# Removing Ball Joints on the rear Steer?



## TheD (Aug 25, 2008)

Hi All,

I am trying to remove the ball joints from the HICAS system to replace with bushes on the Driftworks HICAS eliminator kit. I can't folr the life of me get the ball joint off the hub.

I have unbolted the tie rod end and removed the cap on the other side. I would assume it's an interference fit and needs a good wallop to get it to drop out but it's moved about a mm and thats it? Any suggestions?


----------



## M SKinner (Feb 19, 2007)

Im gonna be doing this job myself before too long.

Taking the upright off the car and having access to a press + the correct drifts makes life easier.

I can PM you the measurements for the drifts if you like!


----------



## TheD (Aug 25, 2008)

M SKinner said:


> Im gonna be doing this job myself before too long.
> 
> Taking the upright off the car and having access to a press + the correct drifts makes life easier.
> 
> I can PM you the measurements for the drifts if you like!


I dont have a press. What are drifts?

Cant feel my fingers now its so bloody cold. One day i will have fiknished fixing this thing :bawling:


----------



## mattysupra (Oct 31, 2008)

ball joint splitter?


----------



## NotoriousREV (Jun 11, 2003)

mattysupra said:


> ball joint splitter?


+patience. Don't hammer the bejebus out of it, you'll damage the uprights.


----------



## TheD (Aug 25, 2008)

I had a little go with a hammer :nervous:

No damage though. going to buy a splitter. Will I need to remove the hubs for that?

Thanks for telling me to be patient, I needed to hear that. So close but so far!


----------



## Simonh (May 24, 2002)

you need a ball joint splitter - hubs don't need to come off to do it, but be careful not to damage the ends of the threads on the ball joint when you do it or you will have to change that to!

Simon


----------



## M SKinner (Feb 19, 2007)

TheD said:


> I dont have a press. What are drifts?
> 
> Cant feel my fingers now its so bloody cold. One day i will have fiknished fixing this thing :bawling:


A drift is a tool that you use to push something in/out with usually. In this case its a set of steel cylinders of various diameters. One supports the boss on the upright, while the other is placed so it pushes the ball joint out with the ram on the press. Another set is used to installing as the sizes are a bit different

Simonh i'm not sure how a ball joint splitter would remove the joint itself from the hub! It would certainly remove the track rod end from the taper on the joint though! As all the ones i've ever used are basically a fork/claw type arrangement for driving between the balljoing and the suspension arm/track rod end to seperate the two. Not for physically removing the joint from whatever its in.


----------



## mattysupra (Oct 31, 2008)

can you post a pick of the bit your trying to remove? i suggested a ball joint splitter because i thought your trying to pop a normal ball joint out. But after reading the last comment and yours about removing the hub then maybe this wont work. 

Post a pic so i can see what your trying to remove.


----------



## TheD (Aug 25, 2008)

What I need to do is remove the entire ball joint from the hub. I am replacing the HICAS system with the Driftworks total hicas eliminator kit. Basically, bushes replace the ball joints and the new Driftworks track rods bolt directly to them.

See diagram I knocked up below:










So, on the left we can see the standard configuration ready to accept the tie rod end from the HICAS steering rack.

On the right, we can see that the ball joint has been removed and split poly bushes go either side, the Driftworks replacement tie rod then bolts directly onto the hub. What I need to do is remove the ball joint.


I'm going to write a full thread on fitting this kit once I've completed it. I'm very impressed by the quality / price and am quite excited about how different it must make the car handle without the rear steer.
I have already taken off the HICAS steering rack completely, once I get these ball joints off I can pop the kit on.

So basically, how do I get that ball joint out and what do I need to do it?


----------



## mattysupra (Oct 31, 2008)

Nice little drawing! 

Right a ball joint splitter is no good as you have already split the joint! 

My car is at my work so i wont be able to look now, i can pop in tommorrow if nobody answers your question tonight (its on the ramp with wheels off anyway) . 

By the looks of things im guessing it will need to be pressed off which will mean removing the hub. You might be able to drill and split but without looking i cant tell you. Im new to the skyline's so dont know them inside out yet!


