# After an R35



## DaveGTR (Jul 4, 2013)

Hi everyone.

I’m new to the forum and currently
in the market for an R35.

Spec needs to be…..

latest interior.
Recaro edition.
Katsura Orange.
20,000 miles approx.
2017/18 model year.

I’m keeping my eye on auto trader everyday, but if anyone knows some one on here looking to sell, or anywhere else I should be looking, I would be interested to hear

Thanks in advance.

Regards.

Dave.


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## JMacca1975 (Feb 2, 2016)

Probably worth checking on here and pistonheads too, and giving an idea of your budget and if you’re averse to it already being modded in any way👍🏻😎


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## Jon_H (Dec 4, 2017)

GTr prices are sky high just now

fyi wbac are offering more now than what I paid my 17 car 4 years ago!


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## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

There's plenty coming through the car auctions recently. Keep an eye on bca if your brave enough to buy out of there.


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## DaveGTR (Jul 4, 2013)

DaveGTR said:


> Hi everyone.
> 
> I’m new to the forum and currently
> in the market for an R35.
> ...





JMacca1975 said:


> Probably worth checking on here and pistonheads too, and giving an idea of your budget and if you’re averse to it already being modded in any way👍🏻😎


Hi.
Budget is about £70k.
If modded, then I would only want one with a stage 2.


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## DaveGTR (Jul 4, 2013)

Skint said:


> There's plenty coming through the car auctions recently. Keep an eye on bca if your brave enough to buy out of there.


Hi.
No, not brave enough to get one from auction to be fair.


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## Reano (Oct 1, 2015)

DaveGTR said:


> Hi.
> Budget is about £70k.
> If modded, then I would only want one with a stage 2.


Why stage 2 and not stage 4? Just for knowledge


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## DaveGTR (Jul 4, 2013)

Reano said:


> Why stage 2 and not stage 4? Just for knowledge


Hi there.
I don’t want a GTR that’s been modified to much, I would be concerned about reliability issues.
So, a standard car or Stage 2 would be good for me.


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## Reano (Oct 1, 2015)

GTR’s are fairly solid. Stage 2 vs 4 not that much difference but no worries


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## Bradbird (9 mo ago)

Reano said:


> GTR’s are fairly solid. Stage 2 vs 4 not that much difference but no worries


Hi all I'm also looking for an r35 and was concerned about reliability in highly modded examples. For example the bellhousing ? Can the Litchfield bellhousing cope with the extra torque?


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## Reano (Oct 1, 2015)

What level you talking about?

Most of the good GTR houses will have details of all that's been done. Bell housing is more annoying (noise) that should already be sorted. The bigger concern for reliability is what has been done on the transmission. That's where most of the failure points are going to be (assuming the engine sorted).

From what I have seen there appears to be 3 distinct points (with many increments between) that you need to be concerned with.

1) FOB (full bolt on) stage 4.25 this can be done on stock internals and depending if you get a larger intercooler at this point is good for 650 - 690 bhp and c640 lb/ft torque.
2) Anything with torque above 650 and bhp above 750bhp its time to look at getting the transmission looked at and engine. Its at this point where the big money starts.
3) 1300 bhp and above its time to start to think about engine brace/cradle, etc and really really big money comes in.

item 2) above is where you need to consider as many components as you can to strengthen the drive train. For example look at Linney transmission page here https://www.linneytuning.com/product-category/nissan-gtr-transmission/ (view all the pages) If buying a car compare what they have done against this or the equivalents e.g. they may have a PPG gear set vs what's here or different equivalent clutch but either way. The more of these done the more reliable it will be as there are different failure points that could occur per car. Also for item 2 you need at least the rods and pistons done. See here for basic info. Engine Upgrades | Litchfield Motors of course some other specialists like Race Junky will do this to as good spec but for better price (mention Ray if you go to him).

So at this stage the more torque you have the more of the list above you want to see on your car.

If you start going beyond 1300bhp and torque above 800 then for me it starts to compromise the road car experience but that's just me. The ideal top of the line for good road and track is c1000 bhp and 800 torque. Just a quote from dimitri. He says above this its too scary if driven to its full capability (on the road) and if you aint going to do that then why have it?

So in a nutshell the car 'can' be just as reliable as stock and even more so in some cases as you can engineer out some of the weaknesses in the stock GTR. We have had lots of people go over 100k so they are usually pretty good.

Hope this helps (just saying from experience).


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## Bradbird (9 mo ago)

Thanks that's really helpful .I was a passenger in a stock 550 bhp car and that was scary enough !


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## DaveGTR (Jul 4, 2013)

Great info there guys.
But, to be honest, stock is all i need to be fair.
Currently have a C63 W204.
I drive that like Miss Daisy most of the time, but, when I want to have a bit of fun, there’s plenty of power there to make me think holy shit this is good…!!!!!
So, as I say, a stock car will suit me just fine Thankyou.


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## Reano (Oct 1, 2015)

stock is slow nowadays  like you mentioned before buy one stage 2 or 4 best for the road


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## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

Is there any performance figures anywhere to compare a std car against a stage 4?


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## DaveGTR (Jul 4, 2013)

Bradbird said:


> Hi all I'm also looking for an r35 and was concerned about reliability in highly modded examples. For example the bellhousing ? Can the Litchfield bellhousing cope with the extra torque?


Good luck with your search, I would say spend as much as you can afford on one.
There are some lovely examples out there & ones I would defo not go any where near.


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## GTS20s (Oct 7, 2008)

I looked at a few before I bought mine. I didn't really care if it was stock or 4.25, I just wanted to get one that wasn't rusty underneath which proved harder than I taught, especially for a CBA.


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## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

Whatever you choose, get it inspected or take it to a facility where you can get the undertrays off for inspection.


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