# How to improve Fuel Consumption ?



## flovv (Jun 28, 2007)

Hi,

I now get "EDIT" 22 mpg (25 mpg was a miscalculation), which is pretty good, but I wonder what I can do, in general, to improve the fuel consumption ?
Are there any special things to get or do? Like get new ignitor maybe, or coilpacks perhaps ?

My current spec:
GTR33 with an exhaust, filter, TT baffeled pipe, original boost and a Mines ECU (stage 1).

And I know that some people think that "fuel economy is for girls", actually quoted a fella user here on the board, but I don't care 

Please note that I have searched alot on the board for info about this, but only found info about peoples MPG, not how to improve it.

Pleeeeease, give me some ideas !! :bowdown1:
BR, Stefan


----------



## MMT (Nov 10, 2010)

I'd be ecstatic if I got 25.:smokin:


----------



## Brian220 (Mar 10, 2005)

Reduce weight and decrease drag.

That's probably where i'd start.

So i'm on a diet starting from tomorrow


----------



## bobdawelder (Jan 1, 2007)

leaving it in the shed since october has done wonders....still got a molecule of v power from june!


----------



## R32 Combat (Jan 29, 2004)

Convert to LPG!!!!


----------



## Trev (Nov 1, 2003)

bobdawelder said:


> leaving it in the shed since october has done wonders....still got a molecule of v power from june!


+1 for me too.


----------



## Trev (Nov 1, 2003)

R32 Combat said:


> Convert to LPG!!!!


Or just buy a Prius, lol.


----------



## infamous_t (Jul 9, 2007)

- A good service will often do wonders if it's been left to long (plugs are fouled etc).
- Check your O2 sensors still work.
- Get an AFR meter on the car and see if the tune is any good (to rich/lean), if not sort out a retune/ecu.


----------



## stealth (Jul 6, 2004)

Mine been in the garage for over 2 months as well ,kind of lost the will to drive it at the moment with this potential speeding offence hanging over me since 8th of October .Going to take her out for a quick spin to get some V power this morning .


----------



## flovv (Jun 28, 2007)

bobdawelder said:


> leaving it in the shed since october has done wonders....still got a molecule of v power from june!


Actually, mine have been in a garage since Oct as well, so during the winter it is very economical !! 



Brian220 said:


> Reduce weight and decrease drag.
> That's probably where i'd start.
> So i'm on a diet starting from tomorrow


Decrease the drag, you've got any good ideas how?
About the weight reduce ... I don't know what to reduce from the car and for my self, it is not that much to loose, even though I like the idea 



infamous_t said:


> - A good service will often do wonders if it's been left to long (plugs are fouled etc).
> - Check your O2 sensors still work.
> - Get an AFR meter on the car and see if the tune is any good (to rich/lean), if not sort out a retune/ecu.


The plugs will be change during the winter, I really don't know what plugs are mounted at the moment as I weren't able to get the plug cover removed last year as one of the inner bolts (almost next to the firewall) was impossible to unscrew :bawling:
Anyone that know a good way of get the bolt out?
How to check if the O2 (you mean the MAF, right?) is working correct? I did clean them last year as they was dirty as hell!! Bad filter I guess ... have changed the filter now 

I just remembered that I also have an idea, decokeing !! A friend got a tube of stuff that I plan to clean the combustion area with. Good idea?

/Stefan


----------



## Mook (Mar 20, 2007)

Avoid pressing the pedal on the right


----------



## R32 Combat (Jan 29, 2004)

And the middle one!!


----------



## gtr-loz (Feb 10, 2006)

dont forget anything that passes through the combustion chambers passes through the turbos on its way out make sure its ok to use with turbo vehicles but the standard turbos are a bit fragile!


----------



## Gambit (Sep 22, 2005)

flovv said:


> I just remembered that I also have an idea, decokeing !! A friend got a tube of stuff that I plan to clean the combustion area with. Good idea?
> 
> /Stefan


I used a can of that stuff you spray into the intake (after the AFM) on my last R33 not long after I got it. It did nothing for fuel consumption but it did manage to blast a LOT of black smoke out the exhaust when I first pulled onto the A27.

