# transmission question



## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

goodevening sirs,

The pressure of the TM oil? Please see photo below.

Just found out 20 min. ago. 

Will this be a problem?



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLSid9YYpcU < at 0.04 his pressure at idle is higher than mine?

Will this need a oil replacement?


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## Chris956 (Apr 11, 2010)

I would say no as you are stationary with the engine just idling. The engine oil pressure is equally low. Does it rise when the revs rise ?


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## Steveline (Oct 6, 2010)

wow.... do you have the flying car option?!?!?  CARWINGS?!!!!!


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Chris956 said:


> I would say no as you are stationary with the engine just idling. The engine oil pressure is equally low. Does it rise when the revs rise ?


thanks for your proper anwser chris,

yes it will rise when I push the throttle.

Could you post your photo of your TM oil pressure at idle?

On idle the video I have posted is far higher than mine on idle.

and this one was made for me just to compare his 2008 and mine same model.



Maybe the TM oil is on low level? 
Maybe a service with pentosin ffl4?

e.g.
Do I need to look for a TM oil pump?


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Steveline said:


> wow.... do you have the flying car option?!?!?  CARWINGS?!!!!!


Just SATNAV and some extras they call it carwings.:runaway::clap::blahblah:


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## bobel (Jul 26, 2010)

Just from the photos I see that the other car has a lower engine temperature, your seems to be about 13 deg higher so I would imagine you had been driving which in turn would mean that the tranny temp in yours was probably higher too? If so your higher tranny temp at idle (when warm) would mean a slightly lower pressue owing to the change in oil viscosity, the other car seems to be cooler eng temp so could assume that car was either ticking over or driven less and thus tranny would be colder, giving different viscosity (when cold) and increasing pressure. Just an observation though with assumptions, would have been good to have the tranny temperatures on yours to compare.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

bobel said:


> Just from the photos I see that the other car has a lower engine temperature, your seems to be about 13 deg higher so I would imagine you had been driving which in turn would mean that the tranny temp in yours was probably higher too? If so your higher tranny temp at idle (when warm) would mean a slightly lower pressue owing to the change in oil viscosity, the other car seems to be cooler eng temp so could assume that car was either ticking over or driven less and thus tranny would be colder, giving different viscosity (when cold) and increasing pressure. Just an observation though with assumptions, would have been good to have the tranny temperatures on yours to compare.


thanks for your kindness,

I have on Preset 1 the TM oil temp see below:



Probably refill for ffl4 I guess.

And car was idling around 26 minutes in 'N' from 9C water 8C oil and 8C TM. Not driven because today is wintersleep awake.:clap:


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> goodevening sirs,
> 
> The pressure of the TM oil? Please see photo below.
> 
> ...


I would expect at least 2 bars of pressure as a minimum, Nissan do not show an absolute pressure on this gauge as it could be misleading, does the car drive OK?


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> I would expect at least 2 bars of pressure as a minimum, Nissan do not show an absolute pressure on this gauge as it could be misleading, does the car drive OK?


thanks for your reply amb. of gtroc,

the car drives ok with aggressive and normal driving.

but my friends car was tested on mode 'P'.

And mine on mode 'N'.

Will this make some difference?

I never tried LC on the car because it has LC1. waiting for cobb to turn down to 3k or less.

but as soon as I drive the car the pressure goes up around 35%.

but at idle it's almost in the red zone. I hope it's not a gearbox failure because of a tm oil pump, short on oil or anything else specific. 

Benji_linney_gtc what do you think of this gearbox condition?


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> thanks for your reply amb. of gtroc,
> 
> the car drives ok with aggressive and normal driving.
> 
> ...



enshiu,

This issue of the lower than normal oil pressure could be down to a number of things, I have listed the most likely candidates below:

1) Partially blocked oil filter(s)
2) Incorrect oil level
3) Badly degraded oil
4) Leaking oil pump (there is a plate that seals the pump that the gasket can blown out of where the sealing face is very thin)
5) Faulty oil pressure transducer (the primary line sensor reads pressure after the pump)
6) Other sundry leaks like a blown O ring

I would start with dropping the sump and removing the primary and secondary oil filters and inspect for debris, check for gunk in the sump and magnets and if all appears well I would refill with new oil and retest.

