing to improve things I decided it was time for a new rad.

Bought one of these from fleabay:










This is what it replaces










There are some differences between the two items, the new one is thicker and doesn't have plastic end tanks. However it only has the top mounting points for the fan shroud:


















I'll have to hack the fan shroud up a bit but that shouldn't be a problem.

However there is a problem with the new rad. The temp sensor is tapped for a much smaller thread. Looks like I'll have to get it tapped out to a larger thread. Grrr.


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## fourtoes (Feb 27, 2003)

Someone else had the same rad problem a bit back and i think they managed to get it exchanged as they had been sent the wrong one, might be worth a search?
Great project mate.

bob


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Cheers for the hint. I have read the other thread and did consider returning it but I'm not sure it's worth the hassle for want of a bit of tapping. I have it lined up to be done tomorrow so if looks too much like hard work I'll be on returning it. Want the car back on the road ASAP. Can't be missing the nice weather!

This is also only a part of my cooling upgrade plan. Need to get this finished so I can move onto part two.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Realised that I haven't rounded this one off so here's the last of the pics:

Newly tapped hole with the temp sensor fitted:










Spent a fair bit of time modding the fan shroud to fit the new rad:










Unfortunately with the extra thickness of the new rad the shroud refused to fit. I could have hacked the majority of it away but that seemed a bit pointless. Must say I'm wondering if ditching the stock fan and replacing it with another/a pair of electrical fans might not be a good idea. Electrical should require less power to run and if thermostatically controlled could help the engine warm up quicker. Anyway here's the finished article:


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## Mikeydinho (Jan 30, 2009)

Im now like R32 even more, makes me want one. Good thread to read!!!! Keep it up.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Got these the other day:









If the weather hold over the week-end I'll put them together with my cooler and relocation kit.


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## markpriorgts-t (May 23, 2004)

excellent thread !!!!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Oil filter change has turned into a nightmare. More on this in a later post.

Small point but I've been wanting to improve the interior light in the car for sometime. It's not very bright and I have a paranoia about leaving the door open and flattening the battery. I know, I need to get out more.

Anyway amongst other things I purchased a replacement interior bulb (the stock one is a short festoon bulb):









The white bit is 12 little LEDs the bulb shaped bits are adapters to create a socket for the white thing to plug into. Strange as you get five option but can only use one. On the plus side the connector looks the same as one I have kicking around on some cold cathode tubes (from an old PC). Might try using one of the other connectors to rig up the cathodes into the boot so you can actually see something when you open the boot. Only problem is that the cathodes are blue so I may well end up with a lovely Law Flower type neon effect. Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeestside.

Anyway this is the finished article. Much like the original but brighter!


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## cooljustin (Jun 6, 2009)

cool thread mate


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

cooljustin said:


> cool thread mate


Cheers!

On with the update:

As I mentioned before I had a complete 'mare removing the oil filter - not only a bugger to get to but I just couldn't get the bugger off. Bought a new filter remover (chain thing with a socket on it) which not only didn't get the filter off but mangled it - arse! Had to ring up AFR likely a naughty schoolboy and ask them to pretty please sort out the mess I'd made. The annoying thing was I was removing the filter not just because I was doing an oil change but to fit a remote filter head. Job now done - cheers John!










Whilst the filter fiasco was occurring another little problem reared its head. My brake master cylinder was leaking. Decided that this was a good time to replace it and uprate the stocker to the R33 unit (has a larger ratio so less pedal travel). This ended up being a four week fiasco with parts not being shipped, money going astray and all sorts. Eventually I laid my hands on one (cheers Ian) and the new master cylinder was fitted. The stopper kit follow shortly:










The olbsefvant may have noticed that a shiny strut brace is in place. The R33 item I'd been knocking up has been chucked in the corner of the garage as this beauty of an Apexi item appeared. It's ally so about half the weight of the Nissan item:










Following on from my interior LED lights I've replaced the rear lights with LED units. Now I don't like the common units where you can see each individual LED too Lexus Lights for me. I found these replacement bulbs instead:










This is a pick of the LED bulbs on the right and normal incandescents on the left. The colour balance isn't quite right in this picture (camera obviously doesn't like taking pictures in the dark!). In reailty the LEDs are a touch redder than the incandescents and give a much more even light spread. They also draw a tiny amount of the normal juice and apparently last forever:










Here's a little sneaky peek at my current work in progress - bi-xenon projectors. I'm almost there with my first lamp, just need to clean off all the old sealant so I can put some new stuff in/on and re-attach the lense. Might even be the first person in the UK with bi-xenon projectors on an R32. I think that it looks rather good if I do say so myself.










More on this when I'm finished.


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## fourtoes (Feb 27, 2003)

Nice one Cris, are you going to do a step by step of the front light mods?
Where did you get the rear LED bulbs from too? they look cool.

bob


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

fourtoes said:


> Nice one Cris, are you going to do a step by step of the front light mods?
> Where did you get the rear LED bulbs from too? they look cool.
> 
> bob


I'll do a full run through when I do the left hand lamp. I bought the right hand one as a spare (my car has odd headlights! obviously the previous owner smashed one and replaced it with a late model unit, too me nearly a year to notice...) to practise with without having the car off the road. When I do the right hand lamp I'll do a whole photo log, if you're handy with a hacksaw, file and dremmel type thing it's easy, or at least is is when you know what you're doing! As I'm sure you've noticed I've done a bit of painting too (and mentioned on a previous post had to repair the lamp casing) so I reckon that the process will take about three days though you could do it in a day if you weren't painting anything. I've got some super bright LED sidelights and extra special main beam bulbs which will become driving lights. More on this one next year!

Rear bulbs were purchased from here - 380 - 360 degree LED Extreme Power 5W - NEW! - they aren't cheap (you need four of course). Ideally I'd like to replace all of the car bulbs with LEDs (except the main beams) though the indicators and map reading lights might be a bit more tricky.


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## fourtoes (Feb 27, 2003)

Wicked nice one Cris mate! Might grab me some of those LED rear bulbs too.

bob


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Bit of a update from last weekend and even a few bits I forgot to put up before.

Replaced the sump-plug with temp sensor with sump-plug with magnetic lump. Not used one of these before so I'll be interested to see if it turns up any metal come next oil change:









The other belated update is the brake master cylinder brace. I'm surprised that I immediately noticed the difference. Much better pedal feel. Obviously doesn't actually make the car stop better but makes it feel better which is almost as important. Mixed with the R33 master cylinder the brakes feel much more consistent and less wasted pedal effort. Braided hoses will be on sometime soon and they should round things off on the feel side. Will be looking into pads and discs after that:









Bought one of these divided twin turbo pipes from the GTROC Shop. Then caught a cold and sat on it for two weeks - sorry guys:

















Eventually gave it a lick of paint - I can't stand bare metal!









Finally fitted with the requisite number of grubby finger marks. Wasn't too bad to remove the old one but the new one was a bugger to get in place and the pipework connected. Probably would have been better to connect up the fat end first rather than the thin one.









It's not completely solved by shuffle when the engine is semi-cold and the weather is cold/wet/low pressure. Must be a mapping thing as it only happens in these conditions and once the car is warm it goes anyway. Even the improvement is enough to make it a mild annoyance now which is a result.

Boost feels a bit smoother and there could be a little more power - hard to say if it's a placebo effect or not but certainly not worse. It should be better but without a dyno you can't be sure.

Good work by the club having such things in the shop. I'm temped to go for one of the 4WD controller things - wet roundabouts today were interesting!


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## Tarmac Attack (Oct 2, 2008)

I love reading threads like this.
It gives me something to do since I can't work on my own car!
Nice work mate.

Justin


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Not many pictures this time, I was being lazy and the garage did all the hard stuff!

Cambelt service was done. I was originally thinking about a bottom end rebuild but have shelved that until funds allow to do the job properly. Whilst it was in the new braided brake lines were fitted with another nice sharpening of the pedal. I'm much happier with the brake performance now. A new set of (probably bigger) pads and discs will probably make them as good as they need to be. I'm not sure that replacement callipers will be necessary unless (perhaps) I want to turn it into a track car but that's pointless to my mind.

Final upgrade was a set of C collars onto the rear subframe. I wasn't expecting to be able to feel any difference with this one but was surprised when I noted that the tail feels more of one piece. It could be the placebo effect of course...


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## SoMarvelus (Aug 22, 2008)

my mouth is watering waiting for those Works


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

I have some nice shiny new bi-xeonon lights on the car now. As a couple of people have asked how to do it here's a little how-to:

First off remove the headlight unit. You'll need to remove the indicator - unscrew the screw under the bonnet and then pop the indicator out. This exposes three screws underneath. Remove the top and bottom screws. Next you'll need to remove two nuts at the back of the headlight in the enginebay. You might need to remove the battery (I found putting mine in the boot made this bit easier) and for the passengerside you'll probably be best removing the rubber pipework after the twin turbo pipe to get access to the lower nut (need a long socket/extender thingy). You'll probably have to unclip the grill/Venetian blind thing too - I haven't got one so not 100%.

Now remove as much wiring from the headlight as possible. Also take the bulbs and rubber boots/tubes out too. You should be left with just the back of the headlight and the mounting for the bulbs.

With the headlamp off you need to clear out your oven and set pop the headlight in the oven. I popped it on some newspaper to keep the wife happy. Wind the temp up to 120C (I tried 100C and it wasn't enough) for 15 minutes. When you have a look the glass should have fallen off. Whip it out of the oven and carefully lift off the glass. NB wear gloves, it's hot!

You'll then see two screws at the top of the plastic trim piece:

















If you've done this with the headlight still warm you should be able to 'pop' the trim piece off with a big flathead screw-driver easily. It's a bit harder if it's cold.

You should have removed this bit:









You may find that the chrome coating on the plastic is a little tired. Largely it's just cosmetic. There is also a metal (chromed) ring in the hole which the reflector points through. If you're doing anything with the trim piece (perhaps re-chroming it) carefully remove this bit. I course immediately decided to repaint mine satin black....

You should now be able to remove the projector:









You need to unscrew the adjusters until the projector mounting is free. There's a ball and socket connector (like the ones holding the indicators and the above trim piece) to pop out too.

From this point onwards this guide works for how to fit the specific bi-xenon projector I bought. The company that makes them only does an H1/H7 fitting or an H4 fitting. No H3/C so a fair bit of the following is me adapting the kit to fit mounts in my early model projector lights. If you have a later model projector set-up with the H1 dipped beam you probably won't need to do anywhere near a much surgery. However as I've never split a late model headlight apart I'm hardly 100% sure...

The projector should now be free. Unscrew the reflector from the projector. It's held on with four screws:









Put that to one side you'll need it later.

Now take the lens and mounting bracket:









Towards the bottom of the picture you'll see two screws holding the dipped beam shield on. This won't be needed as the new projector has its own shield inside it. So unscrew it. I suggest carefully removing the plastic mounting brackets so you don't damage them, they are a press fit so a pair of wide nose pliers is the best bet. Now take a hacksaw and cut through the 'legs' of the lens nearest the bracket. I'd then take a file to the stumps and remove them. Hardly vital but ally is easy to cut/file and you don;t want to cut yourself later.

You will be left with a bracket which looks like this:









Next up is to manufacture a mounting plate onto which the new projector will sit. The plate will mount onto the four screw holes which used to hold the reflector on. You will also need a cut a hole in the centre of the plate to poke the projector through. I think I used a 60mm holesaw but you're probably best to check that as it was a while ago now. Either side of the centre hole you'll need two small holes to put the 'special projector adapter (TM)' on with - more on this later.

I used some 1mm ally plate (won't tell you where I got it ). Cut it to roughly the right size and then clamped it to the bracket. Get your drill out and using the existing holes in the bracket as guides cut the four outside hole in the plate. Unclamp it and cut/file the outside to size. Exact dimensions aren't important as long as it doesn't stick out past the bracket too far. Get a metal rule and measure the centre point of the four holes you've just drilled in the plate (X marks the spot). This is the centre of the big centre hole (60mm odd). The two side holes can be drilled with the aid of the 'special projector adapter (TM)' and a clamp. You might want to do this bit later when you've made the 'special projector adapter (TM)'.

Anyway the plate should look like this when you've finished:









Now you want to attach the plate to the bracket you chopped up earlier. You'll need four bolts and (preferably) four nylock nuts. Note that the plate won't sit flush with all four holes one is sunken in further than the others. A pair of metal washers will space it out so the plate sits flat:









Now go back to the reflector. Flip it over and clock the bulb holder adapter:









Whip the bulb holder adapter off:









You don't need the spring clip so remove that. If you've not done it already drop the bulb adapter into the big centre hole in the metal plate, clamp it in place and drill the two little holes either side of the centre hole (NB for some reason I still have the spring clip in place here):









Here's a picture of the new bi-xenon projector. Note the cable end of the projector is threaded. There is a butterfly style nut (black), sprung washer (also black) and an H1 adapter ring (guess what - black):









Now to make the 'special projector adapter (TM)'. You see that the H1 adapter ring won't sit in the H3C bulb adapter. Not surprising really:

















As the H1 adapter ring locates the new projector you'll need to sort this out if you want the new projector to be rigidly mounted and not flopping about. Take the bulb adapter and cut off the section where the bulb would usually sit (opposite side to where the spring clip was):









Now you need to cut out the flat section in the outer (raised) locating ring. This will leave the ring as two semi circles with a gap between them. I found that cutting an L section in between the corner where the circle flattens (i.e. the straight bit) and cut horizontally across the surface of the adapter. Some careful work with a needle file flattens the remainder of the bumps out so that the H1 ring can sit flat. See below for the finished article - the shiny bit on the right of the picture has had the material removed:









Next job is best done with a combination of needle files and a Dremel type tool. You need to flatten off the top of the rounded lump (the upper one in the above pic). By top I mean any material which would stop the H1 adapter ring from sitting flat. Also you need to completely remove any material from the square section lump (bottom in the above pic) which is inside the 'hole' of the 'special projector adapter (TM)':









Now take the H1 adapter and cut a notch in it. The notch needs to be wide enough to locate on the (shortened) square section lump mentioned above:









You should now be able to drop the H1 adapter into the 'special projector adapter (TM)':









Almost there. Now take the Dremel (with the H1 adapter in place) and flatten off any material on the square lump which sits proud of the H1 adapter. This will allow the sprung washer (remember him from earlier) to sit onto and actually compress. You can now screw the 'special projector adapter (TM)' onto the ally plate you made earlier:









Now remove the bulb/capsule from the projector (held in with a little screw and gripper thing). Thread the projector through the 'special projector adapter (TM)', drop the sprung washer on and then screw the ally wing nut over everything. It will compress the sprung washer and hold the new projector perfectly in place. Worth checking now that the new projector is the right way up. It should have the top marked on the threads, make sure this bit is the top when test fitting back into the headlight housing. If it's at the bottom slap yourself round the head and fit the ally plate the other way up:

















Front view:









Tomorrow I'll show you how to do the wiring and the finished article.


