# A guide to safe washing for your GTR



## *MAGIC* (Oct 21, 2009)

In this thread I hope to explain some good practices for washing a car that help in the prevention of inflicting swirl marks to paint. 


*Whats Wrong With A Sponge?*

Millions of people wash their car using a sponge. But if you read the threads on this forum you will see that hardly any members are washing their cars using a traditional sponge... Why is that? It all comes down to the flat flace of the sponge:

Imagine automotive paintwork with your typical dirt and grit paricles sutck on the top of the paint, that you want to wash off to revela your car's shine. Some of these dirt particles are sharp:

Now, if you place a sponge down ontop of these grit particles as you would do if you were washing your car with a sponge, the grit particles become trapped between the face of the sponge and the paint - they have no where to go owing to the flat face of the sponge:



When you wipe the sponge across the paintwork, you wipe the sharp grit particles straight across the paint. As they move over the paint, the dirt particles leave a thin hairline scratch:


These little scratches are highly visible in bright light because they catch the light, and this is what gives you the dreaded swirl marks that rob your paint of gloss and colour and ruin the car's look. A pic of bad swirl marks, the result of sponge washing of a car:



*Wash Mitts*

Lambswool and Sheepswool wash mitts have been developped to get around the problems of sponges trapping grit particles by the flat face. If you run your fingers through a lambwool mitt, you can see that it is deep pile and not flat faced:



Returning to the grit partciles on paintwork, when the wash mitt is placed onto them, the grit particles are absorbed into the mitt - safely away from paintwork so that they cannot scratch the paint:


Therefore, sweeping the mitt across the paint doesn't sweep the grit over the paint also and so you don't inflict lots of tiny hairline scratches. 

Note: While washmitts are considerbaly better than sponges, it is impossible to completely avoid inflicting the odd swirl marks here and there using a wash mitt. What follows in this thread are tips on how to keep these inflicted swirls to an absolute minimum.


*Which Wash Mitt?*

There are a great number of washmitts on the marked nowadays, ranging from lambswool and sheepswool to cotton chenille to microfibre. In my experience the best mitts are the lambswool and sheepswool. When choosing a mitt, choose one with a soft deep pile that will be kind to paintwork. Two excellent mitts are:

Meguiars Lambswool Wash Mitt
Eurow Sheepskin Wash Mitt

and there are others too. 


*So Many Shampoos! Which to Choose?*

At the end of the day, shampoo choice for your car is going to come down to personal prefernce. But there are so many shampoos on the market its hard to know which ones to go for! A couple of things to look for when choosing a car shampoo: 

1. Lubricity in the washing solution - you want a shampoo that makes the washing solution feel nice and lubricated so that dirt particles can be encapsulated by this lubricant and any that aren't absorbed into the wash mitt will slide off the paint without scratching in the rinsing water. Soapy suds are pleasing and can make car washing fun, but lubricated wash solution is more important. 

2. A shampoo should contain no harsh detergents if you are washing a car that you have spent many hours polishing, sealing and waxing. Harsh detergents strip wax straight off the paintwork leaving your paint surface dried out and unprotected. Fairy Liquid is therefore a big no no for washing cars. You feel what happens to the sking on your hand if in prolonged contact with harsh detergents, it dires the skin out - it will do similar damage to paint. 

With this in mind, there are still a huge number of car shampoos that fit the bill - ones that I have used and rate are the following, so if you're struggling on which to choose, try one of the following:

My own PH-Neutral shampoo 
Zaino Z7
Meguiars #62 Bodywork Shampoo & Conditioner
Meguiars Gold Class Bodywork Shampoo & Conditioner
Meguiars Hyper Wash (awsome dilution ratio of 400:1 - lasts ages!)


*What is the "Two-Bucket Method"*

Again, millions of people use a single bucket of car wash solution to wash their car, but if you read the threads on this site you will find most members wash their cars using the "Two-Bucket Method" - whats that?