As the pressure comes up after you increase the engine speed and the gearbox shifts normally a leak and or blockage seem the most likely.

If it was still low afterwards I would get it hooked up to a Consult III and have the line pressures checked etc.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Thanks again for your reply,

How to replace TM oil? because this is first time for me.

What oil? FFL-4?

Probably degraded oil because this is the first time I am going to change it.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

enshiu said:


> Thanks again for your reply,
> 
> How to replace TM oil? because this is first time for me.
> 
> ...


http://www.speedforsale.com/staff/files/TransmissionFluidGTR.pdf


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> http://www.speedforsale.com/staff/files/TransmissionFluidGTR.pdf


I am running late tonight enshiu, I will post the info up for you tomorrow, I would aslo suggest as a minimum that you remove the sump to inspect/clean the magnets and filter(s).

Edit: Sorry, I have just read your link and that information is fine  Just do it after dropping the sump etc, you only need to remove the large (under the Gearbox) underfloor tray and not the smaller side one BTW.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> I am running late tonight enshiu, I will post the info up for you tomorrow, I would aslo suggest as a minimum that you remove the sump to inspect/clean the magnets and filter(s).
> 
> Edit: Sorry, I have just read your link and that information is fine  Just do it after dropping the sump etc, you only need to remove the large (under the Gearbox) underfloor tray and not the smaller side one BTW.


Thank you for your reply, 

What do I have to do exactly at 7? change gear? or is there a better guide than this one?


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> Thank you for your reply,
> 
> What do I have to do exactly at 7? change gear? or is there a better guide than this one?


Not sure what you mean "at 7" as that number = "7. Install the filler plug and drain plug."

This guide is plenty good enough, when you say change gear what you need to do it have your foot on the brake at all times with the engine running and select first gear (manual mode) for 5 seconds (I do 10 seconds) and then select via the paddles 2nd gear again for 5 seconds, both of these gears can be selected without having to move the vehicle.

Let me know if you need more info.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> Not sure what you mean "at 7" as that number = "7. Install the filler plug and drain plug."
> 
> This guide is plenty good enough, when you say change gear what you need to do it have your foot on the brake at all times with the engine running and select first gear (manual mode) for 5 seconds (I do 10 seconds) and then select via the paddles 2nd gear again for 5 seconds, both of these gears can be selected without having to move the vehicle.
> 
> Let me know if you need more info.


thanks again for your reply,

so when I am refilling or draining still engine on?

This guide is little confusing.


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## countvonc (Feb 11, 2009)

Looked at mine this morning on the way to work and cold or warm is idles between bar 4 and 5.

Obviously without a scale on the display it is a bit difficult to say what the pressure is ! Mine is an MY09 Non Nav BTW.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

countvonc said:


> Looked at mine this morning on the way to work and cold or warm is idles between bar 4 and 5.
> 
> Obviously without a scale on the display it is a bit difficult to say what the pressure is ! Mine is an MY09 Non Nav BTW.


Thank you for your helpful reply,

Please post photo here as I will compare it with mine.


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> thanks again for your reply,
> 
> so when I am refilling or draining still engine on?
> 
> This guide is little confusing.


No, the draining and refill procedure required that the engine is NOT running. I would recommend that you warm the oil first to around 60 degrees to aid a rapid drain.

Then remove the sump to clean out the crud and inspect the filter(s), when removing the sump please note there is still 1 to 1.5 Lt of oil left in and there is more oil to come out once you remove the primary filter.

Refit the sump if all is well (torque bolts to 8.5Nm) and fill with your oil till is comes out of the check tube. Refit the drain and fill bungs and run the engine and prime the clutches as per the instruction sheet, then follow on with the rest of the procedure from point 10.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

I want to remove the oil sump aswell to clean the magnets but, where can I buy a sump gasket, TM oil filter and what tools exactly?