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## firefighter81 (Apr 9, 2004)

Excellent writeup on the lights! I'm going to be doing this to mine very soon, as I hate the light output on my stock projectors, but I like the projector beam look, so I don't want to change to N1 headlights.

Also, I doubt you have anything available like this in the UK, but here in Japan for about $30 US you can buy this H1 adapter plate for R32's and S13's.










It would just eliminate a little bit of work, but I understand if you are the DIY type and want to do it yourself.

How did you select the projector light? Based on size? There are so many OEM and aftermarket options, I just don't know which one to pick.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

firefighter81 said:


> Excellent writeup on the lights! I'm going to be doing this to mine very soon, as I hate the light output on my stock projectors, but I like the projector beam look, so I don't want to change to N1 headlights.
> 
> Also, I doubt you have anything available like this in the UK, but here in Japan for about $30 US you can buy this H1 adapter plate for R32's and S13's.
> 
> ...


Bugger. Wish I new about those six months ago! I think you'd still need to cut the bulb hole out to fit the projector through.

The projector was picked after much trawling through ebay, forums and chinese wholesalers. Fingers crossed but it seems to be a really good compromise of all the necessary items. It's also just the right length to sit where the stock projector does. Final point was the cost these are cheap compared to the cost most people want for bi-xenons. Chinese wholesalers are the way forward.


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## firefighter81 (Apr 9, 2004)

Can you post a link where you got them from? Thanks!


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## DonVittorio (Apr 18, 2007)

Where can i buy the H1 adapter plate for R32 headlights???


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## firefighter81 (Apr 9, 2004)

DonVittorio said:


> Where can i buy the H1 adapter plate for R32 headlights???


Only place I've seen so far is Yahoo Auctions Japan, there are about 30 of them on there.

???HID H1??????????? R32GT-R??????S13 l - Yahoo!??????

I don't know how you would go about getting it to Europe. Maybe one of the vendors with a Japanese business could help you?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Now onto the wiring. This is the wiring loom which come with the bi-xenons. Not that it doesn't included the ballasts:









First off this bit can be completely removed. I'm not 100% sure what it does - the Engrish instructions aren't too clear. The bottom of the picture shows the 3 pin head light plug, everything below that we're keeping. Best guess is it's a converter for cars which leave dipped beam on when the main beam is on:









Next up is adapting the loom to the car. First job is to create a positive feed from the battery. The loom comes with the below connector. This was no good for me so I chopped it off and fitted an 8mm ring instead. However I have a nice little junction box in place of my battery so you'll probably need to do something else:









I decided that it would be a good idea if the inner incandescent H3 lamp came on with my high beam bi-xenon. Why? Because this way if I flash my headlights at someone they incandescent bulb will work - the xenons take a while to warm up and get going. You could of course ignore this and use the incandescents as auxiliary lights perhaps even wired into the fog light button on the dash.

Anyway you need the old headlight loom which you removed from the back of the headlight near the start of the process:









You want to snip the two wires which travel to the bulb and bulb seat on the right of the above picture. I would suggest snipping them reasonably near to the car end (as opposed to the bulb end) but not too close in case you need to splice it all back together for some reason. Take the wires and strip off some insulation to reveal the wire cores. Now put some new connectors on there. I used Japanese bullets because you can get a 2 into 1 connector and nice little rubber boots to insulate them:









Now go to the new HID loom. At the headlamp connector strip back some of the corrugated tubing around the wires. Then chop the brown and blue wires (NB check their positioning in the below picture in case the manufacturer changes the wiring colours!), don;t cut them too close to the connector though. Now add a two way connector (female) to each of the headlamp connector side wires and a one way connector (male) to the HID side wires: 









Plug the above together keeping blue to blue and brown to brown. You should still have one hole in each female connector free. Now plug the H3 loom you've just made into this with black to brown and blue to red:









OK now you have built a new loom.

Comments - I've not included the wiring for the 'angel eye' bits because I'm ignoring them. Maybe one day I'll wire them up. If you do want to I would suggest using the above method but splicing into the sidelight loom. Also you could use scotch locks to splice in (the kit even comes with a ton of them). Personally I think that they're a nasty solution and don't like the idea of running 55W odd through them.

You should find that the new loom can be connected up to the car - don't forget the ground wire, it comes with a ring on it already which I hooked up to an existing earthing point. You'll need ballasts too. I found some super cheapo ones on fleabay. I bought some spares too as some learned types have warned me that cheapo ones fail. We'll see and perhaps I'll need to buy some decent ones in the future.

Finally below is the finished article, xenons on the left and untouched OEM on the right. I have also added some super bright LED side lights. Partly for brightness, partly so I could spray the trim pieces (LEDs are directional so don't need the reflector bit) and partly so they match the xenons:


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

firefighter81 said:


> Can you post a link where you got them from? Thanks!


This is the Chinese wholesaler - HID Bi-xenon Projector Lens Light (Angel Eye). - China HID Bi-xenon Projector Lens Light,angel eye,Bi-xenon projector lens light in Car Light & Auto Mirror

Example in UK - PROJECTOR LEN KIT Angel Eye E46 M3 TSX H4 D2S HID XENON - £95.35 : carparts-sale.com

I got mine from an ebay seller ages ago...


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Quick update. I'm working on some rose-jointed suspension. Some I got second hand some new. However some of the bearings were complete tat:










This is apparently a brand new bearing but suffice to say I couldn't move the bearing by hand. With one of my big 'adjusting' screwdrivers through the bearing I could just about move it. They're going straight in the bin.

I have since been educating myself about UNF and metric threads. As I bough the bits from different places I have two different types of rose-joint - 5/8s UNF left handed threaded and M16x1.5 right handed thread.

I've been busy painting things too. More info/pics in a future update.

When the above bits are finished I'll be having the car corner weighed and the suspension re-setup. For those interested here are some setting I'vefound by trawling about the forum/interweb:

Front centre of wheel to middle bottom of arch - 355mm
Rear centre of wheel to middle bottom of arch - 345mm

(mine is below this already so will certainly help the ground clearance problems)

Front:

Caster: Max (I assume winding in the adjustable tension rods)
Camber: -1.25 to -1.75
Toe: 0

Rear

Camber: -0.75 ot -1.25
Toe: 1mm


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## git-r (Nov 15, 2005)

Great stuff mate - just read this from the start...

Brilliant progress - keep it coming:thumbsup:


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## L-Oakley (Apr 25, 2009)

Very nice car m8, how much did it cost to import to the UK?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

L-Oakley said:


> Very nice car m8, how much did it cost to import to the UK?


Depends how you work it. From memory I paid the importer £600 as a finders fee/handling costs. Shipping was a similar amount. There were some document fees which I think came out of the importer fee. Then obviously you've got the cost of the car.

Once you get it to the UK you payment duty on the purchase and shipping costs then VAT on the total of that.

Assuming you want to drive the car you'll have to convert it which basically involves putting on a fog light and registering it. Then MOT. Both of these are pretty cheap, MOT is the usual price and I can't remember if there definitely was a registration cost.

I'd also suggest a general service, it will have been a couple of months on a boat and the battery was shot. Some form of remap to UK fuel is also sensible. If you have a stock ECU then there are people who can remap them which is worthwhile, they'll also take the speed limiter off which of course is vital for those frequent visits to Germany.

Update - Suspension bits almost painted. Just drying now so pics up soon.

Have been busy on fleabay/for sale section and the to do list is getting longer...


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## Fuel Performance (Aug 31, 2010)

What a Nice Build!

Well Done!

Did you buy your Spats & Grill New ?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Spats in front of the rear wheels yes, spats behind the rear wheels came with the car (not sure who makes them).

Grill also yes - made by a chap in Oz. They seem to be a bit cheaper nowadays though.


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## blitzman (Mar 14, 2006)

More pics please.:thumbsup:


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## godzilladom (Sep 3, 2009)

good thread fella
keeping me going until I can get to work on mine.....:bawling:


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## mcinallygsxr (Jan 26, 2009)

great reading


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## riga121280 (May 24, 2009)

damn those seats are killer


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Here are the completed arms (well half of them). There's a front tension arm, rear top (camber) link, and rear traction arm. I replaced the crappy bearings on a couple of them. Fitted new rubber boots to all of the bearings which will hopefully protect them from the worst of the rubbish on the roads. I'm thinking to pack some grease in there to further keep the water out.

Whilst I was mucking about with the arms I decided to respray them, the second hand ones were a tiny bit battered and the paint finish on the new ones was patchy. Originally I was just going to chuck the usual satin black at them. At the last minute I remembered that my shiny Apexi strutbrace was red as was the detailing on the MeisterR shocks. This was enough for my warped mind to decide to paint everything fire engine red. Looks strangely orange in the picture but I think that's my camera's dodgy low light colour reproduction...










So corner weighing, new ride height and alignment set-up is next!

As a little work in progress I have found the solution to my knackered splitter - a new bumper! This fella came up on fleabay for the right price. Needs a fair bit of work to make it right and obviously a proper respray. Of course that means the bumper needs to come off which would be a good excuse to sort out some of the plumbing, especially the (bypassed) re-circulating BOVs and fitting more of the new induction pipework I've got sat on the bench...


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## ChrisIsle (Sep 17, 2009)

Just read the lot from start to finish. Love the retrim! Love the light mods! Love it all. great project buddy. Well done.

Bit of inspiration for me too!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Realised I'd not put any picks up of the finished lights and the new indicators. Eventually I want to put LEDs in the indicators to get rid of the orange reflections but that's a job for another day.

Car is impressively filthy in the pics too.


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## Fuel Performance (Aug 31, 2010)

wicked!!


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## Kadir (Mar 23, 2008)

More pictures of the SE37s please!!


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## sebbe (May 19, 2005)

Love the wheels!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Got the car back on Friday. A few additional items were discovered so I'm sporting a couple of new steering arms and king pins.

A fair bit of time was spent by Simon setting up the car. He used the settings I'd found mixed in with his own knowledge. The corner weighing was interesting, I don't have the figures to hand but the car is much more front heavy than I realised.

Anyway with the ride height raised by 10-20mm all round the car sits better than before. When I took it out for a run the additional ride height was immediately apparent. I when for a run around some of the lovely bumpy back-roads my way. I didn't get any grounding which was a huge improvement, that alone made things worthwhile.

Steering also feels much improved. The car feels shorter and pointier. Quite how this has happened with the car's improved stability I don't know. I'll have to do some further testing but so far the car feels much improved and my suspension work may be at an end.

Gave the car a polish to celebrate and took some pics:


----------



## Kadir (Mar 23, 2008)

That is a fair rise in ride height but as you say, you are enjoying the car's present setup which is what it is all about. As for those wheels; they are awesome!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Kadir said:


> That is a fair rise in ride height but as you say, you are enjoying the car's present setup which is what it is all about. As for those wheels; they are awesome!


Cheers. I am VERY fussy about wheels. It took me forever to find a set which were as close to the OEM weights as possible. They would have been 17s but these were just at the right price and the right time. Still in need of a refurb but with the newly discovered new exhaust requirement I think that one will be moving down the list.

Was very nice to be able to cross off some things from my whiteboard of things to do.

In case anyone is interested I thought I'd post up the final settings for the car:

Weights with driver in car:

Front - L 480kg R 490kg
Rear - L 330kg R 333kg

I've rounded the below to 1 decimal place

Front - Caster L/R 4.0 degrees, Camber L 1 degree R 0.9 degrees
Rear - Camber L/R 1.3 degrees, Toe L/R 1.3

By rough calculations this means that the car is under 1500kgs with an empty tank (maybe 1480-90). I was also suprised by how front heavy the car is. With driver you've got a 59:41 front rear split. It explains why they fit ally bonnets and wings. I'm wondering what weight I can shift backwards or remove.

Thoughts so far are to ditch the pipework for the recirculating DVs. They're bypassed in mine anyway so the pipework is dead weight. I'm thinking about the windows washer tank. Water is pretty heavy and it might free up space for a ducted feed to the airfilters.

I suspect that more weight can be saved by stripping out more of the HICAS system from the front end. I think that'll be a bigger job so back burner for that idea I suspect.

Another though it to replace the stock discs with a two piece alternative. I suspect that if I fit bigger discs (with spacers etc) then the net effect will be no saving but it's a nice thought.


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## markM3 (Jan 7, 2008)

Maybe lose the aircon - compressor & rad must weigh a bit.


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## JapFreak786 (Aug 29, 2003)

re-locate battery to the boot if you haven't already?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

markM3 said:


> Maybe lose the aircon - compressor & rad must weigh a bit.


Can't loose the aircon - I use it too much. I don't want to turn my car into a stripped out track car at all. It's got to fulfill my requirements for a road car and aircon is one of my 'must haves'.


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## godzilladom (Sep 3, 2009)

Cris said:


> Can't loose the aircon - I use it too much. I don't want to turn my car into a stripped out track car at all. It's got to fulfill my requirements for a road car and aircon is one of my 'must haves'.


Fair enough - just to point out your compressor. compressor bracket, belt and rad comes in at around 18KG+.
but like you say - your car needs to be what you want it to be!
mine is TOTALLY stripped and I'm trying to ad some comfort 'back' - aircon would've been nice this summer.:flame:


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

JapFreak786 said:


> re-locate battery to the boot if you haven't already?


Already done I'm afraid.

Thanks for the suggestions though guys :thumbsup:


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## JapFreak786 (Aug 29, 2003)

replace the seats with something more lightweight,and also look at getting polycarbonates to replace the windows on the sides? or look at lightweight doors 

go on a diet and join the gym? lol


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

JapFreak786 said:


> replace the seats with something more lightweight,and also look at getting polycarbonates to replace the windows on the sides? or look at lightweight doors
> 
> go on a diet and join the gym? lol


I don't think that the seats are that heavy really. The recaro I removed was heavier the stock seat which replaced it. A fixed back chair would be lighter but again makes the car away from being a road car.

I have considered poly for the rear side windows. I'm yet to be convinced about how well poly windows last. From what I've read they go cloudy after a year or two. I also think that this would probably save weight from the rear of the car which would help with balance.

Lightweight door skins does seem like it could work. I have some concerns on security but they would probably be a good bit lighter. I guess if painted properly you'd not notice the difference either. Might put that one down for investigation.


