# No Oil pressure & oil warning light on



## kenan (Apr 29, 2003)

Was out for a drive in the car last night and the oil low warning light came on and lost all oil pressure. Stopped car and could not see an oil leak, oil level on dipstick seems ok and all the belts for the oil pump etc look ok. Is it going to be my oil pump ???

Help


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## Pikey (Feb 19, 2004)

It wasn't making a clunking noise aswell was it?


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## lightspeed (Jul 11, 2002)

Possibly just the pressure sender which is located under the inlet manifold.

Any nasty mechanical noises?


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## kenan (Apr 29, 2003)

Panic over by the looks of it. Went out this morning after talking to sterte garage and the oil light has gone out and the presure at cold is 2 so looks like it was an electrical fault. God did I s**t myself mind. Will get someone I know round whos good with wires to check it out


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## D-J (Apr 28, 2004)

That would have been all you needed after the turbos went pop....!

DJ


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## kenan (Apr 29, 2003)

Yeah tell me about it. Just need to get the wiring checked out now as I don't want that to happen again. I'v got someone coming round who fits alarms/stereos etc to have a look. So the pressure sender is under the inletmanifold where is everything else he might need to check.


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## Pikey (Feb 19, 2004)

kenan said:


> Panic over by the looks of it. Went out this morning after talking to sterte garage and the oil light has gone out and the presure at cold is 2


That's literally exactly what mine did the morning after it started clunking and lost oil pressure...

But if you got no noises I reckon you should be alright


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## kenan (Apr 29, 2003)

No my engine sounds fine, well from what I can tell. When on idel there is a little variation in the rpm where I can just hear the exhaust tone change but expect that from any car. What do you mean from chunking excatly and what hapend to your motor ???


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## D-J (Apr 28, 2004)

It spun a bearing didn't it?

DJ


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## Pikey (Feb 19, 2004)

Yes - it spun a bearing.

Very obvious and audible 'clunk' noise at about 3 or 4 clunks per second, but faster if you blipped the throtle slightly. Ran like this for about 1 minute perhaps while a friend of mine listened and hypothesised, then just after we got in to go down the road it lost oil pressure and we shut it off.

Then when we started it again in the morning the noise was much much quieter and the oil pressure went to 2. However we decided to have it towed rather than try and get it home - and I probably saved myself a few thousand pounds by making that decision!!

Jeff


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## kenan (Apr 29, 2003)

Oh, sorry the hear that but least you got it towed. I can't hear anything like that fortunatly, however I am paranoid (who said that) so the minute I think something ain't working I get it checked before driving if possible. Is 2 good for a cold engine pressure at idle ?? Know what you mean about “friend of mine listened and hypothesized” I normally as my mate to have a listen etc and get all sorts of answers

Got a guy coming round who fits alarms/stereos etc to have a look as he was coming to fit me stereo anyway


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## kenan (Apr 29, 2003)

How is the oil pump driven by the way ???? is it a belt or is it driven internally ?? I take it once the oil pump has stoped then thats it, it's dead. I just want to make sure that the problem was electrical before I go and drive the car


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## Ima Racing (Nov 14, 2003)

Hi....no 2 is not ok at idle!!!!!Mine is over 4 at idle when cold....what is it when its warmed up?If its still 2 i would suspect oil pressure sender except that my one was knackered and read all over place even 0 BUT the oil light never came on.

I personnally would NOT use the car...i beleive there "could" be an imminent failure.


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## Pikey (Feb 19, 2004)

We also found that my oil pump was worn, and that probably explains the long time taken for the oil warning light to go out after startup (few seconds), and the knackering of said bearing  

Anyway - got a new one now, and new bearings, engine being built up as we speak. Not long now :smokin: 

And - during the strip down my brother noticed the markings on the turbos that identifies them as N1 turbos - something which I would probably never have known without the car going wrong  :smokin:


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## kenan (Apr 29, 2003)

Ahhhhh, now I'm worried again.

Ima Racing, what would you reccomend doing ??? get the wiring checked and then if the pressure is still low get the pump checked ???


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## Ima Racing (Nov 14, 2003)

I'd swap the oil pressure sensor for another first...it maybe that...i am myself new to GTR's and had the same thing except my oil light didnt come on..changed sender and now perfect...i'd phone Abbey or GTART for some advice incase its terminal..