----------



## TheD (Aug 25, 2008)

mattysupra said:


> Nice little drawing!
> 
> Right a ball joint splitter is no good as you have already split the joint!
> 
> ...


Thanks mate. Let me know what you think. I'd like to avoid removing the hub if possible but I have the feeling this is probably the only way.

I'm not bothered about the condition of the ball joint after as this will be completely redundant.


----------



## M SKinner (Feb 19, 2007)

You can attempt to warm the hub up around the joint... then hammer the joint out as you have already been doing. Ive heard reports of the heat causing the joint to explode though! Not sure if thats at all likely. I had a friend use this method with no problems.


----------



## tweenierob (Aug 5, 2003)

At a former garage, a collegue of mine heated up the ball joint and it exploded 

The ball joint fired out of the casing and stuck in a speaker box 20meters from the car.
You dont need to remove the hub to get the ball joint out, the ball joint is not threaded inside for nothing 

You need a die grinder and a strong bolt to pull the ball joint out.

Rob


----------



## M SKinner (Feb 19, 2007)

Where do you grind rob? I'd be petrified of hitting the alloy and munching it.


----------



## TheD (Aug 25, 2008)

Ok,

I'm not going to be heating it up then. I like my facial features where they are and I really don't think the Terminator look would suit me.

Rob - do you mean the thread on the backside of the ball joint? :chuckle:


Whats a die grinder? Do you mean the Pneumatic air tool type?


----------



## tweenierob (Aug 5, 2003)

You have to be careful mate, basically.....
Remove the rubber seal on the track rod end side, underneath it you will see a lip that holds the ball joint in. Grind this off being as careful as u can not to damage the hub, you will definately mark the hub though first time.
Once this is removed you can use a deep 3*mmm socket on the back of the bub and a M8 bolt and washer to pull the ball joing the wrong way through the hub.
Then, clean the hub and copper grease... 

Rob


----------



## ant (Nov 1, 2003)

grind the part off with the thread on and weld on a good m12 bolt to the bit thats left in the hub, put a 36mm socket over the bolt and the hub, put a washer and nut on over the bolt that sticks out from the socket and do up the nut, it will pull the ball joint out of the hub cleanly, i know it works as thats how i did mine as the driftworks kit was developed on my r32 gtr and the trial fitmant was done like this, i must have taked out 10+ ball joints like this now and it works every time.


----------



## TheD (Aug 25, 2008)

ant said:


> grind the part off with the thread on and weld on a good m12 bolt to the bit thats left in the hub, put a 36mm socket over the bolt and the hub, put a washer and nut on over the bolt that sticks out from the socket and do up the nut, it will pull the ball joint out of the hub cleanly, i know it works as thats how i did mine as the driftworks kit was developed on my r32 gtr and the trial fitmant was done like this, i must have taked out 10+ ball joints like this now and it works every time.


I'm a little confused now as I don' t know which way it should be pulled out. I was under the impression that the ball joint is pulled to the left in my diagram.


----------



## ant (Nov 1, 2003)

it would be pulled out to the right as in your diagram


----------



## TheD (Aug 25, 2008)

Ah, I see.

From what rob was saying it can go the other way, like this...










Can it be done like this?


----------



## ant (Nov 1, 2003)

its not the way i do it, i do it the other way round by cutting the threaded bit off and welding a long bolt to the flat bit thats left and using the socket on the other side


----------



## tweenierob (Aug 5, 2003)

Thats it exactly mate

Rob


----------



## TheD (Aug 25, 2008)

tweenierob said:


> Thats it exactly mate
> 
> Rob


Ok, just read your reply before too. You said I have to grind out a lip on the other side (the ball side) Is that to drop the ball out releasing the metal cylinder? If you see what I mean?

Mmmm, my Domino's Hawaiian just arrived. Is it sad that i'm sitting here chowing down on Pizza and drawing diagrams of ball joints while my Women is out socializing? I'm not sure


----------



## ant (Nov 1, 2003)

its alot quicker and easier than having the whole hub off, have done it enough times now.


