# 2010 vs 2011 used prices - why the big gap?



## moochofun (Feb 16, 2013)

I've had my MY11 car for almost 2yrs now and was thinking about a change next spring - to what I've no idea, I've followed the 'what next' threads with interest and things seem varied from C63's to M5s to 911s to Lambo's & R8's... 

Anyhow, I digress... I was wondering how much my car has depreciated duriong my ownership so went for a quick look on pistonheads and it doesn't look like the value of my car has fallen in value much at all... I then widened the search criteria for 2010-2012 models to see what like and was surprised how much the MY11 models (facelifted) are worth over the MY10 models (or the one without the DRLs fitted as standard - CBA or DBA I'm not sure which is which).

The reason I bought the MY11 over the the MY10 was purely down to buying the newest I could afford and following on from posts/advice on here about the slightly improved suspension/ride quality, slightly bigger brakes, better satnav, more power etc. 

This question has probably been asked before but are these differences really worth up to an extra £8-10k? Or am I missing something as to why the pre-facelift model is worth so much less? I'm thinking of I was in the position to buy a GTR again I would probably buy the cleanest/best MY10 model I could and get it tuned and some bling added and still save a penny or two over a standard face lift model...does that make me more informed or misinformed?! heh heh :runaway:


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## Adamantium (Jun 24, 2002)

yes the differences are worth it!

Facelift is DBA.


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## CT17 (Mar 25, 2011)

Earlier cars aren't as nice inside.
Have less downforce.
Have worse suspension.
Have smaller brakes.
Don't look as nice/modern without the DRLs.
Etc...

MY11 onwards are just better cars.
They are also in shorter supply as the prices were ramped up by Nissan by around £12k or so.

The older cars were cheaper so sold in greater numbers.

I've had an MY10, MY11 and an MY14.
If buying again it would have to be an MY11 or later.

Of course owners of older cars will have a different view, to justify thier purchase.


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## OldBob (Oct 18, 2010)

Agree with MY11+ superiority stock for stock, but:

Have less downforce..... I'd probably add the tranny cooling improvements etc as more useful on track
Have worse suspension....Who keeps the suspension stock?  Upgrades are better still
Have smaller brakes.....Who keeps the brakes stock? They all crack too
Don't look as nice/modern without the DRLs.....Beauty / eye of the beholder LOL


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## EAndy (Dec 13, 2011)

I've a MY10 with the same Sat Nav as a MY11, same brakes as MY11 (although changed to Alcons), suspension wasn't as good (changed to Litchfield).

Only difference between my MY10 and MY11 is the cosmetics pretty much. For the £10k I saved I went stage 4.25 and Litchfield suspension and had it wrapped. 

I guess it's all preference.


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## moochofun (Feb 16, 2013)

Thanks for the clarification on CBA/DBA adamantium  

I see where you and Richard are with the argument - those are the reasons why I went for the MY11 model myself (although hadn't factored in the extra original higher purchase price) but OldBob hits the nail on the head and probably where my head would be now if I was in the position to buy - you could buy a MY10 put it to stage 2 to get the power, buy the likes of Litchfields suspension and Alcon brake upgrades and probably still have change out of a £8k price difference? Or could you?? EDIT tpo add that YES you can as EAndy proves in his post above - must type faster!

The question is then how easy is it to sell a modified car? I imagine that you'd write of the £8k you just spent in upgrades then come across the argument that the average buyer wants a standard car! My head is marbles now :runaway: - think I'll just appreciate that there is still good residuals in my car and see what the market is like next spring :chuckle:


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## Adamantium (Jun 24, 2002)

I've had 2 my10s and 2 my11s, and agree entirely with Richard above,

I'd also add they have 12 month service intervals, not 6 months. Some came with service packs too meaning you could get a free service if there's any left, they also had more power from the factory (almost a moot point), newer design tyres, lighter alloys, launch control under warranty and from the factory.

Remember regardless of what others tell you, the value of the car when you come to sell it is recoverable, the money you save allowing you to spend more on mods when you buy an earlier car, isn't.

Spend the money on mods and it's dead money of which you'll only get back a fraction. Spend the extra on the newer model and a big chunk of that is recoverable.


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## Chronos (Dec 2, 2013)

CT17 said:


> Earlier cars aren't as nice inside.
> Have less downforce.
> Have worse suspension.
> Have smaller brakes.
> ...


Ohhhh my lord, 
Have less downforce. = please
Have worse suspension. = you mean harder suspension
Have smaller brakes. = everyone upgrades the brakes anyhow from crap stock
Don't look as nice/modern without the DRLs. = jesus! you mean the drls that the EU forced upon the UK :wavey: the only BETTER looking mod I'd have on the newer models, is the lightning bolt my14 lights

Of course owners of older cars will have a different view, to justify their purchase. = 'Justify their purchase'?? That's the most snobby load of shite i've heard in a long time you turkey!! You will be calling us peasants next! ...ahh yes i paid 10k less for mine, then spent a couple of k making it stage 4 604bhp / 650torque... so its more powerful than a my14.. ohh and with the other 8k I will stage 5 it after winter making it 750/750+++


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## moochofun (Feb 16, 2013)

Apologies everyone, didn't mean to start a war! :bowdown1:

However...do continue as I'm bored this lunch time opcorn:


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## CT17 (Mar 25, 2011)

Adam makes some very good points which I missed.

