# My Nur with TE37's



## Tim (Jan 6, 2003)

Couldn't get the pics up when posting in IMG???????????
Link to the album
Album


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## paul (Oct 13, 2002)

broken link


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## Tim (Jan 6, 2003)

*Link*

Does that work now?


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## DCD (Jun 28, 2001)

No


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## Tim (Jan 6, 2003)

Sorry, album was private, not public.
Should work now.


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## SkylineUSA (Jun 29, 2001)

Nice, very nice


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## polarbearit (Dec 1, 2001)

Looks great, love the plate!?


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## paul (Oct 13, 2002)

very nice. that car was at elvington yes?


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## Tim (Jan 6, 2003)

*Elvington*

Yep, been to Elvington in it a few times.


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## paul (Oct 13, 2002)

yeh i knew i recognised it from TOTB. should have a picture of it haha. but i cant post pictures so never mind


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## Richie (Oct 18, 2001)

Awesome combo, congrats!!


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## nigel f (Sep 11, 2002)

*Fantastic*

Tim, It looks fantastic.

We had a caracking day on Saturday weather was good, we will have to set a day soon to go for a ride. Looks like it would fit on the Drive !!

Does next door mind a lot of noise ???


Nigel


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## hipogtr (Feb 17, 2002)

Sweet Nur. Great choice on the wheels - TE37s are it!

Cya O!


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## bnr34vspec2 (Jul 20, 2001)

Tim, excellence choice on the TE37, I will get some for my car too after hipogtr inspired me with picture of his car  

Tim.......can I confirm with you your car in those pictures is still with standard height? I am pretty sure it is, just want to make sure. Thanks ahead.

Jeff


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## Tim (Jan 6, 2003)

Hi Jeff,
It's still standard height in those pics but it will be 35mm lower when it has all the mods done in a few weeks time. Just about decided on the final mods now.

HKS intake & hard pipe kit
HKS hiper exhaust, downpipes & elbows
HKS cams & pulleys
Steel head gasket
Thermostatic oil cooler
cusco catch tank
Kevlar cam belt
nismo fuel pump & reg
Bigger AFM's
Apex-i power FC & hand controller
Injectors
Uprated intercooler
Uprated radiator
Dow max lowering springs
Cusco adjustable top arms (bit of neggy camber)
OSG triple or g-max twin clutch
OSG sequential box

Keeping the standard brakes for now but just trying better fluid and different pads first along with some ducting.
Also leaving the N1 turbos and bottom end, next step will be crank, rods, forged pistons and 25/30's if needed.

Have been toying with Nismo side and rear skirts but want to see a car with them on in the flesh first.
Should be good for 400BHP 

Did I read somewhere you've started on some mods?

Take care 
Tim


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## Trevor (Jul 2, 2002)

Be good for 400 bhp! your having a laugh aren't you! 

According to Rod Bell of RB Motorsport, 410 bhp on the R34 GT-R is easily acheivable with just a few select mods costing about £2,500 fitted inclusive of VAT and a service! 

The mods he speaks of are simply replacing the exhaust system (retaining the cat), downpipes, powerFC engine remap, iridium plugs, air intake cones and metal head gasket. 

Just this alone apparently transforms the feel of the car from factory standard and is a great first stage 1 since nothing is lost when you move to the next stage...

If you also add to this a pair of gorgeous Greddy/Trust Turbo's that Tim of SVS sells for about £2,200 inc vat I think you'll be seeing about 450-460 bhp - but then I guess with going for the the turbo's will come the need to uprated ic, oil catcher, clutch, metal ic pipes and all the other gubbins (call that a stage 2 then!!). For VFM you cannot beat stage 1!

T


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## bnr34vspec2 (Jul 20, 2001)

Hi Tim,

Yes I started with a little bit of mod. Actually really very little, I just put in a M's twin pods intake filter, some NGK iridium plugs and tuned the car on a 4WD dyno with the Apexi Power FC/hand controller and Apexi boost control kit. The result is very good (359 HP at all 4 wheels) considering it is tune on 95 (RON) octane fuel. You can see more details here if you haven't seen this thread already:

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7610&perpage=15&pagenumber=2

Right now I am slowly researching and deciding on the exact mods I want to do to my car, so far I bought the following:

Nismo cam belt
Nismo oil pan baffle plate
Mine's cam cover baffle plate
Nismo steel brake lines
Endless brake pads
Nismo metal head gasket and repair gasket kit
Nismo iridium plugs
Nismo CF rear diffuser fins
Cusco master cylinder stopper
Nissan clear rear N1 fog light
Nismo low temp thermostat
Nismo oil/radiator/fuel filler caps
Nismo MFD2
Nismo 320km gauge cluster

Nothing major, just a lot of minor cosmetic stuff.