So much it made all 4 lanes disappear :chuckle:


----------



## g.alund (May 4, 2007)

"Correct" tyre pressure helps too :smokin:


----------



## freakazoid3 (Jan 19, 2008)

I think the OEM ecu will be far more economical to as the Mine's ones aren't exactly known for their fuel economy


----------



## infamous_t (Jul 9, 2007)

flovv said:


> How to check if the O2 (you mean the MAF, right?) is working correct?


You can clean the MAF/AFM with electrical/brake cleaner, usually on worthwhile if your having problems or the intake is already apart.

O2 sensors are the plugs coming of your turbo elbows/dump pipes that adjust your fuel ratios slightly during light driving & cruise.
Can be checked with consult software + cable, as well as other diagnostics.
Or you can use a multimeter to check voltage output.


----------



## flovv (Jun 28, 2007)

Hey all,

First a small correction, I make 22 mpg, not 25 ... I made a miscalculation when converting it from L/100km like we use in Sweden 



gtr-loz said:


> dont forget anything that passes through the combustion chambers passes through the turbos on its way out make sure its ok to use with turbo vehicles but the standard turbos are a bit fragile!


Have been thinking of this, it even passes through the IC which seems like a stupid place to have alot of foam!! My solution is to have it sprayed in just before the plenum, that shouldn't be a problem or to hard to do, right !?



Gambit said:


> I used a can of that stuff you spray into the intake (after the AFM) on my last R33 not long after I got it. It did nothing for fuel consumption but it did manage to blast a LOT of black smoke out the exhaust when I first pulled onto the A27.
> So much it made all 4 lanes disappear :chuckle:


LOL Did the car go any better after the lanes cleared !?



g.alund said:


> "Correct" tyre pressure helps too :smokin:


A definite factor!! I guess that people driving cars like we have, also have a quite high pressure as we have quite low profile so on that point I think we don't have to change anything, but I will check the pressure one time extra anyway 



freakazoid3 said:


> I think the OEM ecu will be far more economical to as the Mine's ones aren't exactly known for their fuel economy


I though the Mines were more economical from what I have read, especially on Mines site :chuckle:
I checked before and after I switched ecu (not just once, I actually write every time I fuel up and check the consumption) and they are about the same, maybe a small advantage for mines, but that can just be coincidence.



infamous_t said:


> You can clean the MAF/AFM with electrical/brake cleaner, usually on worthwhile if your having problems or the intake is already apart.
> 
> O2 sensors are the plugs coming of your turbo elbows/dump pipes that adjust your fuel ratios slightly during light driving & cruise.
> Can be checked with consult software + cable, as well as other diagnostics.
> Or you can use a multimeter to check voltage output.


Ahh, sorry, got those to mixed up.
Will the consult + software show issues if there are any, or can they be (slightly) damaged and not show any issues with them using the consult?
I have a consult cable and software, will check it out soon!


Many thanx for all the input, the good, the bad and the funny ... keep 'em coming! 
/Stefan


----------



## R.I.P.S NZ (May 7, 2004)

A guy on trademe (like e-bay) had a listing for a fuel saver and it was for a block of wood you stick under your pedal, funny as the comments on his listing and he even made it on TV and sold a few!!!

Rob


----------



## flovv (Jun 28, 2007)

R.I.P.S NZ said:


> A guy on trademe (like e-bay) had a listing for a fuel saver and it was for a block of wood you stick under your pedal, funny as the comments on his listing and he even made it on TV and sold a few!!!
> Rob


LOL, a lock of wood might be a good idea for some people, but not for us 

The thing I'm after is to make the engine work as "good" as possible.
I will of course use the gas pedal quite alot, but I also want to be able to cruise the highway with a decent fuel consumption when I just are traveling, if you know what I mean.

/Stefan


----------



## Sub Boy (Jan 28, 2008)

easiest way to save gas (apart from farting in a jar!)

...Sell the Skyline


----------



## R.I.P.S NZ (May 7, 2004)

get the tune checked by someone who really knows what they are doing and get it adjusted if its not as good as it can be for what your priorities are.


----------



## flovv (Jun 28, 2007)

R.I.P.S NZ said:


> get the tune checked by someone who really knows what they are doing and get it adjusted if its not as good as it can be for what your priorities are.