Yes, you can mod an MY10 to be better than an MY11, but you'll be kissing goodbye to most of the money invested where you wouldn't be to the same degree buying the later car.

I also missed out the warranty covered launch control etc...

If you want to build a completely mental GT-R that it doesn't matter what you start with as you'll be throwing £50k+ at it anyway.

But those that keep the cars relatively normal like what they have.
And if they've had both they prefer the MY11+.


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## CT17 (Mar 25, 2011)

moochofun said:


> Apologies everyone, didn't mean to start a war! :bowdown1:
> 
> However...do continue as I'm bored this lunch time opcorn:


You always get various opinions.
That's the good thing about forums.


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## CT17 (Mar 25, 2011)

Chronos said:


> Ohhhh my lord,
> Have less downforce. = please
> Have worse suspension. = you mean harder suspension
> Have smaller brakes. = everyone upgrades the brakes anyhow from crap stock
> ...


So the power figures get wheeled out again...
And the other improvements get overlooked in the need to prove a point. 

If you aren't aware of the downforce improvements. Find out about it.


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## shaunyboy (Oct 22, 2014)

Ive an 09 and love it to bits, the gap does seem massive tho when i was looking some 13k plus from the 37k i paid for an 09.


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## Chronos (Dec 2, 2013)

CT17 said:


> So the power figures get wheeled out again...
> And the other improvements get overlooked in the need to prove a point.
> If you aren't aware of the downforce improvements. Find out about it.


Why do we buy these cars?? POOOWWEERRRRRRRRR my snobby friend.

I have reminded you about the other improvements, which are currently eclipsed by independent R35 tuner's, even better improvements, that you can have fitted, and would still be cheaper and faster than a my11, Now as said if you are keeping stock, then hell yes spend an extra 10k on the same car with nice shiny lights on the front, then when you come to sell you might get back a couple of extra £.

Or like most of the GTR family that are MODIFIED,(see below poll thread) 

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/295273-what-stage-your-r35-gt-r-poll.html

get an earlier low mile car, and use the ££ to mod it, and use the change for a nice holiday in the Bahamas's for you and your family 

Mr.Peasant

P.s Did i mention my 09 plate that I have owned for 12 months, has appreciated in value! My car's making me money! How about that.


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## CT17 (Mar 25, 2011)




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## OldBob (Oct 18, 2010)

Adamantium said:


> I've had 2 my10s and 2 my11s, and agree entirely with Richard above,
> 
> I'd also add they have 12 month service intervals, not 6 months. Some came with service packs too meaning you could get a free service if there's any left, they also had more power from the factory (almost a moot point), newer design tyres, lighter alloys, launch control under warranty and from the factory.


Pretty much agree but with some context to add.

MY11 is now nearing out of warranty, so service intervals/packages become a bit moot. We mostly don't use NHPC for stuff anyway esp out of warranty and wouldn't dream of extending the warranty with Nissan..at their costs. We all have Litchfield traction and launch with uprated clips anyway lol. (and some aftermarket warranty)

Tyres - meh - 6K miles later you need to/can change them anyway. Again those Dunlops aren't necessarily the tyre of choice, subject to use and objectives. (better ride, wet - MPSS, track etc - Toyo's)

Wheels, agree...and rims aren't cheap to replace.




Adamantium said:


> Remember regardless of what others tell you, the value of the car when you come to sell it is recoverable, the money you save allowing you to spend more on mods when you buy an earlier car, isn't.
> 
> Spend the money on mods and it's dead money of which you'll only get back a fraction. Spend the extra on the newer model and a big chunk of that is recoverable.


Absolutely right....
However if you add Y amount of mods to either, the same Y amount of mods gets written off / marked down at sale, so doesn't it only come down to the depreciation difference between MY11 and MY10 for nett recovery of your original investment. 

Yep it's a quiet lunch day. LOL
If you buy a later and keep it stock then you do get the advantages. Who does :thumbsup:


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## OldBob (Oct 18, 2010)

PS where's Steve when we need him


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## evogeof (Aug 3, 2014)

CT17 said:


> Earlier cars aren't as nice inside.
> Have less downforce.
> Have worse suspension.
> Have smaller brakes.
> ...


I think I'll dissagree with you on that the older ones don't look as nice inside. I think they look a lot more classy than the newer ones Ive seen. The seats for instance look nicer and the Alcantara cloth on the newer ones you can see the foam through the dots. 
I agree on the other bits you mentioned though.


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## Chronos (Dec 2, 2013)

OldBob said:


> Absolutely right....
> However if you add Y amount of mods to either, the same Y amount of mods gets written off / marked down at sale, so doesn't it only come down to the depreciation difference between MY11 and MY10 for nett recovery of your original investment.
> 
> Yep it's a quiet lunch day. LOL
> If you buy a later and keep it stock then you do get the advantages. Who does :thumbsup:


I'm sure i have seen stage 4 my09 my10 that are higher priced to sell, compared to a stock my09 m10 with similar miles, due to the stage 4... IF a reputable tuner has tuned the car. I'd say roughly 1/3 of the modification's cost..


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## OldBob (Oct 18, 2010)

Of course there are... I was only taking that factor out of the logic.


