# Tomei Rods any good



## adamsaiyad (Aug 23, 2006)

TOMEI H Beam Conrods Set RB25DE(T) RB26DETT VQ35DE 1JZ-GTE 2JZ-GTE

Hi guys the link is above i need to know if these rods are any good if i am to go ahead with my purchase and rebuild.
The Greddy items are double the price ?

Some how these rods look very familiar and ive seen them before just cant remember what brand they were before Maybe Carrillo?

Hp 550-600
Standard crank
Tomei high flow oil pump.

Any advice would be great 
Are Brian crower rods any good as well though they are slightly cheaper....


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## mattysupra (Oct 31, 2008)

alot of people use them so i guess they are fine. 

However, are the standard rods not good for the same power as these are rated to? Or do tomie under estimate what they are rated to?



EDIT- i may of misunderstood your post. I read it as the BHP figure you posted up as the spec for the tomie rods? But are you saying that you are looking at putting 550-600 bhp through them?


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## Boosted (Jun 5, 2008)

Standard rods will be ok up to 600 BHP I seem to remember, use ARP rod bolts though.

Crower rods are ok too :thumbsup:


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## JD74 (Oct 7, 2008)

Just to be clear, CROWER and BRIAN CROWER are not the same....

If I was in the market again, here is the path I would take beginning at most affordable:

1) Manley or Brian Crower Standard H-Beams w/ARP2000 Fasteners (*$600 USD*)
2) Manley or Brian Crower Premium H-Beams w/ARP 625+ Fasteners (*$900 USD*)
3) Manley Pro Series Turbo-Tuff Billet I-Beams or Crower Racing Billet I-Beams (*$1200 USD*)

Although I do like US brands, Carrillo is just out of most people's price rage.

After seeing what US EVO/DSM Builders were achieving with them, I ended up buying Manley Pro Series Turbo Tuff I-Beams, but also purchased an ARP3.5 fastener upgrade (strongest fastener by ARP on the consumer market).


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## Boosted (Jun 5, 2008)

These rods are good, 'rockabilly' uses them in his R33

Spool Rods


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## JD74 (Oct 7, 2008)

If you are going to take a chance on BrandX H-Beams and are looking for cheap, check these out:
NISSAN 4340 Forged HBeam Rods RB26 SR20 HR-CRS-4783 909 : eBay Motors (item 390169163079 end time Apr-11-10 18:33:40 PDT)

I failt to see how the Spool Rods can be any better than these.....

H-Beams, ARP Fasteners..and cheap @ *$355 USD + Shipping for a set of 6*
_(I contacted the seller in the past to make sure, as I had a friend looking for cheap rods)_


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## creedonsr20det (Aug 6, 2008)

adamsaiyad said:


> TOMEI H Beam Conrods Set RB25DE(T) RB26DETT VQ35DE 1JZ-GTE 2JZ-GTE
> 
> Hi guys the link is above i need to know if these rods are any good if i am to go ahead with my purchase and rebuild.
> The Greddy items are double the price ?
> ...


i have tomei rods and bolts in my engine..no problems as yet!
Tomei is a top brand


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## R32 GTR R32 GTR (Nov 27, 2009)

JD74 said:


> If you are going to take a chance on BrandX H-Beams and are looking for cheap, check these out:
> NISSAN 4340 Forged HBeam Rods RB26 SR20 HR-CRS-4783 909 : eBay Motors (item 390169163079 end time Apr-11-10 18:33:40 PDT)
> 
> I failt to see how the Spool Rods can be any better than these.....
> ...



That price is for 4 Rods as per the item description, still works out cheaper than the Tomei items though


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## Boosted (Jun 5, 2008)

JD74 said:


> If you are going to take a chance on BrandX H-Beams and are looking for cheap, check these out:
> NISSAN 4340 Forged HBeam Rods RB26 SR20 HR-CRS-4783 909 : eBay Motors (item 390169163079 end time Apr-11-10 18:33:40 PDT)
> 
> I failt to see how the Spool Rods can be any better than these.....
> ...



WTF do you know about Spool Rods???

