# My Transmission :(



## tintin1929 (Aug 14, 2019)

Hi I'm heartbroken. Hoping someone can help! 

R35 GTR 2017 model it's done 13,000 miles. Was running a COBB ECU and TCM map. The car mostly sits in an enclosed garage and barely gets driven. 

Today, I change the map on the TCM before starting the car from cold. (I'll explain why in a moment). Once the map was changed, started it up, all seemed good. Backed it out of the garage and left it idling for 5 mins on a slightly tilted driveway (front was up). Went to back out on the road and it needed a bit of a pedal push, more so than usual. Put it into drive and got lots of revs, lots of slip. Then error message about T/M overheating. Pulled the car up, left it to rest. 

About 10 mins later, started it up, it came up with T/M malfunction. Read the code it said P2715. It clears the code but comes back as soon as the vehicle is started again. It allows me to select reverse but won't drive in reverse all. Will only allow gear 2 in drive but high revs and lots of slip. 

I'm about to do a transmission oil and filter, would this cure it? Help! 

(The reason for changing the map is COBB support asked me to put the factory TCM map back on as my launch control was giving me loads of gearbox slip and no power to the road so they wanted to see if switching back would help).


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## besty (Apr 10, 2009)

My first call would be a chat with Litchfield if you're near to Tewkesbury.


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## tintin1929 (Aug 14, 2019)

besty said:


> My first call would be a chat with Litchfield if you're near to Tewkesbury.


I'm not near them unfortunately. I'll call them Monday though. I'm in the east of England


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## Davec4 (May 23, 2020)

Where in the east of england are you? Im near Saxmundham.


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## matty32 (Dec 18, 2005)

Sounds like the transmission was slipping and having issues regardless of the map

i highly doubt an oil change will fix it 

get it to Kaiser if you in the south


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## tintin1929 (Aug 14, 2019)

Davec4 said:


> Where in the east of england are you? Im near Saxmundham.


I'm in St Neots PE19. Perhaps not as far to the east as I made out lol


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## tintin1929 (Aug 14, 2019)

matty32 said:


> Sounds like the transmission was slipping and having issues regardless of the map
> 
> i highly doubt an oil change will fix it
> 
> get it to Kaiser if you in the south


Thanks. Happy to strip the sump off and have a look at those solenoids there but not sure which ones I'm looking for!


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## matty32 (Dec 18, 2005)

Just get it to a pro 

don’t drive it. Get it transported and inspected


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## tintin1929 (Aug 14, 2019)

matty32 said:


> Just get it to a pro
> 
> don’t drive it. Get it transported and inspected


I like to learn 🙂👍


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## matty32 (Dec 18, 2005)

Is your 35 in warranty ? If you start messing about with it , you may find it an issue with Nissan


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## tintin1929 (Aug 14, 2019)

That's a good question. What's the warranty on these? Google said 3 yrs. I'm the 2nd owner and it's a 2017.


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## snuffy (Mar 26, 2014)

tintin1929 said:


> That's a good question. What's the warranty on these? Google said 3 yrs. I'm the 2nd owner and it's a 2017.


Nissan will not be entertaining any warranty claim if you have modified anything, let along the ECU and TCM.


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## tintin1929 (Aug 14, 2019)

Ok, so back to my original question before we got sidetracked with the warranty question. 

Anyone got an idea of where this solenoid is located please?


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## tintin1929 (Aug 14, 2019)

Never mind, I found this which is helpful:


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## Mcgill (Oct 4, 2020)

Hope you get your car sorted mate I’m based in Cambridge too when your car is fixed give me a message we’ll go for a drive


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## tintin1929 (Aug 14, 2019)

Mcgill said:


> Hope you get your car sorted mate I’m based in Cambridge too when your car is fixed give me a message we’ll go for a drive


Hey! Thanks and will do. I think we saw eachother a while back (god, must have been 2 yrs back)? You were driving into a retail park as I was driving out? Was that you?


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## tintin1929 (Aug 14, 2019)

tintin1929 said:


> Hey! Thanks and will do. I think we saw eachother a while back (god, must have been 2 yrs back)? You were driving into a retail park as I was driving out? Was that you? (PS mine is white with grey wheels)


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## Mcgill (Oct 4, 2020)

Could of been mate, but be good to catch up


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## SKNAM (Nov 30, 2018)

Have you tried reloading the Cobb TCM map? And/or that you loaded the right one? Worth retrying that for the sake a few mins to rule it out.