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## OldBob (Oct 18, 2010)

...and I wasn't pointing out that the percentage loss of the parts replaced for similar mods made on a MY11 price cf an MY10 is higher too LOL


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## OldBob (Oct 18, 2010)

All up though if I was starting from scratch I'd get as late a model as I could afford (mindful of mod addition cost), then mod it appropriately.


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## Steve (Sep 21, 2001)

CT17 said:


> Earlier cars aren't as nice inside.
> Have less downforce.
> Have worse suspension.
> Have smaller brakes.
> ...


Oh Dear 

All B*ll*cks !!!:chuckle::bowdown1:

Mine has more downforce (Cement in the boot):chuckle:
Great suspension cos i'm not a fat ****:bowdown1:
Alcon 400mm BBK all round ! :runaway:
and does not and will not ever have GAY time running lights !!!:flame::flame:


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## OldBob (Oct 18, 2010)

The Cavalry has arrived! PMSL


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## scoooby slayer (Jun 13, 2009)

il give my take on it as I had the decision to make myself earlier this year. 

I was contemplateing an my11 at £50k+ which would of been fairly standard


but in the end I bought a 960 hp 09 gtr for under £60k

my discs are later disks, suspension springs are changed/car lowered much stiffer.

I don't have drls, not sure what downforce mods are but I do have carbon rear undertray, and then obviously a built engine, turbos and gearbox with syvecs ecu.

so for me I chose to spend my11 money on a mental spec my09 and im glad I did it is crazy fast  


it depends what you want from it, I want a weekend car for me and my family cruise and flick of a switch 9 sec drag car that handles aswell


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## Chronos (Dec 2, 2013)

OldBob said:


> All up though if I was starting from scratch I'd get as late a model as I could afford (mindful of mod addition cost), then mod it appropriately.


Depends on how much you want to spend on a car, I'm happy with mine, as I didn't want to spend over 40k on a car, and now have a faster than my14 for under 40k



Steve said:


> Oh Dear
> All B*ll*cks !!!:chuckle::bowdown1:
> Mine has more downforce (Cement in the boot):chuckle:
> Great suspension cos i'm not a fat ****:bowdown1:
> ...


and order is restored! You said what i said, but I was more reserved. lol :flame:

The better looking car because of DRL's really tickled me.


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## Chronos (Dec 2, 2013)

scoooby slayer said:


> il give my take on it as I had the decision to make myself earlier this year.
> 
> I was contemplateing an my11 at £50k+ which would of been fairly standard
> 
> ...


so the shiny DRLs for 10k more didnt sway you towards a my11? I'm surprised... lol

Fair play tho 960bhp !! mentalllll!!!!!


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## Adamantium (Jun 24, 2002)

Hands up those on this thread who have owned at least one CBA AND at least one DBA.

I'll start. ^


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## EAndy (Dec 13, 2011)

Don't forget the DBA gearbox is better than the CBA! Mine destroyed itself so even though it's a CBA I have a DBA gearbox. Basically I'm a DBA. Really is a DBA bar as said the cosmetics.

Pricing comments are interesting:

When I went to buy my car I had around £60k I was willing to spend (this was Jan 2012) I bought a December 24th 2009 GT-R for £37k and since have gone beyond £50k with warranty and modifications. (I won't count servicing because regardless of old or new both cars need servicing).

If I sell the car now I firmly believe I'd get back around £33k in standard form, £36k with Stage 4.25 mods and probably £3k on bits such as 21" COR wheels and all my spares, spare set of new tyres etc.

Therefore from 2012 to near 2015 I would be around £10k - £12k out of pocket / approx £4k a year.

If in 2012 I'd gone and spent the going price of around £64k on a low mileage 2011 GT-R the market value today is around £48k (listings are about £51k but who pays asking price).

Therefore if I'd bought a 2011 GT-R. I'd have lost around £13k - £15k if I'd left it in stock form. Having bought the one I have and chucked £10k - £15k at it I've lost on paper around £10k - £12k. 

Therefore in my mind I've lost 'less' money buying an older / cheaper car due to things like depreciation, new models being hiked in prices. 

Not only that the comparison would be;

New car has better styling (maybe but I added carbon bits I prefered + wheels)
New car has better suspension (Litchfield is superior)
New car has more power (I'm stage 4.25)
New car has better brakes (I had same but Alcons better)

When it comes to sell it I think I'll find it easier to shift a £33k - £36k Stage 4.25 car than a stock 2011 at £50k personally.

The debate is interesting but I think there is many factors. It really depends on what you want I guess. But I wanted power and less ££££ lost therefore a low mileage good condition older car ticked the boxes for me 'personally'. I have a much quicker car than stock ones, I have a better handling car than stock and I've tailored it to look as I wanted including the colour. I also have a better warranty and my favourite TV programme is The Tweenies (just wondering if anyone read this far).

If I wanted a stock car, and wanted to keep it OEM then yes buying the newer one would of ticked that box and seen the same amount of financial lose.


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## Adamantium (Jun 24, 2002)

scoooby slayer said:


> il give my take on it as I had the decision to make myself earlier this year.
> 
> I was contemplateing an my11 at £50k+ which would of been fairly standard
> 
> ...



960bhp - fantastic.

When you say 9 seconds, what exact numbers are you getting?