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## godzilladom (Sep 3, 2009)

I know the std ally bonnet aint that heavy - but a good qual CF one would be lighter.
I also changed the Cam cover, engine covers for CF..... all adds up.
If you go with an aftermarket FMIC - the Trust ones etc (albeit cost £1200- £1800) will weigh HALF that of a lower brand....

*I swapped my engine for an onion and saved 450KG instantly.*

p.s. - DON'T fit Poly windows - they are a Royal BALL-ACHE!! and especially for the sake of the small rear ones, will save you approximately nothing... I fitted them in 3 of my track cars - but that was because I didn't care how shite they looked.... even a sponge puts swirl mark in 'em.


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## madhouse (Sep 6, 2010)

Great looking car, and the rims are great, even though I have 18" version of those 3spoke Advans myself thats going to get some new paint. Anyway your project gives great inspiration to my own R32.


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## Trelawny'sGTR (Mar 30, 2009)

Very nice looking car mate. :bowdown1:

You said to me a little while ago about getting a grille to go infront of my arc oil cooler. You might not remember, it was a while ago! Where did you get yours? Is it a modified R33 item?

Thanks in advance, Jon.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Trelawny'sGTR said:


> Very nice looking car mate. :bowdown1:
> 
> You said to me a little while ago about getting a grille to go infront of my arc oil cooler. You might not remember, it was a while ago! Where did you get yours? Is it a modified R33 item?
> 
> Thanks in advance, Jon.


Don't think a modded R33 item would fit - not without a lot of modding.

I bought mine from a linksys76 who I think is from Australia. Might be worth a PM his way as I'm pretty sure he makes them.


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## godzilladom (Sep 3, 2009)

Trelawny'sGTR said:


> Very nice looking car mate. :bowdown1:
> 
> You said to me a little while ago about getting a grille to go infront of my arc oil cooler. You might not remember, it was a while ago! Where did you get yours? Is it a modified R33 item?
> 
> Thanks in advance, Jon.


Hi
Sorry to butt in.
Are you one about the grill - as in the 33 style one that replaces the std 32 one??

I bought on for my car from Australia - cost me £96 delivered and £30 sprayed in Gunmetal (Nissan). I fitted it and took it straight off again - so never been anywhere (just not the look I was going for). (besides, my car is off the road, so it wouldn't have gone anywhere anyway LOL!!)

you can have it for £80 delivered
Only problem - is the car is in my dads warehouse and it's difficult for me to get to it as i work all week and it is locked up at the weekend. Just might take me a week or so....


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## Trelawny'sGTR (Mar 30, 2009)

Cheers fellas, I'll look into it. Could be just what I need to cover that oil cooler!

Jon


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## markdett (Sep 8, 2010)

where did you purchase your nismo spats infront of the rear wheels, ive been looking everywhere for them


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## WillRobDon (Jul 29, 2006)

Hi Cris,
Have you relocated the battery to the boot? Thats a few kilos from the front, as per 33 etc. Other than that mate i can't think of much else to move rearward without ditching A/C and the Hicas seloniod.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

markdett said:


> where did you purchase your nismo spats infront of the rear wheels, ive been looking everywhere for them


I got them from a member on here donkeys ago.

I see them on Yahoo Japan all the time and I'm sure other (local) companies do copies.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

willrobdon said:


> Hi Cris,
> Have you relocated the battery to the boot? Thats a few kilos from the front, as per 33 etc. Other than that mate i can't think of much else to move rearward without ditching A/C and the Hicas seloniod.


Super battery already in boot.

I think stripping out as much of the HICAS stuff as possible is probably the best bet. The HICAS is long gone with only the front plumbing left. Whipping out what's left along with the stock recirc DVs should save something. There's so much rendant pipework under there it must be worth a few kilos.


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## WheelExecutives (Oct 6, 2010)

thsoe wheels look great. perfect color


----------



## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Latest update is my project to sort out the clocks. The centre gauges were the first for the chop. Oddly it's a surprisingly difficult to replace the 'normal' centre gauges. I needed a mounting point and a to modify the slot in the car.

I also decided that I wanted to mount the radio in the top slot. When my MFD project gets restarted.

I spent ages trying to manufacture new side brackets but gave up and just made the mounting points for the top slot.

The gauges started out as some fleabay jobbies but once I trial fitted the lighting looked rubbish so I decided to stop buggering about and got s set of Stack gauges. By the way if you fancy the fleabay ones then drop me a message.

Anyway here's the unfitted centre console.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Not really any tangible progress recently. However some nice boxes turned up the other day:









At first glance the tail pipe looks like the usual field gun:









However a glance down the end and you can see the iris baffle which closes down the straight through pipe into a much more restrictive diameter:









This little 'leccy box of tricks controls the operation of the iris. I'm thinking to mount it in the ashtray location:


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## ANDY H (Mar 17, 2005)

now thats a nice pipe!!!!!


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## T04Z GTR (Dec 8, 2008)

HKS EV-R Exhaust... A very rare piece of kit...

I have one myself, which i havnt got around to fitting & playing about with as yet but i plan to scrap the HKS electronics (as its limited to it's functions due to working off RPM/TPS) & control it through my Motec M600 allowing full control over the iris operation...

Si...


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## iosifnur (Sep 3, 2008)

very rare and nice muffler, unfortunately it is discontinued...


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

T04Z GTR said:


> HKS EV-R Exhaust... A very rare piece of kit...
> 
> I have one myself, which i havnt got around to fitting & playing about with as yet but i plan to scrap the HKS electronics (as its limited to it's functions due to working off RPM/TPS) & control it through my Motec M600 allowing full control over the iris operation...
> 
> Si...


Can't see why you couldn't bypass the box and control the iris directly. Motecs have plenty of outputs for this sort of thing.

When I've got it on the car I'll have to make a little video of it in operation.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

After untold time running around on ditchfinders I finally got round to putting some proper tyres on.

Went with Goodyear Eagle F1s in 265/35R18 (which is the correct fitment for the rims rather than the 255/35R18s on their previously). As a little point of interest I thought I'd measure how wide the tyres were. To the eye they look wider than the 255s, more than just 10mm wider:


















The width of the tread is actually more like 270-275mm...

Initial impression are that the car rides much better. The sidewall is admittedly a couple of mm higher but I suspect that the main difference is good tyres vs rubbish ones. We'll see hoe they perform when they're scrubbed in.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Lots going on on the planning front at the moment but little actual progress. My brain is starting to hurt from all of the thoughts about different turbo options and the like...

In the mean time I decided to treat the car to some Bosch wipers. As before they are the beam style items rather that the traditional wipers. Does make me think I need to paint the wiper arms though:

















I will try and pull my finger out and post up a video of the EVR in operation sometime soon.


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## herman (Apr 1, 2007)

*gtr32*

really really top thread mate.lots of really detailed stuff.cheers chris...


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

herman said:


> really really top thread mate.lots of really detailed stuff.cheers chris...


Cheers likewise.

Watch this space. Things are happening behind the scenes and (hopefully) soon to be revealed...


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## markM3 (Jan 7, 2008)

Steel turbos????


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

markM3 said:


> Steel turbos????


I'm not saying anything until I have the items in my hand.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

First new parcel arrived:


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## Fuel Performance (Aug 31, 2010)

nice


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

More presents arrived today:
















Still looking for some decent turbo elbows if anyone has any knocking about.


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## WillRobDon (Jul 29, 2006)

Looking good Cris. How are the wipers. I'm the opposite to you. I've painted the arms and now need new blades! Are the bosch any good? I was also looking at piaa. Also do you have the sizes/part numbers?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

willrobdon said:


> Looking good Cris. How are the wipers. I'm the opposite to you. I've painted the arms and now need new blades! Are the bosch any good? I was also looking at piaa. Also do you have the sizes/part numbers?


Those ones are Bosch (aerotwin retrofit I think they're called). I went for a pack with a 22" and a 19". Ideally I would have gone with 23" and 18" but Bosch don't do that size.

I'm pretty happy with them. The clipping on method is the best of these beam style wipers I've bought. To be fair I've not tried the PIAA.


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## Alex j B (Apr 24, 2004)

willrobdon said:


> Looking good Cris. How are the wipers. I'm the opposite to you. I've painted the arms and now need new blades! Are the bosch any good? I was also looking at piaa. Also do you have the sizes/part numbers?


We imported a '33 gtst a few years ago that already had PIAA wipers fitted and they were amazing, (the wipers themselves were great, but it's teh think layer of silicone they leave on the screen thats a good part), where you'd have normal wipers on constant, these would only be on intermittant, the water just beads up and rolls up the screen, (a really good feature at speed when you get wiper lift).

I will definately be getting PIAA when my cars back on the road.

Alex B


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

As promised here's a little vid of the EVR valve in operation. Hopefully the poor sound quality will give some idea on noise levels:


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## R4VENS (Jan 1, 2009)

niice


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

More goodies have arrived:

























































There are a few other bits and bobs (OEM gasket kit, head restrictor insert) which I've not bothered to take pictures of.

Just need a pair of turbo elbows and stage 1 can start...


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## fourtoes (Feb 27, 2003)

Yay!!!! great stuff Cris!!! love new parts!

bob


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## R4VENS (Jan 1, 2009)

niiiice


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## r32SINGH (Jul 29, 2008)

very nice parts 

ps shouldn't this thread be in the projects section?


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## yohoRB26 (Feb 22, 2011)

nice wheel choice


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

fourtoes said:


> Yay!!!! great stuff Cris!!! love new parts!
> 
> bob


I find it's like Christmas but actually getting stuff you want and not socks or aftershave.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

r32SINGH said:


> very nice parts
> 
> ps shouldn't this thread be in the projects section?


I think that this thread pre-dates the projects section.

If the mods are bothered I'm happy for it to be moved as required.


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## Matt M (Jul 5, 2007)

I love black R32's with gold wheel, they just go so well. Reminds me of the old JPS F1 cars that I loved as a kid.

Nice work Chris


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## nightcrawler (May 7, 2010)

willrobdon said:


> Looking good Cris. How are the wipers. I'm the opposite to you. I've painted the arms and now need new blades! Are the bosch any good? I was also looking at piaa. Also do you have the sizes/part numbers?


piaa silicone wiper blades are very nice. had them before! worth the money! 


@chris

very nice dude! very nice indeed :bowdown1:


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## Marko R1 (Apr 18, 2008)

i really like the way you have reupholstered the seats - looks great!


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## Markturbo (Jan 12, 2011)

Very nice 32 :bowdown1: loving some of the mods


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Pretty much the last of the bits, induction bits from various sources. Satin black of course...









Car was dropped off this morning for the Steve Austin treatment.


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## WillRobDon (Jul 29, 2006)

They're looking good Cris! Looking forward to seeing them on the car.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

willrobdon said:


> They're looking good Cris! Looking forward to seeing them on the car.


Cheers! - Me too


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Last bits arrived - elbows. Pretty much as expected the elbows will needs a little bit of tidying. One is ok but the other has a dodgy bit of matching on one of the collectors.































Got this too which hopefully will tighten up the steering:


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## markdett (Sep 8, 2010)

Very nice, where did you purchase your steering shaft bushing from?


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## r32SINGH (Jul 29, 2008)

markdett said:


> Very nice, where did you purchase your steering shaft bushing from?


they look like driftworks ones 

Stainless steering bush - S13/R32 - Nissan Suspension - Suspension & Steering Driftworks Shop

:thumbsup:


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Correct - expensive for a smallish disc of metal but hardly a common item. Hopefully it'll make the steering a bit more direct. Certainly should improve on a 22 year old rubber bush.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

I couldn't help myself:









If anyone knows where the long metal strips go - answers on a postcard please!


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## fourtoes (Feb 27, 2003)

Inside the chasis rails Cris.

Bob


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## lightspeed (Jul 11, 2002)

Mount the bar to the steering bolts so the brackets are tight on the chassis rails ( tip- slacken off the big allen bolts that hold the brackets on and nip them up when it all fits nice). Mark and drill the joles in the chassis rails for the bolts. Paint the hole edges, allow to dry. Shove the strips up the chassis rails through holes further to the rear of the car then wiggle till the bracket bolts align with the captive nuts. Torque everything up. Job done.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Cheers Bob. I guess the long 'tails' are to stop them sliding away or something.


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## fourtoes (Feb 27, 2003)

As Al said Cris really, the long bits are to help you locate the captive bolts in place to be able to secure the hks under body bars on the chasis rails, as there isn't anywhere for them to naturally to thread into. I've got a set I'm yet to fit!

Bob


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

lightspeed said:


> Mount the bar to the steering bolts so the brackets are tight on the chassis rails ( tip- slacken off the big allen bolts that hold the brackets on and nip them up when it all fits nice). Mark and drill the joles in the chassis rails for the bolts. Paint the hole edges, allow to dry. Shove the strips up the chassis rails through holes further to the rear of the car then wiggle till the bracket bolts align with the captive nuts. Torque everything up. Job done.


Thanks for that. My reply to Bob got stuck in a time warp somewhere - I tired to post it before you wrote the excellent explanation above.

I think I'll give the brace a lick of paint. Now to paint it silver (as it already is) or fire engine red like all the other bits I've bolted on...


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## alternatengine (May 17, 2006)

Loving the car.

Bears (pardon the avatar pun) a striking resemblance to mine.. Also black with 18" Bronze Volks.. CE28's on mine though. I had the same issue with ride height and befor long decided I HAD to wind the TEIN's down a shade.. Looks millions better and made minimal difference to rideability as I never went crazy with it.

Funny you should mention painting the wiper arms as thats my weekend task 

Keep the pics coming... especially of the engine goodies!


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## markM3 (Jan 7, 2008)

Cris,

Got that chassis brace on mine.

If you wantto take a look. 

I even have the instructions.......in Japanese, but I think there are pics too!!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Had a lttle tme over the bank holiday so decided to do a little cosmetic work. The pipework for the HKS BOVs was grubby and covered in gunk. First gave it a clean with degreaser:









Even after the degreaser there was a load of crud on the BOVs:









After pulllng everything apart I decided to follow my tme honoured tradition of panting things satin black. After drying and reassembling I'm happy with the result:









The trumpets could have been painted but somehow it seemed better to give them a polish. Likewise for the chromed end caps. A couple of hours with metal polish removing the rust from the chrome reminded me why I usually just paint things:


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## fourtoes (Feb 27, 2003)

You beauty!!!! 

Nice one cris mate, been away from my car for the hols, hoping to get back to it next week! 
Looking great buddy!

Bob


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Cheers Bob coming from you that's praise indeed. I'd like to think I'm going to end up with a 'lite' version of your mega-refurb.

