# RB26 vs. RB28 vs. RB30 consensus



## xDamonWolfx (Sep 2, 2016)

I've been meaning to try and make a comprehensive comparison regarding the RB26, a stroked RB28, and an RB30.

Each has its pros, cons, sweet spots, and most suitable application.

I want to obtain more context and information about the more technical side of these setups. Mostly out of curiosity but also to help with some potential choices in the near future for my build (or builds at this rate). I am also aware of these units being used in extreme HP applications, this is more of a reasonable target. Say anywhere from 550 to 900 at the wheels to help get some point of power/torque reference.

Opinions are encouraged so long as they are conductive and help give greater insight into this subject.

Now from what I've gathered, this is the following general consensus.

[RB26]
-Convenient
-Cost Effective in most applications
-Good up to 550-600hp on stock internals
-Can be laggy with large turbo/boost applications.
-Structurally built to withstand most abuse (within reason)

[RB28]
-More optimal power curve
-Better/improved response in low/mid-range
-Costs are higher by 4-7k depending on.
-Usable with a stock block, making it somewhat convenient.
-Structurally built to withstand most abuse as above

[RB30]
-Best low/mid-range out of the three
-Lower RPMs needed, thus improving parts life
-Costs can vary and must be acquired through a broker in the states, which is not as convenient.
-Requires adapter for AWD applications. It is the heaviest out of the three
-Older block structural integrity is of greater concern in more situations (AWD especially).

Now, this isn't a PRO/CON that I'm listing, more of a "Generally accepted fact," if you will. I understand that I can be (and expect to be wrong) on a few of these, hence bringing up this entire discussion.

For instance, I know that price-wise, the RB30 and the Stroked RB26 are similar in price point. However, if we were to look at it from a Price per-litre perspective, the RB30 would be a more viable option. This is the sort of thing I wish to address (examples of this will be linked below)

If possible, what I'd like to achieve is a general "this is the deal with these" along with pros/cons. However, the latter isn't all too necessary, but no less helpful. Along with that, if the information is provided in regards to what's needed to make each unit achieve the 'general goal' above, that too would also be helpful (again, not needed, it's mostly for the purpose of context)

Thank you.

P.S. A poll will be provided for the personal preference of the three units above; again, this is for context.

Links- (take this comparison with a grain of salt)
RB26 Stroker kit: Nitto Performance Engineering Stroker Kit (I-Beam Rods) RB26 2.8L - Raw Brokerage
RB30 w/26 head: Raw Brokerage Pro Built Short Block Stage 1 - RB30DET 700hp - Raw Brokerage


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## RSVFOUR (May 1, 2006)

Just an observation but if the min hp is 550atw you have effectively removed a couple of "your advatages" of the rb26 option

Also I think you need to narrow your aimed for power band and budget quite a bit to get meaningful answers as there are differences between the make of the stroker kits and with an rb30 there are different ways to go.

All I can say is I dont know anyone who has gone back from an RB30 to a smaller motor - so if you are looking at nearer 900 than 550 and budget isnt a consideration surely its a no brainer.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

It all depends by what you mean by each definition. RB26 can be a standard engine or it can be a unit with a fancy block, billet crank, posh pistons and rods blah blah blah.

Without any other information the only difference between an RB26 and an RB28 is that the 28 will have a longer throw crank.

With regards to RB30s they can be achieved with RB30 blocks or with various stroker options and spacer plates (see OSG30 and OD Engines in Aus). or even with custom ally blocks. Also worth considering that the RB30 blocks can then be stroked into RB32/33/34 for yet more capacity.

The big attraction to the RB26 is that it's already in your car (if you have a GTR). As cost is almost always a factor the 26 options is usually the cheapest.

Once you get into RB30s, particularly those with RB30 blocks there are a millions shades of grey. The simple fact is that they will typically require a fair bit of work to make them work in a GTR. Maybe you can do the work but if not you'll have to pay someone else to do it and thus the question of if the money spend is worth the performance gain. That's a choice you have to make and will completely depend on your situation.

If I had unlimited money an ally block running 3,400cc, V-Cam and a worked head would be lovely. Until Bill Gates decides to leave his fortune to me I suspect that that will just be staying a dream...


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## lightspeed (Jul 11, 2002)

The downside to RB30 derivatives is that the underbonnet envelope is altered. 2.8 is a nice compromise on capacity where everything bolts up on the right place.

Besides,power isn't a problem with RB's, gearboxes to take it are.