I guess that means change ecu to a power fc or similar. It seems to be coming back to the ecu all the time, I was hoping that other factor could come into play as well.

/Stefan


----------



## akasakaR33 (Oct 10, 2005)

while undoubtedly an ECU tune can help, I have a Mine's ECU and I DO get better gas mileage than before when I had my standard ECU and then a Tomei ECU.

Although, I get between 6 -8 kms/liter (about 14~18mpg) so I have no idea how you do so well to begin with.

Other factors would be - get lower resistance tires, keep the air pressure topped off, turn off the boost to a lower level (0.8ish)(so this is related to the tuning ECU issue - less power, less gas consumption - is the tradeoff worth it?), shift out of 1st gear as quickly as possible and get to overdrive (5th) as quickly as possible, draft off large lorrys in front of you, etc.

those other ideas mentioned by others were good too.


----------



## flovv (Jun 28, 2007)

akasakaR33 said:


> while undoubtedly an ECU tune can help, I have a Mine's ECU and I DO get better gas mileage than before when I had my standard ECU and then a Tomei ECU.
> 
> Although, I get between 6 -8 kms/liter (about 14~18mpg) so I have no idea how you do so well to begin with.
> 
> ...


Hey,
I haven't changed the boost, it is standard at about 0.7bar.
About the eco drivin' style, I know alot of them 
What do you mean by "keep the air pressure topped off"? Set the wing right to get lower down force?
Liked the track day at Tsukuba, would be really great to test that some day! Have only seen alot of Best Motoring about it and driven it virtually in GT5  

/Stefan


----------



## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

flovv said:


> Decrease the drag, you've got any good ideas how?


Easiest thing would be narrower tyres. You can even get 'eco' tyres which help with lowering rolling drag. Not sure I'd want them on my GTR though...

I'd imagine that ECU would be the way to get the best MPG improvements. A good quality modern ECU with really good set-up should improve on the stock ECU. If you can ditch the cat you'll see an improvement there (well you might not 'see' the improvement but it will help the mpg).


----------



## cleethorpes (Sep 30, 2008)

Can't remember what program it was but it said you should never accelerate fast and brake fast in town, ie don't brake hard-ish when approaching traffic lights, just let the gas off early and coast. I tried it and in a week saved around 25% on my fuel costs.

My conclusion is I drove like a **** before.

Also, I certainly wasn't in a skyline.


----------



## akasakaR33 (Oct 10, 2005)

flovv said:


> Hey,
> I haven't changed the boost, it is standard at about 0.7bar.
> About the eco drivin' style, I know alot of them
> What do you mean by "keep the air pressure topped off"? Set the wing right to get lower down force?
> ...


Stefan - well actually I meant keep the tire air pressure inflated at a high level, but now that you mention it...

setting the wing down to get lower down force will actually produce more drag. So you should leave the wing flat as is. It's commonly known that setting the wing down produces greater downforce, but at the expense of sacrificing top speed. As Tsukuba isn't a high speed track like Fuji, the ability to take corners quickly is more important - especially the last one - hence I adjust accordingly for that extra rear end traction.

Another idea - the latest edition of GT-R Magazine here in Japan reports that Nismo Omori factory is trying to retrofit R35 fuel injectors into the RB26. The thinking here is that the newer R35 injectors have several small holes which allow the injected fuel to be better atomized, and hence cleaner burning and more power for a given spark. unfortunately, this modification is still in the testing stage, and requires a new fuel rail, so this would be some time in the future.

Another idea - my friend AsphaltJet reported better gas mileage after swapping out his spark plug coils for the Okada Plasma coils. Not sure if the results are scientific, but in the same way as above, if a greater spark would allow more fuel to be burnt, then less fuel would be required to produce the same energy (ie wouldn't have to open the throttle as much). 

Anyway - whether ECU tune, or better burning of the fuel/air mixture so you use less gas for the same amount of power - you want to maximize the efficiency of the drivetrain or reduce the car's resistance - either way - less power being used = better gas mileage.

I've driven around coasting/using 5th gear as much as possible. And yes got better mileage but it was not fun to drive that way.


----------



## cleethorpes (Sep 30, 2008)

It may have been mentioned but ultimately I believe that gtr owners are not thinking of economy when purchasing. The only economy I think about is the crap state the uk one is in.


