# Quick Link Plugin ECU question (R33 GTR)



## D-Ranged (Aug 16, 2007)

Do i need to buy anything else to make the above ECU work with my GTR or should it literally be, plug and play?


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## Brains (Jul 6, 2010)

You might need a little hose for the map sensor.


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## 800bhp (Nov 11, 2010)

IAT Sensor 

and also a MAP sensor if you want to run over 1.5bar


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## Brains (Jul 6, 2010)

800bhp said:


> IAT Sensor
> 
> and also a MAP sensor if you want to run over 1.5bar


What's wrong with the rb26 iat sensor?


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## RXXXIV (Sep 3, 2007)

If you buy the plug in board you will need an ECU case to put the board in.


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## blue34 (Jul 28, 2005)

One thing worth mentioning with the link Plugin is on the 34GTR you need to re-wire the power supply to the air-con relay to an ignition switched supply otherwise it and therefore the magnet on the air con pulley will remain powered up on switch off and it will drain the battery. Worth checking with Link.


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## DrGtr (Jul 18, 2009)

not really a plug and play it took me 2 days to sort out everything and still is not working 100% as i want to. i recommend you to buy the xs loom and use some extra sensors, like fuel pressure and oil for safety you need a wideband sensor to start the car and tune it and then dont forget to calibrate everything before you start. iat sensor you dont need the stock is ok i didnt change mine. use a map sensor if you dont have.


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## RXXXIV (Sep 3, 2007)

Also there is a problem with the AWD system if a Link is used on an R34 GTR. This is not shown in the Link manual under "known issues" yet as Link didn't know about it. It has to do with the TPS voltage being sent to AWD and MFD. I am not talking the known issue with throttle % being displayed by roughly a half only on the MFD!


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## FakeThinkpad (Apr 30, 2011)

RXXXIV said:


> Also there is a problem with the AWD system if a Link is used on an R34 GTR. This is not shown in the Link manual under "known issues" yet as Link didn't know about it. It has to do with the TPS voltage being sent to AWD and MFD. I am not talking the known issue with throttle % being displayed by roughly a half only on the MFD!


What kind of AWD issues are we talking about here? ie. not working at all?

Read a lot of posts lately regarding the problematics of installing a Link on a R34 GT-R, AC Relay and TPS seem to be the main issues and regarding the TPS the Link manual says, 

"On some GTR and 4WD models a warning light may be displayed on the dash. This may be due to the value of the ECUs TPS Out signal level being too low. A solution to this is to slightly rotate the TPS to increase the closed throttle voltage. Remember to do a TPS cal after moving the TPS."

Would the extreme version and adapter loom make for a easier installation then the plug-in which obviously isent plug-in at all to be honest.


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## RXXXIV (Sep 3, 2007)

It is plug in regarding fitting into a standard ECU case, but not really regarding it's functions to be honest. In an R34 GTR installing it will make your MFD read wrong figures. Injector duty and throttle position this is. Injector can be solved by rewiring to another ECU pin. Throttle position needs modifying too. On the R34 GTR this will sort the trottle reading but still not give enough voltage output at full throttle for the AWD to know. So the resistor packs on the Link board are wrong. Link has been made aware of that now by us german R34 GTR owners that are running Link ECU. Let's see what they come up with...


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## FakeThinkpad (Apr 30, 2011)

So basically the low voltage on the TPS signal means the Atessa doesn***8217;t put enough torque to the front when putting the foot down.

Have you had any response from Link on this so far?

I´m quite interested as I was planning on buying one of these for my R34 GT-R today, but this has got me thinking of either waiting or go for another ECU.


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## greyBnr32 (Aug 29, 2006)

Subscribed! I have a Link plug and play ecu on my R34 gtr


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## [email protected] M/S (Feb 16, 2002)

If it is going in a 33GTR and you want to have multi boost maps you need the little extra loom to allow DIG 5 and 6 inputs to be used.

You also need a MAC valve to have boost control unless you have a MAC valve from your old boost controller.

Stock ECT and IAT sensors are all okay.

You can run fuel pressure and oil pressure inputs if you want , these will require running.

When you set up the ECU parameters you can switch the CEL on with high/low water temp and the same with other inputs to give you a warning light but the plug n play board desnt have built in knock control , you either need a separate knock box or run a Extreme with a conversion loom.

ECU works great with some good mapping. The GTR needs mapping differently to how LINK set the ECU map up though to help with part throttle mapping.



RXXXIV said:


> It is plug in regarding fitting into a standard ECU case, but not really regarding it's functions to be honest. In an R34 GTR installing it will make your MFD read wrong figures. Injector duty and throttle position this is. Injector can be solved by rewiring to another ECU pin. Throttle position needs modifying too. On the R34 GTR this will sort the trottle reading but still not give enough voltage output at full throttle for the AWD to know. So the resistor packs on the Link board are wrong. Link has been made aware of that now by us german R34 GTR owners that are running Link ECU. Let's see what they come up with...