Tell this guy what you think of them, rockabilly After you've read about his car that is. Make sure you read about the build and how it gets used before you decide to make such an uninformed opinion. :lamer:


Here ya go, I've added this link so you don't have to tax your brain searching. Just look at the calibre of the cars running Spool Rods, ok?

Cars running Spool Rods


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## JD74 (Oct 7, 2008)

R32 GTR R32 GTR said:


> That price is for 4 Rods as per the item description


It's for 6. I contacted the seller and made reference to it above.



Boosted said:


> WTF do you know about Spool Rods???


Regardless of how passionate you are towards the brand, a few things still ring true. People buy Spool Rods because they are affordable. Spool Rods are another Chineese forged budget rod that are finished 'locally' (like Eagles are in the US)....and most importantly, the feat of achieving impressive results using a budget item is nothing new and others have done it before.

They are A BUDGET CONNECTING ROD.


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## 2 Black Lines (May 30, 2008)

JD74 said:


> Regardless of how passionate you are towards the brand, a few things still ring true. People buy Spool Rods because they are affordable. Spool Rods are another Chineese forged budget rod that are finished 'locally' (like Eagles are in the US)....and most importantly, the feat of achieving impressive results using a budget item is nothing new and others have done it before.
> 
> They are A BUDGET CONNECTING ROD.


This is one of so far 3 manufacturers of 'budget' rods I've found.



H-Beam Forged Billet 4340 Steel Connecting Rod - China H-Beam Forged Billet 4340 Steel Conrod, H Beam Forged Billet 4340 Steel Conrods, Forged Billet 4340 Steel Connecting Rod in Auto Engine

Look at the bottom of the list,you might get a small surprise. Now don't knock them for being chinese manufactured, they are using the latest forging processes on as new equipment, using the same sourced raw materials as the rest of the manufacturers, and produce more than acceptable results.

I know I'm using them in a 350cu inch blown chevy of mine running 15 psi. When I opened the box I went S*** there chinese! but checked and was surprised, there not that bad at all, bloody good in fact.

I am not saying these are tomei/ HKS/ Carrillo rods tho. It would be the O P choice, Sorry to stray off topic.


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## Red R Racing (Aug 22, 2009)

these are what you want...much better than tomei. (ive used lots of tomei's...these are much better)


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## SupraT71 (Dec 13, 2007)

i know that most guys in the Supra world would go for Carillo H-Beam Rods as others have mentioned. But they do cost a bit. They are used in many of the fastest Supras and also the ABM "Big Red" Supra which dynod 1722 rwhp and went 243 mph in a standing mile. Also Crower and Pauter rods are pretty good.


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## adamsaiyad (Aug 23, 2006)

and i was just looking at what nitto performance had to offer .....
how good are there standard billet counter crankshafts ?
you recon my nur will be as smooth as before with a 73.3mm standard stroke crank , balanced pistons and maybe h beam rods ?/
anyone else nitto and can give me some feed back i need a crank and possibly one better then the factory nissan item ??


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## GT-R Glenn (Nov 9, 2002)

LOL


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## adamsaiyad (Aug 23, 2006)

me too lol cause i know im being funny but i am looking for the best possible option and no i dont want a Rb30 and no i cant be sending an engine to some workshop overseas that has a floor dirtier then my undersole shoes....
So i choose to do it myself !!!!


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## JD74 (Oct 7, 2008)

adamsaiyad said:


> i dont want a Rb30 and no i cant be sending an engine to some workshop overseas that has a floor dirtier then my undersole shoes....


Care to share what you mean by that ?


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## Boosted (Jun 5, 2008)

I don't think anybody has told the OP that a Nissan crank will do everything he needs it to. Nissan cranks FTW.











:chuckle:


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## GT-R Glenn (Nov 9, 2002)

I cant take anyone seriously who starts a thread "Tomei Rods Any Good ?"