A thought occurred to me, now the engine's out I can see what my barsteward fierce clutch is:









Looks like I've got an OS Giken twin plate. That would explain why it's like a light switch. On the plus side it should cope with the potential output of the new turbos.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Got a box of bits today:









Will do a proper write up when I get a chance to fit them.


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## fourtoes (Feb 27, 2003)

Now they look interesting!!!!!

Bob


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## Marko R1 (Apr 18, 2008)

Cris said:


> Got a box of bits today:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


where did u get these & are they for the rear tail lights?


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## mambastu (Feb 13, 2002)

I would guess that they're to replace all the standard indicator bulbs and a new flasher unit to suit the LEDs.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

mambastu said:


> I would guess that they're to replace all the standard indicator bulbs and a new flasher unit to suit the LEDs.


Correctamundo, you sir win a goldfish!

I'm not a fan of loading resistors onto LEDs. Seems to somewhat defeat the point of them.

I'm also part way through replacing the bulbs in the A/C controller. Finding T3 sized bulbs wasn't easy but I've found a supplier for them. I'm not sure that they're as good quality as the others I have bought but they are cheap and as long as they are functional I doubt I'll know the difference once they are mounted.

I think I'm catching GTRitis. Now when I find I've got a blown bulb rather than just replace it my brain tells me this is a good opportunity to upgrade all the bulbs to LED....


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## Marko R1 (Apr 18, 2008)

Any opportunity to modify a gtr is a good excuse, and yes, it is sickness HA!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Few painting updates. Decided that the little bellmouths looked silly in bare metal so painted them:









The Apexi elbows were looking a little tired so they had a little refresh too:


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## Marko R1 (Apr 18, 2008)

Have u painted your wipers as yet? If so, what is the oem finish - satin or matt black?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Marko R1 said:


> Have u painted your wipers as yet? If so, what is the oem finish - satin or matt black?


Not done that yet. Have a whole load of exterior painting to do (or rather my local paintshop does) so I might get them done as part of that. I'm sure they'd get a better finish than me and my rattle cans!

Assuming mine are stock then they look satin to me. Might have been gloss once I suppose but they certainly aren't matt.


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## herman (Apr 1, 2007)

*wipers*

i got my wipers done a gloss blk but powdercoated them i think,looks great and really smartens up the appearance,well worth doing in my opinion.:thumbsup:


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

herman said:


> i got my wipers done a gloss blk but powdercoated them i think,looks great and really smartens up the appearance,well worth doing in my opinion.:thumbsup:


Powdercoat is not a bad idea. Should certainly smarten the car up a lot.

Went to see Simon today and he directed me to pics of my engine rebuild. Though I'd repost them here for all to see but credit to Simon at AFR:


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## P3RV3RT (Aug 2, 2005)

Everything seems to be comming on nicely. Keep up the good work


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Another small update. The engine is back in the car and finishing off/sorting out is occuring. Simon seems to have stripped out a load of unnecessary stuff and rerouted other things into better places. That topped off with some paintwork means things are looking pretty good. Can't wait to see the finished article!


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## joe200 (Mar 6, 2010)

love the interior


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## fourtoes (Feb 27, 2003)

That engine looks proper stealth Cris!!!

bob


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

joe200 said:


> love the interior


Thanks for that. There's much more to be done in there but first I need the engine in the car and run in etc...

Watch this space


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

fourtoes said:


> That engine looks proper stealth Cris!!!
> 
> bob


Did I mention that I like to pain things satin black?

I'm going for the Hotblack Desiato design as described by Ford Prefect:

"The reason I'm having so much trouble flying this ship is because it's black. The walls are black, the floor is black, the console is black, the switches are black, the labels are little black letters printed on a black background, and when you press anything, a black light lights up in black to tell you you've done it."

Sort of anti-bling if you will.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

A few more bits in place. Just need to find an HKS oil drain fitting:


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## Robbie J (Jan 8, 2005)

ready for Le Mans 2012?

steath R32, matt black everything including the tyres

if it where a 35 you would need to call it

steath snake def con 12 (i know higher numbers mean less danger but the 35 lot don't)


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## fourtoes (Feb 27, 2003)

Cris said:


> A few more bits in place. Just need to find an HKS oil drain fitting:


Lovely!!!!
:wavey:
bob


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Robbie J said:


> ready for Le Mans 2012?
> 
> steath R32, matt black everything including the tyres
> 
> ...


Good thinking Rob. I think I might go for Midnight Stealth Ninja Super Pointed Stick, has a certain ring to it.

I think to finish things off i might paint the windows black too to finish off the look.

better be finished off and run in for LM2012. I'm trying to get Nik to get his Fairlylardy on the road too for a full compliment of Datsuns.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

fourtoes said:


> Lovely!!!!
> :wavey:
> bob


Cheers mate not up to your and Leo's level of OCD perfection but should look tidier than before. Simon is doing a cracking job.


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## mrdatsunturbo (Feb 18, 2006)

*hks bovs*

Hello there and a very nice thread , but please tell me where you have connected the hoses on the bovs ?? 
The two brass on the top is from plenum ? 
But the two black plastic should go to?
Thanks a lot .


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

It lives!

Mostly done now. Proper oil pressure, which is nice and sounds very smooth at idle.










Even my LED indicator trick worked which I will post in a future update.

I guess I'll have to run it in next.


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## herman (Apr 1, 2007)

that looks great mate,really nice indeed.:thumbsup:


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## WillRobDon (Jul 29, 2006)

Nice work, that engine looks fantastic!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Thank you for the kind comments guys. When it's really properly done I'll post a picture of the finished article with my camera rather than the phone.

In the mean time here's the final part of the LED indicator upgrade:

First off you need some LED bulbs:









Then you need to remove the drivers side lower dash and locate the flasher unit (it's down left of the steering wheel) and replace the stock item with an LED flasher (3 pin variety):









Pop the new bulbs in and you are good to go:









Looks much better in my opinion ad much brighter than incandescent.

One thing to note is that you need all the bulbs to be LED rather than a mixture with an LED flasher. If you want to keep the stock flasher unit you could load the LEDs with resistors but that seems a very bodged way of doing things to my mind.


----------



## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Sorry to those whom are getting bored of this!

Drove the car yesterday for the first time. Took a lot of readjustment after driving modern cars.

I'll have to start thinking about ECUs and fuel systems next!


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## Fuel Performance (Aug 31, 2010)

This was the first Build Thread I ever looked at before buying my first GTR ,when it was only a few pages 

Still Going Strong! Nice


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## Nigel-Power (Dec 16, 2009)

Blimey ! where was this thread hiding :runaway:

Has come a long way Cris. 

You chose the last day of the year to take it for a drive ? lol guess you met the deadline.

:thumbsup:


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Those with long memories will remember that I took the Recaro drivers seat out to fit the retrimmed OEM seats. Well finally got round to updating my Recaro Office Chair with a decent base:










In further developments I found some interior light to swap for LED items. These are the map reading lights. With some searching I found an LED with a 90 degree offset to fire downwards rather than upwards (if you catch my drift):










Fitted one in the holder:










Compared to a normal bulb - all the light goes the right way so the reflector isn't needed:










Colour is a bit odd on that last one. My camera phone doesn't like low light situations!


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## Kadir (Mar 23, 2008)

Office chair is epic!!


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## SPEED MERCHANT (Jun 5, 2006)

I have a recaro I want to make an office chair, where do you get the bases?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

SPEED MERCHANT said:


> I have a recaro I want to make an office chair, where do you get the bases?


Originally I used an Ikea base from one of their cheapo chairs. That base broke, it wasn't wide enough for the Recaro or strong enough.

This one is a standard office chair (had a wide foam padded blue fabric seat/back). It was being thrown out because the passing had gone. Being the pikie that I am I ask if I could take it off their hands.

Worth checking your local free cycle. Whilst you can buy them new anything suitable I found was the best part of £100 which I felt was too much given the nature of the project (told you I was tight).


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## nismoboy (Dec 30, 2010)

Your car is coming along nicely buddy & that recaro seat is brilliant, loving it and I want one now or I might use my old r32 GTR seats make a pair for the gang hut.:thumbsup:


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Got some new bits the other day. Most of the fuelling system sorted just need a bigger fuel pump. New bits could do with a tidy up:


















Guess what comes next...


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Things coming along nicely:










Still working on the fuel rail and injectors. With all this lovely new gear under the bonnet and with everything looking so tidy (again thanks to Simon for his work) I decided to descend into the world of bling. The part I have bought is I think worse than the OEM part in so much as it does nothing better and I think even weighs more:










Watch this space for 21" spinners and a chrome wrap...


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## "Clarkey" (May 21, 2010)

love 32's!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Have got the car back from the paintshop. Decided that after all of the minor stonechips etc and the @~£$&%*£" person who scraped both the front and rear bumpers it was time for some work. After speaking to Jay at Esser it turned out tat the bst thing to was to redo the whole car so it all matched up properly.

Looks very nice now:

























The paint is like a mirror now. Makes the lack of refurb on the wheels stand even further out now...


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## nismoboy (Dec 30, 2010)

Absolutely stunning car you have good taste tho I am bias. Your car just looks like mine except for the wheels buddy. I would Love them wheels in black. I just love black r32 Gtr's. You will need to get them wheels sorted buddy to go with the rest of the car. Thanks for sharing your piccys.:thumbsup:


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

nismoboy said:


> Absolutely stunning car you have good taste tho I am bias. Your car just looks like mine except for the wheels buddy. I would Love them wheels in black. I just love black r32 Gtr's. You will need to get them wheels sorted buddy to go with the rest of the car. Thanks for sharing your piccys.:thumbsup:


Cheers. Black 32s are indeed the best. Not sure when I'll get round to the wheels I'll need something to keep the car off the ground when they are done.

Have to do the wiper arms too and get a new bonnet lip...


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## Austrian GTR (Oct 28, 2008)

Lovely car Cris, well done :clap: :clap: :clap:

Take care of your new paint mate 

Cheers,

Leo


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## alpeag (Dec 1, 2006)

Lookine good there Cris. I bet it will be some trip for you to Le Mans this year!!!


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## Marko R1 (Apr 18, 2008)

what size & offset wheels are u running?


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## nismoboy (Dec 30, 2010)

Have to do the wiper arms too and get a new bonnet lip...[/QUOTE]

LOL mine is the same. No bonnet lip 5 nice holes & the wiper arms are half black other half bare metal looking. If I had your wheels then they would be identical. Your looks better as i love them wheels suits the car well.

Can you not restore them one at a time or in pairs? Borrow other wheels from someone to put her back on the ground while you do or get them refurbished.

Dave:thumbsup:


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Austrian GTR said:


> Lovely car Cris, well done :clap: :clap: :clap:
> 
> Take care of your new paint mate
> 
> ...


From someone with your standards that is praise indeed. Fingers crossed I can keep the paint away from being scratched...


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

alpeag said:


> Lookine good there Cris. I bet it will be some trip for you to Le Mans this year!!!


Hope so. I'm looking forward to the drive down!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Marko R1 said:


> what size & offset wheels are u running?


Wheels are 18x9.5 et12

Tyres are 265/35R18

Fitting is about perfect any more would be too much.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

nismoboy said:


> Have to do the wiper arms too and get a new bonnet lip...


LOL mine is the same. No bonnet lip 5 nice holes & the wiper arms are half black other half bare metal looking. If I had your wheels then they would be identical. Your looks better as i love them wheels suits the car well.

Can you not restore them one at a time or in pairs? Borrow other wheels from someone to put her back on the ground while you do or get them refurbished.

Dave:thumbsup:[/QUOTE]

You must be a man of style and taste then :thumbsup:

Might have the wipers off over the weekend to put some paint on them. I've never understood why this always seems to affect Japanese cars so much.

I think I probably will do the wheels in pairs. Not sure that that will happen this year. At some point I'll actually want to drive the car!!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

New bonnet lip arrived:









Need to get some paint on it and then get it fitted!

I've been working on fitting some new bulbs into my AC. Being me they had to be LED. First set I knackered. Second set were going fine until I tried to fit the front cover on again. It wouldn't fit and I realised that the new bulbs were too long. Final option was a set of SMD units, they fit!










For reference the right hand bulb does NOT fit and the left hand bulb is the SMD unit and DOES fit.


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## JTJUDGE (Nov 21, 2011)

That's a good looking car you have there. What bhp are you going for?


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## nismoboy (Dec 30, 2010)

Yeeeeah now you can cover the 5 holes up on the bonnet. How does it look just in carbon? I was thinking of getting one & leaving it as it is "carbon" on the black bonnet.


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## JTJUDGE (Nov 21, 2011)

Cris said:


> Got a box of bits today:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Baby darleks


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## nismoboy (Dec 30, 2010)

JTJUDGE said:


> Baby darleks


Lol they do as well look like them.:chuckle:


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

JTJUDGE said:


> That's a good looking car you have there. What bhp are you going for?


Not really bothered. The turbos might do 600 but I'd guess I'll see less than that. Certainly with the stock cams.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

nismoboy said:


> Yeeeeah now you can cover the 5 holes up on the bonnet. How does it look just in carbon? I was thinking of getting one & leaving it as it is "carbon" on the black bonnet.


I'll see if I can get a picture for you. I'm not a fan of unpainted carbon weave on spoilers etc. I'm also vaguely concerned about UV damage.

PS I'll be flogging the old lip soon. It's a genuine Nismo item but is a touch warped and the mounting bolts have rusted away. I had a chat to my painter and he was reasonably keen to refit it if I could straighten it out etc. I wasn't too comfortable with that so...


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## nismoboy (Dec 30, 2010)

Cris said:


> I'll see if I can get a picture for you. I'm not a fan of unpainted carbon weave on spoilers etc. I'm also vaguely concerned about UV damage.


Superb cris nice to see a picture of it on the gorgeous black 32 of yours grrrrrr LOL


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## GTR H (Jan 6, 2012)

hey mate love your car!!!! just wondering i wanna spray my headlight surrounds black like you have but not really interested in changing my bulbs.If i spray the chrome surrounds gloss black will it affect my lights brightness etc at night or do the surrounds not do that much anyway??? also did you use high temp paint? and how did you glue the glass back on what did you use? 

thanks heaps for any info.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

GTR H said:


> hey mate love your car!!!! just wondering i wanna spray my headlight surrounds black like you have but not really interested in changing my bulbs.If i spray the chrome surrounds gloss black will it affect my lights brightness etc at night or do the surrounds not do that much anyway??? also did you use high temp paint? and how did you glue the glass back on what did you use?
> 
> thanks heaps for any info.


Depends on whether you have early our late model lights. Either way if you follow my instructions on how to open up the headlight in the oven etc you will be able to get at the Bezels. I sanded mine primed them then painted with Plastikote Super satin black. If you were feeling push you could have them done in 732 black (or whatever colour your car is). Matt black would also work well.