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## GTRNICK (Apr 29, 2005)

Own an RB30 OSG and I have driven an RB26. RB30 is awesome the torque is immense and much nice to drive on the road.


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## xDamonWolfx (Sep 2, 2016)

Cris said:


> It all depends by what you mean by each definition. RB26 can be a standard engine or it can be a unit with a fancy block, billet crank, posh pistons and rods blah blah blah.
> 
> Without any other information the only difference between an RB26 and an RB28 is that the 28 will have a longer throw crank.
> 
> ...


To be honest, I was not aware that spacer plates/sleeves could be used to increase the throw for an RB26 block. I feel most enlightened by this.


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## FRRACER (Jun 23, 2013)

lightspeed said:


> The downside to RB30 derivatives is that the underbonnet envelope is altered. 2.8 is a nice compromise on capacity where everything bolts up on the right place.
> 
> Besides,power isn't a problem with RB's, gearboxes to take it are.


I'm with Lightspeed on this one. With all the messing around on getting an Australian RB30 into a R32 lot of hacking about is needed, Sump plates and various other adjustments and modifications. A 2.8 Stroker is a great way to increase torque and off boost response but the extra capacity will help spool up turbos faster. It fits in the same way as the 2.6.

Some people chase absolute power and forget about everything else. If you looking for drag power 1400+hp then go ahead and fill your boots.. go for an RB3x


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## R32 Combat (Jan 29, 2004)

FRRACER said:


> I'm with Lightspeed on this one. With all the messing around on getting an Australian RB30 into a R32 lot of hacking about is needed, Sump plates and various other adjustments and modifications.


MMMm, most people with an RB30 buy it built and usually have it fitted for them. Therefore, for the customer there is no more work than buying any other engine configuration.


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## NICKH (Mar 4, 2004)

Why not just go RB26 with V-Cam to pull up the low to mid range torque whilst still retaining the top end rev happy nature of the 2.6?

You also get a lump that ticks over like a standard RB (not cammy and lumpy) with strong mid-range and fireworks at the top end.

This option will ultimately only run to 550-600bhp max (safely) but if your standard RB26 is in good nick (doesn't require a rebuild) then it is a cost effective option.

Having owned 750+bhp OSG RB30 (in an R34) and now a standard spec (fully rebuilt though) RB26 with 2860-7's and V-Cam pushing circa 540bhp I speak from experience.


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## CT17 (Mar 25, 2011)

FRRACER said:


> I'm with Lightspeed on this one. With all the messing around on getting an Australian RB30 into a R32 lot of hacking about is needed, Sump plates and various other adjustments and modifications. A 2.8 Stroker is a great way to increase torque and off boost response but the extra capacity will help spool up turbos faster. It fits in the same way as the 2.6.
> 
> Some people chase absolute power and forget about everything else. If you looking for drag power 1400+hp then go ahead and fill your boots.. go for an RB3x


This is why I am quite a fan of the RB28.
Does make a good road car, even tuned up to 600+bhp.
And it all looks like Nissan intended, on normally located turbos.


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## FRRACER (Jun 23, 2013)

R32 Combat said:


> MMMm, most people with an RB30 buy it built and usually have it fitted for them. Therefore, for the customer there is no more work than buying any other engine configuration.


I wouldn't want a run of the mill RB30 if ever I was to get one, so would do so myself, but with the amount of hacking to get it to fit an R32 it doesn't interest me in the slightest. I don't care about the extra 200cc I don't chase big numbers or want a torque monster. :wavey:


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

R32 Combat said:


> MMMm, most people with an RB30 buy it built and usually have it fitted for them. Therefore, for the customer there is no more work than buying any other engine configuration.


Please correct me if I'm wrong (given you've been there) but I think the RB30 block will fit into the 33 and 34 without trouble but requires the bonnet to be trimmed to fit in a 32 or is it possible to mount it in the 32 without cutting?


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## R32 Combat (Jan 29, 2004)

Cris said:


> Please correct me if I'm wrong (given you've been there) but I think the RB30 block will fit into the 33 and 34 without trouble but requires the bonnet to be trimmed to fit in a 32 or is it possible to mount it in the 32 without cutting?


It is possible to mount the engine so it doesn't foul the R32 bonnet. It's the cam pulley cover that touches using factory engine mounts.