Thank you for sharing the list of mods you are going to do, do you mind being a little more specific on which brand and spec on the parts? I like to know what exactly other people are buying for their cars to help me decide. For example, the brand and thickness of the steel head gasket you are getting, the brand and size of the injectors.......etc....... Thanks ahead  

So OSG finally have a sequential box for the BNR34?

Glad to hear from you.

Take care,

Jeff


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## Trevor (Jul 2, 2002)

Jeff,

Have you got a Nismo catalogue or a url link? I'd be interested in sourcing some of the parts on your list. Where did you buy them from? e.g. I didn't even know that Nismo made iridium plugs!

Trev


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## Simon (Feb 13, 2002)

Jeff, I am not trying to disprove your figures, but when you say 359hp at 4 wheels, do you actual mean at the wheels, or at the flywheel? With those mods I would expect 359hp at the flywheel.

It's seems a common thing in the US to refer to horsepower at the wheels, but the figures always seem to be what you would expect at the flywheel; for example I have read Sean Morris from Motorex refering to cars with 2530s to be running 600 all wheel horsepower. Is it just a terminology thing, and he really means flywheel horsepower just measured through the wheels on a 4WD rolling road rather than an engine dyno) ?

Thanks

Simon


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## bnr34vspec2 (Jul 20, 2001)

Trevor.............. yes I have a hard copy of the Nismo catalog, I don't think Nismo Japan have an online catalog. But Shin at Prospec motorsport does, it is the best English online catalog I have seen, you can see the Iridium spark plugs I mention listed in there:

http://www.prospec-ms.co.uk/merchandise/nismo_bnr34.html

You are in U.K., any of the major tuner can get you any parts you need, Shin at prospec, Mark at Abbey, or Middlehurst........etc. The Nismo iridium is basically a NGK plugs, Nismo source it from NGK and sell them in their own name. Most people do the same thing, like HKS sells Denso plug, Apexi sells NGK plug. Funny thing is, the plug from Nismo is actually cheaper then from NGK Japan direct. I get my parts from various sources, either I buy them when I am in Japan, or friend in Japan mail them to me, or I buy them from importer here in the U.S. I haven't try any of the online exporter yet if that is what you are asking me.

Simon.......good question, no offence taken. The power at the wheel and at the flywheel is a very confusing subject, I ask this question on other people all the time too! The 359hp I got was at the wheel on a 4WD dyno, NOT at the flywheel. Yes I know it seems a little high for the mods I have, it surprised me too when I found out, I was expecting more like 330 HP at the wheel. The reason I came up with for the higher then normal power is:

1, I have a N1 balanced and blueprinted engine with higher flowing N1 turbos (bigger compressor and turbine housing and different trim compressor wheel) with higher flowing N1 exhaust manifold (bigger inside diameter).
2, I had the car since new and the engine was perfectly broken in. The engine is very healthy with 10,000 miles on the clock.
3, All the fluids was changed prior to the dyno session, (front&rear diffs/engine/tranny/transfer case). All fluids are Redline full synthetic except the tranny (because the 6-speed Getrag don't like Redline fluid). Which means the drivetrain lost was minimized.
4, Brand new NGK Iridium plugs was put in hours before dyno session.
5, The shop have 2 VERY powerful fan blowing on the engine and the intercooler during the dyno pull.
6, The dyno session happened on a pretty cold night (7pm in early February, I know I was cold standing there)

My guess is the optimum condition of the weather and equipment have resulted in a good reading.