Replacing the following parts:
***8226; New OEM Nissan transmission drain plug
***8226; New OEM Nissan transmission fill plug gasket
***8226; quality aftermarket fluid (using FFL-4)(9L)

Tools needed:
***8226; 10mm socket
***8226; 12mm socket
***8226; Rachet
***8226; 5mm allen socket
***8226; 10mm allen socket
***8226; 3***8221; socket extension

Do I also need a oil pump to fill the gearbox?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SELF-PRIMING-...sure_Cycling_BikePumps_SR&hash=item230ea1a0e3


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> I want to remove the oil sump aswell to clean the magnets but, where can I buy a sump gasket, TM oil filter and what tools exactly?
> 
> Replacing the following parts:
> ***8226; New OEM Nissan transmission drain plug
> ...


You should get away without having to change the gasket, I did buy one the first time I did this job but found out later they can be reused a number of times with issue as they are a metal gasket with a special coasting.

You can get the gasket and sealing washer from any Nissan dealer (to order) if you really want them or from Speed for Sale in the US which works out cheaper, not sure if the OEM filter(s) are sold separately but there are aftermarket ones at Speed for Sale as well.

I normally reverse flush my primary filter and have not removed the secondary one as yet. The job may seem a little daunting but it is more time consuming than difficult, but the first time you do it can be a little scary I guess 

BTW, you should really join the GTROC as a full member as I normally reserve the good technical stuff for them only!


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> You should get away without having to change the gasket, I did buy one the first time I did this job but found out later they can be reused a number of times with issue as they are a metal gasket with a special coasting.
> 
> You can get the gasket and sealing washer from any Nissan dealer (to order) if you really want them or from Speed for Sale in the US which works out cheaper, not sure if the OEM filter(s) are sold separately but there are aftermarket ones at Speed for Sale as well.
> 
> ...


I will but I have an import is that a problem with with with VIN as I have CBA-R35xxxx.

Can I wash the filter with petrol or just with ethanol or something else.


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> I will but I have an import is that a problem with with with VIN as I have CBA-R35xxxx.
> 
> Can I wash the filter with petrol or just with ethanol or something else.


I can't see that being an issue with the VIN number, you should be able to join the GTROC just fine.

I would reverse wash it with brake cleaner.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> I can't see that being an issue with the VIN number, you should be able to join the GTROC just fine.
> 
> I would reverse wash it with brake cleaner.


Thanks for your reply, 

Do I also need a oil pump to fill the gearbox?

I will refill tonight or friday with ffl-4.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> You should get away without having to change the gasket, I did buy one the first time I did this job but found out later they can be reused a number of times with issue as they are a metal gasket with a special coasting.
> 
> You can get the gasket and sealing washer from any Nissan dealer (to order) if you really want them or from Speed for Sale in the US which works out cheaper, not sure if the OEM filter(s) are sold separately but there are aftermarket ones at Speed for Sale as well.
> 
> ...


Paying soon for member :clap:


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> Thanks for your reply,
> 
> Do I also need a oil pump to fill the gearbox?
> 
> I will refill tonight or friday with ffl-4.


I use the OilSafe ones that Opie oil sells, not the cheapest option but great quality!

You will most defiantly need a pump of some kind and the OilSafe one does a great job.


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> Paying soon for member :clap:


Excellent 

Why not do it now while the "iron is hot" so to speak?


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Yes I will buy asap. but where to buy a oil pump?

btw I will hook my COBB up on the car as it has arrived today.


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> Yes I will buy asap. but where to buy a oil pump?
> 
> btw I will hook my COBB up on the car as it has arrived today.


I would hold off purchasing an oil pump until you know it is that for sure, I believe Dodson offer a blueprinted pump for around $750, the Cobb will not help you in the least with this matter apart from reading any errors codes and as you warning lap is not on I suspect there will be none to find.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> I would hold off purchasing an oil pump until you know it is that for sure, I believe Dodson offer a blueprinted pump for around $750, the Cobb will not help you in the least with this matter apart from reading any errors codes and as you warning lap is not on I suspect there will be none to find.


Are there any cheaper oil pumps around?

I think the mechanical oil pump for engine oil (new) should also do the job.


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## Chris956 (Apr 11, 2010)

Why dont you get a professional to look at it first and test it if possible.


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> Are there any cheaper oil pumps around?
> 
> I think the mechanical oil pump for engine oil (new) should also do the job.


