# HKS adjustable actuators ENGLISH instructions



## JISMO77 (May 4, 2006)

Hi there, 

has anybody got the English instructions for the HKS adjustable actuators for Skyline GTR?(part no: 1430-RN001) I've just received my new ones from RHD Japan but they have Jap instructions.

Cheers


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## T.F.S. (Feb 5, 2004)

these are the actuators with threadded arms?

you simply turn the arm to get more boost, use a footpump to set them up


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## JISMO77 (May 4, 2006)

*thanks*



T.F.S. said:


> these are the actuators with threadded arms?
> 
> you simply turn the arm to get more boost, use a footpump to set them up


Yes, they have the threaded arms. They are the 1.2barg actuators. The instructions have a diagram showing a measurement from the hole in the arm (where pin goes) to the actuator itself but of course, it's in Japanese. I assume you just fit the arms so there is no slack on the turbo bypass valve. I'll be fitting them to the standard turbos but without a boost controller.

Does that restrictor (black pipe with yellow stripe on D/S of engine bay near suspension turret) need removing? I want the maximum safe boost if possible.

Thanks for the help :thumbsup:


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## T.F.S. (Feb 5, 2004)

if you dont run a boost controller then remove the restrictor and set the actuators up with a footpump, you want to see them opening at about 0.6 bar and fully open by 1-1.2 bar (depending on what boost pressure you want to run)

the more you tighten/adjust the actuator arm the less wastegate control you have

if you post a pic of the instructions someone may be able to traslate it for you but its a pretty siple operation IMO


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

Wastegate operation 

Diagram










The tighter the rods, the more base boost you should have. You need to balance them to make the pressure where they start to move to be as close as possible. Helps with everthing in the long run.


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## JISMO77 (May 4, 2006)

Hi, thanks for that. I've wanted a diagram like that for ages


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## kismetcapitan (Nov 25, 2005)

tyndago said:


> Wastegate operation
> 
> Diagram
> 
> ...


I like that diagram. It was a roadmap to tell me which hard pipes to remove. None of those lines exist on my car. A hose from the plenum nipple feeds my Apexi boost solenoid, which then goes to a T-fitting and equal-length hoses, one to each wastegate.

I had a lot of fun ripping out those pipes, although they are all brazed on at some point, requiring some yanking and pulling (engine head was off for this exercise in simplification).


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## JISMO77 (May 4, 2006)

I had a good look at the Jap instructions and it seems that you can set the actuator pressure to either 0.8bar, 1.0bar, or 1.2 bar. There is a table with measurements on it which relate to the distance between the hole where the pin goes and the main unit itself. There are 3 measurements which correspond to the above 3 pressures. Should make setting them up easy. 

To fit them, I'm guessing you need 2 new gaskets for the turbo (air) exits ready, then remove the discharge pipes which are between turbos and intercooler. After that it looks like it's just 2 bolts for each actuator plus a vacuum pipe and a pin for the ends of the rods. Oh and remove that restrictor in pipe with yellow band on it. Then the actuators should prevent boost going above their set pressure. Correct????


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

I prefer to minimize the lengths of the lines. I prefer to minimize the number of connectors. I prefer to make everything as simple and as visible as possible. 

The Japanese still do some really wacky things with the vacuum lines. Don't copy what they do. They seem to make the lines as long as possible, and add as many connectors in places where failure means things like a loss of rising rate fuel pressure. 

I have seen way, way too many vacuum lines blow off in my life. Nothing like losing rising rate to the top of your fuel regulator and going 15:1 A/F.

I like going direct either off the bottom of the collector , or off the balance tube. I use steel braided and AN fittings when I can.


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