If you have early model lights (like mine) then there is a metal sleeve which clips to the Bezel I assume to act as a reflector. For my project I ditched the sleeve though if your keeping the OEM projectors you might want to replace it when you've painted the Bezels.

Late model lights don't have the sleeve so no bother there.

One consideration - the sidelights use the Bezel as a reflector (unlike the main beam which has its own reflector). If you are using normal incandescent side lights then the reflector it's a good idea so I would recommend keeping it shiny when you paint the Bezels. On that front there is a plastic lense in front of the sidelight. You might warp it when you put the light unit in the oven. Be very careful if you are keeping the lenses with the oven temp. Perhaps start on a lower temp than I suggest to be safe.

I think that should help shout if you need more info.


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## GTR H (Jan 6, 2012)

Cris said:


> Depends on whether you have early our late model lights. Either way if you follow my instructions on how to open up the headlight in the oven etc you will be able to get at the Bezels. I sanded mine primed them then painted with Plastikote Super satin black. If you were feeling push you could have them done in 732 black (or whatever colour your car is). Matt black would also work well.
> 
> If you have early model lights (like mine) then there is a metal sleeve which clips to the Bezel I assume to act as a reflector. For my project I ditched the sleeve though if your keeping the OEM projectors you might want to replace it when you've painted the Bezels.
> 
> ...


Thanks heaps mate it does help me heaps !!!!!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

nismoboy said:


> Superb cris nice to see a picture of it on the gorgeous black 32 of yours grrrrrr LOL


Here's a mock up of the lip on the car. Not the best shot, the car is very dusty too!










After doing this I'm definitely getting it painted!

Not 100% sure how to attach it. I'll have to ask the painter if his sticky tape stuff will be man enough for the job.


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## nismoboy (Dec 30, 2010)

Yeah cris I can see where your coming from now. I would paint also it as it just looks out of place LOL prob need something abit stronger than double sided tape dude as you prob find it would rip of or lift under hard acceleration. Looking good though nice once its painted.

Dave:thumbsup:


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Update time. Finished cleaning and painting the injectors and fuel rail:









Another item for the same treatment was the Nismo FPR:

















As I mentioned before I decided that the scabby old wiper arms were letting the side down a bit so had them off and repainted them:

















Finally whilst poking around saw that the numberplate bracket was a bit rusty. So off it came for a derusting an repainting. I think I probably need to get out more:


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## fourtoes (Feb 27, 2003)

Nice work Cris!!!
What paint are you using on the fuel parts? Looks tip top!

Bob


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## nismoboy (Dec 30, 2010)

A few more jobs of the list now. Next the wheels & the front grill lol. You have done a amazing job on them parts bud looking good coming along nicely bro:thumbsup:


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

fourtoes said:


> Nice work Cris!!!
> What paint are you using on the fuel parts? Looks tip top!
> 
> Bob


It's rattle tins. My compressor is knackered and I cannot be bothered to fix it. To be fair I'd be using rattle tins anyway most likely. Small stuff with rough edges is quite easy to paint with tins in small batches.

Kit wise I'm sanding the items down with wire brushes/wheels then paper. After that comes the degreaser/solvent cleaner. Then primer, I use Plastikote primer, usually grey. Then topcoat which is usually Plastikote Super Satin Black.

On the numberplate bracket I chucked a load of Krust rust treatment. Was going to Hammerite it but found I had some Halfords rattle tin Satin Black so used that instead (with the Plastikote primer). Seems to have come out OK.

Because the wipers were smoother I had to rub those back to bare metal which was a bit of a bugger.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

nismoboy said:


> A few more jobs of the list now. Next the wheels & the front grill lol. You have done a amazing job on them parts bud looking good coming along nicely bro:thumbsup:


Lip spoiler is next.

I think I'll leave the wheels until next winter. I've enough to catch up with now I've got a fuel pump and ECU.

At some point I might even drive the thing!


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## alpeag (Dec 1, 2006)

looking good mate, but I think you need to drive the car more!!


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## Marko R1 (Apr 18, 2008)

I also painted my wipers but I removed the old paint with multiple layers of paint stripper. Now they look like new.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Discovered that I'd killed my battery by discharging it about ten too many times. Obviously this means I can fit a bigger one so a 100AH unit has gone in. Has circa 900 cold cracking amps which seems to run the starter nicely!

As a shakedown test/running in journey drive down to Somerset to see the inlaws. Murder keeping to the rev limit and varying the rpm so as not to glaze the bores.

Car worked very well. I'm trying 2 Barr in the tyres to see if I can live with the sidewall flex. Ok so far...

Car is looking good:









Bonnet lip spoiler should be fitted next week too.


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## Marko R1 (Apr 18, 2008)

It looks eviiiiil...


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## fourtoes (Feb 27, 2003)

Should pop by Cris next time you go to Somerset if your passing Wiltshire.:smokin:
Would love to see you n the car.

Bobster


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Marko R1 said:


> It looks eviiiiil...


It is pretty black. Probably because some numpty keeps painting bits of it satin black...


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

fourtoes said:


> Should pop by Cris next time you go to Somerset if your passing Wiltshire.:smokin:
> Would love to see you n the car.
> 
> Bobster


Will be traveling up the A303 tomorrow evening...


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

First update in a while. A while back bought some new brakes:

















I'm planning to get the calipers reburbished and replace the nasty steel beels with nice alloy items.

Below are some dmineions of the brackets for those whom are interested.

Thickness of the bracket:









Total high of the bracket:









Total width of the bracket:









Thickness of the bell:









I'll have to remove the bracket to get more dimensions but it's too late for that tonight.


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## Vihis (Jan 1, 2008)

Fourtoes does the refurbishment service for the F50's well


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## fourtoes (Feb 27, 2003)

Vihis said:


> Fourtoes does the refurbishment service for the F50's well


Cheers buddy.
:thumbsup:
Cris, here's a sneaky peak view of Etienne's r34 brembo's we've refurbed to match Cusco blue.
Not the cheapest thing to do but defo worth while, (all seals replaced with new stoptech items etc) professionally stripped, masked and vapour blasted to protect hard anodising in the bores.
Will get some pics up on his build thread once they're rebuilt next week.

Bobster


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## JTJUDGE (Nov 21, 2011)

Cris said:


> Bonnet lip spoiler should be fitted next week too.


 smallest house in the uk!

Great car by the way. I will one day own one of these but not until I get a garage for it as well and a 2nd car. Promotion I think needs to come first.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Those are very pretty Bob. PM winging your way.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Lots of stuff happening but I've no time to actually do it yet, grrrrrr.

Just ordered some new faces for my dials. The hyper astute will notice the special mod:


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## Marko R1 (Apr 18, 2008)

Oil pressure has been switched to battery voltage


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Marko R1 said:


> Oil pressure has been switched to battery voltage


You win a goldfish sir! Very quick observation skills.


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## Marko R1 (Apr 18, 2008)

Thank you sir


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Dials have arrived. Looks like I've got a weekend job. Now Christmas shopping or taking the dash apart...


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## WillRobDon (Jul 29, 2006)

Did you got those custom made? Always found the battery gauge quiet useful.


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## Marko R1 (Apr 18, 2008)

Xmas shopping is over rated, decision should be easy 
I have a battery gauge in my centre triple cluster
..don't u guys have the same?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

willrobdon said:


> Did you got those custom made? Always found the battery gauge quiet useful.


Metal Monkey made them up for me. Will have more detail when I've gotten round to fitting them. I'm thinking LED bulbs, again.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Marko R1 said:


> Xmas shopping is over rated, decision should be easy
> I have a battery gauge in my centre triple cluster
> ..don't u guys have the same?


Centre gauges have already been replaced:









I find the battery gauge useful so wanted to reinstate it.


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## Marko R1 (Apr 18, 2008)

Right, makes sense


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

clocks have now been swapped over. Very impressed with the finish. Looks oem which is entirely what I was aiming for. Big thanks to Tim figure the swap of the white dials. Will get them in the post as soon as thepost office opens again.

Can't wait to see how it looks once I've got some led bulbs. Hopefully will match the Stack gauges.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Step one of new projectors done. Bracket prepped and smoothed:


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## kot (Jan 19, 2013)

nice car !!!


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## Godzilla1989 (Jan 7, 2013)

I must get those gauges!


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## nismo1118 (Dec 7, 2005)

Not sure if I missed it but where did you get the gauge faces from?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

nismo1118 said:


> Not sure if I missed it but where did you get the gauge faces from?


Got them from metal monkey - New Page 1

Good service.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Bob has been a busy boy and sent me over some updates on the brakes:

























Powder coating the callipers next!


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## WillRobDon (Jul 29, 2006)

Ah so they're yours! Very smart!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Update on my refreshed dials with new faces, white needles, swapped oil pressure for voltmeter and MPH markings:









I've also replaced the bulbs with LEDs:


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## CSB (Nov 15, 2007)

The led cluster conversion is definitely on my things to do list. Makes a great difference. Have you got a write up or is it simple to do?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

CSB said:


> The led cluster conversion is definitely on my things to do list. Makes a great difference. Have you got a write up or is it simple to do?


Certainly not hard. There are already a few guides about removing the dash which is pretty much the size of it.

Beyond that you are looking at the usual led stuff like buying bulbs to match the colour of the thing you are lighting up and testing it before screwing it together. had to swap half of my bulbs around to get them to light up.


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## AlexJ (Apr 3, 2003)

Those dials are smashing, I'm guessing they just replace the normal 180kmh dials, what happens when you go past the factory 180kmh max? Wonder if the speedo remains accurate when it's wound all the way round?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

AlexJ said:


> Those dials are smashing, I'm guessing they just replace the normal 180kmh dials, what happens when you go past the factory 180kmh max? Wonder if the speedo remains accurate when it's wound all the way round?


Correct they are early model r32 clocks with a mph over lay. The odometer and trip still read in kms. I've not had the factory speed limiter for years (it's ecu based). Clocks certainly read past 180kph and (in off road conditions you understand) I can confirm reads round to 140/150mph. I cannot see myself going much faster than that so I think they should be ok. Given the cost and work to get where I currently an I'd be tempted to build a full dash with stack gauges if I were to do it again.


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## rogerdavis (Feb 16, 2008)

What size brakes are you going for and which calipers?


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## keynex (Jan 10, 2013)

Nice car, like the cusco blue brembos


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

rogerdavis said:


> What size brakes are you going for and which calipers?


As per the pics a little while back they are Brembo GT calipers on 355 discs (Alcon I think). If you like the look of them have a word with Bob and he'll make up something similar for you.

I think that they'll meet my requirements nicely. I suspect that stock R33 Brembos would probably be enough for me too but given the price they go for I think my solution is better!


----------



## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

keynex said:


> Nice car, like the cusco blue brembos


Those aren't mine. They will be a different colour.


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## rogerdavis (Feb 16, 2008)

I just dont know what to do regarding brakes.. Would love the R35 Brembos, but thats not an easy mod messing around with new brackets, drum liner for the rear and needing TE37's or similar.


----------



## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

rogerdavis said:


> I just dont know what to do regarding brakes.. Would love the R35 Brembos, but thats not an easy mod messing around with new brackets, drum liner for the rear and needing TE37's or similar.


Sounds like over kill to me. Better off the R34/350z Brembos or if you want something bigger then the Akebono (370Z) kit.


----------



## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Was having a fiddle round with the car getting it ready for its new gearbox and I had a look at the metal ring which surrounds the rubbers around the gearstick. It's in a bit of a state:









Now I know it's just surface rust and will take so long to be a problem that it's not worth bothering with (has done OK for nearly 24 years so far) but I had to de-rust it and then paint it. Pointless really and has just added unnecessary weight to the car:









Also got a short shift kit:









Will have to see if I like it. Over the past weeks/months/years I have been acquiring various braces for the car. I don't like rollcages but this seems about as close as I can get. Fingers crossed they will stiffen up things. Hopefully with the steer-rack brace and the tension arm brace steering feel will be marginally improved again:


----------



## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Front toplinks are shot so time for a new direction. Hopefully these will be a little more sturdy:


----------



## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Minor update, after much hassle front calipers now sorted out:


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## fourtoes (Feb 27, 2003)

:clap:
Bob


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## FRRACER (Jun 23, 2013)

Cris said:


> Those with long memories will remember that I took the Recaro drivers seat out to fit the retrimmed OEM seats. Well finally got round to updating my Recaro Office Chair with a decent base:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Trying to find out what kind of LED bulb this is any ideas on part number?


----------



## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

FRRACER said:


> Trying to find out what kind of LED bulb this is any ideas on part number?


Weird my first reply has disappeared.

Anyway those are I believe BA9S:









Even though they are 1W LEDs they don;t produce as much light as the OWM bulbs. Were I to do the job again I might be tempted to use something like this:


----------



## FRRACER (Jun 23, 2013)

Oh well I will stick to the dash leds for now


----------



## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

New rear discs - should help balance out the fronts:


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## cobrAA (Jun 1, 2008)

cris, how did you manage to change the dial on the cluster ?? I mean..if you swap the dial, you have to play with the electronic because the needle would still be showing the previous output. do you get what I mean lol ? Changing the dial I understand where you got it but the needle to show the voltage, you need to change the output un the board ( i guess) to show the voltage instead of temp ?


----------



## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

cobrAA said:


> cris, how did you manage to change the dial on the cluster ?? I mean..if you swap the dial, you have to play with the electronic because the needle would still be showing the previous output. do you get what I mean lol ? Changing the dial I understand where you got it but the needle to show the voltage, you need to change the output un the board ( i guess) to show the voltage instead of temp ?


Behind each dial face is a small electric motor type assembly. It screws into the PCB at the back. The screws terminate in the PCB and are used to carry the apporpriate signals through to the motor assembly.

I have some pictures somewhere which are much easier to understand. I'll post them when I find them.

To affect the changeover you'd need the dash out and the centre guages out. Take the faces off the centre guages and remove the stepper motor from behind the voltmeter. Then remove the stepper motor from the gauge on the dash you wish to replace (in my case oil pressure). Put the new motor in (from the centre gauges). Wiring wise you might have to repurpose the screw holes to bypass the PCB. I was able top re-use the negative without change I think and took a fly lead from the appropriate 'postive' connection in the harness (centre guages).


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## fourtoes (Feb 27, 2003)

*Quick update for Cris.*

Rear 350z brake brackets are back and hot off the CNC machine Cris!
Turned out great!
Should be able to get all your stuff back to you now when I have a spare 15 mins to safely package all your booty up!
:clap:













Hope your like them Cris bud.
:thumbsup:
bob


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Bob - that looks great!

