# Which year GTR to buy?



## iDeactivate (Mar 16, 2020)

Hello all, I'm new to this forum. I'm looking to buy an R35 GT-R but I'm just wondering on your opinions on which year to get. 

I've been told to avoid 2009/2010 models and go for a 2012+ 

I think I'm looking for a 2013/14 model but people say the ride quality isn't great but is it a rough as people say it is? Does the comfort mode make much of a difference?

I could go for a 2017+ but I personally prefer the look of the DBA model's exterior although the 2017's interior is much nicer.

Just wondering on peoples thoughts really, 

thanks!


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## Gtr_isy (Oct 3, 2014)

Just go for the best you can afford mate. I used an 09 as a daily for 5 years and covered nearly 40k. Change the run flats and ride quality for a car of this calibre is more than acceptable.


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## TREG (May 20, 2004)

Owned my 2009 35 for 7.5 years with never an issue. Certainly some of the earlier cars had gearbox issues but very few compared to how many were made. 
I certainly wouldn't shy away from a 2009 car even now


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## Uzzy_GTR (Aug 22, 2018)

The first generation are now looking a bit dated so anything 2014 onwards I would say.


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## Taz6665 (Jun 29, 2014)

Sent you a PM


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## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

I would buy the newest car you can afford, repairs are expensive and they have rust issues now.


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## dazzler1 (Nov 15, 2004)

Hi, my white 13 plate is for sale, zero rust lol, and in mint condition. It's in the for sale section of the site. 😉
Ride quality is fine, and the comfort mode does soften it up a little for sure. Hope that helps


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## dazzler1 (Nov 15, 2004)

Erm, sorry, just realised this is the for sale section hahahaha doh!!


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## archan (Apr 25, 2019)

Personally I'd go with a new enough car to be able to get full insurance for engine, transmission and so on. Here in Sweden that translates to car at max age 8 years for "cheap" insurance or 10 years if you are willing to pay x2 for the insurance.
I'd say MY15+ to also get the "Usain Bolt" lights and some wigggle room for re-sale with insurance.


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## SKNAM (Nov 30, 2018)

I deliberately went for a CBA model (earlier years - mine is a 60 plate) as I prefer the rawness compared to the newer models. I also think they look better than the DBA models as they don't have the DRL's or the overly fussy rented rear bumper. I do like the latest model styling but definitely not the synthesised exhaust sounds and valve flap exhaust......no, no, no....


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## iDeactivate (Mar 16, 2020)

SKNAM said:


> I deliberately went for a CBA model (earlier years - mine is a 60 plate) as I prefer the rawness compared to the newer models. I also think they look better than the DBA models as they don't have the DRL's or the overly fussy rented rear bumper. I do like the latest model styling but definitely not the synthesised exhaust sounds and valve flap exhaust......no, no, no....


Do you use your CBA model as a daily? I know each person has their own opinion of what's considered a rough ride so I'm curious on your thoughts? Also do you have to service your 60 plate every 6 months instead of 12 due to being an older model? Thanks!


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## iDeactivate (Mar 16, 2020)

Gtr_isy said:


> Just go for the best you can afford mate. I used an 09 as a daily for 5 years and covered nearly 40k. Change the run flats and ride quality for a car of this calibre is more than acceptable.


Thanks for the reply mate! I can afford a 12-15 plate for sure. I could maybe stretch for the 17 model but it might break the bank a bit more and I'm not sure if the changes they made make it worthwhile. Cool to hear you use your 09 as a daily, I think each person has their own view of what a rough ride is so I think I'm overthinking that aspect of the car.


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## TREG (May 20, 2004)

iDeactivate said:


> Do you use your CBA model as a daily? I know each person has their own opinion of what's considered a rough ride so I'm curious on your thoughts? Also do you have to service your 60 plate every 6 months instead of 12 due to being an older model? Thanks!