What do you see low torque to the front wheels on the dyno or just a low front torque level on the MFD?


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## DrGtr (Jul 18, 2009)

FakeThinkpad said:


> What kind of AWD issues are we talking about here? ie. not working at all?
> 
> Read a lot of posts lately regarding the problematics of installing a Link on a R34 GT-R, AC Relay and TPS seem to be the main issues and regarding the TPS the Link manual says,
> 
> ...



and i was trying to find out why my HICAS lamp was always on i thought that it had something to do with the negative wire on hicas now i am really mad, so did someone found a good way of solving this? 
i will call them tomorrow to see what they have to say.


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## RXXXIV (Sep 3, 2007)

@Mark
Thanks for your reply mate. I will check for you and get back to you on here as soon as it's done.


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## gtr-loz (Feb 10, 2006)

I have the extreme with adapter loom and it was a pain to be honest all the wires were in the wrong holes for my 33 and they are all white so it's hard to sort out


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## [email protected] M/S (Feb 16, 2002)

Hicas light on I doubt it will be the ECU that will be causing that , more like the steering wire broken or not zero'ed.

I have a 34GTR on the dyno at the moment will re check the front torque level when I run the car in 4wd for final power levels.


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## FakeThinkpad (Apr 30, 2011)

Looking forward to the result Mark, could you also check the TPS and Injector values in the ECU compared to the MFD.


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## [email protected] M/S (Feb 16, 2002)

Injector will read correctly once the wire is moved across to another injector output wire from the ECU.

The TPS yes I will let you know.


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## D-Ranged (Aug 16, 2007)

[email protected] M/S said:


> If it is going in a 33GTR and you want to have multi boost maps you need the little extra loom to allow DIG 5 and 6 inputs to be used.
> 
> You also need a MAC valve to have boost control unless you have a MAC valve from your old boost controller.
> 
> ...


So, would the best option be to go for the Xtreme? It's only going to be for a street car but i want the knock control for safety and getting another separate unit for that just sounds like a pain in the ass if the ECU can do it itself?


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

D-Ranged said:


> So, would the best option be to go for the Xtreme? It's only going to be for a street car but i want the knock control for safety and getting another separate unit for that just sounds like a pain in the ass if the ECU can do it itself?


If you are thinking of the more expesnive unit I would have a look at Syvecs too. I have a feeling that prices are very similar.


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## [email protected] M/S (Feb 16, 2002)

I am just working the prices out between the Syvcs S6 and the Link Extreme.

I think the Syvecs will work out a little cheaper if we use the stock Nissan CAS for the crank position sensor/cam signal.

Both system work well but I am angling towards the S6 at the moment.


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## D-Ranged (Aug 16, 2007)

[email protected] M/S said:


> I am just working the prices out between the Syvcs S6 and the Link Extreme.
> 
> I think the Syvecs will work out a little cheaper if we use the stock Nissan CAS for the crank position sensor/cam signal.
> 
> Both system work well but I am angling towards the S6 at the moment.


OK, and for a street car the Syvecs isnt over kill? I will be running a gt4088r on a 2.6


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## [email protected] M/S (Feb 16, 2002)

no not at all the S6 will work on the stock CAS but it would be better with 36-1 crank trigger/phase sensor set up , like wise the LINK would be better with a 36-1 crank trigger set up but work okay with the stock CAS.


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## [email protected] M/S (Feb 16, 2002)

RXXXIV said:


> @Mark
> Thanks for your reply mate. I will check for you and get back to you on here as soon as it's done.


Throttle only shows 55% on MFD when the pedal is at 100% but I think I can sort this with a MFD reset

Injector numbers work correctly after being re wired.

4wd look like it is working correctly;

Car 4wd's like a normal 34GTR car on the dyno.











Remember the car doesnt see any G sensor load on the dyno so it wont 4wd as much.


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## FakeThinkpad (Apr 30, 2011)

Mark, interested to see the result of re-calibrating the TPS on the MFD, please keep us posted. other then that I thank you for your work and for eliminating problems with the Link, looks like I will be ordering one tomorrow.


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## Corsa1 (Sep 8, 2003)

Why would you go to all that troble of fitting a syvecs and then leave the cas on.


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## D-Ranged (Aug 16, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> Why would you go to all that troble of fitting a syvecs and then leave the cas on.


Where does that stop though? You could then say - "Why go to all the trouble of fitting the Syvecs, the CAS and not stroking the engine?"

Do i really need a different CAS if I'm not revving past 8000?


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## RXXXIV (Sep 3, 2007)

Let us know the results of your investigation please Mark. Thanks for sharing this with us and thanks for your time, it's appreciated.