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## CT17 (Mar 25, 2011)

Adamantium said:


> Hands up those on this thread who have owned at least one CBA AND at least one DBA.
> 
> I'll start. ^


+1. :chuckle:


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## OldBob (Oct 18, 2010)

^ I bet there's quite a long list LOL. Next question is who's gone from CBA to DBA and not modified it....


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## Chronos (Dec 2, 2013)

EAndy said:


> Don't forget the DBA gearbox is better than the CBA! Mine destroyed itself so even though it's a CBA I have a DBA gearbox. Basically I'm a DBA. Really is a DBA bar as said the cosmetics.
> 
> Pricing comments are interesting:
> 
> ...


A man after my own heart, Persoanlly I prefer a more power faster car, money in my pocket from a car that appreciates if I decided to sell, and I am willing to sacrifice shiny EU forced drls, for 10k in my pocket.. 

either way this thread is just a cba Vs DBA debate, and could go on forever.. lol :flame: Like the supercar or not supercar debate


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## AdnanK (Jun 11, 2013)

Putting costs and depreciation aside, unless you have a DBA gearbox in your CBA, then DBA for me always wins, everything else that comes with a DBA over CBA is just a bonus.

cba dba cba dba cba dba cba dba


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## jrattan (Oct 23, 2014)

Bought a my11 cos I could afford one otherwise would have happily settled for a good my10! The 6 month service put me off the my10 slightly. 
Either way they're both amazing, but there is clearly a gap in value otherwise they wouldn't be priced in such a way.


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## Adamantium (Jun 24, 2002)

once again,

Anyone else who has had both care to comment?


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## OldBob (Oct 18, 2010)

AdnanK said:


> Putting costs and depreciation aside, unless you have a DBA gearbox in your CBA, then DBA for me always wins, everything else that comes with a DBA over CBA is just a bonus.
> 
> cba dba cba dba cba dba cba dba


What changes are people thinking there are to the gearbox btw?

Other than:
"New ECM and TCM mapping
Launch Control "4" standard, warrantied
Fuel save "eco" mode on transmission switch
2WD mode on transmission switch for low speed 2WD use"

Are there more differences in the EU models to those listed on nagtroc site (with the one year MY shift too of course)
The Official GT-R FAQ - R35 GT-R - GT-R Life


BTW if I was inclined to buy a new GTR - and mod the sh*t out of it to make up for it's deficiencies in
Power
Better track handling, suspension
Brakes
I'd...wait for it Steve...
...Go for a Nismo!

To go for the softer non modded brand new machine coming from a fettled oldun would be a bit flat wouldn't it and make you want to offload it as a result..
CT, Flynn et al ?


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## EAndy (Dec 13, 2011)

AdnanK said:


> unless you have a DBA gearbox in your CBA, then DBA for me always wins


^^ Like he said! I win :chuckle: DBA gearbox in a CBA.



Adamantium said:


> Hands up those on this thread who have owned at least one CBA AND at least one DBA.
> 
> I'll start. ^


I did test and drive a few DBA's prior to the CBA and at the time my thoughts were, preferred the interior, styling and suspension.

January 2012 prices stock 2009 GT-R £37k
January 2012 prices stock 2011 GT-R £61k 

For me the choice was simple. Especially when I can make them look similar for £49.99 CBA to DBA conversion :chuckle::chuckle::chuckle:

Side by side in stock form is a DBA car really £24,000 better than a CBA.

Oldbob things inside the gearbox are different. Such as the solenoids and some of the clips for example. You'll find (and not just because of age and mileage) as a percentage I believe a lot less DBA boxes have failed over CBA ones.


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## Chronos (Dec 2, 2013)

Adamantium said:


> once again,
> 
> Anyone else who has had both care to comment?


Doe's it matter? people buy them for different reasons.. 

Ie. - 
only want to spend a certain amount on a car, some people don't want to spend 50/60/70/80k on a car
have dba money to play with, but want a much more powerful car for the money to get cba
have dba money to play with but want a modded car, with independent better mods so get cba
have dba money and want a dba car as is stock
have dba money and lots of spare ££ to throw at it and are happy to, so buy a dba and mod it

see, endless debate lol ... :flame: its making the afternoon go quicker tho, hometime in 2 hours  keep going please...


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## New Reg (Jul 22, 2011)

I have had my MY10 for three years and it will be going early next year - most likely for a 12C. There have been occasions over the past two years when I have thought about 'upgrading' or getting a new GTR but the differences involved simply were not enough to justify the extra outlay. I would rather stick with what I have got and keep saving that money for a new (different) car as opposed to keep changing and losing money on newer GTRs which - whilst different and may be better in some respects - don't offer enough of a difference to justify the outlay and subsequent loss. What you need more than anything is the car itself. Nissan obviously had a life span in mind when they released the GTR (nearly 10 years it looks like)and obviously had to keep trickle feeding the market which revised additions to maintain interest. All well and good, but I would rather not get involved in that game.

PS. The wheels look better on the old model and DRL are just awful on any car. Like a council estate at Christmas time I think JC called them. :chuckle:


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## Clogger (Sep 15, 2014)

LOL


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## OldBob (Oct 18, 2010)

...oh yeah and the MY11's onwards smell.


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## scoooby slayer (Jun 13, 2009)

Adamantium said:


> 960bhp - fantastic.
> 
> When you say 9 seconds, what exact numbers are you getting?