I suspect that this will end up being one of the best rear brake set-ups without spending eventy million £. I'm sure the smart people will be contacting you in due course.

Thanks again mate.


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## AlexJ (Apr 3, 2003)

Are they 350z calipers and discs or just 350z discs with standard r33 brembo calipers?


----------



## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

AlexJ said:


> Are they 350z calipers and discs or just 350z discs with standard r33 brembo calipers?


Calipers are 350Z (essentially the same as R33/34 but with a different mount for the larger disc). I cannot see any easy way to fit a bigger rear caliper without getting into lots of cost and weight (and maybe even changed the master cylinder split).

Discs are 370Z.

The 350z rear discs use a different sized (larger) handbrake drum. I couldn't be bothered with that so 370Z seemed a better idea. The additional diameter should be worthwhile too.


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## AlexJ (Apr 3, 2003)

Cris said:


> Calipers are 350Z (essentially the same as R33/34 but with a different mount for the larger disc). I cannot see any easy way to fit a bigger rear caliper without getting into lots of cost and weight (and maybe even changed the master cylinder split).
> 
> Discs are 370Z.
> 
> The 350z rear discs use a different sized (larger) handbrake drum. I couldn't be bothered with that so 370Z seemed a better idea. The additional diameter should be worthwhile too.


So its the 370z 332mm(?) rear disc, with the same handbrake drum size as the R32/3/4 and the caliper is a rear brembo off a 350z (was that standard in the uk or only a "GT" option).

Good value upgrade. I have r33 brembo rears at the moment and they seem to be doing ok on the track, but it's nice to have a cost effect upgrade available.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

AlexJ said:


> So its the 370z 332mm(?) rear disc, with the same handbrake drum size as the R32/3/4 and the caliper is a rear brembo off a 350z (was that standard in the uk or only a "GT" option).
> 
> Good value upgrade. I have r33 brembo rears at the moment and they seem to be doing ok on the track, but it's nice to have a cost effect upgrade available.


It might be that the base model 370Z discs are 332mm - I'm not sure.

The discs I have are the 350mm units which came in the 'sport' 370Z with Akebono calipers.

Weight aside the extra 20% odd diameter seemed a worthwhile upgrade. With the new fronts being so big I wanted to maintain the balance across the car too.

I suspect that even the stock R32 Sumitomos might have done the job at the back with regards to heat etc but still would have the balance issue. These puppies (with the Brembo 2 pots) have a larger pad area, stiffer caliper (I assume), a thicker disc (more heat capacity) and a larger diameter disc (more heat capacity, more surface area and more mechanical advantage).

As an R33 Brembo owner you'd need a different bracket (which I'm sure Bob could action for you) but otherwise everything else would be the same.

Non Brembo Skylines should be able to bolt this kind of set-up straight on. 350Z rear calipers are pretty cheap too. You could buy OEM discs to bring the cost down too. I doubt my fancy slotted items will actually bring any tangible benefits but they look nice!

Finally AFAIK only the 350Z GT had Brembos but they seem to make up a fair proportion of the 350Zs out there so calipers are cheap. Certainly a lot cheaper than Skyline Brembos!


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## AlexJ (Apr 3, 2003)

It's nice that Bob is willing to take the time to get these sort of things manufactured, we need more of this sort of thing going on. I think a lot of people would just see it as a hassle when they could just sell you a £2k brake kit.

BTW I've just ordered a set of dial faces like the ones you have from metal monkey. Nice people


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

AlexJ said:


> It's nice that Bob is willing to take the time to get these sort of things manufactured, we need more of this sort of thing going on. I think a lot of people would just see it as a hassle when they could just sell you a £2k brake kit.
> 
> BTW I've just ordered a set of dial faces like the ones you have from metal monkey. Nice people


Good man. If you are going down the route of LED bulbs you might want an extra diffuser behind the clocks. The LEDs are much brighter than the normal bulbs and I think you might find them too bright. Certainly worth test fitting to see I'd suggest.

As I don't think that there is a current pic here is the engine bay as is:


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Had the car out yesterday for a run as the weather was nice. Stopped outside the supermarket to grab a few bits. Being worried about mouthbreahters dinging the car I did my best to find a quiet spot:









Bob sent me over the brake parts the other day and I've finally gotten around to getting all the bits together to see where I am.

First job was to replace the steel bells with the lovely new ali ones:









The new ones are a fair bit lighter:

















The front disk is about 7.5kg. Will be interesting to see what the old ones weigh when I remove them.









Front caliper with pads and brackets is 5kg which seems very light.

















Rear caliper is a bit lighter, with brackets but not pads:

















All in I'm pretty happy with things:









Shout out to Chris Wilson for the pads. I cannot wait to see how they perform.

As ever I have some spares now with extra brackets, the spare bells etc. However I think that the rear Brembos need some decals to match the fronts and I need new pins for the rears. Not had any joy findthem them though! If you know where I can source them let me know.


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## CSB (Nov 15, 2007)

Looking very very smart. Is it 330mm all round? You can pick up decals from ebay and the pins should be easy to make yourself? What pads did you go for?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

CSB said:


> Looking very very smart. Is it 330mm all round? You can pick up decals from ebay and the pins should be easy to make yourself? What pads did you go for?


Fronts are 355mm, rears 350mm so somewhat bigger than the stock 300/298 set-up. Calipers are much larger too with more pad area.

Not sure I could tackle making up pins. Someone must sell them somewhere and for the sake of a few ££ I'd rather not risk a homemade set-up.

I have been on ebay hunting decals already. Seem to be cheap enough.

Pads are Chris' special secret formula!


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## lightspeed (Jul 11, 2002)

Pins, you can buy a kit from Nissan with pins, clips and spring. 

I bought some from RB a few years back.


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## fourtoes (Feb 27, 2003)

Looks brilliant Cris really does!
So good to see all of the parts come together after all your hard work.
Let me have a look around and see if I can find the name of the company I got my new f50 Brembo pins from for you. I would have ordered some but assumed you still had them at home. 
Should be able to sort you out.
If you need a good source of stu Kees let me know too.
Can wait to hear how these bad boys stop your 32!
:thumbsup:
Bob


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

fourtoes said:


> Looks brilliant Cris really does!
> So good to see all of the parts come together after all your hard work.
> Let me have a look around and see if I can find the name of the company I got my new f50 Brembo pins from for you. I would have ordered some but assumed you still had them at home.
> Should be able to sort you out.
> ...


Cheers Bob. I guess you've never seen it all together.

If you do happen to have a contact for the pins it'd be much appreciated. I don't fancy going to Nissan parts department and explaining what I want. I can just see the guy sucking his teeth and asking what my chassis number is...

Finersc crossed it'll all work out to address the deficiencies in the stock set-up. When it's done the only bits of the OEM system wil be the foot pedal, handbrake and the fixed lines.


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## fourtoes (Feb 27, 2003)

Cris said:


> Cheers Bob. I guess you've never seen it all together.
> 
> If you do happen to have a contact for the pins it'd be much appreciated. I don't fancy going to Nissan parts department and explaining what I want. I can just see the guy sucking his teeth and asking what my chassis number is...
> 
> Finersc crossed it'll all work out to address the deficiencies in the stock set-up. When it's done the only bits of the OEM system wil be the foot pedal, handbrake and the fixed lines.


Try this one Cris:-
Mode Performance Brembo
01327855999
Brake Caliper Specialists
(who you know but they can get spares too) 01159722668

I'll keep thingking/looking bud.
:thumbsup:
bob


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

To add for those interested the new rear disc is just shy of 9kg. So that ali bell does make a difference given that the rears are a touch smaller diameter and about a 1/3 thinner.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Made some progress today with my new headlights. Have the new posh projector mounted:









Need to do the other side and some painting of the bezels and glass as they are looking a little worse for wear. Then onto my cunning plan for main beam.


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## nightcrawler (May 7, 2010)

cris great brake setup you have. i might go this route someday. hope you dont mind sharing the details. sorry for being stupid but are the calipers from 33/34?

thanks buddy


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

nightcrawler said:


> cris great brake setup you have. i might go this route someday. hope you dont mind sharing the details. sorry for being stupid but are the calipers from 33/34?
> 
> thanks buddy


No bother sharing details. You might want to speak with Bob if you want to go ahead of course.

Front calipers are the Brembo 'F50'. Discs are 355mm Alcon I think though you could go with any of the big brands - they all seem to do something in this size.

Rear calipers are 350z Brembo. Discs are 370Z (Akebono/Sport).

FYI you can buy new 350z calipers for very little (fronts are about £150 each with VAT, rears are £140 each with VAT) does make the email sellers wanting £600 for a knackered set a bit of a joke. If you do want to go with 350z Brembos they are not a direct fit some brackets would be required.

The difficult part is sourcing the F50 calipers. They are a size up from the items on the R33/34/350Z but an aftermarket caliper so only available as part of a kit (normally). I think that the Stoptech ST40 calipers are dimensionally identical but I didn't want to g down that route.

In retrospect I think that the best/most cost effective upgrade to an R32 would be a master cylinder upgrade (R33/34/Z32/Stagea/etc) and the Akebono kit from the states. 

I don't endorse this supplier but the cost for this kit is roughly what other kits cost for just a front/rear kit - Akebono Nissan 300ZX Front & Rear 14 Inch Big Brake Kit 90-96 Z32 - Nissan performance parts. I'd be temped by the two piece discs to make the weight more reasonable.

FWIW I looked at running the larger late model R34 rear discs (322mm I think) but they are very difficult to source. 350Z has very similar discs (same diameter etc) but the handbrake 'basket' is larger. I don't like the idea of welding in iron rings etc. 370z rear discs however use the same handbrake size so are a bolt on.


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## nightcrawler (May 7, 2010)

hi cris bud thanks for the info.

i already have the 34 calipers fronts and rears on mine so just need the brackets and discs. ill speak to mr.blue at some point but not now as im having a remap next month fingerscrossed.

great build you have. keep it coming buddy ::bowdown1:




Cris said:


> No bother sharing details. You might want to speak with Bob if you want to go ahead of course.
> 
> Front calipers are the Brembo 'F50'. Discs are 355mm Alcon I think though you could go with any of the big brands - they all seem to do something in this size.
> 
> ...


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## R33zilla (Apr 12, 2012)

Those brembo from an R33 gtr by any chance?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

R33zilla said:


> Those brembo from an R33 gtr by any chance?


Thanks for the interest.

Nope brakes are not R33 at all. The post above yours explains the set-up.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Brakes are on. Some rubbish pics for now - 

















First impressions are I could could go down a wheel size...


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## CSB (Nov 15, 2007)

How does the performance compare to standard cris? Can't wait to bleed mine with motul and pagid blues all around.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

CSB said:


> How does the performance compare to standard cris? Can't wait to bleed mine with motul and pagid blues all around.


I'll tell you when I've bedded them in. So far though the pedal travel is longer but not massive.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Don't think that this pass will ever be removed!


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## alpeag (Dec 1, 2006)

#jealous!!!


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## SimonF27 (May 14, 2007)

I have one of those too:flame:

Be careful it doesn't discolour in sunlight like the camping passes...


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

For those intersted in all thins brakes my OEM (worn) calipers and discs weigh:

Front discs - 8kg
Rear discs - 6kg

Front caliper - 3.8kg
Rear caliper - 2.0kg

So my new front discs are lighter than OEM. The front calipers are heavier but the net additional weight is around 700g which I'm very happy with.

Rear calipers are perhaps a touch lighter but the discs are much heavier. Two peice rears are pretty expensive and the bext I can see are still 6.8-7.4kg range. I think I'll leave that one for another day.


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## AlexJ (Apr 3, 2003)

I may have missed it somewhere in the thread, but what ecu are you running Chris?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

AlexJ said:


> I may have missed it somewhere in the thread, but what ecu are you running Chris?


Link G4 plug-in


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## FRRACER (Jun 23, 2013)

Where did you get the chassis bracing kit from?


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## AlexJ (Apr 3, 2003)

Cris said:


> Link G4 plug-in


Ah yes, it is the no brainer really isn't. 

I only ask as way back when I remembered you mentioned VEMS and I recently ordered one for my 964 and I was going to say pop over and have a look. Tbh if Link did a PnP with a good base map for the 964 I'd have one, the G4 is better than the VEMS in many ways and better UK support. Only things in favour of the VEMS are built in knock control and price.

I notice from you sig that your wheels might be for sale, I need a second set, how much were you thinking?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

FRRACER said:


> Where did you get the chassis bracing kit from?


Lots of places. I've been buying the Kansai braces (silver ones) from various sources for a couple of years. The Ultra braces i bought direct from Ultra.

Even got some Beatrush/Laile sill reinforcers coming. Hopefully the end result will be significantly stiffer chassis without the bother of a roll cage. We will see.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

AlexJ said:


> Ah yes, it is the no brainer really isn't.
> 
> I only ask as way back when I remembered you mentioned VEMS and I recently ordered one for my 964 and I was going to say pop over and have a look. Tbh if Link did a PnP with a good base map for the 964 I'd have one, the G4 is better than the VEMS in many ways and better UK support. Only things in favour of the VEMS are built in knock control and price.
> 
> I notice from you sig that your wheels might be for sale, I need a second set, how much were you thinking?


My original mapper put me off VEMS. In retrospect I'm not sure that that was the right decision.

I'll PM you about the wheels.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Decided that now was (finally) the time to get rid of the black window tinting crap on the rear/side windows. On the rear window particularly the stuff had rippled up and made vision almost impossible (not that it was much with the heavy tint anyway). Paid a garage to start the job and finished (sort of) it myself.

Removing the stuff was not the nicest expereince of my life. There isa layer of platic film over the 'tint' which is some tacky black goop. Under than is the glue to hold the lot on the window.

If you are lucky when you peel the film off the black 'tint' comes with it.

I found that the best method was to spray the film with solvent cleaner and then use a razor blade (various craft knives) to get under the edge and then lift up the film. Of course it tears into little pieces...

Once the film is off the solvent cleaner is pretty good at removing the 'tint' stuff. Again razor blade is the thing. The solvent cleaner isn't up to much on the glue though. I found Autoglym window cleaner the best to to get rid of that. Again spray a load on and use the razor to remove it.

Sounds easy and generally it is. The problem is thge rear screen in the corners near the parcel shelf where you've little room to work with. I'm not completely done so more work is needed on another day to get the last few areas but it's mostly there:


















The residue:









Moral of the story is remove the stuff ASAP!