----------



## flovv (Jun 28, 2007)

Cris said:


> Easiest thing would be narrower tyres. You can even get 'eco' tyres which help with lowering rolling drag. Not sure I'd want them on my GTR though...
> 
> I'd imagine that ECU would be the way to get the best MPG improvements. A good quality modern ECU with really good set-up should improve on the stock ECU. If you can ditch the cat you'll see an improvement there (well you might not 'see' the improvement but it will help the mpg).


As you wrote, eco tires or narrower tires is not an option, even though 245/40-18 eco tires could be interesting :chuckle:



cleethorpes said:


> Can't remember what program it was but it said you should never accelerate fast and brake fast in town, ie don't brake hard-ish when approaching traffic lights, just let the gas off early and coast. I tried it and in a week saved around 25% on my fuel costs.
> My conclusion is I drove like a **** before.
> Also, I certainly wasn't in a skyline.


hehe, I actually drive like that, even in the GT-R, maybe that is why I have better mpg than others on the forum. Note that this is when I don't drive more "actively" 



akasakaR33 said:


> Stefan - well actually I meant keep the tire air pressure inflated at a high level, but now that you mention it...
> 
> setting the wing down to get lower down force will actually produce more drag. So you should leave the wing flat as is. It's commonly known that setting the wing down produces greater downforce, but at the expense of sacrificing top speed. As Tsukuba isn't a high speed track like Fuji, the ability to take corners quickly is more important - especially the last one - hence I adjust accordingly for that extra rear end traction.
> 
> ...


The wing is set to be as flat as possible, will just change it for track.
The "R35 fuel injectors" idea sounds like a interesting idea, maybe quite expensive to same money on fuel consumption (maybe the environment though?).
What about getting the injectors cleaned, might get a better combustion? Is there any working adjective to the fuel that can clean injectors or is the ultra sound the only way to go in that case?
The coil pack idea was one of the mentioned things I have have been thinking about in my first post, nice to see that it might help 
Thinking of getting Super Spark coils actually, is there any point in changing the ignitor as well?




cleethorpes said:


> It may have been mentioned but ultimately I believe that gtr owners are not thinking of economy when purchasing. The only economy I think about is the crap state the uk one is in.


Very true! I have never bought the gtr because it was economical, I know it is thirsty!! I just want to get better mpg when cruising the highway to work in the summer or when I travel greater distances.

At best I have managed 26 mpg and that was about 600 miles of highway and some smaller roads when we visited the wife's uncle on his 60th birthday this spring (might have been to much info there, but hey ) . A friend have a r32 gtr and he have managed about 32 mpg as best !! How is that possible with a gtr32 -94 producing 380-400bhp (exhaust, filter, sports cat, higher boost and a nismo ecu)? Wouldn't that be possible for my car as well then, even though his is a little lighter?
My real goal about the consumption is to get to his mpg, 32 seems to be like a sweet figure 

/Stefan


----------



## Asphalt Jet (Oct 20, 2008)

flovv said:


> is there any point in changing the ignitor as well?


On the Okada sysytem the iginiter is built in to the coil pack itself.

As for the Primary Question of fuel efficiency and how to improve it, leave it stock.

But then again if you bought the GTR, and you are worried about gas consumption you bought the wrong car. Every now and a great while I say I am going to drive off boost and get into fifth as quick as possible, and putt around, but like my friend AkasakaR33 says thats no fun. Lets face it if you bought the GTR then you have the disease, the Need for Speed, and the only medicine I know which is available for that particular disease is called TACHING OUT Medicating my self with my GTR is how I keep it under controll, however I requirer several daily doses, my symptoms are so bad that I had to aquire a second GTR for back up just in case one goes down. I have access to what I call the test track very close to work and home, its a little over 1/4 mile long and hardly used, meaning very little traffic. I take a quick quarter shot in the morning and in the evening, and sometimes at lunch.

So with that said, as far as fuel efficiency is concerned, you have the wrong car if you are worried about it. Get rid of it and buy a Trabi. 