There is no need to service the car on the earlier models every 6 months but some owners still do to keep the service history up to date. 
I did mine every 6 months to help with the re-sale but it wasnt essential as the engines are the same as the later models.


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## SKNAM (Nov 30, 2018)

The ride is OK on my 2010 model, that's on Cup 2's so not runflats. I find it pretty good, can be jittery at low speeds/bumpy roads but it feels planted all the time and very direct. Smooth on motorways and settled on A roads.

I do use mine as a daily and it's never let me down since I've owned it (about 18 months). I service it every 6 months and it's been very reliable. I'm VERY meticulous in ensuring its 100%. 

It is also more practical than I first thought - it does the school runs, big weekly shop etc. Ground clearance is low though so I avoid roads with those square but raised rubbery speed humps. Don't want to scuff the undertrays or exhaust....

A big ticket item is the bellhousing (which can be an engine out job if the studs snap on the turbo, so more like 2/2.5k to change rather than 1k) - new cars won't need it, mid model year cars might need it, older models tend to have had it replaced. Can need doing more than once, but it seems to be pot luck. Mine had no noise but had in/out play, so I got it changed. I'd definitely get it checked on 11-15 plate cars as these are probably in the zone for a replacement, and might explain why their prices are often not much more % wise than the older 09/10 models?? Rear brakes too can last for quite a bit (40k mikes) so might need replacing on some cars you view. There's 1k again.

Best advice is to buy on condition. Sounds obvious but you really do have to use your head as well as your heart when buying one of these


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## gtr mart (Mar 29, 2004)

Find a good cba and you're in good shape. I have no issues with the ride of mine tbh. If you're expecting rolls Royce smoothness then any gtr is likely to be a shock although I believe the ebas are meant to ride pretty softly. 

Just look for the best car you can, base your decision on condition, budget, looks and level of tune.


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## justintian (Aug 7, 2015)

I am in the same boat, and I really think the My17 is possible the best choice since you can do PCP at current low interest rate, plus the residual value is really quite good in comparison to the likes of 2017 c63s coupe or M4 cs... MY2012 is still at 38-42K which is astonishing.


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## Takamo (Oct 18, 2005)

Go for the 19 car if its within your budget, the 19 is even more refined than the 17,I've had both and the 19 car feels stronger and the suspension feels more on point. I watched a YouTube video done by Nissan and they talk about the 19 car being the best they have made, apparently they have changed the ecu, suspension and tweaked the stock map so it put the power down better. The suspension and power bit i can confirm is definitely better, also they have changed the rear number plate lights to white led modules and it comes with apple play. I'll see if I can find the link and I'll post it up.


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## smoggy12345 (Aug 4, 2013)

Had an 09 (non nav) Daily for 4.5years (Still got it). Never missed a beat - genuinely the most reliable car i've owned. I've only serviced every 12 months (at a recommendation from Litchfield AND Evotune) due to only doing max 4k miles a year. The car is identical to the My12+ cars that are 10k/12month servicing except a gearbox cooler and some other refinements. I suppose the thing to consider is changing gearbox fluids way more often if you track etc... on the older models. A very large majority of the Gearbox issues you hear about are from the US and very early 08 cars. MY09 is the most 'Raw' from what I understand and with runflats the car wasn't a nice drive...a change to Michellin Supersports made a night and day difference and is acceptable as a daily. the Earlier cars are a bargain and I don't see an issue with them. It would be hard to get a warranty with them but i wouldn't want one anyway. The cost of 2yrs warranty (probably over £5k) is way higher than 95% of the repair solutions if anything went wrong - the engine being the exception. If the 'box goes it's in the region of £3k to repair at a reputable indy....The way I approached this is to keep a slush fund in an account incase of such issues. Doing this, and not having any problems in 4.5yrs, has effectively saved me £2400+ a year in warranties! There are some cracking examples on Autotrader just now for £30k .....You just simply cannot beat this bang/buck. As a trade sale you could safely assume you'd get £1k to £2k off aswell....especially in the current situation!


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