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## adamsaiyad (Aug 23, 2006)

Fair enough dont take me seriously if you choose it is your choice at the end of the day.
The nissan crank is ok for what it was made for, put it under pressure and stress and you will notice it has weaknesses, so essentially i know i can never have a bulletproof car, but i would like something stronger, even you GT-R Glenn.
My apologies if my post looks like something from disney.
Please take me seriously as i am doing this on my own.
Please take me seriously as i am human and have feelings just like you do.
Please take me seriously as i am asking for help because i dont know any better and no one should be put down for asking for help.

I am asking for help i have been through two motors one rebuilt and one brand new, my luck isnt at its greatest right now and i cant help but feel depressed, and to rub salt in the wounds GT-R Glenn feels my post question is not appropriately worded?
My apologies.

I just need some sound advice about parts not about how i should spend money and get a RB30 and not about how i should send my engine to nismo or some other engine building place.

I LIVE IN AFRICA, this distance surely accounts for 90% of my decision to learn to do this myself cause sending the engine any where is just an expensive route for me.
Thats money i can use on getting it back on the road.

In saying such Nitto performance has replied my email and i need to post how Helpfull they are and what kind of reponse they have given me based on the questions i asked and on the products i required.

So i might even go Nitto and not tomei.... hence the reason i ask on here which rods are better tomei or Greddy ? Carrillo or B/C ?
Which cranks are better reliably Nissan or Tomei ?

Jun or Nitto?

Just looking for the best possible solution.
Sorry GT-R Glenn


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## GT-R Glenn (Nov 9, 2002)

Well why dont you try and help yourself ?
Try looking at some of the hundreds of threads on engine mods and engine building on this website ?
You dont even need aftermarket rods for a 600hp engine
Asking if Tomei is anygood is a massive indication you are sadly lacking in knowledge on RB engines ....
Theres a huge thread on who make the best rods...
I know some new age sensitive types dont like me telling people to search but C'mon ......


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## Red R Racing (Aug 22, 2009)

adamsaiyad said:


> Fair enough dont take me seriously if you choose it is your choice at the end of the day.
> The nissan crank is ok for what it was made for, put it under pressure and stress and you will notice it has weaknesses, so essentially i know i can never have a bulletproof car, but i would like something stronger, even you GT-R Glenn.
> My apologies if my post looks like something from disney.
> Please take me seriously as i am doing this on my own.
> ...


ill line you up a Jun and Nitto side by side and photograph for you tomm. Ill also point out some important differences you will be able to clearly see....the Nitto's are definately the pick. Andrew at Nitto is a top bloke who is easy to deal with which also helps.


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## KantoStyle (Jun 6, 2007)

The Tomei ones use L19 ARP bolts.


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## infamous_t (Jul 9, 2007)

adamsaiyad said:


> Which cranks are better reliably Nissan or Tomei ?
> 
> Jun or Nitto?


Only reason to look at replacement cranks is for a stroker kit, or to reduce harmonic problems (ie full counter weight crank) at silly RPM (10K+).
Stock cranks can handle big power.

Nitto stroker is 'very similar' to the Jun item, if you get my meaning.


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## ru' (Feb 18, 2007)

You can buy the best bits in the world, but if the build or map is rubbish you'll still destroy the engine...


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## Boosted (Jun 5, 2008)

But seriously.............

do you even know how much it's going to cost to buy Nitto items?

No? 

Have you seen how cheap a fully built RB30 is, one that's built properly and won't go bang like your previous engines?

No?

Try using the search function, you'll find loads of threads on every crank/rods/pistons under the sun. When you have seen how expensive the aftermarket items are, it suddenly makes the price of a fully built RB30 seem like nothing.

But it's your money, if you want to waste it by buying over-specced items you don't need for your power requirements, then feel free. But please don't bleat on about how cheap you have to do it, because aftermarket items and cheap are never mentioned in the same sentence.

Good luck, and I'll look forward to your 'engine 3 gone bang' thread in the near future.




As the wise man once say...............you can lead a horse to water..............