I havnt launched the car yet so I don't have any numbers for a full bore drag run, with no launch I have done the 1/4 mile in 10.5 seconds at 117 mph. 

i hit 137 mph then backed off and crossed the line at 117 mph





as you can clearly see the graph is a dip upto 60 mph there will be big gains there with a launch

i have 30 - 130 in 6.2 seconds so i have more than enough power, its a 9 second car that is for sure.

on v power alone i have terminaled 144 mph in the 1/4 mile, a sniff of vodka gives another 116 hp so with rrr aswell that figure should be nearer 150 mph hopefully


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## scoooby slayer (Jun 13, 2009)

well my early gearbox has all these modifications


Svm heat treated and superfinished gear set
Svm/GTC 16*Plate*Clutch*kit
Modified Baskets with Weld fix
Dodson gearbox circlips
Dodson drive locks
Dodson oil magnets


so im sure its as good or better than any my11 trans........... unless theres other mods i don't know about ?


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## Adamantium (Jun 24, 2002)

I thought the launch didn't affect the terminal velocity, only the ET.


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## scoooby slayer (Jun 13, 2009)

Adamantium said:


> I thought the launch didn't affect the terminal velocity, only the ET.



it wont not by much anyway, I havnt done a full pull yet on e50 with high rpm, only done one at 1.5 bar on v power with 6800 rpm shifting and I terminaled 144.7 mph.


im yet to do a full pull at 1.7 bar on e50 with 7450 rpm shifting, it will certainly be more than 144.7 mph though


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## goRt (May 17, 2011)

Adamantium said:


> once again,
> 
> Anyone else who has had both care to comment?


Yes, DBA is well worth it, much more refined, updated gearbox and DRLs are very useful as people still don't know how fast these are!
Oh the recaros are nice too.


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## Adamantium (Jun 24, 2002)

scoooby slayer said:


> it wont not by much anyway, I havnt done a full pull yet on e50 with high rpm, only done one at 1.5 bar on v power with 6800 rpm shifting and I terminaled 144.7 mph.
> 
> 
> im yet to do a full pull at 1.7 bar on e50 with 7450 rpm shifting, it will certainly be more than 144.7 mph though


Sounds like a lot of fun. Not many places I'd want to try doing that.


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## TREG (May 20, 2004)

Most things get improved on after newer models are realised, TV's, camera's, cars.

May as well compare the 2011 to the 2014 model now and all argue which is better.
At the end of the day we all have a limit of what we have to spend on a car, but with a sensible outlay all of them can be improved on.


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## scoooby slayer (Jun 13, 2009)

Adamantium said:


> Sounds like a lot of fun. Not many places I'd want to try doing that.



it is a lot of fun adam, I have a 1/4 mile private road I own which I can reach over 100 mph on  

even out on the road 50-70 can be dealt with in 0.86 seconds


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## Evo9lution (Aug 24, 2013)

goRt said:


> DRLs are very useful as people still don't know how fast these are!


Could just turn the side lights on :runaway:

Great thread BTW :thumbsup:


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## goRt (May 17, 2011)

Evo9lution said:


> Could just turn the side lights on :runaway:
> 
> Great thread BTW :thumbsup:


Before or after you replace the stock candles with LEDs?


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## Evo9lution (Aug 24, 2013)

goRt said:


> Before or after you replace the stock candles with LEDs?


LOL - sod LEDs, get lasers :thumbsup:


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## goRt (May 17, 2011)

Evo9lution said:


> LOL - sod LEDs, get lasers :thumbsup:


Haha


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## OldBob (Oct 18, 2010)

goRt said:


> Yes, DBA is well worth it, much more refined,* updated gearbox *and DRLs are very useful as people still don't know how fast these are!
> Oh the recaros are nice too.


There we go again, what updated gearbox elements are you referring to? I'm feeling really paranoid now and that DBA owners are told secrets that us CBA peasants can't be allowed to know, I'm happy to sign a non disclosure agreement LOL. 

To reiterate:
...What changes are people claiming there are to the gearbox btw?
Other than:
"New ECM and TCM mapping
Launch Control "4" standard, warrantied
Fuel save "eco" mode on transmission switch
2WD mode on transmission switch for low speed 2WD use"

Are there more differences in the EU models to those listed on nagtroc site (with the one year MY shift too of course)
The Official GT-R FAQ - R35 GT-R - GT-R Life


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## MattGTR750 (Apr 26, 2012)

I went from a MY09 to a MY11. 

I bought the 09 stock from a forum member and took to full bolt ons stock turbos.

Bought the my11 from ct17 as stage 2 with some other good bits on and now is built engine + bigger turbos.

The difference is worth the extra money! I'm selling mine soon and will be going for a my14 and start the build all over again as I like to change every 18-24 months.


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## goRt (May 17, 2011)

OldBob said:


> There we go again, what updated gearbox elements are you referring to? I'm feeling really paranoid now and that DBA owners are told secrets that us CBA peasants can't be allowed to know, I'm happy to sign a non disclosure agreement LOL.
> 
> To reiterate:
> ...What changes are people claiming there are to the gearbox btw?
> ...


Circlips why else to they get changed on CBA to DBA spec by litchi and co?