Most of us in the U.S. always refer to power at the wheel because we all use chassis dyno to measure power, very few import people use engine dyno here. Also we don't believe calculated flywheel power using measure drivetrain lost. I think the reason our power figure always seems to be high is because a lot of people here uses very high octane race fuel in their modified cars, and they don't mind pushing their cars to the absolute limit when dynoing. I believe Sean set the boost at 2.1 bars at one time on the 2530s just to see what will happen. There is another person here just dyno at 749 HP at all 4 wheels with a completely stock R33 RB26DETT's internal running on the stock gear box, it is possible, just don't know how long the engine and tranny would last. Then of course, the first trip down the drag strip, the tranny blew up, so they take it home to upgrade the gear box. This is the way some of the people do things here, they like to push the limit until something break, then fix what breaks and do it again. Most of these cars are their race car that they experiment on, which is why they are not afraid of breaking it. Unlike most cars in the U.K. and Japan, which is actually some people's daily driver and their only car.

I hope I answer your questions.

Take care,

Jeff


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## Tim (Jan 6, 2003)

Jeff
Will let you know more specific mods when finalised, that was just a general list.
I'd have to back you up on the power difference, My Nur is noticeably quicker than my UK 34, both standard. The Nur is a good 20mph quicker down the same 1.5m stretch of road measured on the same GPS.
The OSG sequential isn't specifically for the 34 as it needs a 33 transfer box and a bit of propshaft, The gearing has been ordered specially to suit the 34 diff ratio.
Can't wait to get that in.
Will keep you informed.

Tim

p.s. Did you see Russells dyno figures? Good results


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## Trevor (Jul 2, 2002)

That'll be the balanced engine, N1 pistons, N1 turbo's, etc. According to rumours the NUR edition kicks out 350 bhp on RON100 fuel as standard vs the 327 hp of the original uk v-spec gt-r. Also factor in some weight savings where made on the NUR like the carbon fibre front bonnet vs aluminium, etc.

Tim, before you get your monster modifications your planning done to your car are you planning to extract a set of standard dyno figures?


Trev


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## Tim (Jan 6, 2003)

*Dyno*

Trevor
Did think about it briefly but I know roughly what it should be. 
I'll probably put it on a dyno after these mods so I can see the improvements after the next phase.


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## bnr34vspec2 (Jul 20, 2001)

Tim.....thank you for answering my questions. Yes please keep me posted on specific on your mods. I am in the process of picking out parts for my car too.

I sure like to know if Russell's dyno figures is at the wheel or at the flywheel. I believe it is at the flywheel though, I don't think the stock N1 turbos can flow 540 HP at 1.2 bars.

Trevor.......... a Japanese magazine dyno a Nur and got 340 PS at the wheel on 100 Ron fuel. My car put out 336 HP at the wheel on 95 Ron fuel with the M's intake filter at 0.9 bar of boost.

Jeff


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## Bean (Oct 12, 2001)

Jeff,

I wouldn't be too sure that the N1s can't flow that much....Top Secret have an R32 with N1s on it which will do 650PS


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## bnr34vspec2 (Jul 20, 2001)

Bean said:


> *Jeff,
> 
> I wouldn't be too sure that the N1s can't flow that much....Top Secret have an R32 with N1s on it which will do 650PS  *


Bean,

Yeah I heard there is an MCR white R34 Demo car put out 620 PS on the stock N1 too.

What I am thinking is some of those cars have lots of other power adder to achive that kind of power with the N1 turbos, like 2.8L, big ported head, bigger valves, huge cams, running high boost (1.5+ bar). Since Amerikiwi's car is 2.6L, have mild cams, and at relatively low boost (1.2 bar). My guess was the 540 HP is at the motor. But it is only my guess. It would be awesome if his figure is at the wheel.

Jeff


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## Bean (Oct 12, 2001)

Jeff,

I agree mate.
TopSecret must have done a lot of work to get 650 from a set of N1s.
I just wanted to point out that it is possible (but very extreme!)


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## bnr34vspec2 (Jul 20, 2001)

Bean said:


> *Jeff,
> 
> I agree mate.
> TopSecret must have done a lot of work to get 650 from a set of N1s.
> I just wanted to point out that it is possible (but very extreme!) *


Bean,

Thank you for pointing it out, your input is always appreciated  

My guess was right  Amerikiwi's figure is at the flywheel, which make sense since his motor is relatively stock except for a pair of cams. Which is what I am after for reliability reason.

Jeff


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## Amerikiwi (Feb 5, 2002)

Tim. Car looks great. Nice choice on the wheels - makes all the difference.

Jeff you are right, except for the cams everything else below is fuel, air flow / breathing and upping the boost. What amazing engines. If I can achieve 560hp @ 1.4 bar then I will definately look for a way to get into the 600 club without going into the engine. Hmmm! there has to be a way. Also the engine has no miles on it so I think the power figures are on the low side. I'm sure I'll get a better result once the engine has been run in.