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## adamsaiyad (Aug 23, 2006)

HA HA HA HA HA HA HA i cant stop laughing .
This thread rocks because you want to see my third engine go bang.
As i mentioned i dont want a RB30 please gees like.
How many people have all said that.
here is the low down skyline engines go bang not because of proper clutch adjustment but because crap in the crank not washed out at a nissan factory and assembled to cause some form of grit damage to mains and big end bearings which will lead to damage on a crank thrust washer which leads to even more damage.
Any ways skylines go pop because the Rb26 crank is fully counter weighted hence the reason i want a fully counter weighted crank .
Everyone thinks a Rb30 can be slapped into a R32 /R33 / R34 easily well good news it cant.
Mods to bonnet
Mods to pipes 
Mods to sump 
Mods to Ecu 

Plus you now have a engine that is not standard.
I want a standard rb26 that is a 2.6 litre that i can rev to 8500 rpm .
Not alot of power but reliable and a every day driver.

Rob quoted me for a fully build 10 000+rpm engine about 30 000NzD thats about 20 000 Usd 
A brand new Nur engine from Japan will cost around 11 000usd 

A strong rebuilt engine if done correctly will be done for about well 
Nitto Crank 
Nitto Conrods 
Je Pistons 
Nitto Uprated oil pump 

Roughly about 8000usd

So whats a better option here honestly .

GTR-Glenn please dont rag me, i have three standard conrods that weigh in at more then any after market Rod and are ovaled .
I wont get them standarized because thats a stupid thing to do in africa, no one will ever get it right.
I there fore have to go and buy a set of new rods because of the following.
Nissan conrods are cast and weigh alot 
Nissan conrods are good for the job of 600bhp or 550bhp
Nissan rods have the Rod bolt with Rod nut design which everyone knows isnt very strong nor good.
Nissan rods each are 180usd for new so thats 540 plus a set of rod bolts 130 = 670
A set of tomei rods from Rhdjapan are about 1200usd round figures?
Would you spend 700 dollars buying a normal nissan rod or 500 extra a get a set of H beam or even I beam nitto rods which are the same price.


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## Boosted (Jun 5, 2008)

adamsaiyad said:


> HA HA HA HA HA HA HA i cant stop laughing .


First of all, stop being a pratt. Second, read *and* understand what I've said.




adamsaiyad said:


> This thread rocks because you want to see my third engine go bang.



See point 2, above. I never said I wanted to see it go bang, I implied that I expect it to, due to your lack of knowledge of engine building.




adamsaiyad said:


> here is the low down skyline engines go bang not because of proper clutch adjustment but because crap in the crank not washed out at a nissan factory and assembled to cause some form of grit damage to mains and big end bearings which will lead to damage on a crank thrust washer which leads to even more damage.




What a crock of shit. No wonder Glenn doesn't take this thread seriously.




adamsaiyad said:


> I want a standard rb26 that is a 2.6 litre that i can rev to 8500 rpm .





adamsaiyad said:


> Nitto Crank
> Nitto Conrods
> Je Pistons
> Nitto Uprated oil pump



Yes, that's all standard RB26 isn't it!!




adamsaiyad said:


> Plus you now have a engine that is not standard.


Err I think you are somewhat confused as to what you want. I'll leave you to it now as I think I'm just adding to your confusion. 








ps: One last thing, are you going to do your own mapping?



:chuckle:


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## infamous_t (Jul 9, 2007)

adamsaiyad said:


> Rob quoted me for a fully build 10 000+rpm engine about 30 000NzD thats about 20 000 Usd
> A brand new Nur engine from Japan will cost around 11 000usd
> 
> A strong rebuilt engine if done correctly will be done for about well
> ...


Your comparing apples with oranges.

Rob's price for the RB30 would include a head and all/most ancillaries complete assembled, the Nur engine is complete, and your Nitto combo includes no machining or assembly costs.

Other mods you've mentioned for an rb30 are irrelevant as most would be changed or modified from an existing item to compensate with increased power levels regardless.

ps. stop talking shit.


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## Cris (Sep 17, 2007)

I'm assuming that you want to build this yourself.

If so and you really want a stock throw crank etc etc then it can all be built for you by any number of suppliers. You could contact any decent custom manufacturer of rods/pistons/whatever and get them to build exactly what you want. I doubt you'd find the pricing much different from any other quality brand. If you know what you want in detail then the brand is just the quality of the work carried out. Plenty of the custom boys supply racing teams and will provide you with stuff at least as good as the HKS or whatever branded product.