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## CT17 (Mar 25, 2011)

MattGTR750 said:


> I went from a MY09 to a MY11.
> 
> I bought the 09 stock from a forum member and took to full bolt ons stock turbos.
> 
> ...


Don't do it!
It's a softer, more mundane driving experience...


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## AnilS (Mar 9, 2014)

TREG said:


> Most things get improved on after newer models are realised, TV's, camera's, cars.
> 
> May as well compare the 2011 to the 2014 model now and all argue which is better.
> At the end of the day we all have a limit of what we have to spend on a car, but with a sensible outlay all of them can be improved on.


Absolutely spot on :bowdown1:


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## Steve (Sep 21, 2001)

Evo9lution said:


> Could just turn the side lights on :runaway:
> 
> Great thread BTW :thumbsup:


Ooooooooooooohhhhh Far to sensible for the DLR Gay time running light boys (and girls):chuckle:


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## DanielM3 (Jul 30, 2013)

Adamantium said:


> Hands up those on this thread who have owned at least one CBA AND at least one DBA.
> 
> I'll start. ^


Exactly, unless you have owned both, how can you comment on hear say..!

I have had both and would happily pay £10-£15k extra....

There chalk and cheese with to many differences to list.


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## goRt (May 17, 2011)

Steve said:


> Ooooooooooooohhhhh Far to sensible for the DLR Gay time running light boys (and girls):chuckle:


I just want people to see me coming and I don't intend to be backing onto them hence not wanting to put the (useless stock) side lights on!
My my10 was DMG so invisible to most not bright red like yours!


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## Bulldog11 (Aug 17, 2014)

Is there any mechanical differences in the gearbox between them or just software?


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## Evo9lution (Aug 24, 2013)

goRt said:


> I just want people to see me coming and I don't intend to be backing onto them hence not wanting to put the (useless stock) side lights on!
> My my10 was DMG so invisible to most not bright red like yours!


Tbh mate, I fear that people who don't see you coming won't see you coming whether you have DRLs, side lights on or neither as they just look at the road directly in front of them anyway. Similarly, DRLs when overtaking won't help people determine how fast you're going or inform them that you're likely travelling faster than they expect. Anyone who looks in their o/s wing mirror will see a car there anyway and anyone who doesn't ...

DRLs are a good idea in principle but we got along fine for decades without them and when it comes to visibility it is either fine or crap and in the latter you'd have lights on anyway. EU regs or not, in many ways the DRLs are just there to make differentiation between CBA & DBA cars easier for the layman (skirt vents and a third bulge each side of the front bumper isn't easy to spot unless specifically looking for it ...).


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## EAndy (Dec 13, 2011)

DanielM3 said:


> Exactly, unless you have owned both, how can you comment on hear say..!
> 
> I have had both and would happily pay £10-£15k extra....
> 
> There chalk and cheese with to many differences to list.


It's not hear say, I haven't owned both but tested both and for me it wasn't worth £24,000 more. £37k for CBA / £61k for DBA - January 2012.


Revised front and rear bumpers incl new rear diffuser
LED Daytime running lights
Improved aerodynamic efficiency

Now rated 530hp/448lbft (+50hp, +14lbft tq)
Engine boost pressure increase from 10.8psi to 13.0psi
Revised intakes, red trim engine cover, exhaust piping
New ECM and TCM mapping
Launch Control "4" standard, warrantied
Fuel save "eco" mode on transmission switch
2WD mode on transmission switch for low speed 2WD use

Revised suspension geometry
Revised damping and spring rates 
Revised damper construction
Carbon composite front strut reinforcement
Reinforced chassis firewall

Larger 15.4" Front rotors (+0.4") with new construction

Blue primary gauge MFD
Revised interior materials
Revised premium seat design & materials
Carbon finished center HVAC controls
Carbon finished lower console panel

Everything in red can be changed and largely improved for under £8k. That means everything not in red is worth £16k?

I 'personally' don't think that different bumpers, DRL's, and a few interior bits make £16,000 difference therefore I didn't buy a DBA car.

To say you can't compare the 2 without having owned one even if you've driven one for over 2,000 miles over the past few years seems ridiculous.

I'm not prepared to go and buy one and go... yep... my conclusion is correct £16,000 for blue dash lights and few bits of carbon interior wasn't justified.

If I was that fussed I feel pretty confident I can for £16,000 find someone who will change my dash LED's, fit a few carbon bits and retrim my seats with 'DBA' logos.

I do like the debate though and the fact everyone is putting points across with own personal opinions and reasons without any conflict between members. I guess the simple summary would be everyone has different opinions and tastes when it comes to cars and the GT-R offers variables that seems to tailor everyone regardless of what they want from the car be it left stock, tuned and various other options.


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## DanielM3 (Jul 30, 2013)

EAndy said:


> It's not hear say, I haven't owned both but tested both and for me it wasn't worth £24,000 more. £37k for CBA / £61k for DBA - January 2012.
> 
> 
> Revised front and rear bumpers incl new rear diffuser
> ...


So you haven't owned both, well I have and the new one is worth every penny...
And to add I wasn't prepared to spend a heap of money upgrading the power etc on a car that could possibly spent half it's life thrashed around a track so I bought a new one for my own peace of mind... Don't get your knickers in a twist over my opinion...