I presume you are referring to the pump to fill the gearbox with now and not the internal GR6 oil pump so yes there are cheaper options and I have used some of them and found that in the long term they are not worth the effort.

There is a saying that if you buy sh1t you end up buying it twice!

Bite the bullet and get the right tool for the job from the start, it is too late when you find your cheepo pump has failed and you are trying to get your car back on the rod with oil dripping down your sleeve!


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Chris: Already did and said replace oil and clean magnets.

arcam
16l Fasspumpe Handpumpe Kurbelpumpe Umfüllpumpe *NEU* bei eBay.de: Pumpen (endet 08.04.11 14:06:31 MESZ)

or 
http://cgi.ebay.de/Ol-Heizol-Diesel...e-/260706549859?pt=Pumpen&hash=item3cb3524063

this one can lift liquid up to 5 meters.

I would like to have a mechnical pump rather than electric as one already failed and cost me over 100 quid.


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> Chris: Already did and said replace oil and clean magnets.
> 
> arcam
> 16l Fasspumpe Handpumpe Kurbelpumpe Umfüllpumpe *NEU* bei eBay.de: Pumpen (endet 08.04.11 14:06:31 MESZ)
> ...


Stop dicking around already! 

Neither of those pumps are suitable, I had an electric one as well and was a right pain, the mechanical SafeOil one is excellent and is designed for this job, check out Opie Oil's site Oil Safe Fluid Defense Systems


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> Stop dicking around already!
> 
> Neither of those pumps are suitable, I had an electric one as well and was a right pain, the mechanical SafeOil one is excellent and is designed for this job, check out Opie Oil's site Oil Safe Fluid Defense Systems


I know it was just a try :runaway:



> Opie Oils - Oil Safe Pump (standard)


so this one is ok I guess?


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> I know it was just a try :runaway:
> 
> so this one is ok I guess?


LOL! That one is fine, you will also need to get one of these:

Drums from Oil Safe I have a few of them for different oils but for the transmission I think the 5lt one if the best compromise of size vs capacity.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

over two weeks the bridge will be bolted then I can work on my car.

at 0.41 I got a transmission fault on my instrument panel.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> LOL! That one is fine, you will also need to get one of these:
> 
> Drums from Oil Safe I have a few of them for different oils but for the transmission I think the 5lt one if the best compromise of size vs capacity.


Can I do this without the drum?


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> Can I do this without the drum?


Possibly, if you get the 20lt FFL4 drum I think the pump alone will work.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> Possibly, if you get the 20lt FFL4 drum I think the pump alone will work.


Saved me money lol

My 2nd house is in the Netherlands(parked) I will buy from Germany or UK if possible.

20L FFL-4 / Getriebeöl für BMW 83222148578 / 15,00?/L bei eBay.de: Autopflege Wartung (endet 20.04.11 19:29:21 MESZ)

This is from Germany.


> This high quality down-stroke discharge pump is a most reliable and efficient manual transfer pump and delivers 1 litre for approximately 12-14 strokes.


10 L is about 120 strokes?!


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

leaking rear differential?



rest of the underside.



BURNT TM oil.








TM sump.







[/URL]

TM fill port.


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

It looks like a drive shaft seal have blown and not a leaking diff as such .. although the oil does come from there. Pretty corroded underneath but that is again to be expected on a car of your age, I think Nissan could have used better quality paints of those exposed surfaces along with better plated bolts!

Make sure you replace this Diff drain and fill bung seals as that front one looked list it was weeping.

It will be interesting to see the inside shots of your TM sump and magnets.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> It looks like a drive shaft seal have blown and not a leaking diff as such .. although the oil does come from there. Pretty corroded underneath but that is again to be expected on a car of your age, I think Nissan could have used better quality paints of those exposed surfaces along with better plated bolts!
> 
> Make sure you replace this Diff drain and fill bung seals as that front one looked list it was weeping.
> 
> It will be interesting to see the inside shots of your TM sump and magnets.


how to repair this blown seal?

Or let it be as it is.

The last owner never washes his car as he thinks that this aluminum body is anti rust! Negligence of the last owner.

I am trying to remove rust and respray it with tar.