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## Whitewheels (Nov 12, 2003)

Did the same on mine a couple of years ago. Didn't like it either but worth it


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## nightcrawler (May 7, 2010)

Cris buddy did you try using a steamer? thats what i used when i removed mine. very easy in less than 5mins hehe. no residue left =)

good job anyway! i can see you reflection from the window!!! =)

edit: can you post some pics of the whole car? looks beaut!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Whitewheels said:


> Did the same on mine a couple of years ago. Didn't like it either but worth it


If I ever buy a car with tints again they are coming off as soon as I buy it. FIngers crossed it's easier when still reasonably 'fresh'.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

nightcrawler said:


> Cris buddy did you try using a steamer? thats what i used when i removed mine. very easy in less than 5mins hehe. no residue left =)
> 
> good job anyway! i can see you reflection from the window!!! =)
> 
> edit: can you post some pics of the whole car? looks beaut!


Didn't try a steamer - I don't have one to try. If I ever do this again I'll get one!

Plenty of pics of me floating about. I have to be a little careful though if you look at them too long you might start to doubt your life choices :chuckle:

I don;t really take many pictures of the car. Here are a couple of older pics, both before the tint removal and one before the brakes had been fitted:


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## nightcrawler (May 7, 2010)

^^^ wow thats beauty Cris! almost similar to mine =)


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

nightcrawler said:


> ^^^ wow thats beauty Cris! almost similar to mine =)


If you've got a black R32 you are a clever man indeed :bowdown1:

Wheels will be changing soon. I just need to decide on what colour. Might go for Bronze again but I'm thinking some sort of dark grey might be on the agenda...


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Some progress today. Decided it was hih time to fit the front wing braces:


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## Marko R1 (Apr 18, 2008)

What size and offset wheels are u running?
265 tyres?


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## Marko R1 (Apr 18, 2008)

Did u also need to roll the rear guards or did u get away with it due to height?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

As per my (current) sig the wheels are 18x9.5 ET12, tyres are 265/35R18.

I had the rear arches rolled that you might not need to with a touch more camber. I want to step down to a 255 tyre on a 9" rim to make life easier (and lower drag etc).

As an aside I think that the Goodyears are a 'wide' 265 fitting. As you'll see earlier in the thread they are some 20mm wider than the previous 255s...


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## Marko R1 (Apr 18, 2008)

Ok cool. Yeah your offset makes it more ideal for an r33 or r34...most ideal for a r32 is +20 to +25


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Marko R1 said:


> Ok cool. Yeah your offset makes it more ideal for an r33 or r34...most ideal for a r32 is +20 to +25


I think that the tyres are more to blame. They are very wide for 265s. Didn't have any issues when it was on 255s.

We will see when I get the 17s sorted out.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Did a little work on my headlight upgrade. I wasn't happy with my original bi-xenon projectors so bought some new headlights (late model H1) and modded them. Similar project but for the projectors being Morimoto:
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/1a8932787757a8ae4cbc8144a20b336f/m/i/mini_h1_6.0_-_1.jpg

Mounting wise same idea by cutting off the OEM projector lense and then manufacturing two plates to adapt the OEM fitting onto the new projector:

























I used some tubual spacers to make the new projector sit far enough away from the adjuster screws to allow for their operation:









Job done really at that point. Spent a little time painting the bezels black with Plastidip to get a nice finish and having a brainwave about how the OEM black coating always wears off the top/bottom/sides of the glass I decided to paint the insides of the glass. Shouldn't wear out now and looks 100% better IMHO.

The finished article matches up with the indicators much better I think and twinned with the LED main beams is very bright!

























If anyone else fancies doing this sort of thing I now have loads of spare parts and my old (mark 1) mounting brackets...


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## cobrAA (Jun 1, 2008)

how much did the whole process cost ? I already opened once my headlight.. not sure I want to redo the job lol!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Depends how you want to do it really. I bought spare lights and parts from expensive places. I've also got very high outut LED for main beam which isn't really necessary.

You can get the projectors for £40-50, ballasts £15, bulbs £5-10 and say £20 for wiring and connectors.

Or you can spend more with (hopefully) more reliable, better performing kit. To be honest the cheapo stuff did me for several years and nothing broke. It was a big step up from the OEM set up.

I have a relay set-up planned out somewhere to provide only the main beams coming on when you flash your headlights. If you want to DIY it and build your own relays then shout. I reused my existing harness because I'm lazy.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

I picked up some new wheels the other week. You'll never guess where I got them:









I already have some new tyres ready:









Just awaiting the new (black) valve stems and the wheels will be off for a refurb. I'm thinking dark grey at the moment. I might change the centre cap stickers too. Maybe older design Nismo or just the Skyline S if I can find such a thing.


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## FRRACER (Jun 23, 2013)

The tyres say Nitto, but look identical to Federal 595 RSR


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

FRRACER said:


> The tyres say Nitto, but look identical to Federal 595 RSR


The Federals haven't been fitted yet. The drag tyres came with the wheels. I can't see any point in getting them mounted until the refurb is done.


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## nightcrawler (May 7, 2010)

looking nice cris =)

where are you going to have your wheels refurbed?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

nightcrawler said:


> looking nice cris =)
> 
> where are you going to have your wheels refurbed?


A place called Wheel Works in Crawley has gotten good reviews so I think I'll give them a try.


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## speedingpanther (Jan 31, 2008)

Cris said:


> A place called Wheel Works in Crawley has gotten good reviews so I think I'll give them a try.


I haven't personally used them - however a friend of mine had issues with them not checking if wheels were usable after powder coating and they ended up powder coating over damage/cracks.
Whilst the cracks weren't their fault, the wheels later failed dramatically.

So at the very least - I'd say you'd want to know your wheels are in perfect condition prior to any works.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

speedingpanther said:


> I haven't personally used them - however a friend of mine had issues with them not checking if wheels were usable after powder coating and they ended up powder coating over damage/cracks.
> Whilst the cracks weren't their fault, the wheels later failed dramatically.
> 
> So at the very least - I'd say you'd want to know your wheels are in perfect condition prior to any works.


I'm assuming that you man that the wheels were damaged prior to getting refurbed?

If so fair point, second hand wheels are a risk. On the plus side given where I bought the wheels I'm pretty confident that they've not sold me knackered wheels.

It is something of concern though. I guess the only way to be sure would be to get them xrayed.


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## dragerboy (May 15, 2003)

Cris said:


> A place called Wheel Works in Crawley has gotten good reviews so I think I'll give them a try.


Had my mint green Rotas done at Wheel Works. Changed to a custom bronze, quality was first rate.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

dragerboy said:


> Had my mint green Rotas done at Wheel Works. Changed to a custom bronze, quality was first rate.


Nice '33. Do you have any more pics of the wheels they look interesting.

Thanks for the recommendation. Feedback seems to be pretty positive for these guys so I'm pretty sure that they'll be getting my money.


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## dragerboy (May 15, 2003)

Cris said:


> Nice '33. Do you have any more pics of the wheels they look interesting.
> 
> Thanks for the recommendation. Feedback seems to be pretty positive for these guys so I'm pretty sure that they'll be getting my money.


Some more pictures. I think the guy that owned the business did mine.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Final items arrived for the wheels:









So they are off to be refurbed. Thought I'd see how wide the 255 tyres actually are:


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## border1 (Jan 25, 2014)

good work, decided on a colour yet?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

border1 said:


> good work, decided on a colour yet?


Going for anthracite

Hopefully to end up something like this:


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Some might be aware that Mark and I purchased some excellent Bearish/Laille chassis braces/plates. Newera kindly stepped up and sorted out the shipping at the eleventh hour. Without Marty and Miguel we would have been stuffed so thanks guys!

Anyway here's a picture of one of the chassis plates which will probably explain what they do better than my waffle:









Also as promised here are some pickiest of the wheels now that they have been refurbished:


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## dragerboy (May 15, 2003)

Wheels look superb mate.


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## border1 (Jan 25, 2014)

Wheels look awesome!

Those braces look interesting, are you riveting or welding them on? Will you be taking off any underseal before fitting them?


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## markM3 (Jan 7, 2008)

I'm going to have mine welded on after the undersea is stripped off. 

Cheers,

Mark


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## border1 (Jan 25, 2014)

markM3 said:


> I'm going to have mine welded on after the undersea is stripped off.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Mark


Nice to see it being done properly!

interested in seeing how much of a difference you feel they make


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

dragerboy said:


> Wheels look superb mate.


Cheers. I'm looking forward to getting them on the car to see the full effect.

I'm sure that Wheel Works will do a good job on the old ones too.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

markM3 said:


> I'm going to have mine welded on after the undersea is stripped off.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Mark


That's my thinking too. They do come with nice rivets and have a galvanised coating which I guess will be knackered when they are welded on. Hey ho


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

border1 said:


> Nice to see it being done properly!
> 
> interested in seeing how much of a difference you feel they make


I'm rather hopeful. The r32 chassis shows visible flex when you jack the car. Given that I (as pretty much everyone has) have fitted stiffer springs, lower profile tires and spherical bearings etc it highlights the chassis even more.


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## border1 (Jan 25, 2014)

Cris said:


> That's my thinking too. They do come with nice rivets and have a galvanised coating which I guess will be knackered when they are welded on. Hey ho


Not just knackered - you don't want to breathe in any of the fumes if there's any galv still around when it's being welded! Best off grinding the lot just before welding it on or the health implications aren't brilliant.


Cris said:


> I'm rather hopeful. The r32 chassis shows visible flex when you jack the car. Given that I (as pretty much everyone has) have fitted stiffer springs, lower profile tires and spherical bearings etc it highlights the chassis even more.


I've noticed the flex on mine, I'd love to fit a proper weld-in cage at some point to fix it but I like the idea of these being a lot less intrusive in the cabin!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

border1 said:


> I've noticed the flex on mine, I'd love to fit a proper weld-in cage at some point to fix it but I like the idea of these being a lot less intrusive in the cabin!


I find the R32 cabin pretty snug especially the headroom. The idea of metal bars floating around near my head was rather off putting. For a track car where you wear a helmet fair enough.

However I do have my eye on the Do-Luck brace which sits in the rear footwell. I'm thinking that with the (hopefully) stiffer chassis rails having something extra tying them together will help.

Of course once I've gotten the other braces fitted the cumulative effect will all be positive.

Or I will have just added a load of weight to the car.....


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

:flameulled finger out and fitted the new wheels. Not quite as visually impressive as the 18s but I still think that they look pretty good!

















The offset, slightly narrower rims and tyres means that the wheels sit a touch further into the arches which should stop any tyres/wheel arch interface:


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## markM3 (Jan 7, 2008)

I prefer them to your old wheels. Looking good bud!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

markM3 said:


> I prefer them to your old wheels. Looking good bud!


Cheers Mark. Sorry that I see to have ended up basically copying your wheel/tyre set-up (sort of)...

Some pics from the meet at NDE on Monday:


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## Lew777 (Dec 16, 2014)

Lovely car


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## nismo4342 (Oct 1, 2010)

NICE PIC


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Lew777 said:


> Lovely car


Cheers, very nice of you to say so


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## DINGER B (Jul 8, 2012)

Love the new wheels..... It's a stunning looking machine by the way. Very nice


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

DINGER B said:


> Love the new wheels..... It's a stunning looking machine by the way. Very nice


Cheers, to be fair most of the work was Nissan's not mine. I just wash it and massage the odd detail.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Those who've been following this will know I've recently had some 'new' wheels refurbed. Well part of this change over was centre caps for the wheels. The centre caps came with stickers to put in the centres saying Rays Engineering but they looked rubbish to be honest and I thought I could do better.

Anyway I got some new domed stickers made up and finally got round to fitting them. I'm rather happy with the result though it does show up the rusty wheel bolts...


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## Glaze (Sep 21, 2008)

New wheels on my VSpec


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Glaze said:


> New wheels on my VSpec


Nice what are they?


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## Glaze (Sep 21, 2008)

18" Impul NS-GT. Nice aggressive fit


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## Robbie J (Jan 8, 2005)

So will it all be finished to go to Le Mans in 2016?

Are you driving?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Robbie J said:


> So will it all be finished to go to Le Mans in 2016?
> 
> Are you driving?


It'll never be finished I suspect. However I am trying to get the thing booked in to get mapped.

As for LM2016 I think some sort of planning session is required. It's the only way to decide absolutely nothing over a period of many beers.


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## Robbie J (Jan 8, 2005)

yes at least 4 planning sessions required. The exhaust and wing have been changed on the 35 now so I'm ready to roll


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Picked the car up from Bob today. Much work has occurred though I'll go through it when I have pictures.

Here's a sneak preview:









I've got to say that the end result is excellent. The car feels much more solid and copes with transmissions much better.

Here a cheeky pic I snapped. I don't think that the car has ever been this shiny:


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## markM3 (Jan 7, 2008)

Good to hear the sill strengtheners made a tangible difference.

Cheers


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Here are some rubbish shots of the other braces which Bob installed for me:

Rear end

















Mid section









Steer rack brace

















Tension rod brace


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## cobrAA (Jun 1, 2008)

im suprised these braces made a noticeable difference, always thought they were in the same category as engine damper and such..


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

cobrAA said:


> im suprised these braces made a noticeable difference, always thought they were in the same category as engine damper and such..


Well the sill reinforcement is actually making the chassis stiffer. Maybe the mid section brace too (though I doubt that that does a vast amount). The rest of the kit is about locking down subframes/steering racks/drivetrain.

It may be that one individual part is useless - this lot have all been fitted at once so it's hard to say.

If nothing else the sill braces must be worth a punt of most peoples money.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Some prezzies from NZEFI turned up. Import taxes were their usual unpleasant surprise but that's nothing to do with NZEFI.

New injectors certainly look interesting:









It appears that they have put the resistor delete together for me - I was expecting that I'd have to build it:


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Another prezzie from down-under arrived:


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## FRRACER (Jun 23, 2013)

Whats that for Chris? Cannot identify it...


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

FRRACER said:


> Whats that for Chris? Cannot identify it...


It's a heat-shield/diverter plate for my pod filters. Should bolt together then sit over the filter area.

Feels nicely made but we'll see what fitment is like...

NB it must be good because it's already painted black!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Tried fitting the heat shield. It fouls on the Apexi intake's pipework. I think I could cut a section out to resolve this. There is also the problem that the shield will cover up the windscreen washer tank.

I've been thinking to relocation the tank to the boot. I think some sort of rubbery coating for where the shield tucks into the metalwork might be a good idea too. So looks like I've got some things to do before fitting this one.










In other news I finally got round to fitting the earthing kit I picked up a few months back. It didn't work quite as it should since I've relocated the battery to the boot. However I've made the best of the job and fingers crossed this will improve the earthing across the engine bay. Of course in all likelihood I've just made the front of the car slightly heavier to no other appreciable effect...


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## FRRACER (Jun 23, 2013)

Not an easy fit then for the shield. 