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## Evo9lution (Aug 24, 2013)

Apologies for my ignorance here but as this thread has gone down the route of the differences it is probably as good a place as any to ask.

When Nissan made the suspension asymmetric to cater for the driver - harder n/s/f spring rate and opposing (upwards vs downwards) rear suspension arms n/s and o/s respectively I believe - how does this affect the car when also having a passenger in the car? I've heard that the difference with the asymmetric suspension cars can be felt and can understand that a passenger may make little difference on the road but what about on track? Assuming that CBA and MY11 cars had a more traditional, symmetrical suspension set-up, does this mean that they may be slightly better balanced two-up on track than MY12 and later cars, but possibly less well balanced when just the driver?

While I can't see that being the case, setting up a car in one way will always affect it in another.


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## EAndy (Dec 13, 2011)

DanielM3 said:


> So you haven't owned both, well I have and the new one is worth every penny...
> And to add I wasn't prepared to spend a heap of money upgrading the power etc on a car that could possibly spent half it's life thrashed around a track so I bought a new one for my own peace of mind... Don't get your knickers in a twist over my opinion...


Can't tell if that's sarcasm or not?

Clearly I stated I haven't owned both but have extensively driven both. 2000 miles across Europe and through the Alps gives quite a good perspective of the DBA car for example I think.

No knickers in a twist I even stated I like the debate and opinions going on, sorry if you think I'm the sort of person who gets upset behind a keyboard over a topically conversation regarding cars and opinions. I'm the sort of person that likes having debates and hearing peoples thoughts and opinions regarding cars.

If you think that stock CBA vs stock DBA the DBA is worth £24,000 more or modified CBA vs stock DBA is worth £16,000 more than that's your well entitled opinion. I respect that fully. However my opinion is apparently invalid because I haven't had a name on a V5. As said I don't need to spend £24,000 to realise it's not for me, I don't need to own one to know that it's not for me. I'm not saying in stock form it's not a better car I'm just saying prices apart it's not justified for me.

It's like I've never owned a Chrysler PT Cruiser Cabrio but I know it's shite :chuckle:


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## Neanderthal (Apr 5, 2013)

Well I bought my 2010 because it was improved over a 2009.
I couldn't afford a 2011, but why wouldn't you get the newest model you can afford?

People seem more fixated on the DRL's on this thread than anything else lol
Improved interior would be on top of my list. Whichever year GTR you buy it's a phenomenally fast car, so choosing one with the best environment to be sat in should be a priority.


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## MattGTR750 (Apr 26, 2012)

It's not really a £24,000 decision though? A person buying a high mileage 09 car can't afford a facelift. It's more a late my 10 vs my 11 argument. Circa £10k max! Still a lot of money and a big decision but you'd be crazy to not go facelift if you had the spare money.

The best argument is the LHD 458 at £110k approx vs a RHD at £135k what would you choose lol? That's a £25k decision ... Id rather have the RHD for convenience.


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## OldBob (Oct 18, 2010)

goRt said:


> Circlips why else to they get changed on CBA to DBA spec by litchi and co?


Understood thx, a sensible upgrade to do for those who haven't already and curiously missing from the faq.


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## Clogger (Sep 15, 2014)

The newer the car to brand new the more money you pay, seems pretty simple to me.

Plus I really do prefer the blue dash, well worth the extra money, I am happy :chuckle:


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## scoooby slayer (Jun 13, 2009)

MattGTR750 said:


> A person buying a high mileage 09 car can't afford a facelift.




what an odd thing to say ? just because I bought a highly tuned 09 doesn't mean I cant afford an my11/my12, it doesn't mean I cant afford a brand new one either.

I chose what I did because its was what I wanted and within the amount I chose to spend on a car, not all I can afford.


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## MattGTR750 (Apr 26, 2012)

Mods please delete hit send too soon


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## MattGTR750 (Apr 26, 2012)

scoooby slayer said:


> what an odd thing to say ? just because I bought a highly tuned 09 doesn't mean I cant afford an my11/my12, it doesn't mean I cant afford a brand new one either.
> 
> I chose what I did because its was what I wanted and within the amount I chose to spend on a car, not all I can afford.


Yours is hardly a higher mileage 09 it's one of the best modified GTRs in the country. I think I didn't make my point properly, if someone only can get their hands on £30-32k it's not a £24k decision for them as they can just about afford the 09 car let alone stretch to a MY11. The decision for most is sub £10k and would you rather spend the £10k modding a my10 or keeping a my11 stock.


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## CT17 (Mar 25, 2011)

scoooby slayer said:


> what an odd thing to say ? just because I bought a highly tuned 09 doesn't mean I cant afford an my11/my12, it doesn't mean I cant afford a brand new one either.
> 
> I chose what I did because its was what I wanted and within the amount I chose to spend on a car, not all I can afford.


That's just being argumentative. 
Clearly your car doesn't fall into the normal comparison as it's extensively modified by one of the UK's tuners as thier own car.
Not to mention cost more than a two year old GT-R IIRC.

But agreed, what you buy isn't always what you can afford.


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## OldBob (Oct 18, 2010)

The glasses holder alone is good enough reason to buy a CBA..and Titanium paint colour 

Yes, bored now, but luckily my dementia will enable me to be reinvigorated when the topic is revisited next.