This is my two yen.:smokin:


----------



## flovv (Jun 28, 2007)

Asphalt Jet said:


> On the Okada sysytem the iginiter is built in to the coil pack itself.
> 
> As for the Primary Question of fuel efficiency and how to improve it, leave it stock.
> 
> ...


Haha, don't know if a Trabi is the answer and they smell as hell 

As stated before, I'm not worried about the fuel consumption of the GT-R, I just want to get it to go as many mpg as possible when I'm just cruising.

About your medication, I am not that ill as you apparently, but I do have issues during the winter season as the car is in the garage from October till April. This year I have GT5 to settle my needs 
You do you solve it during the winter season? I don't know how the situation is in UK, but here we have ALOT of snow and it actually snows as I write this. Think it came about 15cm snow just this night and at this rate we will get at least double that in the evening!!

/Stefan

PS. Luxiurious Trabi maybe? 
http://www.tiptop-trabis.de/Kurioses/Doppel-Trabi.JPG


----------



## Asphalt Jet (Oct 20, 2008)

Well first you gotta know I am just picking at you, and second I have been doing the snow dance and so far know dice, I live in Kanagawa prefecture, Japan, just down the street from Tokyo. stay off boost for as long as possible. Okada Plasma direct did help out but they are pricey, I bought mine when the dollar danced on the Yen, now its the other way around. Try indexing your plugs, I call that spark tuning, set the plugs so the gap faces the intake valves, detenation in the same spot in all cylinders, causes less resistance to the rotating assembly.


----------



## Darren-mac (May 13, 2009)

Lower fuel consumption by driving off boost. Car is only as fast and thirsty as your right foot allows it to be. At the end of the day it is a performance car. If your annoyed by fuel consumption then it's not for you.


----------



## flovv (Jun 28, 2007)

Asphalt Jet said:


> Well first you gotta know I am just picking at you, and second I have been doing the snow dance and so far know dice, I live in Kanagawa prefecture, Japan, just down the street from Tokyo. stay off boost for as long as possible. Okada Plasma direct did help out but they are pricey, I bought mine when the dollar danced on the Yen, now its the other way around. Try indexing your plugs, I call that spark tuning, set the plugs so the gap faces the intake valves, detenation in the same spot in all cylinders, causes less resistance to the rotating assembly.


Sorry, missed that you were in Japan 
I really love to play with the atessa in the snow, but I don't want to drive the car in the winter, I have a Volvo for that :chuckle:
Thinking of getting super sparks coils, should be something like the plasma coils, right?
The indexing of plugs is interesting, the gap should be pointing left, standing in front of the car, correct? Will this increase the combustion? 



Darren-mac said:


> Lower fuel consumption by driving off boost. Car is only as fast and thirsty as your right foot allows it to be. At the end of the day it is a performance car. If your annoyed by fuel consumption then it's not for you.


I really hope that you are messing with me as well, because if you have read the thread you should know that i'm not trying to make the GT-R into a micra.

/Stefan


----------



## Asphalt Jet (Oct 20, 2008)

Think about it if you just throw plugs into the engine gap orientation is random. Looked down at the top of the piston like a clock and the intake side is 9 o clock, the exhaust side is 3 o clock, now imagine if you pull a plug out of the box and install lets you end up with this sequence, by cylinder.

#1-2 o clock
#2-5 o clock
#3-7 o clock
#4-1 o clock
#5-10 o clock
#6-12 oclock

See how off balance the firing sequence is, there is an explosion going off in each cylinder and since they are in different locations this could quite possibly cause a stutter which in turn robs some of your potential energy. If you situate the spark at 9 o clock the force from the explosion will be happening in the same spot, plus the explosion is centered. In other words if you are firing at 3 o clock then you are on the outer edge of the rotation which should cause the engine to rock a little more, at 9 you are on the inner side and driving the piston straight down with none or very little rocking. Plus location of the gap towards the intake side allows for the full face of the kernal to ignite the fuel at precisely the right moment. I am sure this could be explained better, it has been said that doing this will give you a 5% increase in power over all plus it will make the engine run smoother. But hell I could be wrong about the whole issue and wasted my time indexing mine and 
AsakasaR33's engines. But we both noticed a difference, and the Okadas are the best, they provide multiple sparks in each cylinder, with the same energy in every spark, and those sparks are 10x more powerful than stock, but pricey. Hope all this made sense.