As a side point assuming that you want 600 crank bhp what turbos are you thinking of running? I'm sure that there are others who can advise you better but I was of the understanding that most turbos in the that range would run out of puff at high RPM. My point being if your turbos are beyond efficiency at say 7500rpm why bother revving up to 8500?


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## adamsaiyad (Aug 23, 2006)

Ive never had so much flaming on this forum 
Reason i said engines go bang because of dirt in the crank is because thats what happened to me on a brand new nissan engine Nur spec i might add that was rebuilt by nissan japan and sold to a japanese reseller its happened and it happened to me .

Im not trying to be cocky.

Im not trying to sound big headed .

No i am not going to be doing my own mapping because for a engine running at 450 before i get big turbos i wont need mapping .

I might consider was cris has said as it makes logical sense to get something assembled before hand and get it shipped to me .

And Rob did not mention any thing like turbos or ancillaries nor did he mention the link ecu that he would have to map before hand so i am not talking crap i am simply relaying information i was given.

Its funny how when some one starts talking a little sense and talking about common facts that are true or have been proven they get flamed thats the second person on this forum that has flamed me for asking a question and throwing an idea ......
Need a say more.

Robs price is high you have to admit plus i still have to install the engine fact is fact boys you cant run away from a 20 grand bill for a high reving engine.

his stock bottom end can take up 7500rpm, it needs mapping and doesnt include a head or uprated oil pump and costs you about 6000usd .

You need a good motor for 10 000+ rpm how much is it rob with turbos and map and tomei filled head please share your costs with us not that they are bad but in comparison to what i am after this is simply over KILL.

I need a high revving engine that can sustain 600 Bhp on garrett 2871r's with a hks F-con V pro and a hks boost controller. is that too hard to ask ??
no it isnt its not like a want a 1200 bhp daily driver.

So simple stock cranks can make big power yes but how reliable are they please any one care to share if they even dare rev to 8500rpm ......... NO

Read the other post about revs from kismet Captain all too scared and why ??
Because revs kill engines and rb26's hate high revs.

I doubt the garrett gt2871r's fall after 8500rpm because quite simply they are rated for 700bhp, and they are a newer designed turbo with less back pressure.
They use better comp wheels and bigger comp housings.
Their angle of the comp blades is sharper and therefore can flow more air at high boost with less restriction and less heat build up which makes them more effecient.
So am i wrong to ask for a nitto crank thats fully counterweighted and can rev to 10 000rpm even though i will never reach that but knowing that i shouldnt have to rebuild again in the near future.

Its not rocket science as another post i read said this exact same thing, its an engine its not a nasa space craft do everything correctly and you wont go wrong ?

The last two times i had engine failure it was because i was 
1. stupid
2. relying on other people to do their jobs correctly
3. scared to build and engine cause i thought a skyline engine was a complicated engine but comparing it to a new age VQ engine its piss easy
4. not really cared about power and safety

My main aim is to do this myself with the help of a few friends of which are engine builders and turbo technicians people who have built engines that havent failed unlike other companies i have paid and gotten not even an apology from in the past never mind a payout or a replacement engine.

Do it and do it right the FIRST TIME .

All i am asking for is advice not a flaming please can you all stop taking out other peoples pricing structures on me i am not in control of them or their companies or their advertising and marketing schemes.

What i was quoted is what i said .


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## Sub Boy (Jan 28, 2008)

LOL! on the bagging factory Nissan Cranks cause they are dirty!:lamer:

...You live in Africa, but are worried about rebuilding an engine, Buy an engine built somewhere like NZ or the UK or the USA then.


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## asiasi (Dec 22, 2007)

I have stock balanced crank 8700 rev limit, bounce it of the limiter 700bhp 10000 road miles,built in japan not a NUR engine!!! :thumbsup:


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## GT-R Glenn (Nov 9, 2002)

FFS 
My engine runs a modded factory crank
Modded factory rods
make 670 hp at the crank on pump gas 
revs to 8600 
has never broken anything ...
driven like its stolen at every car club event I do.