----------



## tweenierob (Aug 5, 2003)

TheD said:


> Ok, just read your reply before too. You said I have to grind out a lip on the other side (the ball side) Is that to drop the ball out releasing the metal cylinder? If you see what I mean?
> 
> Mmmm, my Domino's Hawaiian just arrived. Is it sad that i'm sitting here chowing down on Pizza and drawing diagrams of ball joints while my Women is out socializing? I'm not sure



Its so you can pull the ball joint out the wrong way.

Rob


----------



## TheD (Aug 25, 2008)

tweenierob said:


> Its so you can pull the ball joint out the wrong way.
> 
> Rob


Is the lip at * Postion 1 under the cap or * Position 2 under the rubber gaiter?

See diagram below...


----------



## tweenierob (Aug 5, 2003)

position 2

Rob


----------



## TheD (Aug 25, 2008)

tweenierob said:


> position 2
> 
> Rob


Cheers rob, nice one! Thats cleared that up. I noticed a lip at position 1 which was confusing me a little.

Looks like I need to get my hands on a Dremel tomorrow that should do the job I guess.

Cheers for the help matey. Perhaps I should create a reference library of diagrams for this and other common procedures at some point if people think they well help, could post them on here.


----------



## TheD (Aug 25, 2008)

Why did Nissan have to put the sodding ball joint to the HICAS rack on the hub and not on the ficking Tie Rod end like on the front steering rack!!!!!??????

Been struggling with it all bloody day - Removed the lip but the things not budging yet. I need a new set of fingers and I'm totally frustrated!

Heeeelp! What a waste of a Sunday.

J.


----------



## tarmac terror (Jul 16, 2003)

I dabbled with doing this job too and have the ball joint waiting to go in but having looked at it I'm going to wait until I acquire a press for my garage before tackling it.

Looks a right PITA.

TT


----------



## mattysupra (Oct 31, 2008)

right then, if the ball joint is worn out then how do you change it without grinding bits off?


----------



## frostmotorsport (Aug 10, 2007)

The ONLY way to do these is remove the hub assembly, take it to a workshop and have these balljoints pressed out. Removing the hubs is only an hour or two's work and a decent workshop would not charge much to press these out.


----------



## NotoriousREV (Jun 11, 2003)

I'm glad I let you do this first Mr. TheD. My car's my daily driver and I would have been well and truly up the swanny if I'd ended up in this situation.

I think I'll plan for the hubs coming off and taking them to get pressed out. Unless someone wants to offer this on an exchange basis


----------



## Stachi (Jan 26, 2008)

Mate, I'd probably able to help you with a workshop full of machines and tools.. But you're bloody far away  But nice drawing skills there!

Rob's Method seems to be the way to go for me.

Marc


----------



## TheD (Aug 25, 2008)

NotoriousREV said:


> I'm glad I let you do this first Mr. TheD. My car's my daily driver and I would have been well and truly up the swanny if I'd ended up in this situation.
> 
> I think I'll plan for the hubs coming off and taking them to get pressed out. Unless someone wants to offer this on an exchange basis


Funily enough, once I have this cracked it. I am considering doing just that and running an exchange scheme. I think half my probablem is not having a tough enough bolt.


----------



## NotoriousREV (Jun 11, 2003)

How are you getting on? My kit finally got delivered this week, I'm now assessing how hard it is to get the hub carriers off.

It seems such an easy kit to fit, only 6 bolts


----------



## TheD (Aug 25, 2008)

Hi mate,
Just got in from attempt number 3 of getting the ball joints out but removing the hicas couldn't be easier.

Unbolt the tie rod ends and whack the off, there are two large bolts holding the hicas on (un-clip the wires from their plugs first on the rack). Take. Those bolts out and manipulate the rack round the sway bar and out it comes. 

I have a large hks silent power exhaust Which got in the way a bit but after some contortion the rack came out fine. That took me about 15 mins. to do. 

The hard bit is the ball joints. I have had 3 attempts on the near side one. 
I have ground off the lip and tried with a bolt and socket to free it but f!cked two bolts and nuts now and had to dremel them off. They were strong bolts too. God knows why Nissan thought an M8 would be sufficient to remove the ball joints. Perhaps not.

Now I'm going to take the hubs off. I think a big socket on one side and a smaller on the other and an appropriate vice may work. If that fails I'll go find a small garage with a press. It'll only take ten minutes with a press, and I bet it'll only cost fiver.