I haven't had the chance to check with my R34 GTR yet, but still hoping to get this done some time soon.


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## RXXXIV (Sep 3, 2007)

Let us know the results of your investigation please Mark. Thanks for sharing this with us and thanks for your time, it's appreciated.

I haven't had the chance to check with my R34 GTR yet, but still hoping to get this done some time soon.


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## greyBnr32 (Aug 29, 2006)

Mark
Thank you for taking the time and sharing the information you find. Subscribed to this one as I have a Link on my R34.


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## car32 (Oct 12, 2003)

im working on a 33gtr at the moment with a link pnp,it has a intemitent 4wd problem.
flash codes say tps.
i have tried the tps at all different postions and swapped tps sensor off another 33gtr without any problems.
all wires are good checked and double checked,tried connecting straght to pins without plug.

and still the same,it can run for miles without issue then light comes on,or it can be on from start up 

any ideas???


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## [email protected] M/S (Feb 16, 2002)

car32 said:


> im working on a 33gtr at the moment with a link pnp,it has a intemitent 4wd problem.
> flash codes say tps.
> i have tried the tps at all different postions and swapped tps sensor off another 33gtr without any problems.
> all wires are good checked and double checked,tried connecting straght to pins without plug.
> ...


Check the TPS voltage @ the 4wd ECU , see if this is the same voltage as read at the TPS , seen a few 33GTR with high resistance in the TPS wire to the 4wd ECU that will cause the fault you have said above.


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## car32 (Oct 12, 2003)

cheers mark ill give it a go tomorrow.


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## [email protected] M/S (Feb 16, 2002)

Had a look into the MFD showing only 52% throttle even thou the throttle pedal is pushed to the floor , we have measured the TPS voltage @ the MFD and that reads the same as the TPS voltage.

There is a way to re configure the Throttle MFD signal , we tried this on the car we had in for remapping work and it wouldn't reset the full throttle postion , the procedure is below so if someone else could try to reset there throttle on the MFD I would be greatly appreciated.











The 34GTR drove really well was definitely 4wd properly.




[email protected] said:


> Why would you go to all that troble of fitting a syvecs and then leave the cas on.


Andy , I agree but to fit a 36-1 and a phase sensor set up is time and money, the base knock control on the S6 is awesome so I feel the S6 running the stock CAs will be good enough for a car not running massive boost and RPM.

Just trying to work out what the best way for customers to go Link Extreme or S6 ECU's


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## car32 (Oct 12, 2003)

got my 4wd sorted,thanks mark.


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## RXXXIV (Sep 3, 2007)

What have you done then?

Could you please share?

Could be of help for others on here.

Cheers


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## DrGtr (Jul 18, 2009)

i went it to the recalibration mode step one with depressed pedal is ok but when i step on full throttle and press the stick it doesnt go to the 3rd step and the check engine light comes on what should the problem is?


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## car32 (Oct 12, 2003)

was a bad earth in the engine bay,the main engine earth and ecu harness were earthed together.
when engine was started it was causing some strange voltages and bringing the 4wd light on.also the boot was damp and had some condensatioin under the boot lid,i took a look at the ecu plugs and some had sighns of slight corrosion.
gave them a spray with contact cleaner and dried the boot with fan heater.


all good so far.
i just needed a new direction to look in,car has not run for some time and boot area had not been touched while engine swap was done.
i was convinced the prob was the engine ecu harness so spent most of my time checking around there.
t51kai starting to boost in 2wd makes for a very interesting expierience


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## [email protected] M/S (Feb 16, 2002)

DrGtr said:


> i went it to the recalibration mode step one with depressed pedal is ok but when i step on full throttle and press the stick it doesnt go to the 3rd step and the check engine light comes on what should the problem is?



been looking into this today ourselves the last 3 34GTR's we had in with Link G4's fitted they all have the same issue.

We looked at the wiring on these car's it seems the MFD uses the output voltage from the ECU (to the 4WD ECU) but when you measure this voltage it reads around 3.5+volts so should show 100% throttle, we feel as the voltage isnt what the MFD should see it wont let you carry out the re learn procedure, we need to carrying on looking a this problem , we may re-wire the MFD to read TPS input voltage and see what this produces.


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## DrGtr (Jul 18, 2009)

does it have the same problem with the extreme unit? or is it just with the plug in?


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## [email protected] M/S (Feb 16, 2002)

Not used a Extreme on a R34GTR but I would imagine it will be the same if it is wired the same as a G4 PNP.

A stock ECU has a separate output for the 4WD TPS voltage ECU input where as the Link just T's into the TPS input into the ECU. This is th problem we are trying to work around.