Im sick of all these threads that just go over and over the same subject
****en learn to search and learn to read and answer your own questions rather than trying to justify what you want because it contradicts what other people have given you as advice because it doesnt fit into how you have predetermined how you think the answer sound read.


Showing results 1 to 25 of 150 
Search took 7.07 seconds. 



> Do it and do it right the FIRST TIME .


or 3 or 4 or ......

Just go and spends thousands of $$$$ you dont need to


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## creedonsr20det (Aug 6, 2008)

ru' said:


> You can buy the best bits in the world, but if the build or map is rubbish you'll still destroy the engine...


so true..

in fact you can run 600bhp reliably for a long time on a pretty stock rb bottom end if the tune is good..mapping mapping mapping..

pistons,rod bolts and oil pumps aside the rest of the stock nissan parts are well up to the job..600bhp isnt massive power in the gtr tuning scene.

Build it right,map it perfectly,regular oil changes and drive it like your late for mass..no worries..

If you like high revs fit a crank damper..


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## adamsaiyad (Aug 23, 2006)

Gtr-Glenn
I think i get your point ........... Dont spend Big $$$$ unnecessarily.

I understand where you are coming from, some how i wish there was a chat function on this forum it would make my life easier in a sense.

In this case let me change the goal posts ...
I want to build an engine that will run a standard map at 2.6 litres,
I eventually want to run 900 Bhp.
Should i got with a Hks stroker, Tomei stroker, or nitto stroker?
Should i get tomei oil pump or nitto or Jun oil pump ?

I have a crank damper pulley its a ATI and its rated to over 1000Bhp its the big one with 25% over drive on the aircon.

At this point i just want safety not power, i want to get in my car and drive it like a stole it all day and not have the dam thing go bang a third time.

Maybe i should ask rob what a standard Rb26dett built strong and reliable will cost me as maybe this is a better option.
Rob can you comment ?
I just want a 24U block not a 05U.
Whats inside counts for alot but they need to be strong...

I will now go and use the search function some more.
Thankyou all for your input and advice .

Ps GTR-Glenn who built your engine for you ?
Can i ask if it was balanced with the Flywheel or without ?

Get this i got some one to ask nismo Japan about balancing cranks etc.
they had this to say...
Crank shafts are balanced at factory and engine assemblies are done at factory.
To fit a Nismo twin plate coppermix clutch we do not disassemble a engine and balance the crank shaft with the clutch and flywheel assembly, we merely assemble it onto the engine and give the customer back his car?

In the case of a brand new engine it would be the same assembled already we just bolt on the flywheel and assemble the clutch system .

This goes against everything has said about balancing on engines doesnt it ?


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## adamsaiyad (Aug 23, 2006)

*Still awaiting some pics of the crank*



Red R Racing said:


> ill line you up a Jun and Nitto side by side and photograph for you tomm. Ill also point out some important differences you will be able to clearly see....the Nitto's are definately the pick. Andrew at Nitto is a top bloke who is easy to deal with which also helps.


Hi there Red R please can i kindly ask you to post some pics of the cranks as you said you would ?
I would like to see some high quality pics as i would like to actually see the differences?
Thanks


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## GT-R Glenn (Nov 9, 2002)

> Ps GTR-Glenn who built your engine for you ?


I did ....

And no ones flaming you ....


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## bigkev (Mar 2, 2008)

adamsaiyad said:


> here is the low down skyline engines go bang not because of proper clutch adjustment but because crap in the crank not washed out at a nissan factory and assembled to cause some form of grit damage to mains and big end bearings which will lead to damage on a crank thrust washer which leads to even more damage.


ive only just found his thread but having had a quick skim read, im afraid i dont agree with this statement. who told you this? my advice to you is three fold, 1. listen to peoples advice and take it on board, 2. get yourself on the phone to a reputable gtr specialist and ask their advice. 3. if you do by some miracle manage to build this engine yourself DO NOT TRY AND MAP IT YOURSELF!