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## Paul Hackley (Jan 3, 2003)

2kg/cm2 cold is very low. You have to have the oil pressure checked and confirmed. If it is correct running it could bugger everything from turbos to head, crank, and so on. Have you been given any warantee?
Paul


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## kenan (Apr 29, 2003)

Been on the phone to Newera and if there is a problem they will foot the bill. Just need to get it checked, only problem is it's on me drive ATM


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## Ima Racing (Nov 14, 2003)

Incidentally...what is the normal cold oil pressure for the RB26????Mine as said is just over 4.


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## Pikey (Feb 19, 2004)

Yeah - 4 sounds about right.


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## kenan (Apr 29, 2003)

Just been onto abby motorsport and they are going to send me out a new pressure sender tonight @ 87 pre vat. So I'll fit that and fingers crossed everything should be ok.

Kenan


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## rockabilly (Oct 15, 2003)

ima racing- i have both the original gauge and an aftermarket mechanical gauge. this is how mine read...47,000 miles. cold/idle 4 bar original gauge. hot/idle 2 bar original gauge............cold/idle aftermarket 6 bar/90psi and hot/idle 2 bar/30 psi. hope this helps.....never trust sender.


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## IanH (Nov 23, 2002)

My pressure is 6bar Cold, 2bar at idle when fully warmed up and 4bar when driving.


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## gtr mart (Mar 29, 2004)

I have bought an R32 GTR from New era - should be picking it up early July.

A picture has been taken of the rev counter / oil pressure gauge when cold and it reads just below 4, but the RPM is about 11 or 1200. Is this ok?

Also, there is a picture of the stereo etc. My car has been fitted with defi gauges in place of the original ones. ON this picture, you can see the defi gauge (which is oil pressure) and you can clearly see that it is reading 3 something (might be KG or Bar - not sure). Also not sure if this picture is one that has been taken when the engine is hot or cold.

Would it be strange to see variation between the defi gauge and the original ones? If so, which gauge would most people want to trust?

Cheers

mart


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## ash-r34 (Aug 28, 2003)

R34 GTR 

mine is 6 bar cold
4 during driving
2-2.5 idle


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## kenan (Apr 29, 2003)

Started her up again last night and only just reading 2  

Got the new sensor, so it fits under the plenum thingy right ??? will it be best to jack the car and fit from underneath ??????? help would be great as I'm going to try to remove myself tonight


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## Charlie (Jul 20, 2001)

*fingers crossed*

The oil lamp switch and oil pressure switch are separate, its unlikely would both fail at the same time.
IMHO I would stop starting and running your engine and perhaps get someone with a little more experience hands on to help you.
If you have an oil pressure issue, this could make the difference between fitting a set of new bearings or and wrecking the crank.


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## AJFleming (Feb 25, 2003)

Charlie said:


> The oil lamp switch and oil pressure switch are separate, its unlikely would both fail at the same time.
> IMHO I would stop starting and running your engine and perhaps get someone with a little more experience hands on to help you.
> If you have an oil pressure issue, this could make the difference between fitting a set of new bearings or and wrecking the crank.


I think they might not be seperate on an R33 though......

...its so weird - the car is MINT I cant believe it suffering from these horrible problems. 

Ant.


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## Kochi (Jul 25, 2003)

kenan said:


> Got the new sensor, so it fits under the plenum thingy right ??? will it be best to jack the car and fit from underneath ??????? help would be great as I'm going to try to remove myself tonight


Ive done this on a 32 but i guess clearances are much the same. I think you can only get to it from above, but its possible - you can actually see it from above. Unclip the wiring from the back (its under a rubber boot which covers the rear of the sensor). You need to get a 17mm spanner (or 19mm cant remember) on the nut on the end of the sensor where it joins the engine, and just turn it half a turn or so at which point you should be able to undo it by hand. The stock sensor has a bit of silicon gunk on the threads to stop it leaking, you can use some PTFE tape if you have some. Having said that, its a tapered thread so should tighten enough to stop any leaks, but dont overtighten !


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## kenan (Apr 29, 2003)

Cheers for the reply. I'm ready to fit it just not sure about starting the engine. I'v got Richard Bell to call me back later today and will see what he says. Just don't want to do andy damage to the engine. Might just get the car towed somewhere for them to look at, would rather spend a few £s to have it checked than 1000's to fix it after


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## kenan (Apr 29, 2003)

Just off the phone and apparantly the oil pressure sensor and oil warning light are off two different sensors so it sounds like the oil pump or end baring things are most likley gone  so I'v been able to drive the car all of 3 times, with turbo failures and now this I give up.