These earthing kits do they help? Or make any notable difference? In theory they should..


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## tarmac terror (Jul 16, 2003)

FRRACER said:


> Not an easy fit then for the shield.
> 
> These earthing kits do they help? Or make any notable difference? In theory they should..


After I fitted my earthling kit I DID notice the car ran a good bit smoother. There was clearly something amiss with the original earthling on my car.


A worthwhile mod, especially in the ignition amp area.


TT


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Somewhat rubbish picture (it was dark and raining!):









On the plus side the car now has the new Bosch injectors and a wideband along with a new map and a bigger MAP sensor. Not a lot of testing was done given the conditions but so far things are very positive.

At this stage a little recommendation for RK and NZEFI for their help with the current stage of development - cheers guys!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Random update. I finally have a mini-me for my car:


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## Robbie J (Jan 8, 2005)

so will it be the big one or little one that makes it to Le Mans?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Robbie J said:


> so will it be the big one or little one that makes it to Le Mans?


As long as I make it I'll be happy. Have you tested your new wing for whistles?

Had a package arrive today with another brace. Not sure yet about how to finish it. Might try and have it powder coated (if i can find a local coater).


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## Robbie J (Jan 8, 2005)

no whistles and the exhaust drone at 3400 has gone...

I think I will not do any Le Mans specials this year!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Robbie J said:


> no whistles and the exhaust drone at 3400 has gone...
> 
> I think I will not do any Le Mans specials this year!



There's still time


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## Robbie J (Jan 8, 2005)

OK I purchase some new wheels

knowing how my other Le Mans updates go I'm bound to get a puncture...


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Robbie J said:


> OK I purchase some new wheels
> 
> knowing how my other Le Mans updates go I'm bound to get a puncture...


Oooh, new wheels. What did you get?


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## Robbie J (Jan 8, 2005)

some shiny rays, I will paint them black once I scratch them


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Had an undertray delivered the other day and unlike my usual methodology of putting in the back of the garage forever I decided to fit it to the car.

Gave the 'inside' of the panels an extra lick of paint as a just in case and painted the brackets.









After an 'enjoyable' time fitting the thing it's on.









So now I have an undertray and it doesn't make the front of the car any lower. Which is nice.


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## AlexJ (Apr 3, 2003)

Looks good, which one is that?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

AlexJ said:


> Looks good, which one is that?


EBay jobby. I thought that the seller was a company in Canada but turns out it's China (surprise, surprise).

Quality isn't bad. Certainly better than many. Mildly annoying that the shipping and customs ended up costing more than the actual product...


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## mambastu (Feb 13, 2002)

I've got one of those too but lost the pack of brackets so ended up making them out of stainless. Once I'd fitted it I found the bloody brackets obviously. 

Think its a copy of a Sunline undertray.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Time for a couple of updates:

Bought a Do-Luck middle in-car brace thing - it was a little battered:









I liked the black finish so dropped it off with my local powercoater to blast it and then powercoat it satin black. Got it back just in time for Le Mans so on it went:









The centre nut is the only bit letting the side down but frankly I think I can live with it.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Finally got round to fitting the Skyline badge to my grill. Thanks you Younes for the advice on double sided tape. It has survived a fair pace on the Autoroute so job jobbed I think:









Journey down wasn't the best. Amongst other tragedies I had a water hose fail. No harm done beyond mess and wasted time but I'm bored of hoses failing. Time to get the whole lot replaced I think. I'm looking for a full silicone set-up....

Saw a few interesting things at Le Mans (no comment on Toyota!):

The Tesla SUV thing (oooh gull wing doors)









Saw some nice cars. Only took a few pictures because I'm lazy and was mostly drunk

























Apparently this is the new Nissan racing engine. Wonder if I could swap it for my RB....









Base camp was set-up









Weather wasn't the best









Le Mans does have some non-motoring upsides









Best toilet in France









Journey home was less eventful than the journey down, if you ignored the flat tyres and riots...


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

*Mario time*

As some might know I had (another) water pipe fail in France. Luckily two excellent chaps from Britassist were on hand to help.

Decided that it was high time to get medieval on the problem and just get all the hoses replaced.

Bought the biggest set of hoses I could find. Then bought a selection of stainless jubilee clips to hold it together.

Not too others - some of the hoses are different sizes at each end so measuring only one end of the hose when buying jubilee clips won't necessarily get you were you need to be!

Here a picture of the lot - note the lining on the hoses. I believe that silicon hoses will leak if they don't have a suitable lining, or at least so says the interweb:


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Decided to get into a couple of jobs I've been meaning to get on with for ages. Started here:









Pulled off the Apexi air-filters and the washer bottle. The washers haven't been working for a short while now:









Looks like the washer pumps are blocked up with crud:


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Here's a test fitting of my new airfilter pipework:









Amazing how much space removing the washer bottle frees up. I've also removed the foam block thing in the wing:


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

The completion of last week's job updated this week - the new washer bottle fitted and working:


















Fingers crossed the new air filters will arrive next week and I can finish of the airbox.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

New air filters arrived


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Test fitted the air filters:

















That should allow my SRI airbox/divider to be fitted on top as well as (hopefully) providing mildly better intake conditions/flow. Need to do some painting (satin black at the ready!) and "persuading" next.

Whilst I was in the engine bay I decided to change over some bolts which were letting the side down. I don't normally do this sort of thing but as the car gets tidier these sad blingy things attract my attention more.

Before:









After:


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

So here we are, almost the completion of the air filter project.


















Started reshaping the airbox/divider thing so that it would fit. I had to decrease the length of the wall and re-profile it to match the shape of the enginebay. I suspect my inter-cooler hardpipe and the fact that I have retained the carbon cannister is part of the problem.

























I used sticky foam to go around the edges of the metal. I was a little worried about the metal edges scraping the enginebay. Also sandwiched some between the two pieces in case it developed a rattle:









Ran out of light for fitting so that will have to wait until next time!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Have wanted to ditch the carbon can for a while now. So did some weight saving. This will make all the difference!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Well I've really blown it now. I've managed to get an 80% odd increase in unsprung mass. This is absolutely shocking and is really all down to my desire to bling up my wheels.

Here's the shameful detail of the extra weight gain - consider that this extra weight is per wheel so the total figure is times four!

Old:









New:









So with this form over function update what next? Airbags, Hellaflush Stance, Neons, who knows....


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## brett21 (Apr 20, 2005)

Cris said:


> As some might know I had (another) water pipe fail in France. Luckily two excellent chaps from Britassist were on hand to help.
> 
> Decided that it was high time to get medieval on the problem and just get all the hoses replaced.
> 
> ...


This is a job i need to do! Did all the hoses fit well? where did you purchase from?


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## Silverhks (Feb 15, 2017)

Hey Cris, I was searching around trying to sort out my headlight situation and found THIS post of yours. It seems to be a very good write up but none of the pictures works anymore. Any chance you could send them to me or something? I comprehend much better with pictures 

I also saw a post that I can't find that you were not using the adapters anymore, are you wanting to get rid of them?

What do you use now? Stock?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Silverhks said:


> Hey Cris, I was searching around trying to sort out my headlight situation and found THIS post of yours. It seems to be a very good write up but none of the pictures works anymore. Any chance you could send them to me or something? I comprehend much better with pictures
> 
> I also saw a post that I can't find that you were not using the adapters anymore, are you wanting to get rid of them?
> 
> What do you use now? Stock?


This link should have the pictures in: Old Headlights by Cris Woollacott | Photobucket

Not using the old lights any more but they aren't complete and are not usable as they are. The adapter are dead easy to make though.


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## Silverhks (Feb 15, 2017)

From the write up they seemed easy i'm just a little leary of diving straight in. My biggest concern is ending up with a light that I can't get aimed right. The pictures do help though thanks.


oh and this pic...
Yeah...


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Silverhks said:


> From the write up they seemed easy i'm just a little leary of diving straight in. My biggest concern is ending up with a light that I can't get aimed right. The pictures do help though thanks.
> 
> 
> oh and this pic...
> Yeah...


If you are worried then don't cut anything up. The shield (for low beam cut off) can be unscrewed. You could make your own flat shield (thus keeping the OEM to put back on if it goes wrong) so you can drive on the wrong side of the road (assuming that's you're intent).

With a really bright LED and fresh wiring from the battery you might find the OEM projector works out OK.

Or look for a kit which will fit into an H1/H3 'hole'. The reflectors are quite narrow so this isn't as easy as you'd think hence I made the mount.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Took the car out today for a run to the GTROC meet at Motorline Nissan. Excellent session with lots of lovely R32s present (and some others....:wavey


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## SPEED MERCHANT (Jun 5, 2006)

Thanks for turning up buddy :thumbsup:
Was good to catch up again


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

SPEED MERCHANT said:


> Thanks for turning up buddy :thumbsup:
> Was good to catch up again


Cheers! Was nice to chat. As ever an excellently organised meet :bowdown1:


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Time for some work. Bought a coilpack replacement kit form SuperTec and (eventually) got round to buying some new R35 coils.

It begins









Took the cover off, the igniter has to be unplugged too









Removed the coils, harness and locating plates









Fitted the new standoffs









Shiny new coil brackets









Coils and wiring specialities harness in place









Chopped the end off the cover so it doesn't foul the rear most coil. I also had to unscrew the bracket/guide for where the harness would connect to the igniter (if it were to be used)









All back together and looks very OEM









Detail of the back of the cover. Looks pretty good to me and should allow a bit more air to come out which is no bad thing. If I was keen I suppose I could put a little scoop/duct at the front the encourage air movement...









Celebrated by taking the car out the long way to buy a pint of milk


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## FRRACER (Jun 23, 2013)

Nice work Cris. The rear coil is multi fitment so can be angled or be straight depending on preference.


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## CSB (Nov 15, 2007)

Any noticeable difference from the new coils?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

FRRACER said:


> Nice work Cris. The rear coil is multi fitment so can be angled or be straight depending on preference.


I got a bit bamboozled by that. Angled seemed to fit more easily so I went with that but maybe the straight fitting would have made the loom easier to tuck in?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

CSB said:


> Any noticeable difference from the new coils?


On my initial run - not really. I have yet to have a crack at setting the dwell times so I suppose that that is to be expected.


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## FRRACER (Jun 23, 2013)

Get the dwell times up to about 4.2 -4.4ms max at 13.5v


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## FRRACER (Jun 23, 2013)

Cris said:


> I got a bit bamboozled by that. Angled seemed to fit more easily so I went with that but maybe the straight fitting would have made the loom easier to tuck in?


Was designed as some prefer straight out rather than angled I've found the loom is easier to tuck in.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

After much faffing with customs and Royal Mail I had a delivery from Unique Auto Creations - a wiper motor cover and some cupholders. God knows why I bought the cupholders mind - must have been drunk...










This is where it goes:









Dead easy to fit, whip off the plug and the two bolts on the right. Does highlight how scuzzy the wiper motor body is though...









Second job was a little harder. Had a fuel leak. The rubber hose coming from the fuel rail had a go through about 180 degrees. The put too much pressure of the hose and it split. The nasty petrol leak has done bad thing to the black paint finish too:









Ordered some new fittings with a 90 degree bend to take the stress off the hose. Took me a while to get everything into place but very happy with the result. A much straighter run and shorter hose. Eventually I'll have to repaint the bit where the fuel has been but that's a job for another day.


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## Mätsi (Jan 27, 2016)

Little updating to engineroom. Just thinking if i should change blue silicones to black too....


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## mouthwash (Oct 7, 2016)

Love that bay but the blue is a bit jarring now.

edit: hold up, who's build thread is this.


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## Mätsi (Jan 27, 2016)

****, my bad.... just looked this topic and couple random pages and thought that there was everybodys picture  I cant edit or delete it. Sorry.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Mätsi said:


> Little updating to engineroom. Just thinking if i should change blue silicones to black too....


If I were you I'd loose the blue...


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## Mätsi (Jan 27, 2016)

Cris said:


> If I were you I'd loose the blue...


Sorry cris for riding with ur topic  But i looked your whole topic and ur car looks very good 

And i'll do that, i change blue away in near future


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## FRRACER (Jun 23, 2013)

Cris said:


> After much faffing with customs and Royal Mail I had a delivery from Unique Auto Creations - a wiper motor cover and some cupholders. God knows why I bought the cupholders mind - must have been drunk...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Cover looks really good how much did it work out to in total?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

FRRACER said:


> Cover looks really good how much did it work out to in total?


Once customs etc had their pound of flesh about £50...


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

As some might be aware I'm in the drawn out process of replacing all of the rubber hosing on the car. It's taking forever to get to all the hoses under the plenum. I swear that someone in Japan is now having a good laugh at all these idiots trying to get to the water hoses around the back of the engine.

Anyway as enjoyable as the process isn't I've noticed thjat some of the hardpipes are in a sorry state. Being me I had to clean them up.

Before:









I attacked it with a wire brush on my dremmel to remove all of the lose materials and rust. Some degreaser and then on with the paint. Apparently Hammerite don't make satin finish black some looks like I'm switching to gloss black from now on:









The hardpipe which runs around the front of the engine was looking skanky too so got the treatment. Whilst accessing it (fun with the fan in place) I saw how rubbish the radiator stays were looking. Some paint and new rubber helped smarten them up too:









Had a crack at the throttle linkage thing too:









Lots of work on-going with the hose purge which I will post to a future update when I'm finished


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

*Finally some progress*

I have hunted down and replaced pretty much every rubber hose in the enginebay and replaced it. A few more bits for sort before I can enjoy fitting the plenum.









Attacked the old fuel hoses and have enjoyed learning how to make up braided hoses.









Also put in a new fuel filter. Seemed worthwhile when I was in there. Looking at it now I think some sleeving is in order for where the braided hoses cross over. Might get some spiral wrap stuff.









In my usual target creep fashion I decided to improve upon the not so good blue finish on the Cusco master cylinder stopper. Took the opportunity to reuse some spare silicon hose as a 'bumper' too.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Bought a Cusco water separator thingy. All good but for the shiny silver finish. Off to the powder coaters then!










Much better!


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## Alex C (Aug 10, 2005)

Top job, loving the project :bowdown1:


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Bonnet prop now powder coated with rubber for the hook bit and sleeving to stop it rubbing


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## Jontte (Jul 19, 2011)

Nice project, needed to start clean own engine bay as well.


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## Robbie J (Jan 8, 2005)

will it be ready for Le Mans 2019 ie moving under its own steam Cris?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Robbie J said:


> will it be ready for Le Mans 2019 ie moving under its own steam Cris?


The whole point of what I'm doing is to stop the steam coming out Rob!


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

Duplicate


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