# full respray



## bazza1 (Aug 18, 2007)

How much roughly would a full replay cost as I'm thinking of getting mine done, it's not a colour change just white as it is now.

Baz


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## r33 gtr v spec (Jul 12, 2008)

i have been quoted £3500 for complete A1 top job, stripped including windows out, all the prep work re spray same colour and rebuild, if anyone knows as good cheaper im all ears


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## gillsl500 (Jun 20, 2005)

Theres a bloke near me currently doing some paint for me, he's supposed to be the dogs doo da's and said a full respray wOuld be around £1500!! Once he's done my paint i'l post a pic up for you buddy!! Sounded abit cheap to me, but a friend of mine had him paint his cozzy...like looking into a mirror !!


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## Shakey Finch (Jul 5, 2005)

3.5k is cheap for a full respray inc all the prep work! Ask to see examples of the bodyshops similar work, and go from there.

I would expect to be quoted 8k for first class professional bare metal respray...

Just beware that you get what you pay for.


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## r33 gtr v spec (Jul 12, 2008)

seen some of thier work and i was very impressed, watched an evo get stripped after a serious frontal, pulled chopped welded painted and re built i was sure it was not the same car, had to check the vin to believe him, they do alot of insurance work


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## RJT (Mar 4, 2011)

ouch, 8k would be a bit steep.

The prep is the killer, thats where the extra labour and materials comes in to play. so it depends on the state of the body now, and any other work you want doing on top.

Obviously prices vary, but for a same colour respray, 2k ish and up depending on prep etc


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## Sidious (Jul 14, 2006)

Would be better and cheaper just to source mint condition body panels - atleast it has the original Nissan factory paint which you cant go wrong with.


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## RJT (Mar 4, 2011)

Not really, have you ever seen parts off salvage cars, they dont exactly bubble wrap them up. 
Besides, whats he going to do with the sills, 1/4's and roof??


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## HeavyDuty (Apr 27, 2012)

Sidious said:


> Would be better and cheaper just to source mint condition body panels - atleast it has the original Nissan factory paint which you cant go wrong with.


I don't think it matters which exact panels you cobble it together with, it'd never match.

Last car I had painted was in 2004, a three year old Acura that had battery acid sprayed on the paint. I paid $4000 for the repaint on that with no color change.

By contrast, I paid $1200 to have a 1971 Monte Carlo SS454 full restoration paint job performed in 1984.


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## MIKEGTR (Jul 8, 2005)

Sidius u obviously know very little about factory paintwork. I'd expect any competent body shop to give u a better paint job than factory. Just ask any r35 owner. 

FYI mine is currently in the body shop and u get what u pay for!


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## JTJUDGE (Nov 21, 2011)

it can't be hard to do a lot of the prep yourself to save some money.


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## r33 gtr v spec (Jul 12, 2008)

do the prep myself, this is so true and i intended to go this route, but after thinking about it and realising that if i get one scratch during re build im stuck with it, then it dont matter how much i saved its still scratched before and after painting, plus i dont have the machinery or experience for the sanding part. for these reasons
ill stick to building engines.


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## Sidious (Jul 14, 2006)

RJT said:


> Not really, have you ever seen parts off salvage cars, they dont exactly bubble wrap them up.
> Besides, whats he going to do with the sills, 1/4's and roof??


Well that's why you need to take the time to ensure the panels are actually 'mint' or very good condition. 

Roof and rear 1/4 panels if necessary can be re-painted at the best quality you can afford, atleast its a damn sight more affordable than a full on 8k respray.

I rather a car age well, than 'botox' it with a respray.


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## Sidious (Jul 14, 2006)

MIKEGTR said:


> Sidius u obviously know very little about factory paintwork. I'd expect any competent body shop to give u a better paint job than factory. Just ask any r35 owner.
> 
> FYI mine is currently in the body shop and u get what u pay for!


If you mean that thick deepy shiny attract attention on Southend sea front paint work is better than factory, then I will have to disagree with you there, Mike.

When I see a car that has been re-sprayed, it looks re-sprayed and that is a big turn off i.m.o. Hence the 'botox' look.

I agree good re-sprays cost alot of money, but real world experience says it wont be long till that expensive botox job is ruined even more by stone chipping, people walking into them in car parks, dings etc etc.


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## RJT (Mar 4, 2011)

Not ALL resprays have this 'botox' look you speak of.

It's generally for one of 2 reasons. Either it was done in bad conditions or by a crap painter and it had to be fully flatted back to remove dirt/runs etc. Then when polished up, it looks too flat.

Or, it was requested this way. The likes of show cars/hot rods etc like that sort of paint as it looks deep and glossy. Bentleys and astons etc have this type of Finnish too.

All production cars will have some extent of 'orange peel' when you look at them. This is the factory finish, and is what should be aimed for by a bodyshop when doing repairs so they go unnoticed by all but the most trained eye!


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## HeavyDuty (Apr 27, 2012)

RJT said:


> Not ALL resprays have this 'botox' look you speak of.


^ Amen to that.