Will be replacing oil around 15/5.

front differential drain bolt is only front rust bolt washer itself is perfect.

removing rust.....


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> how to repair this blown seal?
> 
> Or let it be as it is.
> 
> ...


I have not replaced a blown oil seal in the diff yet, but I would start by disconnecting the inner drive shaft coupling and then the removing the output flange, this should give you access to remove the seal and fit a new one making sure you clean up the running face on the output shaft.

Not sure that Tar would be the correct material to us to cover up the rust! Perhaps something like Hammerrite would be more suitable.

So the front diff drain bung was sprayed with WD40 or similar then, that is why it looks like it is leaking, I would still replace the drain bunk seal.

Looks like you have not drained the transmission yet or removed the sump, are you stil doing that?


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> I have not replaced a blown oil seal in the diff yet, but I would start by disconnecting the inner drive shaft coupling and then the removing the output flange, this should give you access to remove the seal and fit a new one making sure you clean up the running face on the output shaft.
> 
> Not sure that Tar would be the correct material to us to cover up the rust! Perhaps something like Hammerrite would be more suitable.
> 
> ...


If not really leaky I keep it this way.

Yes that was to get off the front drain bolt.WD40 was used or wd1299.

It does not leak after running 90 mins tests.

derusting.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

also my engine pressure has less than 1.9 bar.

around 1.6 bar

replace engine oil or any defects?

ffl-4 next change in 10k?


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> also my engine pressure has less than 1.9 bar.
> 
> around 1.6 bar
> 
> ...


Well you should be replacing the engine oil and filter, has this car seen any maintenance? If you don't exceed 115c on the tranny then the FFL4 should last longer, but as it is so cheap it would not do any harm in replacing it early.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> Well you should be replacing the engine oil and filter, has this car seen any maintenance? If you don't exceed 115c on the tranny then the FFL4 should last longer, but as it is so cheap it would not do any harm in replacing it early.


Tm never went above 90C. Without the shield never over 75C.

How long are the ffl-4 interval at normal use?

Only one time maintenance on 27/11/2009 (G2).

paid 3730.98 at that time.

no TM oil change

Engine oil changed at 10363.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

> (Bullo @ Sep 28 2008, 11:56 PM) *
> Either we is US got better built cars (which would be a joke to assume) or we are just better drivers. I have not heard of a single person around here in the midwest/northeast who has had transmission problems.......
> 
> 
> ...


...

So I also have the tm oil pump failure?!


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> Tm never went above 90C. Without the shield never over 75C.
> 
> How long are the ffl-4 interval at normal use?
> 
> ...


So you have run the car with no under floor tray and got a much lower TM running temp, interesting, what made you do that?

There is NO interval/change schedule for the FFL4 as it is not officially supported, Iain Litchfield may chime in here and give you a better idea. But I don't see why you can't use the 18000 interval that the OEM oil is replaced at so long as it has not been overheated.


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> ...
> 
> So I also have the tm oil pump failure?!


Who knows, I have no experience of a TM Oil Pump failure, I would still drop the sump and clean out the filter(s) and refill with FFL4 and see what happens.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> So you have run the car with no under floor tray and got a much lower TM running temp, interesting, what made you do that?
> 
> There is NO interval/change schedule for the FFL4 as it is not officially supported, Iain Litchfield may chime in here and give you a better idea. But I don't see why you can't use the 18000 interval that the OEM oil is replaced at so long as it has not been overheated.


tried out last month to see some difference in temps.



Arcam said:


> Who knows, I have no experience of a TM Oil Pump failure, I would still drop the sump and clean out the filter(s) and refill with FFL4 and see what happens.


Also clean solenoids?

Got my opie oil pump at last.


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> tried out last month to see some difference in temps.


Ahh, I see, quick a difference in temp with it off.




enshiu said:


> Also clean solenoids?
> 
> Got my opie oil pump at last.


If you feel like dropping the valve body out then yes, but I don't know how comfortable you would be doing that.

Good that you have the pump at least to refill the TM.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> Ahh, I see, quick a difference in temp with it off.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


depends on how long + what tools.

I will be glad to clean out the solenoids.

what precaution do I need when dropping/cleaning the valve body?