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## tintin1929 (Aug 14, 2019)

SKNAM said:


> Have you tried reloading the Cobb TCM map? And/or that you loaded the right one? Worth retrying that for the sake a few mins to rule it out.


Thanks for the very good idea. I should have mentioned since that I've uninstalled the Cobb map entirely, then reset the fault code, then tried it again but still the same issue. Even tried reflashing the Cobb map that was on there before I flashed the one this morning. Unfortunately still the same behaviour and error code


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## Simonh (May 24, 2002)

to me it sounds like the clutch plates are fucked.


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## tintin1929 (Aug 14, 2019)

I hope not  be a mighty big job if they are.


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## Simonh (May 24, 2002)

Yeah it is not a good place to be.


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## 4wdnoob (Sep 1, 2009)

Jacks Transmissions


Jacks Transmissions is not only a top quality transmission rebuild company, but we also offer sales of transmission parts and have a fully operational general service center for automotive repairs.




www.jackstransmissions.com


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## Kristofor (Sep 28, 2018)

Davec4 said:


> Saxmundham.


I'm near Framlingham


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## snuffy (Mar 26, 2014)

matty32 said:


> Just get it to a pro
> 
> don’t drive it. Get it transported and inspected


That is what I'd be doing as well.

You wont want to hear this, but I had something similar to what you describe (well, ish). T/M malfunction and only about to select 2nd, 4th and 6th. It was a snapped shift fork, so box out, replacement fork, thing it fits on to and a new clutch as well (might as well since the gearbox was out of the car). The car at the time would have been about 5 years ago with 20k miles on it and I just tool around in it.


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## barry P. (May 9, 2010)

Phone AC Speedtech and have a chat with Alan. I suspect you will need the box removed from the car to resolve the issue.


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## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

I think you need to look at why it had clutch slip initially.


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## barry P. (May 9, 2010)

Have you still got transmission pressure on the MFD display?


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## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

I would drop the oil and put it through a car paint filter, take the pan filter off and washit out and do the same again.


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## tintin1929 (Aug 14, 2019)

Wow thanks for all the replies all and for the link to the helpful guide. Please forgive me if I don't reply to each one but know I really appreciate it!!!]

From the looks of the guide posted and ones I have found online, it certainly doesn't look like the GR6 is too painful to work on. 

I happened to find Jacks Transmisions online yesterday and found a video on youtube which explains the solenoid behaviours. I'm very appreciateive of their video and have emailed them to say thanks. I've posted a picture of the solenoid behaviours as I understand it from their video.










(hope that's readable! I've attached a copy too just in case).

I'm not ruling out the failed clutch or fork issue but I suspect from the error code, the first place to start is the solenoid(s), so this is what I'm thinking:

1. Drain oil, remove the sump
2. Remove the solenoid/ACM block
3. Replace the failed/jammed solenoid (might just do them all, I know they are expensive but don't want this issue again!)
4. Refit, replace both filters, refll with new oil
5. Reset error code and test

I know there's a couple of comments suggesting I should leave alone and take to a specialist andI thank you for the honest views. I've not told you about my history. I've got a mechanical expertise and am not afraid of transmission/engine rebuild work having done both on Supras, Skylines (32 to 34 (...and now 35 LOL), 300ZXs, Imprezzas, Evos, GT4s, 200SXs, Silvia's, etc... I just appreciate knowing where to start 

However, I'm not macho about it, I will raise my hand to ask for help when I'm not sure about something. So with that said, I'll also contact AC and Jacks to see if they can offer any guidance. I'll need to buy parts and maybe even upgrades if any are within easy reach so the most helpful will get my custom 

Thanks to everyone for their support, input and help. I'll keep updating as I go along.


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## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

Fair play to having a go yourself.
Take lots of pictures as you strip it for reference.
I don't know of a U.K. stockist for the filter but power enhancer flog oil at the right Money, try and use Audi 20 as a discount code.

keep us posted


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## tintin1929 (Aug 14, 2019)

I know Litchfield have the Dodson motorsport transmission filters. I've bought the 'lifetime' metal mesh filter from there some time ago. 