VX-ROM ECU with 600cc injectors
VX-Air filter
Big capacity air flow meters
Big capacity fuel pump
Super camshaft
Processing turbine bypass port
Turbo actuators
Super turbine outlet pro 2
Metal head gasket
Cam gears
Cam cover oil baffle plate
Carbon fibre air cleaner duct
EVC4 boost controller
Intercooler piping kit
G-max twin plate clutch
Iridium spark plugs
Front pipe pro 2
Silence VX-pro titanium exhaust
Brake hose
Brake fruid
R-tune brake pads
Sport radiator
Sport intercooler
Air inlet pipe
Cam belt
Oil pan baffle plate

Cheers.


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## bnr34vspec2 (Jul 20, 2001)

Hi Amerikiwi,

Thank you for posting your mod. list.

My mod. list is shaping up to be VERY similar to yours  

My goal is 500 HP to the wheel, which is about 600 HP at the motor. One way I know to get the extra power without going into the engine is from minimizing the drivetrain lost by getting carbon fiber driveshaft, ATS carbon clutch, light weight wheels, Greddy underdrive aluminum belt pulley, electric fan.......etc..... You get my idea. So even though the engine is making the same power, there would be more power to the wheel.

I read somewhere a good CF driveshaft alone is good for a 5% power increase to the wheel. 5% at 560 HP is 28HP  

All those light weight drivetrain parts does make the car harder to get going, but once it is moving, it would feels great  

Jeff


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## Amerikiwi (Feb 5, 2002)

Hi Jeff.
Sounds like you are doing some research and have some interesting points. Trouble is that just the CF shaft and Magnesium wheels will set you back about $10K USD. Maybe one day


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## bnr34vspec2 (Jul 20, 2001)

Hello Amerikiwi,

Yes they are indeed very expensive, but you know they worth every Yen  

Regarding the magnesium wheels, after some research and thought, I have concluded they are not worth the price and hassle. Magnesium wheels only save about roughly 0.7 KG per wheel compare to the Nismo LM GT4 and the Rays TE37. The fact that they are very fragile make them not very suitable for a street car. The LM GT4 you have are perfect  

Jeff


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## Bean (Oct 12, 2001)

Jeff,

Just FYI - SE37s are almost 1Kg lighter than TE37s, and they're not magnesium


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## Tim (Jan 6, 2003)

Sony image station back on now so I've put some full size pics on page 1, sorry if they're too big.

Jeff,
Car goes on a dyno on Tuesday next week then back on the same one after its mods so I'll keep you posted.


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## bnr34vspec2 (Jul 20, 2001)

Bean.......thank you for the FYI . I knew the SE37 is lighter then the TE37, but I didn't know it is that much lighter ..... wow....  Too bad I prefer the look of the TE37 much more  especially after seeing hipogtr's car  I tell you, I always buy parts that are pretty, not good  

Tim.......... thank you for keeping us posted. I am sure we all like to know your result  

Jeff


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## DCD (Jun 28, 2001)

Tim....you mentioned you are going for a OSG sequential. Do you have any info on this as I can't find any information at all here in Japan!! Not even the tuners can offer many views on it....

Cheers


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## bnr34vspec2 (Jul 20, 2001)

Dino,

Seems like Tim is going for a R33 OSG box to put in his 34, this is what he said earlier in case you didn't see it:

The OSG sequential isn't specifically for the 34 as it needs a 33 transfer box and a bit of propshaft, The gearing has been ordered specially to suit the 34 diff ratio.

I am sure Tim can give you much more details info on it.

Jeff


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## Tim (Jan 6, 2003)

Dino,
It's basically as Jeff said, it was also mentioned a while back in this thread OSG Sequential 
The gearing offered didn't really suit the 33 or the 34 as a road car, from memory 8000 rpm in 6th would give around 175mph in a 33 or a much better 220mph in a 34 but the lower gears didn't suit a 34 so these have been specially selected and should make a really good set-up.


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## DCD (Jun 28, 2001)

Uhm....well that is what I pretty much knew. I was just making sure they hadn't released a kit for the R34. That is an awful lot of things you have to change to make it work on a 34 though....let us knw how it goes...

I'm personally waiting to see what Pfitzner Performace is coming up with


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