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> what precaution do I need when dropping/cleaning the valve body?


Make sure you have no bits left over when you are finished 

I have not removed one myself so watch out for any bits dropping out like O rings etc.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> Make sure you have no bits left over when you are finished
> 
> I have not removed one myself so watch out for any bits dropping out like O rings etc.



ok will clean it.

any other precautions like timing valve body?


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> ok will clean it.
> 
> any other precautions like timing valve body?


Not that I am aware of, there is no timing involved.


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## bobel (Jul 26, 2010)

enshiu said:


> ok will clean it.
> 
> any other precautions like timing valve body?


Please throw up some photos and maybe a brief description of how you did this enshiu, it's great to see you taking on doing your own work, hope to do similar myself and would be great to have a reference, the gearbox is something I'm particularly interested in.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

bobel said:


> Please throw up some photos and maybe a brief description of how you did this enshiu, it's great to see you taking on doing your own work, hope to do similar myself and would be great to have a reference, the gearbox is something I'm particularly interested in.


any reflush?


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Just got my TM sump + oil dropped.

Seems the car gave me chills when the TM lamp went on.

Only in 2nd gear and A mode

TM:
P0797
P0216

Hard resetted twice and gone.

And now A1-A2 and 1M and 2M possible again.

Probably forgot to put car in N as I set to 1M for some long time (burned/jammed clutch).

Some photos:

Before drainage:


Draining:



Draining seen from distance::runaway:



Draining seen from underside car::clap:



TM sump removed (even solenoids on the filter):



More closely (look on the filter which I removed one mark of solenoids): 



Magnets before cleaning:



Dirty magnets :runaway:



For your comparison clean magnet v.s. dirty magnet:



Closeup:



Magnets,sump and gasket cleaned:

I used hand wash antiseptic (contains Isopropyl,Butanediol) to clean the sump,magnets and gasket.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Just got my TM sump + oil dropped.

Seems the car gave me chills when the TM lamp went on.

Only in 2nd gear and A mode

TM:
P0797
P0214 or P0216 (can't remember)

Hard reset it twice and gone.

And now A1-A2 and 1M and 2M possible again.

Probably forgot to put car in N as I set to 1M for some long time (burned/jammed clutch).

And I was testing the LC to confirm for sure which one I had and seems to be the LC2.

Some photos:

Before drainage:


Draining:



Draining seen from distance::runaway:



Draining seen from underside car::clap:



TM sump removed (even solenoids on the filter):



More closely (look on the filter which I removed one mark of solenoids): 



Magnets before cleaning:



Dirty magnets :runaway:



For your comparison clean magnet v.s. dirty magnet:



Closeup:



Magnets,sump and gasket cleaned:

I used hand wash antiseptic (contains Isopropyl,Butanediol) to clean the sump,magnets and gasket.



TM oil will be arriving next week. 20L FFL-4.

I did bend the plug gasketring a little but, will be that a problem?

By removing the sump my floor was under the TM oil (eek!).

Cleaning up today as my repair was in the night and it is now 5.00am I need to go to bed.

Tomorrow cleaning up floor and removing filter and valve body.


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## bobel (Jul 26, 2010)

Goos job mate thanks for the photos, keep them coming interested to see the valve body and filter removal, looks like the cleaning of the magnets is a worthy job, they looked like they had a nice coating of particles.


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

When you say "I did bend the plug gasketring a little but, will be that a problem?" is that the sump gasket for drain plug? If it is the gasket and it have not kinked it you should be OK, I would replace the drain bung as it is only 80p from a dealer and it is the only way you can get the correct washer.

The oil looked pretty sha**ed, the coating on the magnets looks pretty normal considering you have not changed the oil or dropped the sump before.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> When you say "I did bend the plug gasketring a little but, will be that a problem?" is that the sump gasket for drain plug? If it is the gasket and it have not kinked it you should be OK, I would replace the drain bung as it is only 80p from a dealer and it is the only way you can get the correct washer.
> 
> The oil looked pretty sha**ed, the coating on the magnets looks pretty normal considering you have not changed the oil or dropped the sump before.


The ring is little bend as I forgot there was a torx inside the drain tube.