----------



## akasakaR33 (Oct 10, 2005)

You forgot to mention that in order to index spark plugs properly, you need to have those copper shims we got, remember?

Also, Stefan's question was - which way should the spark plug gap face? 

Also - please explain why the Okadas are "better" in your opinion than others like Splitfire, etc.


----------



## blue34 (Jul 28, 2005)

Get yourself an air fuel ratio meter, (HKS Knock amp) or an aftermarket dial kit. The "ideal" ratio is 14.5 to 1 (although under boost it will need to be richer). If you can get as close to 14.5 to 1 as possible cruising off boost and if everything else is working correctly that will give you the best possible economy without running too lean.

Until you know what ratio your running, you are just guessing... 

I wouldn't be suprised if your Mines ecu is giving something nearer to 12.5 to 1 in the cruise, it won't have been tuned for economy...


----------



## cleethorpes (Sep 30, 2008)

I thought it was 14.7:1


----------



## Over the limit (May 14, 2009)

Will that ideal ratio be different for fuels that have varying percentages of ethanol in them?


----------



## flovv (Jun 28, 2007)

Asphalt Jet said:


> Think about it if you just throw plugs into the engine gap orientation is random. Looked down at the top of the piston like a clock and the intake side is 9 o clock, the exhaust side is 3 o clock, now imagine if you pull a plug out of the box and install lets you end up with this sequence, by cylinder.
> 
> #1-2 o clock
> #2-5 o clock
> ...


Very interesting the index part!! I actually asked my father in law about this today when they came over for a bite to eat. He have worked 30 years at Volvo Cars Company in the motor department, designing engines. He said that this could definitely make a difference! He also said that the direction of the plug depends on the combustion chamber on the engine, but if you know that it should be 9 o clock for the RB26, then I'm good with that!! 
The Okadas would be great, but I don't see that they are made for the gtr33, only the gtr34 
BTW, whay is pricey, what do they cost (didn't find that)?



akasakaR33 said:


> You forgot to mention that in order to index spark plugs properly, you need to have those copper shims we got, remember?
> 
> Also, Stefan's question was - which way should the spark plug gap face?
> 
> Also - please explain why the Okadas are "better" in your opinion than others like Splitfire, etc.


Do you have special shims for the indexing?
I thought the gap should face 9 o clock, isn't that correct?



blue34 said:


> Get yourself an air fuel ratio meter, (HKS Knock amp) or an aftermarket dial kit. The "ideal" ratio is 14.5 to 1 (although under boost it will need to be richer). If you can get as close to 14.5 to 1 as possible cruising off boost and if everything else is working correctly that will give you the best possible economy without running too lean.
> 
> Until you know what ratio your running, you are just guessing...
> 
> I wouldn't be suprised if your Mines ecu is giving something nearer to 12.5 to 1 in the cruise, it won't have been tuned for economy...


Interesting!! Might look into that as well.

/Stefan


----------



## Asphalt Jet (Oct 20, 2008)

Yes AkasakaR33 located this kit on line some where to shim the plugs, there were enough of the shims in the kit that I was able to do both cars, the kit contained brass washers of varying thickness. Gap Orientation is 9 o clock standing in front of the car looking at the engine. 

As for the Okadas I bought mine from Fujii san, his shop Fujii Dynamics was 5 minutes from my house, also worth mentioning he was a member of the *RH9 *group. Unfortunately he passed away at a very young age,(Rest in Peace Fujii san), me and AkasakaR33 use to pick his brain about the GTR quite a bit. But anyways I purchased the Okadas from him, ran 144,000 JPY, he said HorsePower gains are minimal, the reason RH9 recommended them was for the increase in Torque, that and a more complete burn. Need a set PM me and I will square you away


----------



## meathead (Sep 3, 2006)

akasakaR33 said:


> You forgot to mention that in order to index spark plugs properly, you need to have those copper shims we got, remember?
> 
> Also, Stefan's question was - which way should the spark plug gap face?
> 
> Also - please explain why the Okadas are "better" in your opinion than others like Splitfire, etc.