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## Ares (Jul 9, 2013)

Dream engine build for me would be VCam (step 2 or pro) + 28 + EFR + Ebooster + Motec ECU + supporting mods.
From my opinion, this blends the balance of 200cc's down low with newer tech designed to make for a nice smooth power curve to ensure out of corner stability.

It's important to note that my dream build also includes a lot of carbon fibre parts to help shrink weight, a copious amount of footwork and of course upgraded transmission components too - as building a car is about building a car, not just an engine! 

Thing is; how i drive my car on the street, or the track or where-ever is more than likely different to how YOU drive in those places/scenarios, so we'll require different things from our engines and mods.
Add to that; some people will be happy to do a single swap some feel they must retain the twins. Some will go to bigger capacity to look for extra Torque, some will opt for cam work...

It's a very VERY broad question man and to reiterate, even people looking for the same power will do things in different ways - hence why i get weird looks from my friends when talking about a vcam upgrade when in their mind i should just do a single swap and have done with it! 

Hope this helps somehow and you get the information you're after!


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## anthonymcgrath (Feb 22, 2005)

Thought I'd throw my 2hp on here.. I would go for the 28 if I had the money.. as stated midrange and wotnot would be greatly improved and turbos fit without any hassles.

I have the 26.. fully forged.. -5 turbos.. it was good and pulled but sluggish up until 4500 if not a little later if I'm honest.
I had ponscams and pulleys stuck in.. head sorted and advanced 10 deg.. the pull is noticeably improved in the lower and mid rpm. It's a touch lumpier but still super good to drive. I think for a 26 this is a good way to go if the 28 money can't be found.

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## kenecchi (Dec 7, 2014)

Every time I mention the words "RB" and "torque" in the same sentence, my shop's owner starts talking about 2JZ swaps and I stop paying attention. You do have to wonder though, compared to stuff like building a 30 block with a 26 head on it or doing forged internals/vcam/stroker crank on a 26, at what point does a 2JZ become the more cost-effective option.


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## anthonymcgrath (Feb 22, 2005)

kenecchi said:


> Every time I mention the words "RB" and "torque" in the same sentence, my shop's owner starts talking about 2JZ swaps and I stop paying attention. You do have to wonder though, compared to stuff like building a 30 block with a 26 head on it or doing forged internals/vcam/stroker crank on a 26, at what point does a 2JZ become the more cost-effective option.


V true. My mate has a 1jz in his 32gtst with a 3582 on it. Makes about 700 and takes off like a scalded rat. Revs to 9k too with the valvetrain work. He's running a syvecs too so dunno if that offset any potential savings lol.
Let's be honest tho a 2jz engine is pretty much unbeatable.. such an incredible engine.

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## Dan Parker (May 17, 2012)

It definitely depends on what you want ftom your car and what you intended to do with it.
I’m going 2.8 and vcam as I think this is a great all round set up for what I want.
I love the idea of a Rb30/rb32 but think for the track having a slightly heavier engine and having a higher Center of gravity for a track car is not ideal (particularly in a already front heavy R32gtr.
I know to most people including myself you’d probably never notice this but you’d also probably not notice the better low down torque at a track when most of the time you are keeping the revs up.
I’d also like to say that if you’ve not drive a RB26 with a modern single (small precision/small Borg Warner) you may decide that you don’t need a increase in capacity as they are so responsive and quick on boost.
I have a precision 6266 gen 2 on a RB26 and I’m well happy with low down power.
I’m only going 2.8 because I absolutely love Skyline’s and enjoy the experience of trying to make them as ultimate as I can, it’s a passion/obsession for me and I’m sure many others on here.


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## Dan Parker (May 17, 2012)

Dan Parker said:


> It definitely depends on what you want ftom your car and what you intended to do with it.
> I’m going 2.8 and vcam as I think this is a great all round set up for what I want.
> I love the idea of a Rb30/rb32 but think for the track having a slightly heavier engine and having a higher Center of gravity for a track car is not ideal (particularly in a already front heavy R32gtr.
> I know to most people including myself you’d probably never notice this but you’d also probably not notice the better low down torque at a track when most of the time you are keeping the revs up.
> ...