Once there off, you just need to assemble and bolt the kit on. Again that'll only take 20 mins or so.

My advise to you would be too whip the hubs off, leave the car on stands, borrow the missus car and pop to your nearest grease monkey. 
I was stumped today as I didn't have the right socket for the hub. 
Will be sorting that tomorrow so will let you all know how I got on with the vice and the hubs out. 

Again I think I will run an exchange program once I have figured it out because people really don't want to have their car off the road and the kits a good kit, nice and chunky.
J.


----------



## NotoriousREV (Jun 11, 2003)

If I was nearer I'd be down helping you out (so I could recall the favour when I'm doing my car )

I have the same exhaust you do, so that's another heads up for me. Good luck with it mate!


----------



## TheD (Aug 25, 2008)

NotoriousREV said:


> If I was nearer I'd be down helping you out (so I could recall the favour when I'm doing my car )
> 
> I have the same exhaust you do, so that's another heads up for me. Good luck with it mate!


I would help out for sure mate. So far I haven't met anyone from this club and it gets a bit lonely sitting on the cold ground getting piles by your self :chuckle:

RE: the exhaust. There is only one way it will come out with the HKS. Shove it up above the exhaust and towards the near side. This will allow you to bend the drivers side (off side) track rod of the rack round the sway bar, don't worry, you won't damage it. Angle the track rod towards th front of the car. You'll see it almost runs level with the sway bar and will flex enough to pop round it. 

You have to give it a little effort but it will go round. You could drop one of the gaiters off the rack and undo the arm but it's not worth it.

J.


----------



## ExScoobyT (Jan 6, 2004)

The correct way is with a press with hubs off the car.

You might want to drop Abbey a line as they have something that does the job, on the car (removal and fitting new one). No silly grinding involved. 

Might offer to `hire` it?


----------



## TheD (Aug 25, 2008)

They have a device that does it on the car?
Excellent. I shall ring them tomorrow, I highly doubt they will send me the tool, I live miles away from abbey. Hopefully though, they can tell me the name of it so I can get hold of one. 

J.



ExScoobyT said:


> The correct way is with a press with hubs off the car.
> 
> You might want to drop Abbey a line as they have something that does the job, on the car (removal and fitting new one). No silly grinding involved.
> 
> Might offer to `hire` it?


----------



## shade (Nov 28, 2006)

I replaced on of these on my car a while back now, without removing the hub.

I managed to fabricate a press tool that just about fitted to push the old joint out. That was actually quite easy (I have full workshop facilities) but pushing the new one in was a bit more tricky. I did manage it, but with some slight damage to the front of the new joint. I think if I do it again I would remove the hub!


----------



## Richard Bell (Jun 29, 2001)

I made a puller that screws onto the ball joint and pulls it out. Works most of the time but if it doesn`t for some reason we press them out and then in.

To fit new standard bushes I put the bush in the freezer over night and gently warm the hub where the joint fits and then you can just push the new joint in


----------



## Olly-R (Aug 15, 2008)

I tried to do my N/S/R steering ball joint in situ could get the power to move it, was gonna heat but then got scared, so stripped it and done it in the press, took 5 tonnes to get mine out....


----------



## TheD (Aug 25, 2008)

Ok peeps. Here's an update on the ball joints! Finally they are off. :clap:

Now, I would think that it's likely that a lot of people attempting this will find that the joints have reacted with the alloy hub. Don't even bother trying to get them out on the car.

Either take them off and take them to a garage with a 10 tonne press or send me a PM and i'll sort you out... I need to speak with the moderators on this one to make sure it's alright for me to offer an exchange scheme on the forum, I don't want to break any rules.

Just to put you in the picture, It took well in excess of 7 tonnes to press the ball joints out. Once the joints are off, removing the old hubs and replacing them will take around a day. I'm now going to write a guide up, more specifically pointing towards the Driftworks HICAS eliminator kit.

The kit is :thumbsup: though, and thats with out having the wheels aligned yet!

J.


----------



## ru' (Feb 18, 2007)

Glad to hear you got it sorted


----------

