# Turbo removal... I'm stuck!!



## RamRod (Apr 28, 2004)

I'm part way through removing the turbos from an R32 GTR and I'm a little stuck.

Basically front turbo is off with only 2 cuts to my hands so not too bad but very fiddly. I'm now trying to remove the rear and can't remove the heat shield because the water and oil feed lines above the turbo are in the way. These lines are bolted to the block with 2 nuts right at the back of the engine just above the rear turbo manifold. In the service manual it says remove the nuts (have done) and remove, however I can't pull the bracket that holds these lines off the studs from the block its too tight and it seems to me that it needs releasing from somewhere else first.

Any ideas?

Its such a badly designed system!!!! (sorry stating the obvious).


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## rockabilly (Oct 15, 2003)

you leave the bracket on and release the water and boost pipes from it.undo bolts holding pipework to head, disconnect water hose round front of cam cover, remove the two large pipes from the t-piece that feed the turbo with water


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## RamRod (Apr 28, 2004)

This is what I'm struggling with.

Are you saying pull the bracket but leave the pipes?


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## JapFreak786 (Aug 29, 2003)

i pulled it forward enough to pull the heat shield off when i did mine,un did the 2 bolts under it,think they're both 12mm or 14mm mate
not the ones to the left next to the block,there are 2 more further down that you can see,next to each other
or just un-do the ones to the side of it?


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## RamRod (Apr 28, 2004)

I've undone the 2 nuts that hold the bracket to the block (picture top you can see the stud in the yellow circle). I then try to move the bracket to the right (looking at the picture). It won't move and I'm worried about damaging the pipe.

There are 2 bolts holding the pipes to the bracket (centre picture inside yellow circle engine side), is it these that I should take off and then bend the pipes?


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## fourtoes (Feb 27, 2003)

This post might help you as there is a pic of the pipes as they go round the back of the head.
Hope this helps.

bob

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/136750-problem-after-fitting-head-drain-fitting.html


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## RamRod (Apr 28, 2004)

Thanks.

It looks like I have to take off a bracket behind the plenum.. OH f**kin joy!!! I can't wait to try and put that back on afterwards.


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## T.F.S. (Feb 5, 2004)

no, you shouldnt have to do that

you could just bend those pipes out of the way TBH

guide here
Skyline Owners Forum


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## vintoni (Dec 6, 2007)

If you have undone the nuts on that bracket the bracket should just scome away. You don't need to go behind the block mate.


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## RamRod (Apr 28, 2004)

I've read that guide which is very helpful, but unfortunately he doesn't have any heat shields on in the first place!

I don't really like the idea of bending those steel pipes.


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## jap power (Jun 19, 2010)

its held on with bolt on the back of the head i think dont bend the pipe m8


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## RamRod (Apr 28, 2004)

I've finally done it. Heat shield was a bugger to get out, I think I may have to mod it a little to get back in.

One thing I've noticed is putting the R34 turbos in there appears easier. They look smaller.


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

Glad to see you got it. The first time its a hassle to change the turbos. The 50th time, its pretty easy. 

Hate to break it to you, but I don't think the R34 turbos are a good swap. They still run ceramic exhaust wheels, which will always turn out to be the weak point. If you get any detonation, once you crank up the boost, just knocks the wheels off. 

Nissan Skyline GT-R s in the USA Blog: The Real Basics –Nissan Skyline GT-R , R32, R33, R34


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## RamRod (Apr 28, 2004)

Cheers, its a pain and I can understand why people go to a twin scroll single setup when upgrading.

I went to the r34s because moving to something better like 2860s etc will cost more than just turbos. Clutch, ecu, injectors, etc...

My cars state of tune will just about support the r34s at 1.1 bar. They also come on earlier so its a bit better all round. I have the r34 elbows as well 

I'm waiting for electric assisted turbos, they are the future...


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

RamRod said:


> Cheers, its a pain and I can understand why people go to a twin scroll single setup when upgrading.
> 
> I went to the r34s because moving to something better like 2860s etc will cost more than just turbos. Clutch, ecu, injectors, etc...
> 
> ...


Its just a tough thing, because when you detonate on the ceramic wheels, if you ever do, they just let go. I have had enough normally aspirated GT-R's over the years to know that I would rather put a good turbo, run lower boost, and then later crank it up once I got the supporting mods. 

The tune, and cam setup, can really help to bring the bottom end up. Nissan Skyline GT-R s in the USA Blog: Nissan Skyline GT-R Advanced Notes

Electric assist turbos , VTG turbos , V-cam, displacement. All ways to bring the bottom up. Direct injection. All really cool ideas and concepts, but the $$$ don't make sense for anything other than a cool exercise for an RB26. 

I can't say I have seen anything good on the electric assist stuff in a while.


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## RamRod (Apr 28, 2004)

Cheers, its a pain and I can understand why people go to a twin scroll single setup when upgrading.

I went to the r34s because moving to something better like 2860s etc will cost more than just turbos. Clutch, ecu, injectors, etc...

My cars state of tune will just about support the r34s at 1.1 bar. They also come on earlier so its a bit better all round. I have the r34 elbows as well 

I'm waiting for electric assisted turbos, they are the future...