I’d also be keen to know exactly how much heavier and higher the Rb30 is.
Also taking all this into consideration I’d say as a road car/ traffic light hero you can’t beat a rb30


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## anthonymcgrath (Feb 22, 2005)

Dan Parker said:


> I’d also be keen to know exactly how much heavier and higher the Rb30 is.
> Also taking all this into consideration I’d say as a road car/ traffic light hero you can’t beat a rb30


I'd actually like to see how an rb30 set up and a 2.8 with vcam perform in such a situation.. thatd be a good video 

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## Dan ep3 turbo (Sep 29, 2013)

Dan Parker said:


> It definitely depends on what you want ftom your car and what you intended to do with it.
> I’m going 2.8 and vcam as I think this is a great all round set up for what I want.
> I love the idea of a Rb30/rb32 but think for the track having a slightly heavier engine and having a higher Center of gravity for a track car is not ideal (particularly in a already front heavy R32gtr.
> I know to most people including myself you’d probably never notice this but you’d also probably not notice the better low down torque at a track when most of the time you are keeping the revs up.
> ...



If your going to the expense of a 2.8 you might aswell just order a rips rb30 bottom end. It's a great price and he builds the best engines out there for a skyline. You have to ask your self why very well known skyline tuners buy rips engines for there personal cars and not build there own engine when they build plenty off customers engines.

If I was in the market for a engine for a skyline I would buy a engine direct from rips


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## anthonymcgrath (Feb 22, 2005)

Dan ep3 turbo said:


> If your going to the expense of a 2.8 you might aswell just order a rips rb30 bottom end. It's a great price and he builds the best engines out there for a skyline. You have to ask your self why very well known skyline tuners buy rips engines for there personal cars and not build there own engine when they build plenty off customers engines.
> 
> If I was in the market for a engine for a skyline I would buy a engine direct from rips


Rips ain't cheap at the best of times then you gotta pay to have the thing shipped and fitted too maybe? 
Totally agree if I was pretty flush I'd look to this option but I wonder if Anyone can give an idea of cost?

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## Dan ep3 turbo (Sep 29, 2013)

anthonymcgrath said:


> Rips ain't cheap at the best of times then you gotta pay to have the thing shipped and fitted too maybe?
> Totally agree if I was pretty flush I'd look to this option but I wonder if Anyone can give an idea of cost?
> 
> Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk



He's actually very resonable on bottom ends, atleast you no you'll have a engine what will last and not grenade itself after little use


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## Dan Parker (May 17, 2012)

Dan ep3 turbo said:


> He's actually very resonable on bottom ends, atleast you no you'll have a engine what will last and not grenade itself after little use


Agreed, they are reasonably well priced, mark from mgt has a full on rips,nitto 3.2 and even that is going for pretty reasonable money and you can’t get any better than that.
I’d be slight worried buying from rips as if there was a problem he is the other side of the world and don’t know how you’d go about getting it sorted or refunded.
I had a engine built by Norrisdesigns from my pulsar, had a major problem and he completely rebuilt it free of charge.


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## Dan ep3 turbo (Sep 29, 2013)

Dan Parker said:


> Agreed, they are reasonably well priced, mark from mgt has a full on rips,nitto 3.2 and even that is going for pretty reasonable money and you can***8217;t get any better than that.
> I***8217;d be slight worried buying from rips as if there was a problem he is the other side of the world and don***8217;t know how you***8217;d go about getting it sorted or refunded.
> I had a engine built by Norrisdesigns from my pulsar, had a major problem and he completely rebuilt it free of charge.



I can understand that but how many issues have you heard off from rips? None. How many issues have been heard about most uk skyline tuners?...Lots 

The problem is dan people take there cars to tuners for engine buildsthey charge big money for building give you back a rusty old block with new interneals and the workmanship is a lot less quality than a true motorsport engine builder. 

I wouldn't let any off the uk skyline tuners build me a engine I would use a engine builder


You'd be best to go back to Norris for a engine build, atleast he's engine builder is motorsport level


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## diki (Oct 23, 2016)

not lot engine builders give gurantee on 1300whp engines.....


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## Sub Boy (Jan 28, 2008)

Having had a built RB26 for years and going to an RB30.....I would never go back.

I'm not sure what people bitch about fitting an RB30 into a R32, you need to remove a tiny section of the bonnet frame....the bonnet cover hides it anyway!
The torque difference is night and day, it's so much nicer to drive.....and yes, you can still rev it passed 8 grand if you want, but you don't need to stay in the power band.
You make more power while keeping (or in my case improving) the response.....what's not to like.
If money wasn't an option I'd Nitto 3.2lt it with a V-Cam, but especially for NZ/Aus guys an RB30 build is much cheaper than a RB28 stroker.