I have bend back and closes perfectly. I can't take the ring off.



Removed rear diff and removing front diff oil now. Any instructions?


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> The ring is little bend as I forgot there was a torx inside the drain tube.
> 
> I have bend back and closes perfectly. I can't take the ring off.
> 
> ...


You need to replace that check bung, don't be tempted to reuse it as it costs so little, I bought one last week for 80p retail from a Nissan dealer, the "ring"" only comes with the new bung and can't be purchased seperatly.

Diff oils are straight forward, the front fill port it a little tricky to get to, make sure you get eh Allen socket in squarely or you may slip the tool out and round the inside of the bung.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

I have plenty of those rings but I can't get it off. Shall I break the ring then?


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> I have plenty of those rings but I can't get it off. Shall I break the ring then?


No, buy a NEW bung!!! --- 80p from a dealer!!!


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> No, buy a NEW bung!!! --- 80p from a dealer!!!


complete washer?


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> complete washer?


It comes as one unit, the bung and washer together, Nissan part number: N31377JF00E and it costs 85p inc VAT.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> It comes as one unit, the bung and washer together, Nissan part number: N31377JF00E and it costs 85p inc VAT.


the dealer is 2 hours from here. bung is ok replacing washer.


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> the dealer is 2 hours from here. bung is ok replacing washer.


Telephone order and post out to you???


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## mickv (May 27, 2009)

LOL! This link may come in handy:

It’s the Little Things | Andrex Toilet Tissue Rolls


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> Telephone order and post out to you???


Never mind found exactly same ring and closed it.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

My HEX bolt on valve body failed. Do I need to buy another one? One of the six hexes broke. can be put back but not torque more than 1/16.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

fixed with Allen bolt 6.0x45 exactly same fitting. 8.8 spec.

17p from b&Q.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

My magnets are not like this at least:

http://www.r35club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2729&d=1269465985


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Valve body check+cleanup (done same day as tm oil draining):


























First and second gear look like this:


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

Looks pretty clean apart from the burnt TM oil.

Are you dropping out the secondary filter as well?


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> Looks pretty clean apart from the burnt TM oil.
> 
> Are you dropping out the secondary filter as well?


sorry don't have the 34mm wrench.

is the 2nd filter also dirty?


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> sorry don't have the 34mm wrench.
> 
> is the 2nd filter also dirty?


You have gone that far already so it would be a no brainer to check that other filter as well, the 34mm socket will only cost around 15 Euros, make sure those 3 "O" rings don't drop when you refit the valve body. You pictures are too clear but the solenoids look pretty clean, did you find any metal stuck to them?


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> You have gone that far already so it would be a no brainer to check that other filter as well, the 34mm socket will only cost around 15 Euros, make sure those 3 "O" rings don't drop when you refit the valve body. You pictures are too clear but the solenoids look pretty clean, did you find any metal stuck to them?


Found one piece of the 'bits' stuff.

and I don't need to drop valve body to access the second filter. only the first filter has to come off. Valve body is back already + sump. waiting on oil to refill.

Castrol 75w140 and 0w40 mobil1 has arrived. filling these first up.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> You have gone that far already so it would be a no brainer to check that other filter as well, the 34mm socket will only cost around 15 Euros, make sure those 3 "O" rings don't drop when you refit the valve body. You pictures are too clear but the solenoids look pretty clean, did you find any metal stuck to them?


btw. I forgot to say.
I used one roll of toilet paper for cleaning the solenoids.

I couldn't make photos because my hands was in the oil.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

*FFL-4*

Just received my FFL-4 from Germany.

The tub look like this:



Waiting on 34 mm socket to clean last filter and tm oil refill after that.


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu, how can you say that the car feels more responsive with you new 10/60 engine oil when the car is not on the road yet??? Have you been driving it in your garage without any gearbox oil in???


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> enshiu, how can you say that the car feels more responsive with you new 10/60 engine oil when the car is not on the road yet??? Have you been driving it in your garage without any gearbox oil in???


It was before I changed my engine/tm/diff oil I used 10w60 for one week to flush the black stuff out of the engine.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Removed the last filter with 36mm socket and NOT 34mm.