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## frostmotorsport (Aug 10, 2007)

tyndago said:


> I have had enough normally aspirated GT-R's over the years to know ...


are you on drugs???

liking the pics and links in this thread as I am about to remove my turbos as part of the process of removing the head to replace all the bent valves....


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

frostmotorsport said:


> are you on drugs???of removing the head to replace all the bent valves....


Tongue in cheek man. It was supposed to be a joke Normally aspirated, because I knocked an exhaust wheel off a turbo. One time, I was on my way to Atlanta from LA when I broke my first one. Just a mild accel onto a freeway, and it let go. I searched all over for popped hoses. Figured it out that it was missing a wheel. Had a set of turbos next day aired. Replaced them in Mississippi, and made it to Atlanta for NOPI.

I hate doing the head in the car. Some guys do it, its just to get at it you have to get at about 80% of the stuff to get the engine out. Once the engine is out, you can do a much better job of it. 

Why do you have to replace the valves? Timing belt?


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## frostmotorsport (Aug 10, 2007)

oh I geddit now. Was actually funny, I just had a senior moment sorry 

yeah, crank sprocket ate the teeth off my HKS cambelt (only 40k old!) and the cams stopped but the pistons kept on coming!!

I'm 95% certain once the heads off I'm going to hook the block out for a light freshen anyway - but I need to see how stuffed the head and how much it's going to cost to fix - as it may be cheaper to throw a whole 2nd hand engine in (there are some freshly rebuilt ones for sale here in NZ for not a great deal of money!!)


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## T.F.S. (Feb 5, 2004)

frostmotorsport said:


> are you on drugs???



lulz!!


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## RamRod (Apr 28, 2004)

tyndago said:


> Electric assist turbos , VTG turbos , V-cam, displacement. All ways to bring the bottom up. Direct injection. All really cool ideas and concepts, but the $$$ don't make sense for anything other than a cool exercise for an RB26.
> 
> I can't say I have seen anything good on the electric assist stuff in a while.


Garrett have made a couple of announcements and released a couple of papers. Its by far the best tech yet and probably the easiest to tune for. Its certainly the answer to a lot of problems and if there is significant interest from car manufactures then prices won't be too high. Probably need a second battery of the high voltage variety or a large super capacitor to drive the electric assist. So it will never be cheap, but maybe worth it...

Sorry for the double post above, I was using my phone on the website when I had a bad signal and hit send twice at some point!


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## RamRod (Apr 28, 2004)

I'm almost finished putting this all back together. I'm stuck putting the oil return pipe back on the front turbo. The space to work in is making it impossible.. Anyone got any ideas? I think I should of put the damn return pipe on before dropping the turbo back in (doh)....

Couple of notes for anyone trying this at home.

1. Get yourself a set of crows foot wrenches from 22mm( for lambda sensors if using R34 ones) down to 10mm. 13mm used to take the manifold to turbo nuts off.
2. 1/4 inch flexi joint and a 12mm socket for manifold nuts. (get a socket set).
3. 12mm spanner and 13mm spanner in long and short lengths.
4. Copper slip.. loads of it!!! for when you put it back together and have to take it apart again!
5. Small scraper for remove the old gaskets.
6. Plasters.
7. Telescopic magnet.. (best tool in the world)


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

RamRod said:


> I'm almost finished putting this all back together. I'm stuck putting the oil return pipe back on the front turbo. The space to work in is making it impossible.. Anyone got any ideas? I think I should of put the damn return pipe on before dropping the turbo back in (doh)....


Yes, the hard part, should be on the turbo prior to dropping it in.


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## RamRod (Apr 28, 2004)

Took me 4 hours to get that on the front turbo..

Anyway its all back together and running well. Thanks for all your help.


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## Sub Boy (Jan 28, 2008)

frostmotorsport said:


> oh I geddit now. Was actually funny, I just had a senior moment sorry
> 
> yeah, crank sprocket ate the teeth off my HKS cambelt (only 40k old!) and the cams stopped but the pistons kept on coming!!
> 
> I'm 95% certain once the heads off I'm going to hook the block out for a light freshen anyway - but I need to see how stuffed the head and how much it's going to cost to fix - as it may be cheaper to throw a whole 2nd hand engine in (there are some freshly rebuilt ones for sale here in NZ for not a great deal of money!!)


Will be selling the one out of my car in about 6mths when the RB30 goes in....


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## frostmotorsport (Aug 10, 2007)

PM me when you get round to it cos I may still be interested... having said that I am still struggling to get my head off (more lack of time than anything else...) to take it to the engine builder to be checked.

current issue is I don't seem to be able to access the intake head bolts as the cam is in the way.... ?? Got HKS S1 cams, but they can't be that much fatter than standard cams can they?


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## speedr33per (Apr 19, 2007)

frostmotorsport said:


> current issue is I don't seem to be able to access the intake head bolts as the cam is in the way.... ?? Got HKS S1 cams, but they can't be that much fatter than standard cams can they?


just remove the camshafts then mate?


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## blue34 (Jul 28, 2005)

RamRod said:


> 7. Telescopic magnet.. (best tool in the world)


Agreed - I have one with an LED light in the middle of the magnet! I got it at a sunday market.


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## RamRod (Apr 28, 2004)

group buy?


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