It takes a lot more talent to match a factory finish than spray and sand flat. Our first shop was within a 40,000 square foot high-end body shop, I learned a lot in that few years watching collision repair and learning about proper preparation.

OP, IMHO, you're doing it the right way, mechanical & running gear, paint, then interior in that order, lest you invariably will botch something.

As far as gathering pre-painted panels and so forth, they'll *never* match each other. For instance, if the car in question is white, and the car before it was black or silver, there's going to be traces of the previous color in the next in line. When I repainted my 91 B13 SE-R, there were two or three options on the Aztec Red provided by the paint manufacturer (Glasurit) to match production variations in the color. Then to add insult to injury, look at the color variation between different substrates of metal body parts vs bumper covers, they always look different, even brand new on the lot.


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## RJT (Mar 4, 2011)

Yeh there is always more than one shade of a colour. Certainly makes life hard on some cars. 

The reason bumpers tend to look off colour is because they are painted on a different line. Probably not even in the same factory in some cases.

You wouldn't paint edge to edge when doing a repair, you'd always blend out. Even when fitting a new bumper in most cases. 

I don't know how manufacturers can send the cars out from new with odd colour bumpers, It's just plain wrong. I couldn't do it if I repaired someone's car, they'd kick up a right stink.


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## NISFAN (Oct 11, 2003)

HeavyDuty said:


> .....Then to add insult to injury, look at the color variation between different substrates of metal body parts vs bumper covers, they always look different, even brand new on the lot.


That's because there are two paint systems at play. 

Bumpers, mirrors, and other plastics are almost always painted by the supplier of these parts. They are also painted to a different cure technique, as they cannot be 'baked' like the body in white. 
A few manufacturers have played with plastic panels capable of being baked, Renault Scenic front wings, Freelander front wings, etc. on these the colour is exactly the same as the metal panels as they have been painted at the same time with the same process.

Factory paint is hard to emulate because of this, as you can't bake a built up car like they do in the factory. Anyone in the game will know that the paint available to non OEM is termed 'RE-FINISH' and is a totally different animal to OE paint.


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## HeavyDuty (Apr 27, 2012)

That all makes sense. Because I believe I have a good eye for this kind of thing it's a blessing and a curse. Once I notice a difference like we're chatting about, it's *ALL* I see & it drives me nuts. How others can look right past it or not see it even when you point it out to them is beyond me.

The guy who sprayed my B13 SE-R did bake the front & rear bumper covers and the rear spoiler, but I'm sure it was a lower temp than the car, like you're saying. The match between them and the car was perfect, this guy is very talented.

Come to think of it, I had to replace the original hood with a OE Nissan replacement as the adhesive between the hood frame and the hood shrunk in the oven making little divots all over the hood. 

That car was almost as cursed as my '52 Studebaker pickup that claimed three mens' lives duing it's restoration. I inherited it...and sold it immediately. :nervous:


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## NISFAN (Oct 11, 2003)

Yep, once you notice the shade difference it does stand out.......more so nowadays as the bumpers are more 'integrated'......before there was usually a significant angle change which masked the issue.


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## Sidious (Jul 14, 2006)

HeavyDuty said:


> That all makes sense. Because I believe I have a good eye for this kind of thing it's a blessing and a curse. Once I notice a difference like we're chatting about, it's *ALL* I see & it drives me nuts. How others can look right past it or not see it even when you point it out to them is beyond me.


Then you have very little understanding of real world value vs cost of the kind of paint jobs you keep preaching about.

An 8K paint job on an 8K car that will probably be driven fast over UK roads is not sensible value for money, even if you cannot spot the difference between panels.


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## NISFAN (Oct 11, 2003)

Sidious said:


> Then you have very little understanding of real world value vs cost of the kind of paint jobs you keep preaching about.
> 
> An 8K paint job on an 8K car that will probably be driven fast over UK roads is not sensible value for money, even if you cannot spot the difference between panels.


Your opinion might not be the same as others.....isn't it a great world 

If more people were prepared to pay £8k for a respray, I think half of the members on this forum would be in the respray business


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## WARP SPEED (Aug 14, 2012)

*vinyl wrap!*

Why not have it vinyl wrapped you can have it in white,satin black,blue chrome or even carbonfibre it should be alot quicker and cheaper to get done then a respray. :smokin: or you can just befriend a paint sprayer and try and get mates rates.


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## WARP SPEED (Aug 14, 2012)

*vinyl wrap!*

oops double post (hangs head in shame)


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## r33 gtr v spec (Jul 12, 2008)

i looked into the wrap, i probably have not seen a good one, all that i have looked at have had little blisters or faults if you look close


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## Mookistar (Feb 5, 2004)

my car has got about 4 different sets of paint on it. Front bumper, rear bumper, skirts, spats, and splitter and you'd be hard pushed to tell

Mook


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## HeavyDuty (Apr 27, 2012)

8K on an 8K car would be excessive in my opinion also. Depends on the car and ones expectations. 4-5k should net a restorative quality job if there's not significant rust and body work. 

My old B13 had degenerated clear coat racing stripes down the entire car. I liked the car and planned on keeping it for 5 or so years (ended up keeping it for 12 years) so I figured if I was going to to it, I was going to do it right.