Hello Akasaka ,

How do you find the Okadas?
I bought some around 3 years ago but my tuner at the time reckons anything under 700ps just use the normal system.
So mine are still in the box.
Did you have to retune?
Interested to hear your thoughts. 
I run a 2.8 with T517z 8cm which is very responsive but could always do with more torque


----------



## Asphalt Jet (Oct 20, 2008)

meathead said:


> Hello Akasaka ,
> 
> How do you find the Okadas?
> I bought some around 3 years ago but my tuner at the time reckons anything under 700ps just use the normal system.
> ...


This is from the Okada home page

"The Plasma Direct is the ignition coil with a high power amplifier built in to it.
The Plasma Directs produce 4 times more spark energy than stock coils and also generate an ultra fast multi spark discharge of 10 sparks up to highest RPM.
The spark amperage is increased 100%, allowing the spark to reach many more molecules and therefore accelerate the ignition and combustion process. This is extremely important in forced induction applications but also improves the performance of normally aspirated engines.

The Plasma Direct will increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. This upgrade will also reduce fuel consumption."

I would get retuned to get all the possible gain this mod will bring, as of yet I haven't tuned the ECU, still building, so for now I run the Mines VX Rom.

AkasakaR33 doesn't run the Okadas yet, it's a hard sell for him. He is still fine tuning other parts of his ride, one day he might get around to them. Ignition was my First upgrade.


----------



## flovv (Jun 28, 2007)

Asphalt Jet said:


> Yes AkasakaR33 located this kit on line some where to shim the plugs, there were enough of the shims in the kit that I was able to do both cars, the kit contained brass washers of varying thickness. Gap Orientation is 9 o clock standing in front of the car looking at the engine.
> 
> As for the Okadas I bought mine from Fujii san, his shop Fujii Dynamics was 5 minutes from my house, also worth mentioning he was a member of the *RH9 *group. Unfortunately he passed away at a very young age,(Rest in Peace Fujii san), me and AkasakaR33 use to pick his brain about the GTR quite a bit. But anyways I purchased the Okadas from him, ran 144,000 JPY, he said HorsePower gains are minimal, the reason RH9 recommended them was for the increase in Torque, that and a more complete burn. Need a set PM me and I will square you away


Sorry to here about Fujii san.

Any idea where to get shims like that or which size and thickness's I need?
What is "RH9" ?
At 144,000 they are pretty expensive!  Though, might be worth if you are tuning the car alot!

/Stefan


----------



## cleethorpes (Sep 30, 2008)

Over the limit said:


> Will that ideal ratio be different for fuels that have varying percentages of ethanol in them?


that ratio is for air / petrol, not sure what happens when using other fuels, they may have components that alter this..


----------



## gtr-loz (Feb 10, 2006)

you can run leaner than 14.7 to 1 on cruise i go to about 15.5


----------



## chaz_r33_gtr (Aug 6, 2005)

Brian220 said:


> Reduce weight and decrease drag.
> 
> That's probably where i'd start.
> 
> So i'm on a diet starting from tomorrow


Are ya gonna stop wearing womens clothes as much too bri?? hehe.. Happy new year matey!

On a more relevant note, try getting your air/fuel ratio changed in the low revs,low load reigons. You can actually run lean in these reigons (e.g.15.2/1) yes the ignition temps will go up but this is where you spend most of your time cruising. DONT lean off the mixture at the higher revs/high boost end of the map as you'll end up getting knock. Rod mapped my car lean off boost for economy. On Apexi Power FC ECUs you then need to turn off your lambda sensor feedback control as this will override the map at low revs/load and try to make your mixture 14.7/1 rather than what your map has been altered too i.e. 15.2/1....


----------



## Initial P! (Oct 27, 2009)

Don't think fuel consumption is something you should worry about when buying a car like this (that's what I tell myself anyway).