Thanks for thet tip on the oil


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## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

I used Litchfields ones supplied by Dodson.
The flat one is Filtrans manufactured.


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## 4wdnoob (Sep 1, 2009)

@tintin1929 good luck with it dude 👍, maybe post some photos of the job while you do it and let us know what pitfalls you come up against


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## PaulcbaGtr (Apr 11, 2020)

I admire you for having a go and wish you luck with it. 
Personally speaking i wouldn't know where to start,so it would be trailered to Litchfields. 

Hope you save some money


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## tintin1929 (Aug 14, 2019)

@4wdnoob - I'll take pics as I go along (if I do go ahead and do it!)

@PaulcbaGtr - Thanks. It's less the money than the thrill of the learning


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## 4wdnoob (Sep 1, 2009)

Watch this video mate


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## tintin1929 (Aug 14, 2019)

Thanks for this, good intro into how to get access the ACM.  I've got that bit down, just need to know which of those solenoids has failed, I suspect it's the tall ones at each end, they control fluid flow to the 'smaller' solenoids


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## 4wdnoob (Sep 1, 2009)

Mate I properly got my Nerd on before I bought my 35 so watched lots of videos on YouTube 

Jacks Transmission do YouTube videos too
Here's a link to one.


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## Simonh (May 24, 2002)

Fair play for having a go, make sure you keep us updated


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## tintin1929 (Aug 14, 2019)

An update!

Left the battery disconnected overnight, went out today to do some data logging on it so I could check the reference values. However, before I could data log, I needed the Cobb to connect to the TCM ECU. Because I uninstalled it to rule it out as a problem, I had to reflash the TCM. Once that was complete, I could begin the data logging. 

As I began the data logging, shifted to drive, moved a bit, shifted to reverse, moved a bit... and so on. *Suddenly works fine!!!!! * I don't know why it's suddenly sprung to life again. I drove it up the road, then a bit further and a bit further, manual through the gears and auto in normal and R modes, reverse, etc.... all good. 

I'm now wondering if this was a software issue all along and/or the battery reset did something. Or of course it could be pure fluke and the problem might come back.🤷‍♂️ I'm not quite happy though, if it had failed, it might have been better as I'll always have a worry in the back of my mind about the issue coming back. 

My next step is to carry out the gearbox service on the weekend so at that point, I'll drop the ACM module and have a look at the general condition whilst replacing the filters, cleaning the sump and refilling with new oil.

For the moment, thanks to everyone who's been following the thread and posted messages - even if it's just to show support, it's really appreciated


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## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

Glad to see your up and running again. I think a clutch relearn is in order if it's been slipping, that's if it does'nt do it when you put the map on.


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## tintin1929 (Aug 14, 2019)

Skint said:


> Glad to see your up and running again. I think a clutch relearn is in order if it's been slipping, that's if it does'nt do it when you put the map on.


I should have mentioned I did that as soon as it was up to operating temperature. All seems good. I'll report back once I've done the gearbox service and looked over the ACM


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## SKNAM (Nov 30, 2018)

Glad its sorted. It could well be a battery and ECU issue. I once hit a bumpy road surface (series of rough potholes) and the car went in to limp mode and flashed up TCM/ECU visit dealer etc message. Car on Cobb tune. Cleared the codes and car went back to original map. Did it again two days later. Turned out to be a slightly loose battery connection. Sorted that out and has not done it again, 2 years and counting....spoke to Cobb at the time and it turns out that if the battery drops below a certain voltage it can cause the software to go into a safe mode as the ECU is trying to "work" outside the parameters it is expecting. Might have done something similar in your case? Think it was Barry P asked about trans oil pressure in an earlier post - if that is showing as OK then I wouldn't think it's a piston seal failure and if its selecting gear OK looks like the "mechanics" are all good. Both then suggest electrical/software fault to my (admittedly untrained) eye


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## Davec4 (May 23, 2020)

Been following this post and really glad for you and your wallet.


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## tintin1929 (Aug 14, 2019)

Another update 

Dropped the oil, sump, filters and ACM module last night - let me just say; it's so much easier than I thought it would be!

Here are some pictures, first, the oil draining:









Next, the transmission sump being dropped. Note the angle. If you're dropping the sump and it's a flat pan, it's always best to lower the bolts and remove them in order so it tilts towards the drain hole - that's how you save yourself being covered in oil!!!









