# Replacing engine oil



## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Goodmorning gents,

What engine oil should I replace in my VR38DETT and how many litres?

Mobil1 - 0w40 (OEM)?

Willall 10w60?
R35 GTR Track Build - NAGTROC - The Nissan GT-R Owners Club

or any other recommendation?

My car is for track and road use.


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> Goodmorning gents,
> 
> What engine oil should I replace in my VR38DETT and how many litres?
> 
> ...


I use Motul 5w50 Sport, this is an ester based oil and I have no doubt that Opie Oils may chime in on this one. I use OEM during Winter time as I do not track my car then.

If you do not get your engine oil really hot and are prepared to change it frequently after track days then the OEM oil is OK, you have to remember how much oil dilution takes place when on track due to excess fuelling.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> I use Motul 5w50 Sport, this is an ester based oil and I have no doubt that Opie Oils may chime in on this one. I use OEM during Winter time as I do not track my car then.
> 
> If you do not get your engine oil really hot and are prepared to change it frequently after track days then the OEM oil is OK, you have to remember how much oil dilution takes place when on track due to excess fuelling.


I am changing each 5000km/3000 miles. 
Will that be enough on OEM oil? 
At what temprature is the engine on track days? 
Mine goes around 100 C.


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> I am changing each 5000km/3000 miles.
> Will that be enough on OEM oil?
> At what temprature is the engine on track days?
> Mine goes around 100 C.


You will be fine with OEM oil based on that change regime and oil temp, I used to get my old R35 into the 105 to 110 zone, I suspect my new 2011 model will run even hotter.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> You will be fine with OEM oil based on that change regime and oil temp, I used to get my old R35 into the 105 to 110 zone, I suspect my new 2011 model will run even hotter.


I will change every 5000km/3000miles all the oils including diff and tm.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Arcam said:


> You will be fine with OEM oil based on that change regime and oil temp, I used to get my old R35 into the 105 to 110 zone, I suspect my new 2011 model will run even hotter.


I think I need a mishimoto thermostat as mine OEm does 90 to 95 C the whole day sometimes 100 C

Will this help? New GTR Mishimoto Racing Thermostat R35 09+ | eBay


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> I will change every 5000km/3000miles all the oils including diff and tm.


If you are tracking a lot then this would be good, I change my diff oils evey 2 track days regardless, the engine oil as well. If you are going to run the FFL4 then change it at the same time as it is so inexpensive, unless you are going to fit a transmission cooler.


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> I think I need a mishimoto thermostat as mine OEm does 90 to 95 C the whole day sometimes 100 C
> 
> Will this help? New GTR Mishimoto Racing Thermostat R35 09+ | eBay


Mine ran up to 105c which I don't see as an issue with a fully sealed and pressurised system, 85 to 90 would be better and this stat my well help. On tuned builds it will help a bit more but you are also into getting an uprated radiator as well.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

I will buy a GTC tune at max 650 hp. I will receive a bridge this saturday so I can work on my car.


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

Speaking personally, I would not like to see more then 600 carefully tuned HP with stock internals, I am sure plenty will disagree but with track use the loads on the bottom end are magnified considerable considering the duration of the power delivery etc.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

me2 but CPR did 700hp with only injectors,intake, and turbos and No engine upgrade?

source CPR - CARPLANET RACING.COM

COBB TUNING 'ACCESS-PORT' ECU Reflashing Controller (with CPR Custom Stage 6 Tune Flash Map installed)

CPR 700HP HYBRID TURBOCHARGERS

CPR HIGHFLOW RACING FUEL PUMPS

RC ENGINEERING UPRATED FUEL INJECTORS 

FORGE MOTORSPORT ALLOY ACTUATORS (with CPR Specification Spring)

CPR TURBINE OUTLET ELBOW PIPES

CPR FRONT Y-PIPE DE-CAT

CPR 3.5" FULL RACE CAT-BACK TWIN EXHAUST SYSTEM

CPR INDUCTION KIT & LARGER AIR FLOW METER HOUSINGS 
BEFORE & AFTER POWER RUNS

Which is more safe GTC 650R or this one?


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> me2 but CPR did 700hp with only injectors,intake, and turbos and No engine upgrade?
> 
> source CPR - CARPLANET RACING.COM
> 
> ...