As suggested by the name, the two bucket method uses two buckets, not one. In thie first bucket, you have your car wash solution as normal. In the second bucket you have clean fresh water. First off you soak your mitt in the wash solution and begin washing the car (as described below). Then, before dunking the wash mitt back into the wash solution, you rinse it out in the second bucket of fresh water - this rinses out the dirt and grit particles from this mitt so that they cannot come into contact with your paint, reducing the number of swirls inflicted. 

A grit-guard is also a very worthwhile investment and sits at the bottom of the bucket (I have two, one in the rinsing bucket and one in the wash solution bucket). When dunking you mitt into the fresh water bucket, rub it across the grit guard to increase the amount of grit particles which are removed from the mitt. Also, it keeps them trapped at the bottom of the bucket so even less chance of the mitt picking them back up and them reaching your paintwork to inflict scratches.



*Here I describe the generic technique I use to wash cars...*
*
Wheels, Arches, Door Jambs:*

Start with these. When washing your wheels using a wheel brush, the shampoo solution (or wheel cleaner solution) can spray up onto paintwork, and if youve just cleaned the paintwork, you'll end up needing to clean it again to remove the dirty spray from wheels! Don't forget to open all doors and boot and clean the doorjambs and the insides of the door (without getting wash solution into the locking mechanisms, I cover these up) - these areas can pick up a lot of dirt as well and it adds something a little extra to open the door and see the jambs as clean as the rest of the car as these areas are often forgotten about. 
*
Pre-Rinsing*

This loosens up dirt and wets the paintwork ready for washing. Using a hose pipe, direct a *gentle spray* of water at the paintwork at a shallow angle. If you blast the paintwork with high pressure at ninety degrees to the paintwork, you'll force grit into the paint and cause scatches. Just a gentle spray of water to wet the paintwork is all that is required. If you don't have access to a hose, use a watering can with the rose fitted to produce a gentle spary of water:

*
Shampooing:*

This is the major stage of the washing process, and the time when most scratches can be inflicted if care is not taken. This removes fresh surface contimaniation from paintwork such as dust, grit, mud, road film etc... Add the correct amount of car wash solution (according to the dilution ratio on the bottle) to your bucket and fill with water to produces suds and lubricated wash solution:

The water can be cold, or warm - I prefer warm water as it keeps my hands warm, especially in winter!! 

Now, use the two bucket method described above. Use two washmitts - one for the top areas of the car (roof, bonnet, upper sides above the wheel arch line) and one for the lower areas (below the wheel arch line, front and rear bumpers). Use a light parallel motion when washing, with out applying forceful pressure that will inflict scratches. 

If a mark is stubborn and wont come off with gentle movement of the wash mitt, it will require a stronger cleaner such as tar remover or clay. Start from the roof and work down, therefore the large quantities of dirt that form on the lower parts of car are not transferred to the traditionally cleaner upper areas of the car. Try to avoid letting the shampoo dry on the paintwork as this will cause streaks and soap spots, for this reason try to avoid washing in direct sunlight. If you are in direct sunlight, it may be neccessary to wash and rinse a panel art a time. Continue until the car is completed.
*
Rinsing:*

Once washed, the next step is to rinse away the soap bubbles and film. If using a hose I first of all use a light spary of water to wet the paintwork (using the rose on the watering can), just like the pre-rinsing step. Then follow this up with a flow of water from the hose (rose off the water can this time). Most shampoos are free rinsing and require this flow of water to make the rinsing water "sheet" off of the paintwork. (This sheeting effect will work best on well sealed and waxed paintwork). On a sealed/waxed car, keep rinsing until the water sheets cleanly off the paintwork and leaves behind only water beads and not flat regions of water. This makes the car essentially self drying! Rinse from the top of the car down. 