If we could configure an map to output a TPS voltage that feed the 4WD ECU and the MFD I am sure this will cure the problem. I think we could do this on the Extreme but I think we would run out of maps on a G4PNP especially if your like me tune the fuelling on RPM versus THROTTLE with boost compensation, Ignition boost versus RPM again with 4D throttle compensation and with speed compensation on both fuel and ignition 2 or 3 levels of boost control it is very easy to run out of maps on the PNP ecu.


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## DrGtr (Jul 18, 2009)

Mark i am sorting out the over heating problem of the fuel by adding a surge tank and sorting out some wiring with g4 i will be adding the xs loom to add fuel pressure sensor and oil pressure and few other sensors once we have sorted everything including the hicas issues of the tps signal problem i will be book you a ticket for Cyprus.


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## DrGtr (Jul 18, 2009)

so did anyone found the solution yet?


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## [email protected] M/S (Feb 16, 2002)

Yes all sorted small amount of work required to ECU board. Email me for diagrams.


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## DrGtr (Jul 18, 2009)

email sent to both of your emails


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## RXXXIV (Sep 3, 2007)

So what was the solution then?

I assume you've modified/changed the resistor packs on the Link board, is that correct?

If so, which setup did you go for?

I feel Link needs to sort this out for all R34 GTR owners that have bought the Link plugin ECU already as it clearly is not a P&P solution for our cars with regards to its functions.


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## [email protected] M/S (Feb 16, 2002)

It is a easy job and to be honest I don't think it is worth the hassle to ship the ECU back to Link in NZ to have this simple job sorted, you don't need to buy any resistors.


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## RXXXIV (Sep 3, 2007)

So can I send you my Link ECU then and have you carry out the modification Mark? If there are no parts needed and it's that simple it certainly won't take you that long to do it, right? Obviously I am willing to pay a little something for that, no probs.

What exactly will be sorted after you've done the modification?

The potential AWD problem due to the TPS voltage?

Or will my MFD also read and monitor correct TPS % then?

If so, there is only the injector monitoring problem left on the MFD which I can sort out myself by swapping the wire to another pin.

Let me know please mate. PM is fine too if you prefer. Thanks!


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## [email protected] M/S (Feb 16, 2002)

What exactly will be sorted after you've done the modification?

The potential AWD problem due to the TPS voltage? never any problem

Or will my MFD also read and monitor correct TPS % then? Yes this will work all okay

If so, there is only the injector monitoring problem left on the MFD which I can sort out myself by swapping the wire to another pin. You need to Tee the MFD injector into 1 of the 6 injector wiring.

Yes please send me the ECU wont charge you anything bare the shipping.


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## RXXXIV (Sep 3, 2007)

Thanks for your reply Mark, appreciate you taking the time.

I will send you my ECU as soon as I get the time to drive over to my Garage and take it out. Could be a few days or even weeks though as moving house at the moment.

Will get in touch mate. Cheers


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## DrGtr (Jul 18, 2009)

I did the fix with removing all 3 resistors as described then i have made r1 and r3 to 0r, and joined the the r1 with r3 the result was that i could calibrate the tps on the mfd but then other problem have arise , the 4wd and vspec diff was fully locked and full 4wd function when the car was at stop then after a bit of speed it was both releasing just to get the pic it was like both systems where working opposite way, then i opened the ecu again and disconnected the connection between the r1 and r3 and just left r1 and r3 with 0r and the r2 left it open without any connection with this way i cannot calibrate the mfd again and the systems does not work again as before at least with this way the car is not locked and for the fist time i had the 4wd and lsd lights on for few minuets then when off, now the only lamp i have is the hicas and this was since i have used link ecu, i am very disappointed this is definitely not a plug and play, is an ecu which doesnt even function correctly on the car i am very disappointed after spending almost 3000pounds stay away people from link ecu.

Mark did you found any of this problems??


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## DrGtr (Jul 18, 2009)

got it right this time, the wire on the r1 was not closing the circuit by the person who did the jop i have opened the ecu again and found the problem now is working properly and the mfd is showing just had to recalibrate on link program the tps cause after i did the mfd the ecu got a bit mixed up, only the HICAS Lamp is still on does anyone knows the reason? on diagnostic mode is telling me the errors 24,25 i think.


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## DrGtr (Jul 18, 2009)

does anyone have problems with the cas signal? car is running fine but i can see that the revs are playing a bit especially after 5000-6000rpm, if we use the aem 24-1 trigger disc will it fix the problem? or maybe a diode? 

Also can anyone sent me the correct base map for the rb26 to compare to what i am running with the ignition??


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## anthonymcgrath (Feb 22, 2005)

How are these for the 32gtr? Same issues or a little simpler?


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## D-Ranged (Aug 16, 2007)

anthonymcgrath said:


> How are these for the 32gtr? Same issues or a little simpler?


I think the only problem people have is the crank trigger signal on higher than 7-8k rpm is a bit dodgy but there are kits to fix this.

I have just bought one for my R33 and cant wait to get it on


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