I could not really say as I have not run either, I really like the CPR exhaust system but they "detune" that kit so as not to break the con rods etc, which IMHO is a waste. I would first forge the bottom end and whilst out would go with the turbo and intake upgrade along with injectors and leave it at that for track use.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Benji_linney_GTC provided me this package:

accessport (already have)
titan
y-pipe
downpipes (catted)
injectors
intake
circa 620hp


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Where Can I buy Consult III? (ebay?) I want reprogrammed LC2 but, COBB does not have TCM update for JC04FA.


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## Jm-Imports (Feb 12, 2007)

pop over my shop sometime..

we use motul 15 50 300v as recommended by JUN


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Jm-Imports said:


> pop over my shop sometime..
> 
> we use motul 15 50 300v as recommended by JUN


At any time during business hours?

I thought 15w50 is for motorcycles?


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## Jm-Imports (Feb 12, 2007)

enshiu said:


> At any time during business hours?
> 
> I thought 15w50 is for motorcycles?


yep any time except mondays mate..


you can get motul for car racing also


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Jm-Imports said:


> yep any time except mondays mate..
> 
> 
> you can get motul for car racing also


Really far by car like 5 hours from Cardiff.


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## Jm-Imports (Feb 12, 2007)

enshiu said:


> Really far by car like 5 hours from Cardiff.


i thought you were local lol


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

Jm-Imports said:


> i thought you were local lol


lol unfortunately not, 

When I am in the neighbourhood of Newcastle on Tyne I will visit your tuning shop.


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## sumo69 (Mar 31, 2008)

I thought 5w50 was the recommended oil?

Think thats what Litchfield use!!

D


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

sumo69 said:


> I thought 5w50 was the recommended oil?
> 
> Think thats what Litchfield use!!
> 
> D


Idk I think they use OEM oil :runaway:


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## christer (Jul 16, 2010)

Litchfields use both OEM and Motul - they give you the choice.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

christer said:


> Litchfields use both OEM and Motul - they give you the choice.


+10 Nice info thanks.

What is better than? 

I change every 3115 miles/5k km


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## sumo69 (Mar 31, 2008)

Depends on how you use the car and whether you are being anal about the warranty terms (for those that have a UK car).

Motul is apparently a better product for those with a heavy right foot or tuned cars...and cheaper so that makes it a no brainer imho.

D


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## christer (Jul 16, 2010)

enshiu said:


> +10 Nice info thanks.
> 
> What is better than?
> 
> I change every 3115 miles/5k km



The Motul is the better oil according to most sources, so even though my GTR is probably one of the most gently driven I still use Motul. I also use FFL4 transmission fluid even though my highest tranny temp has been around 94deg C - and that was on a German autobahn at high speed cruise (like 240kph) - not track work. I just want to give the car best fluids I can so that I or th enext owners has the best longevity possible. A no brainer especially because Motul and FFl4 are either cheaper or much cheaper than the stock items....respectively


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

difficult to choose lol!

OEM
15w50
10w60

which one?

Or just 20w50 for max protection??


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> difficult to choose lol!
> 
> OEM
> 15w50
> ...


Most defiantly NOT 20w50, I would either run OEM or 5w50, 15w50 is too heavy at low temps IMHO and 10w60 is only suitable for sustained track use in hot climates, not road use.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

I will keep at OEM oil then. (dual use, track and road).

Please describe why not 20w50? 

Too heavy/thick or only for old engines?

getting FFL-4 for gearbox and castrol 75w140 for the diffs.


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## Arcam (Jun 30, 2009)

enshiu said:


> I will keep at OEM oil then. (dual use, track and road).
> 
> Please describe why not 20w50?
> 
> ...


Most if not all 20w50 engine oils are "old tech" and were designed for cars over 30 years ago, the cold start performance of this oil is very poor compared to a modern 0 or 5 weight oil, fuel economy will suffer as will warm up times not to mention the extra wear that will take place during that period.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

I got my bridge so will be making pictures of when replacing fluids.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

To continue my maintenance journey
I have chosen for the following two types of oil for trying out the experience.


1. 10w60 Shell Helix Ultra Racing 20L tub 100 pounds/tub SM/CF
2. OEM 0w40 new life 5.20/L (min. 15L purchase at good wholesaler) SM/CF.

surprisingly 10w60 is far better with degradation and temps. not over 93C.
and cold starts are easily done with the new oil. 

The local tuning shop where I have garaged my car has a lot of experiences with VR engines and recommended me use 10w60 as these are for the tuned engines.
OEM is also no problem. I have contact with an authorized dealer selling the engine oil so no fakes and knows each other for a long time.


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