*Drying:*

Another risk stage as far as scrathes are concerned. First off, I find that using a waffleweave drying towel is far safer and more effective than using a chamois leather. A couple of examples of good quality waffleweave drying towels are:

Meguiars Water Magnet Drying Towel
Poorboys Waffleweave

Also Pakshak towels are very very good too! Rather than sweeping the towel across the paintwork to remove the water, I prefer to pat dry the car. The sweeping of the towel has more risk of inflicting scratches as stray grit particles may be picked up and inadvertantly swept across the paint inflicting swirl marks. Instead, pat dry the car by laying the towel down over the wet paintwork. Gently pat the towel, then lift off the paintwork. The towel will absorb the water to dry the paint. A thin flim of water may be left behind but this will quickly evaporate to leave a sparkling, streak free finish.

And there we have it - safe washing technique to avoid inflicting dreaded swirls into paintwork. :smokin:

Robbie


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## hardcoRe (Nov 1, 2010)

Thanks for these Rob.....will surely be helpful :thumbsup:


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## MR-ROADRUNNER (Feb 19, 2007)

Excellent info.:bowdown1:


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## robkellypga (Sep 17, 2010)

*Washing Car Tips..*

Brilliant, Thanks for your time + patience to put this all together..
Some great tips. Great article Robbie:bowdown1:


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## KingOfTheGT-R (May 21, 2011)

Great read!

What about polish Rob? I use autoglym, are they recommended by you?


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## Lubo69GTR (Mar 4, 2010)

MR-ROADRUNNER said:


> Excellent info.:bowdown1:


+1 :bowdown1:


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## *MAGIC* (Oct 21, 2009)

KingOfTheGT-R said:


> Great read!
> 
> What about polish Rob? I use autoglym, are they recommended by you?


There is nothing wrong with AutoGlym it has been around long before me and you combined and has pleased millions of car lovers throughout the world.

I personally use the Zaino system as the durability is very good and it gives great depth and mirror like shine on all paint colours :thumbsup:

Robbie


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## NAV GTR (Apr 9, 2012)

Hey Robbie, i use turtle professional wash and wax, I also use Mer ultimate car polish. Are these any good or should i change??


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## ferruh4real (May 10, 2007)

thanks alot!


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## *MAGIC* (Oct 21, 2009)

NAV GTR said:


> Hey Robbie, i use turtle professional wash and wax, I also use Mer ultimate car polish. Are these any good or should i change??


If your happy with the results mate that is all that matters :thumbsup:


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## ikeysolomon (May 3, 2012)

The neighbours think I'm mad, but I use a leaf blower to dry the car off initially. This gets most of the water off and you then need just a light once over with a proper drying towel.

Ikey


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## Steveline (Oct 6, 2010)

Very nice tips there Robbie, thanks for sharing. I would never use a squeegee or "blade" ever again after seeing the scratches left behind by it, they should be band! My car is being re-painted and id like to keep it looking new. What do you know/think of these products?
Kits // G|Techniq

I have been using Turtle Wax Clear Ice previously as its just so simple to apply, and you can cover everything in it without too much care as there is no white residue left!

Many thanks,
Steve


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## james1 (Aug 23, 2010)

I ve been using g tech stuff lately and really like it, after using lots of stuff I rank it up there with Zaino but I m no professional either.....

Turtle wax?! I think the gtr deserves better if I m honest! 

J


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## shh! (Nov 9, 2008)

i was lost and confused at the point where it said wash??:runaway:


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## Craig_S (Jun 27, 2012)

Thanks for taking the time to post this! :thumbsup: Very intersting and informative read, lots of good tips, certainly going to make some changes to my routine!


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## Tonto_GTR (May 12, 2011)

I use Fairy Liquid and a mop. Does the job in no time! :runaway::chuckle:


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## DINGER B (Jul 8, 2012)

Good post mate... Lot's of good tips. :thumbsup:


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## R35 Boxer (Aug 12, 2012)

Hi Robbie

What polish would you say is best to use on kuro black? I'm currently using colour magic


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## Steveio (Aug 13, 2012)

Good read, would not have thought of most of that, so weather permitting will give it a try this weekend


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## darth storm (Nov 13, 2012)

*Sponge*

hey.