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## anthonymcgrath (Feb 22, 2005)

Sub Boy said:


> Having had a built RB26 for years and going to an RB30.....I would never go back.
> 
> I'm not sure what people bitch about fitting an RB30 into a R32, you need to remove a tiny section of the bonnet frame....the bonnet cover hides it anyway!
> The torque difference is night and day, it's so much nicer to drive.....and yes, you can still rev it passed 8 grand if you want, but you don't need to stay in the power band.
> ...


Good reply sounds like fun but the prob is here in UK the rb30 is generally quite a tough engine to get hold of really.

I've heard there is a chunk of work to fit them or assemble them?
Isn't there a website somewhere with a comprehensive list of what to do to build an rb30 for the skyline? I remember stumbling across it and stupidly forgot to store the website or email it myself

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## kociek (Jul 18, 2011)

Dan ep3 turbo said:


> If your going to the expense of a 2.8 you might aswell just order a rips rb30 bottom end. It's a great price and he builds the best engines out there for a skyline. You have to ask your self why very well known skyline tuners buy rips engines for there personal cars and not build there own engine when they build plenty off customers engines.
> 
> If I was in the market for a engine for a skyline I would buy a engine direct from rips



Exactly what I have done and I have no regrets. But on another hand RB30 block is higher meaning a lot of manufacturing is not a strait job forward or a quick one but on my on opinion well worth it.
I guess also depends whish kind of driver you are and what you do with the car will determinate what you want for your engine.


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## anthonymcgrath (Feb 22, 2005)

Isn't there a website with a full detailed guide on what needs to be done to an rb30.. I rmemeber reading something about needing to weld a spot for a tensioner when the rb25 (or is it 26?) Goes on?
Anyone know that site? Wouldn't mind reading it again

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## anthonymcgrath (Feb 22, 2005)

http://www.westcoastcruisers.com.au/forums/topic/1623-r32-rb2530det-conversion/

Found this one don't know if its correct?

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## FRRACER (Jun 23, 2013)

All that messing around. No thanks.


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## MGT Motorsport Ltd (Aug 19, 2005)

Dan ep3 turbo said:


> If your going to the expense of a 2.8 you might aswell just order a rips rb30 bottom end. It's a great price and he builds the best engines out there for a skyline. You have to ask your self why very well known skyline tuners buy rips engines for there personal cars and not build there own engine when they build plenty off customers engines.
> 
> If I was in the market for a engine for a skyline I would buy a engine direct from rips






Hi Dan




I bought a RIPS 3.2, not because I could not build my own! Rob and I spoke and he offered me a deal I could not turn down as the motor was for the Project GTST Drag car but unfortunately I did not uses it as I sold the car . I wanted more displacement than 2.8 and, as I did not have a 3ltr block to hand, it was a no brainer to buy the 3.2 from Rob That was why I did not build my own, it was all about the cost. I have built lots of engines over many years and they are out there running very well indeed.


Regards Mark


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## RB28 (Jan 14, 2018)

Ive gone RB28 with Vcam. My goal was slightly different to yours though as I wanted a street car 500-600whp. Im a Sucker for rare JDM & Nismo parts and was worried nothing would fit on a RB26/30. The sound and response on mine actually convinced a friend of mine to build a RB28 over a RB26/30. Like I said to him, There must be a reason Nismo, Mines, MCR etc all used 2.8's:thumbsup:


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## SkylineGTRCy (Dec 14, 2008)

RB28 said:


> Ive gone RB28 with Vcam. My goal was slightly different to yours though as I wanted a street car 500-600whp. Im a Sucker for rare JDM & Nismo parts and was worried nothing would fit on a RB26/30. The sound and response on mine actually convinced a friend of mine to build a RB28 over a RB26/30. Like I said to him, There must be a reason Nismo, Mines, MCR etc all used 2.8's:thumbsup:


Which stroker did you go for mate if I may ask? Nitto?


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## RB28 (Jan 14, 2018)

SkylineGTRCy said:


> Which stroker did you go for mate if I may ask? Nitto?


HKS Step2 2.8 Stroker with Step2 Vcam & GT2860-5's


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## Dave C (Mar 19, 2010)

RB28 said:


> The sound and response on mine actually convinced a friend of mine to build a RB28 over a RB26/30. Like I said to him, There must be a reason Nismo, Mines, MCR etc all used 2.8's:thumbsup:



Need a video of this please


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## RB28 (Jan 14, 2018)

Dave C said:


> Need a video of this please


I will link the video we are currently shooting when its done :thumbsup:


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