----------



## souroull (Jul 21, 2008)

Asphalt Jet said:


> Think about it if you just throw plugs into the engine gap orientation is random. Looked down at the top of the piston like a clock and the intake side is 9 o clock, the exhaust side is 3 o clock, now imagine if you pull a plug out of the box and install lets you end up with this sequence, by cylinder.
> 
> #1-2 o clock
> #2-5 o clock
> ...


this is very interesting but... having the plug prongs oriented to one direction means either having to live with loose or overtightened plugs, which could lead to a whole loads of problems right there. If you use shims, you're altering the chamber size a tiny bit, thus compression ratio. whatever small gains to be had may get lost right there. why not just get 4 prong plugs? :runaway:


----------



## Asphalt Jet (Oct 20, 2008)

souroull said:


> this is very interesting but... having the plug prongs oriented to one direction means either having to live with loose or overtightened plugs, which could lead to a whole loads of problems right there. If you use shims, you're altering the chamber size a tiny bit, thus compression ratio. whatever small gains to be had may get lost right there. why not just get 4 prong plugs? :runaway:


Souroull,

Do you really think that half a thread difference on the spark plug will actually alter the compression ratio? If it did do you think it's enough to change the characteristics of the tune, or the way the engine runs? I am not saying that you are wrong or right, sounds extereme and a far reach, but you may have gold. 

Would anyone else like to chime in on what has just been pointed out, this is what the forum is for, to kick theories back and forth as there is a huge pool of knowledge here and we all would love nothing better than to get the most out of our cars, using every possible trick, out there.


----------



## cleethorpes (Sep 30, 2008)

there must be an optimum position for the spark to , well spark in the combustion chamber, indexing.


----------



## TAZZMAXX (Mar 9, 2010)

cleethorpes said:


> there must be an optimum position for the spark to , well spark in the combustion chamber, indexing.


Yeah, whatever happened to triple-electrode spark plugs?


----------



## Mwohaaahaahaa (Feb 19, 2010)

This may seem like a stupid question but can the aftermarket ecu's support mulitple maps, so that you could have one for eco, and one for playing around, and one for track days? then you can just switch/select which one you want. I know some new cars have this.


----------



## Ruff McMuff (Aug 3, 2010)

Mwohaaahaahaa said:


> This may seem like a stupid question but can the aftermarket ecu's support mulitple maps, so that you could have one for eco, and one for playing around, and one for track days? then you can just switch/select which one you want. I know some new cars have this.


The Power FC doesnt support multiple maps, you would need to keep a Laptop and Datalogit in the car if you wanted to switch over maps I suppose. Pretty sure some of the newer ECU's will have switchable map functions though.


----------



## rogerdavis (Feb 16, 2008)

souroull said:


> this is very interesting but... having the plug prongs oriented to one direction means either having to live with loose or overtightened plugs, which could lead to a whole loads of problems right there. If you use shims, you're altering the chamber size a tiny bit, thus compression ratio. whatever small gains to be had may get lost right there. why not just get 4 prong plugs? :runaway:


Does this actually work? Have anyone tested this on the dyno under controlled conditions?


----------



## cleethorpes (Sep 30, 2008)

Mwohaaahaahaa said:


> This may seem like a stupid question but can the aftermarket ecu's support mulitple maps, so that you could have one for eco, and one for playing around, and one for track days? then you can just switch/select which one you want. I know some new cars have this.


you could just get it mapped so heavy throttle gives a higher state of tune, say anything above 80%. I would have thought for pottering about ..in a gtr...you shouldn't really be using over 80 on the tps... if you are...you pay the price..

I'm not sure what the standard maps are like, but they are probably pretty poor based on todays standards..


----------



## nozza1 (Jan 13, 2007)

souroull said:


> this is very interesting but... having the plug prongs oriented to one direction means either having to live with loose or overtightened plugs, which could lead to a whole loads of problems right there. If you use shims, you're altering the chamber size a tiny bit, thus compression ratio. whatever small gains to be had may get lost right there. why not just get 4 prong plugs? :runaway:


Very interesting read.

I can see how it would work.

May give it a go, would need to know where to get those copper shims from though, could you point me in the right direction please 'AkasakaR33'.

Thankyou.

Will post findings.


----------



## rogerdavis (Feb 16, 2008)

Google Moroso washers


----------



## gary (Aug 19, 2001)

*Hi peeps*

I read the first and last post 
INDEX THE SPARK PLUGS, towards the inlet side of the engine improves everything, loss of compression from shims who are you kidding
revs oh yeah

Garyopcorn:


----------



## gary (Aug 19, 2001)

*ooops*

:wavey:Second to last post


----------