I've tried a Zymöl sponge and it's good, as good as some microfibre washing mitts. Zymöl is really a good company. 

cheers.


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## *MAGIC* (Oct 21, 2009)

They are very good.


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## familyhorse (May 10, 2007)

thanks for your advice on the 2 bucket method...never thought of it..! it is much safer!


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## F4S4N (Sep 22, 2013)

Great post!:thumbsup:


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## DINGER B (Jul 8, 2012)

Never thout about using 2 bucket's until reeding this post... Great bit of advice,I use 2 all the time now and don't have to panick about scratchers.


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## MaxGTRR35 (Dec 27, 2013)

Great article rob, I am off to halfords for the relevant items


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## Chronos (Dec 2, 2013)

nice info thanks, I need to sort the swirls on the Kuro black GTR


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## extremelimo (Jul 21, 2013)

*Hey Robbie*

Great post, we spoke at Ace cafe about best mopping polishes as using 2 stage Autoglym with white and black mop heads, ex painter so no prob using a mop, whats your suggestion. Its moved on a long way since 1200, G7, G3, T cut and polish lol:bowdown1:


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## pwpro (Jun 6, 2009)

Chronos said:


> nice info thanks, I need to sort the swirls on the Kuro black GTR


if you need help with that just give me a shout


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## pwpro (Jun 6, 2009)

extremelimo said:


> Great post, we spoke at Ace cafe about best mopping polishes as using 2 stage Autoglym with white and black mop heads, ex painter so no prob using a mop, whats your suggestion. Its moved on a long way since 1200, G7, G3, T cut and polish lol:bowdown1:


robbie no longer trades on here since he did tens of thousands of pounds worth of damage to multiple club members cars and then never paid a penny out to compensate them


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## TomS (Mar 21, 2012)

Chronos said:


> nice info thanks, I need to sort the swirls on the Kuro black GTR


Swirls are inevitable on Kuro black, as I've found out! I rinse, snow foam, rinse, two bucket wash with worlds softest mitt then rinse again. And I've still ended up with swirls on the paint over the last 6 months. It really is made of cheese.


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## extremelimo (Jul 21, 2013)

*Snow*

What is snow foam, what does it do, where do you buy it:nervous:


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## TomS (Mar 21, 2012)

Here's a good link about snow foam - Snow Foam Lance Guide - Detailing World


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## Griffiths Detailing (Jun 1, 2012)

extremelimo said:


> What is snow foam, what does it do, where do you buy it:nervous:


I'd recommend the autobrite direct hd lance - Autobrite Direct Snow Foam Lance, Connectors & Bottles - Exterior Cleaning

As for snow foam I'd go with meguiars hyper wash if the car is detailed and protected. This is a real safe but not very strong cleaner. 

It basically loosens / softens dirt so when you do come to touch paint with your mitt it will be less damaging 

Chris


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## Donbona (Apr 18, 2013)

pwpro said:


> robbie no longer trades on here since he did tens of thousands of pounds worth of damage to multiple club members cars and then never paid a penny out to compensate them



Really?? Not good at all.


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## Titanium GTR (Sep 27, 2009)

Great guide Robbie but never had to worry with a matte black wrap lol

Wash and drive


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## Griffiths Detailing (Jun 1, 2012)

Titanium GTR said:


> Great guide Robbie but never had to worry with a matte black wrap lol
> 
> Wash and drive


You will want some protection on that wrap, I'd recommend Swissvax opaque wax. 


Chris


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## Titanium GTR (Sep 27, 2009)

Griffiths Detailing said:


> You will want some protection on that wrap, I'd recommend Swissvax opaque wax.
> 
> 
> Chris


That's what it used to get from time to time at Robbie's but the car is sold now.
Looking for another soon though lol


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