I ordered 34mm,36mm and 1 1/4''.

Washing it with gentle soap and drying it for tonight.

Tomorrow evening I will reseat the filters and fill the TM with FFL-4. See what happens next.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Just filled up my transmission and gives no shift at ALL.

only in P-R-N-A2 is the only shifts I can do.

Sometimes P-R-N-A1

no clutch engagement 

Just a TM lamp flashing.

at 1750 rpm the gearbox makes ZZZZZzzzzZZZZ noise.

Valve body replacement?

Last time the TM ECU was not reacting resetted 3 times and shifted normal.

Waiting on Benny to upgrade my NIS006.

TM max pressure at idle is 2 bars but reving it's going to the hi area.
Need to rebuild tm oil pump

engine oil pressure still same at 1.75 bar (even filled till full on dipstick).
Need new engine oil pump?


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> Just filled up my transmission and gives no shift at ALL.
> 
> only in P-R-N-A2 is the only shifts I can do.
> 
> ...


The TM pressure looks about correct, the gauge measures the pressure directly after the oil pump so I would be surprised if that is faulty at this stage without getting a full set of pressure readings from a Consult III.

How did you clean out the valve body? I suspect the issue is with a seal that has slipped out during the refitting of the secondary oil filter housing, an issue with the secondary oil filter (possibly looking at the way it was cleaned) or the "O" rings that seal the face of the valve body to the transmission case, how much oil did you fill the transmission with and did you follow the correct priming sequence for the 2 clutches?

The engine oil pressure is very low, you said before you were testing with the 10/60 oil and it was really good, what has changed since then? It could be that the pressure transducer for the oil sensor is duff, using a mechanical gauge screwed into the oil pressure sensor port would give you a better idea if the problem is with the transducer or something more serious.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> The TM pressure looks about correct, the gauge measures the pressure directly after the oil pump so I would be surprised if that is faulty at this stage without getting a full set of pressure readings from a Consult III.
> 
> How did you clean out the valve body? I suspect the issue is with a seal that has slipped out during the refitting of the secondary oil filter housing, an issue with the secondary oil filter (possibly looking at the way it was cleaned) or the "O" rings that seal the face of the valve body to the transmission case, how much oil did you fill the transmission with and did you follow the correct priming sequence for the 2 clutches?
> 
> The engine oil pressure is very low, you said before you were testing with the 10/60 oil and it was really good, what has changed since then? It could be that the pressure transducer for the oil sensor is duff, using a mechanical gauge screwed into the oil pressure sensor port would give you a better idea if the problem is with the transducer or something more serious.


secondary oil filter seal is intact and refitted as it was 
all rings are putted back as it was (incl.valve body ring).

I found one of the ''teeth'' from the valve body during cleaning.

I found this thread and I have to relearn clutches if I remove the valve body.

http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=36686&st=40


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

You must relearn Valve body once removed. 

TM in limp mode - NAGTROC - The Nissan GT-R Owners Club

Valve body removed again:



Aligning valve body





The production year must face left as one valve has no notch.

L1 = notched production year face left
L2 = no notch production year face left

R1 = notched production year face right
R2 = ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^.

I have used paper clips to set the valve bodies.










Back/underside valve body.
You have to put your paper clips/copper/iron wires through here to align all valve bodies.










!!Don't forget to remove these wires once finished installing the valve body!!


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Found a big problem when reinstalling the valve body.

The notches should align facing the ground and not up and the yellowish dot valve is aligned.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Got all codes off AP and will be posting on reinstalling valve body.

Reset ECU and TM lamp gone!

My car is running again as it was.

Special thanks for Arcam,chris956,anilj, etc. for supporting me for the last 3 months!.

Arcam Where is the engine oil pressure sensor?


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

update:

I did not clean the valve body from inside but, cleaned all solenoids. Could it be that a tunnel in the Valve body is blocked? Anyway When I have time I will change the TPU from the valve body.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

[/QUOTE]

T80 GTR has sent me this photo. Compared to my first photo this one is much better than mine. I guess the sensor drained out of spec.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Finally found it. The tm pressure sensor failed (sensor broken). wrong specs when testing.


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