# Replacing broken wheel studs



## JapFreak786 (Aug 29, 2003)

How can i replace a broken wheel stud please? i buggered the thread on a bolt when tighting up the wheel as i wasn't paying attention,and it has shreaded the grooves on the wheel stud,
safety is my main concern and i want to get it done asap,any advice??


----------



## David (Apr 25, 2003)

To replace, remove the caliper and disc, then hit the stud square on with copper headed mallet. This will push the stud out of the back of the hub (it is a spline fitment). 

To refit a new one slot it in throught the back of the hub and then make a space to fit on the front of the hub (a stack of old washers will do), then use a wheel nut to pull the replacement stud back into the hub.

Its is quite simple


----------



## 400gtr (Sep 20, 2009)

mine wasnt, it was a bitch of a job, had to remove the hub, then new studs were to long so had to get them cut down.


----------



## JapFreak786 (Aug 29, 2003)

thanks David,any advise on where I shall get one from? or just go to Nissan?


----------



## skyline.g.a.f. (Feb 25, 2007)

conceptua tuning 340 FOR 20 STUDS DELIVERED OR £20 FOR 10 STUDS SPOKE TO CHRIS TODAY AND HE SAYS YOU NEED TO DRILL THE HUB STUD HOLES OUT TO 14MM FROM 13MM AS THE REARS OF THE AFTERMARKET ONES HE SELLS ARE THE SAME SIZE AS THE FRONTS.


----------



## CSB (Nov 15, 2007)

anyone else had to replace their studs? need to do this on mine, would rather get more info than go in there with a mallet and start smacking all over the place


----------



## jabran200 (Sep 5, 2005)

CSB said:


> anyone else had to replace their studs? need to do this on mine, would rather get more info than go in there with a mallet and start smacking all over the place


Davids advice is spot on, don't know what more you need to know.


----------



## CSB (Nov 15, 2007)

jabran200 said:


> Davids advice is spot on, don't know what more you need to know.


took this from r32 gtr r32 gtr project thread, hope he doesnt mind.

so get to this stage and smack the studs out?


----------



## R32 Combat (Jan 29, 2004)

Screw a nut onto the stud to protect the threads. Use a heavy club hammer.


----------



## drewzer (Jun 22, 2009)

Don't be surprised if you need to replace the wheel bearing in a few months though!!! Best to be pressed out really, but needs must etc!!


----------



## CSB (Nov 15, 2007)

drewzer said:


> Don't be surprised if you need to replace the wheel bearing in a few months though!!! Best to be pressed out really, but needs must etc!!


I would just take it to a garage but the car is on axle stands.

Looks like I'm in for some fun. :bawling:


----------



## David (Apr 25, 2003)

I have done this loads of times you won't have a wheel bearing issue after. Think of the loads the wheel puts on the wheel bearing whilst cornering at 120mph. It considerably less than you can generate with a hammer. I have used this technique on many cars and not had an issue.


----------



## drewzer (Jun 22, 2009)

Look up "Brinelling". I have witnessed this on several occasions, when some thing needs a good battering to remove. Wheel bearings are not designed to take heavy axial impact, in particular Needle Roller. Ball bearing type suffer Brinelling far worse.

Anyway, get plenty of heat and penetrating fluid on her if you are going the Fred Flintstone route.


----------



## David (Apr 25, 2003)

Yes but it's not a heavy impact, the leverage is nothing like that everted by say a low offset wheel running through a pot hole at 30 mph. Its just magnitudes different. I respect your opinion on the other threads you have commented on but disagree on this one.

Also you don't continually pound on it one swift knock at there out, I would recommend heating it as you will screw the bearing seals up it you add enough heat to make a difference


----------



## drewzer (Jun 22, 2009)

Fair enough, i have seen it on several occasions. Yor example has one small flaw, tyre and suspension before the impact gets anywhere near the bearing. Heat wont transfer far enough to damage the dust seals on the bearing. Im not looking for a moan or anything, just tyring to help the guy. 

Best practice is to heat it with a heat gun (not a blow torch) and spray it with penetrating fluid as it cools, then heat once more and give it the treatment:chuckle:

The other thing that no one has mentioned is, if you can, put the wheel back on (pref the, spare in case you slip!!!) with the other 4 nuts tight and an old gash one on a few threads . . . . . and wallop!!!


----------



## CSB (Nov 15, 2007)

yeh but this is what I'm left with:


















wouldnt it be easier to drill them out instead of potentially damaging other bits?


----------



## drewzer (Jun 22, 2009)

Cut the two butchered studs at the bottom of the pic, flush to the surface of the disc with an angle grinder. Then remove the disc. If you do drill them out you will have to be dead center on the studs and work you way up from a small drill bit. Be carefully you don't go of centre and catch the hub or it will be a hub change.


----------



## David (Apr 25, 2003)

In that situation I would be tempted to remove the hub and mount the flange under a press and press out the remaining studs, as you dont really have enough stud left to hit hard enough (with a punch) to remove it. You could continue drilling but looking at the accuracy you have acheived so far it could end in tears


----------



## JapFreak786 (Aug 29, 2003)

the drilling had to be done with the wheel on the car still as the old nuts had warped and couldn't be removed David


----------



## CSB (Nov 15, 2007)

David said:


> In that situation I would be tempted to remove the hub and mount the flange under a press and press out the remaining studs, as you dont really have enough stud left to hit hard enough (with a punch) to remove it. You could continue drilling but looking at the accuracy you have acheived so far it could end in tears


:bawling:

cant I put something on the broken studs already and then smack them out. Been watching a couple of videos on the internet and it just takes one knock to take them out, but reading on forums about skylines it seems like you really have to give it a proper bashing!


----------



## JapFreak786 (Aug 29, 2003)

with your muscles i'm suprised you can't pop them out by just looking at them  lol


----------



## CSB (Nov 15, 2007)

JapFreak786 said:


> with your muscles i'm suprised you can't pop them out by just looking at them  lol


lol dude, I'm having other problems in the back getting the bolts undone, used so much force the car moved on axle stands! :nervous:


----------



## drewzer (Jun 22, 2009)

I would just remove the hub, will be alot less hastle in the long run!


----------



## TheD (Aug 25, 2008)

Definately remove the hub. For all the standing and looking and scratching of heads, the hub could be off and you could be coming back from a local garage that was kind enough to press them out by now (for a bit of cash in hand of course).


----------



## CSB (Nov 15, 2007)

Got it all sorted now. 

Couldn't remove the caliper bolts to get the disc off. I just put it on a flatbed and took it down the garage. Needed an air wrench. Theres a small groove on the hub for the studs to come out. Spin them one by one in line and bang them out.

New ones went on fine but will still have to see if any problems arose by driving it.


----------



## gaz-gtr (Jun 20, 2007)

CSB I'm having to take all 5 of my rear studs out as the bolts sheared and my wheel came off, attempting it today, so I have to spin each bolt to line it up with a notch before I knock them out?


----------