Once the sump is removed, the bottom of the box is exposed.









The large dark grey square with a diamond shape mesh is a filter. It's not fixed in any way other than pushed in, so it's a case of grabbing it and pulling it down. Note, when its pulled out, a load of oil will follow!

Then you see the ACM module. This is the part that does the gear selection. NOTE there are little holes on here which keep the pistons from moving. I realised this once I removed it... it's important to put something in these holes (I used copper wire) to keep the pistons from rotating otherwise the positions of the pistons will not be detected correctly by the sensors! It also makes it easier to like the pistons up with the shifter forks:









This is how it looks when it's removed. The pistons which select the gears are on the left, the solenoids which control the pistons on the right under and around the black cover).









You may see in the picture above, there were some metal filings on the pistons, close to the piston position sensors (the grey/blac coloured blocks). I used a stronger magnet to remove these away from the pistons/sensors. 

I began removing the solenoids and inspecting them. I used some carb cleaner to clean them (NOTE: NOT BRAKE CLEANER, this might damage them) and shook them up and down to ensure they moved freely. 

















You'll note there are different types of solenoid. The one above is the Clutch A/B solenoid. There are 2 of them. The one below is the piston control solenoid (the ones i've labeled solenoids 1 to 4 on the diagram I posted up a few posts back.

NOTE: when removing the piston control solenoid, be very careful. Underneath them lay a spring, a ball bearing and a small casing.









I removed all of these components, cleaned everything and checked the ports for any debris, cleaned the ports and gave them a little carb cleaner too:


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## tintin1929 (Aug 14, 2019)

I've got a video of the solenoid and how it sounds when it's free. I'm not sure how to post it other than adding a Youtube link!






This picture is more just for reference. It essentially shows that this is a manual gearbox with automation. The ACM module selects the gear by moving the pistons which in turn engage the forks that they mate to. If it didn't have the ACM module, you would have had a gear lever in the car, and a clutch pedal (hope that helps explain the role of the ACM module).









I removed the old paper secondary filter which is also up in the box and replaced it with a stainless one. Some say you should keep the paper one which filters a finer level of particulate than the metal one. I tend to agree but I think there's a balance between starvation caused by excellent filtration, and good oil flow with decent filtration.



















I cleaned the sump and the magnet thoroughly, there was some sludge on the magnet but nothing extraordinary I don't think? Although this is the first GR6 box I've worked on:










I dont have more pictures as it was getting late! But I then replaced the large square filter with a new one and put it all back together.

*Findings and conclusion so far:*
When I dropped the transmission oil, it absolutely reaked of burnt clutch.. like a learner driver has been riding the clutch in traffic up a hill on a hot day kind of smell. The oil was also black and very goopy/thick. I suspect this was very much overdue a transmission service.

After putting it all back together, refilling with oil and following the heat up, changing of gears cycles and adjusting the oil level, I can tell it feels different in selecting gear. It didn't seem to 'clunk' into gear and didn't seem to shudder/judder at low speed movement.

That said, I haven't driven it yet (as I said, it was late and I live in the countryside so it's too dark to break down LOL). I'll be doing the rear diff service today, then taking it for a drive. Do a clutch relearn then drive again. let's see how it goes.

Look out for an update!


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## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

You should have cleaned the body out as there’s a lot of small filters in there.

other than that, great job.


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## besty (Apr 10, 2009)

tintin1929 said:


> I've got a video of the solenoid and how it sounds when it's free. I'm not sure how to post it other than adding a Youtube link!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Congrats - glad to hear you've managed to sort the problem.


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## tintin1929 (Aug 14, 2019)

Skint said:


> You should have cleaned the body out as there’s a lot of small filters in there.
> 
> other than that, great job.


Darn! Didn't realise there were more filters if I split the module. I'll do that on the next service. I've set a reminder for 3000 miles


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## tintin1929 (Aug 14, 2019)

Took the car out tonight, drove it extremely slowly and heated the box up. Got it to operating temperature, then did a clutch relearn. After that, I took it for a really good hammering. 