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## ash-r34 (Aug 28, 2003)

fingers crossed its just the pump and no other damage. Best of luck.


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## AJFleming (Feb 25, 2003)

kenan said:


> Just off the phone and apparantly the oil pressure sensor and oil warning light are off two different sensors so it sounds like the oil pump or end baring things are most likley gone  so I'v been able to drive the car all of 3 times, with turbo failures and now this I give up.


Dont loose faith man, its the way with these fast cars, its just unlucky that its happened to you all at once at the beginning of ownership. If the oil pump is gone you would be mad to fit another standard one from what I have heard.

Ant.


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## Pikey (Feb 19, 2004)

Oh no  

Why would they be from different sensors though? I don't understand that.

I'm getting a new standard oil pump! If it lasted 50,000 miles last time I don't see why it shouldn't last another 50,000 miles this time!


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## kenan (Apr 29, 2003)

AJFleming said:


> Dont loose faith man, its the way with these fast cars, its just unlucky that its happened to you all at once at the beginning of ownership. If the oil pump is gone you would be mad to fit another standard one from what I have heard.
> 
> Ant.


Can't help it, all the enthusam I had is gone and I'm not even I'm sure I want the car anymore. I'm normally a really happy, smiley person but I look like  On a plus side I managed to do no work all day and plan to keep it that way till I go home


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## ash-r34 (Aug 28, 2003)

I`m sitting next to a guy who spent £3K engine rebuild on a £5K Laguna.
Its worse than that because he now has to keep it 4ever to justify the money.


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## kenan (Apr 29, 2003)

Didn't know Laguna's were worth that much  Only joking. Least the engine will be sweet afer it's been out and the parts have been changed. Mind you I won't be able to drive it as I won't ave money for fuel *bangs head on wall* http://forum.hondarevolutions.com/images/smiles/banghead.gif There is a little smilie on the pug forum where he is hitting his head on a wall, I'd out it here if I could  

My misses had to change all 16 valves on her Clio when the cambelt went at 33,000 miles Grrrrrr. Must be somthing with me and low millage cars as all me cheaper/older ones have been ok ?!?!?!?


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## COLONEL_SMITH (Mar 7, 2002)

Kenan....
I know how you feel mate..Mine went the other way round,got the car back in Feb from an engine rebuild(big end failure)and now my turbos need changing.Hopefully I will get some decent turbos as I know of a set going that are top spec.Just got to agree on a price..Fingers crossed...
There is light at the end of the tunnel,these cars are getting on for 10 years old so things will go wrong...At least you won`t have to worry about new turbos or a re-build after it all gets fixed and you should have years of trouble free motoring..


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## Pikey (Feb 19, 2004)

And I've done no work all day too!


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## Jabberwock (Jun 24, 2003)

*Oil pressure*

Just to confirm normal pressures......

I run an R33 GTR with 15-50 oil and an oil cooler. Pressure when cold is over 5, when hot is over 2 at idle.

Good luck and stick with it.

Ken.


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## dave k (May 13, 2004)

I used to me a machanic the best way to check your oil pressure is to use a proper oil pressure gauge, remove the old one( its a little tight under the inlet manifold ) and fit a gauge in-line read what its pushing out I have a GTR it runs well above 4 cold and about 3 hot so yours is still very low....if in doubt don't use it....you could save thousands on the repair bill !! Mine cost £5000 when it ran a shell out needed a crank and a rod  only had the car 2 days...the trader I bought it off stood the repair )


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## dave k (May 13, 2004)

oil light and sensor are the same I think...after engine build had a slight blockage in the hole in pressure sensor....my heart raced as light 
was on and no pressure after removing debris all was good again !! so it could be just the sensor


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## Pikey (Feb 19, 2004)

kenan - change the  tags to [img] and the smilie will work :)


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## kenan (Apr 29, 2003)

It's not the sensor, put a pressure gauge into the hole where the sensor goes and shes reading almost. . . . . wait for it . . . . 2  So am getting the engine re-built/checked out to find the fault and get it fixed. I'v started a new thread http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/showthread.php?p=199650#post199650 here so if you have any advice as to anything else I might want to do while the engine is in bits etc please let me know as I am new to this (if you haden't worked it out)


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