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## scoooby slayer (Jun 13, 2009)

MattGTR750 said:


> Yours is hardly a higher mileage 09 it's one of the best modified GTRs in the country. I think I didn't make my point properly, if someone only can get their hands on £30-32k it's not a £24k decision for them as they can just about afford the 09 car let alone stretch to a MY11. The decision for most is sub £10k and would you rather spend the £10k modding a my10 or keeping a my11 stock.



fair does I see what your saying now, id still buy an 09 car though and mod it lol

ive got issues with depreciation it will keep me up at night lol


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## Chronos (Dec 2, 2013)

scoooby slayer said:


> fair does I see what your saying now, id still buy an 09 car though and mod it lol


I had a similar idea myself, I wanted a stock UK low miler 09, not an 08 import , So got a never tuned virgin 09, I wanted to gradually mod it, at the tuner of my choice, with the mods/parts of my choice going through the stages to enjoy the experience, tho I did go straight to stage 4 lol, and so I am playing on from there.. 4.25 a few months later.. 

EU forced Drl's/shiny dashboards don't matter to me, performance is where the fun is for me personally.

I am having great fun with the car and the modding process... As I did with my previous car. It's amazing how tuneable these cars are, and they are a superb piece of engineering.


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## Adamantium (Jun 24, 2002)

Regardless of all the above comments, it's not a £24k difference nor even a £10k difference because a big chunk of the money comes back to you.

The value difference is the depreciation of the difference over the time you own it.

Sure the DBA will lose a larger amount of its value because at the same rate of depreciation the percentage of a higher initial outlay is a larger figure.

People need to stop thinking about the cost to buy something. It's not dead money. It's the cost of ownership that matters.

If you pay 10k more for the DBA than the CBA but when you come to sell both there's an 8k difference, then the question people should be asking (assuming you can afford the extra 10k in the first place) is "are the differences worth £2k down the drain".

The answer to that depends on how much you value £2k, but I suspect most people on here will say yes.

The value of the DBA will always be a good chunk higher than the CBA for the reasons pointed out in this thread, because there are so many of them compared to the perceived base line price I suspect the car will not fall below, I think the DBA premium will reach a minimum of around 6-7k.


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## EAndy (Dec 13, 2011)

Ok well a CBA when I bought mine was £37k a DBA was £61k (hence the £24k valuation difference)

A 59 Reg CBA now is around £34k (£3k down)
A 61 Reg DBA now is around £50k (£11k down)

At the time the difference was £24k I didn't think it was justified, if I held onto both and kept them stock the difference now in resale would be £8k. That would be more justifiable yes but in the context of what approach I was looking for in the direction of my ownership it didn't suit my specific requirements.

Perhaps thats a better explanation of my personal experience and thought process with the values over a period of time now closer together.


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## goRt (May 17, 2011)

EAndy said:


> Ok well a CBA when I bought mine was £37k a DBA was £61k (hence the £24k valuation difference)
> 
> A 59 Reg CBA now is around £34k (£3k down)
> A 61 Reg DBA now is around £50k (£11k down)
> ...


This sounds like a new car vs. Second hand?


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## goRt (May 17, 2011)

Adamantium said:


> Regardless of all the above comments, it's not a £24k difference nor even a £10k difference because a big chunk of the money comes back to you.
> 
> The value difference is the depreciation of the difference over the time you own it.
> 
> ...


At last someone who understands how money works!


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## EAndy (Dec 13, 2011)

goRt said:


> This sounds like a new car vs. Second hand?


This was January 2012, I was looking at 11 Reg cars DBA's which were all over £60k mark second hand, new prices were around the £70k region.


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## Gtr_isy (Oct 3, 2014)

In an ideal world we would all prefer something new as opposed to something old (except when it comes to Bmw m3's - e30s Rock). I have an 09 gtr, I would like a newer 11 plate one but does 10-15k extra suffice? For me, no because I can have an older low mileage gtr and also a 335i convertible. The best of both worlds.


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## Steve (Sep 21, 2001)

LOL, don't you know the new, new is old - go for an earlier model and save yourself thousands !!!!


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## Clogger (Sep 15, 2014)

dam all these poor people who have to buy up the burnt out 2009 cars :chuckle::chuckle:opcorn:


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## Steve (Sep 21, 2001)

LOL LOL LOL

NOPE, I was the first adopter of the GTR and have a PROPER 2008 import GTR as Mr Nissan could not get me a car even and after I went to Japan to see it released at the Tokyo Motor show in 2007 and paid my £3,500-00 deposit which they had for 10 months !!!


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## WingedBeast1968 (Sep 18, 2009)

Mk1 here. Black Edition. Navigation. I think Joe Public would have paid £62,384.14p

No gay time lights. Tiny little brakes. Pointless 500hp motor.
Utterly devastating interior plastics, like you get in the bottom of a box of chocs.

When I drive her, my face hurts from smiling! :chuckle:

But your cost engineered, tweaked, and fiddled withs are just as good

W


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## EAndy (Dec 13, 2011)

Clogger said:


> dam all these poor people who have to buy up the burnt out 2009 cars :chuckle::chuckle:opcorn:


Prefer it, came with bigger rear wheels than the DBA and with the spare change managed to buy some LED's from Maplins for DRL's


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## WingedBeast1968 (Sep 18, 2009)

FPMSL!! :chuckle:


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