All fine now! Thanks so much to everyone following, posting and contributing


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## 4wdnoob (Sep 1, 2009)

Go on lad! 👍


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## TREG (May 20, 2004)

Great news mate. 
As they say switch it off and back on again = Fixed


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## Davec4 (May 23, 2020)

Well done mate, give it some...


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## SKNAM (Nov 30, 2018)

Nice one, glad its sorted. Thanks for taking the time to explain what to do and the very useful photos/write up


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## Simonh (May 24, 2002)

You’ve made that look much easier than it probably is! Nice work.


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## tintin1929 (Aug 14, 2019)

Simonh said:


> You’ve made that look much easier than it probably is! Nice work.


Probably!  But if anyone ever needs any support, I'm only a PM away


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## Grum71 (Nov 12, 2008)

Great write up - and a positive and inexpensive result.
Top job, that Man!


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## Ballzie71 (Jul 8, 2020)

Hi , I’ve been reading your thread and my situation is identical , same code everything ,the battery also was a little Lazy but managed to start when the problem occurred , MY17 has done 12k with a Litchfield Stg 1 . From your thread i gather your quite mechanically minded / or a mechanic whereas I’m not , I have a ECUTEK Bluetooth code reader and have cleared the codes but return , would you mind in layman’s terms provide a brief rundown on what I should do in the hope it springs back into life
Thanks in advance


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## Simonh (May 24, 2002)

I think the first thing to try is battery off for 24 hours and give it a good charge at the same time!


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## Ballzie71 (Jul 8, 2020)

Simonh said:


> I think the first thing to try is battery off for 24 hours and give it a good charge at the same time!


i had previously done that (48hrs ) car starts fine


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## Knot Schure (Mar 10, 2021)

tintin1929 said:


> Never mind, I found this which is helpful:


You cost me 2hrs, checking many of Jack's videos...


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## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

Live and learn that’s what it’s all about😊👍


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## Ballzie71 (Jul 8, 2020)

Update: 

Car was collected by Litchfield and diagnosis was low clutch pressure pointing to Piston B seal failure which they said was highly rare on such a low mileage and model year , once Gearbox dropped and opened up more unlikely instead of a rip or tear in the seal ,the seal had separated from the metal ring causing the drop in pressure , they fitted a newly delivered Dodson seal at a 1/3rd of the cost of a OEM one (£88 -£250) .

Got a case open with Nissan looking for some recourse due to the unusual failure. Update on my progress.

oh and whilst there she was treated to a stage 4 on standard back box which put out 642bhp on the dyno which is pretty strong without a free flowing pipe according to Litchfield.


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## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

You can’t buy oem clutch seals, Infact I don’t think you can buy 1 single part internally from the gearbox.

If the car was under warranty then I would have sent it there as they replace the full transmission if the claims successful.


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## TREG (May 20, 2004)

Skint said:


> You can’t buy oem clutch seals, Infact I don’t think you can buy 1 single part internally from the gearbox.
> 
> If the car was under warranty then I would have sent it there as they replace the full transmission if the claims successful.



Would a MY17 still be covered under warranty?


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## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

you’ve got the std 3 yr taking you to 2020 then extending it? Or used car warranty depending on how he bought it?nissan or otherwise.

Not really a concern now as Litchfields have had it apart, out of interest what was the total charge for the gearbox repair?


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## Ballzie71 (Jul 8, 2020)

Skint said:


> You can’t buy oem clutch seals, Infact I don’t think you can buy 1 single part internally from the gearbox.
> 
> If the car was under warranty then I would have sent it there as they replace the full transmission if the claims successful.


 Litchfield gave me a couple of quotes and 1
Option was for a OEM seal or a Dodson option , 

The car is out of warranty unfortunately .

cost of the repair was approx £1700


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## Ballzie71 (Jul 8, 2020)

TREG said:


> Would a MY17 still be covered under warranty?


Nope !


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## Simonh (May 24, 2002)

Did you get any other work done while the box was off and in bits? I have to say I would have been tempted to do some sensible upgrades…


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## snuffy (Mar 26, 2014)

Simonh said:


> Did you get any other work done while the box was off and in bits? I have to say I would have been tempted to do some sensible upgrades…


When one of my shift forks sheered, I had various bits upgraded, include the forks, shifter shaft thing and an uprated clutch as well. It had only done 20k miles or so, but as the box was sitting on the workbench, an uprated clutch seemed like a very good idea.


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