and to answer your thread, yes tomei rods are good.
kev


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## bigkev (Mar 2, 2008)

adamsaiyad said:


> The nissan crank is ok for what it was made for, put it under pressure and stress and you will notice it has weaknesses, so essentially i know i can never have a bulletproof car,


just out of curiosity, what is its weakness then?

and also, there is no such thing as a bulletproof car.

k


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## KantoStyle (Jun 6, 2007)

adamsaiyad said:


> I eventually want to run 900 Bhp.
> Should i got with a Hks stroker, Tomei stroker, or nitto stroker?
> Should i get tomei oil pump or nitto or Jun oil pump ?


just wondering, why you ask to compare other premium brands when you are not willing to pay more for them anyway.


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## KantoStyle (Jun 6, 2007)

bigkev said:


> just out of curiosity, what is its weakness then?
> 
> and also, there is no such thing as a bulletproof car.
> 
> k


well there are bullet proof cars lined with kevlar :thumbsup: they may not haul arse as fast as a GTR though.


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## Kevingo (Feb 21, 2006)

I don't want to be involved in your discussions lol! But i can probably provide you with some pics, we've got both here, JUN and Nitto both are the bollocks for me 

Design wise they are quite the same, JUN uses a little less material which makes it a lighter but therefore it can handle less rpm and Hp.

It is always hard to promote a new product, something people don't know off yet.. Thats why we don't bitch on other products we just let the cars and people talk who felt and used it. I think thats the best way..

So guys Piece up! lol (Y)

Grtzz Kevin


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## Jobi Joba (Apr 19, 2004)

JD74 said:


> 1) Manley or Brian Crower Standard H-Beams w/ARP2000 Fasteners (*$600 USD*)
> 2) Manley or Brian Crower Premium H-Beams w/ARP 625+ Fasteners (*$900 USD*)


Where do you find those parts?


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## Red R Racing (Aug 22, 2009)

Building your engine to suit your set-up is pretty straight forward. Properly prepped 05U block, Nitto oil pump, prepped stock crank (im making around 1100hp with mine and turn it to 10500rpm), Nitto spec JE pistons, prepped stock rods with arp's or the Nitto's rods if you must spend the $$, ACL race series bearings, Nitto head and full gasket kit, N1 water pump and new Nissan head and main bolts.

I built a lesser engine for my wife's racecar and made over 620hp at the wheels. It copped an absolute caning for 3 seasons, won her a National title and set a few records before the N1 oil pump cried enough while launching off the ignition cut limiter at 9500rpm.

Its not the parts that make the build....its how its put together, ran-in and tuned thats the most critical.

Ive assembled more RB26 based stroker engines than most guys on here so i am a little qualified to comment. The Nitto kits are the best money can buy and the only thing ive seen comparable in precision, durability and quality of finish is the now discontinued HKS step 3 kits. When the step 3 kits were in their prime they cost more than double what you would pay for the Nitto 2.7. Forget the Tomei kit as they are not what they used to be and are not a full counterweight crankshaft. The Nitto pistons are on par with the JUN items but the ring package Nitto offer is superior, Nitto rods also trump the JUN items in regards to strength with improvements in both design, material selection and rod bolt option. Nitto crankshafts also are a nose in front for similar reasons.

Id do one of 2 things...build a simple basic package similar to the one at the top of this post yourself, that way any errors wont incurr a massive clean up bill if it goes pear shaped or go Nitto stroker and get the assembly outsourced and have it delivered as a drop in package. Both engines need to be conservatively tuned due to your location and quality of fuel available for use.


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## RSVFOUR (May 1, 2006)

adamsaiyad said:


> Gtr-Glenn
> 
> In this case let me change the goal posts ...
> 
> ...


You cant really run 500 bhp properly on a standard map let alone 900

Also the two options above are sooooooooooo different that I suggest you choose one or the other because the build will be completely different.

Main rule for building an RB engine (IMHO)

Decide what you want power wise . (this will determine spec)
make sure you can afford it 
then build it 
and whatever spec GET IF MAPPED PROPERLY


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