To each their own.


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## goldgtr35 (Aug 15, 2012)

As some one in the bodyshop game... 8k isnt a mad price for some one to price,,
Todays paints are nothing like paint of 5 years ago.
Todays paint is all waterbased unless you go yo a back street garage that hasnt even got a basic oven, Guessing without looking into it a full respray in waterbase with Lacquer, paint alone would come to over 2k.
Im not on here trying to get work as i have 30ish staff and booked up for a month in advance, Back street garage use cheap thinners and thats what causes micro blister water expanding in cold weather and leaving raised spots all over,
You could get a good firm to wrap the car for about 2k, this would sort out colour match but not dents & rust,,
Hope this helps 
Regards Stuart G


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## YokoAE86 (May 23, 2007)

goldgtr35 said:


> As some one in the bodyshop game... 8k isnt a mad price for some one to price,,
> Todays paints are nothing like paint of 5 years ago.
> Todays paint is all waterbased unless you go yo a back street garage that hasnt even got a basic oven, Guessing without looking into it a full respray in waterbase with Lacquer, paint alone would come to over 2k.
> Im not on here trying to get work as i have 30ish staff and booked up for a month in advance, Back street garage use cheap thinners and thats what causes micro blister water expanding in cold weather and leaving raised spots all over,
> ...


At last someone talking some real world sense!


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## markM3 (Jan 7, 2008)

Mate quoyed me £2500ish for windows out paint job - prob £3500+ for non mates I would suspect.


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## goldgtr35 (Aug 15, 2012)

Mark.... i would never knock any one work with out seeing the job & knowing how much some one payed for it,
Depends on what paint & thinners and clearcoat hes using,, If its going to be painted in a shed or a oven, Is he insured if the car gets damaged or knicked when its there,
And lastly what sort of warranty he gives his work.
A 1 man band would take a full week to do this on hes own if he was lucky.
He has to be a small company because you havent quoted the dreaded VAT.
Mate a i said before the qualitie of the paint i use this price cant be done,
Hope all turns out all right & wish you well.


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## Alex j B (Apr 24, 2004)

markM3 said:


> Mate quoyed me £2500ish for windows out paint job - prob £3500+ for non mates I would suspect.


Thats the sort of figure's we were talking when we used to do custom paintwork, (gave it up about 5 years ago), windows out, all removable parts removed, doors, boot bonnet removed and shuts done, the only thing we wouldn't do is the engine bay, that was always done on an hourly. Cost was always +paint and the cheapest we'd use was Lechler, though always recommend House Of Kolor as it is among the highest quality paint available. Can't remember what our warranty was, maybe 5 years?

We used a heated booth, (not an oven as the only person that really benefits is the company owner, we never got involved with waterbased so can't comment on that, as there are loopholes for the use of 2 pack), and won many awards for our paintwork at both custom and classic shows.

Having said that we didn't have horrendous overheads and where at the higher end of the price scale when we gave up, so I would expect to pay a bit more now.

Alex B


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## RJT (Mar 4, 2011)

Lets not forget, the guy was enquiring about a same colour respray, in white. Not a full on restoration/custom job and colour change.


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## Alex j B (Apr 24, 2004)

Sorry I didn't actually read the original post. It's still possible the door shuts would have been done, as thats good practice, outside only is a really basic job. We would still have suggested the same job I stated above, though the option of leaving the door/boot/bonnet shut for a saving of £250, which is what we charged for a 2/3 door, think it was £350 for a 4/5 door, it didn't cover the work but was a token charge.

We only had one standard which was restoration/show, we never got involved in mask up and blowovers.

Alex B


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## RJT (Mar 4, 2011)

Not a fan of the word 'blowover'. I get asked this all the time "how much would it be for a blowover on me cossie??" 
Its basicly a bodge, and i wont go there..

But there is noting wrong with doing a full outside respray.


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## markM3 (Jan 7, 2008)

He has done paintwork for me, but supect it was at cost price.

All work was oven based and he is insured. Re warranty....well for me, I would just take it back and he would sort any issue (he used a primer on my wings he didn't normally use and settlement occurred, so he redid it all). I sincerely hope he would do the same for any customer, but obviously I haven't asked.

I believe some Nissam MP paint is £500 per litre...luckily Pearl Black isn't!

I'm sure if anyone wants a quote I can ask him.

Quote didn't include engine bay.

Cheers,


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## bazza1 (Aug 18, 2007)

Thanks for all the replies on this guys. I've got to get the car MOT'd as it's been stored for nearly 18 months then use it for a few months before the winter sets in then look at getting it resprayed over the winter ready for when the good weather returns.

Thanks once again.


Baz


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## Lubo69GTR (Mar 4, 2010)

Interesting looking at this Baz because I have the same plan as you (but in silver). I have a bit of rust (and a previous repair) on the drivers quarter and a few bit's I'm not happy with. I was thinking about 2k at most but have not been to see a sprayer.

I'd pay 8K if it was in solid gold but that'd probably affect the performance :chuckle:


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## bazza1 (Aug 18, 2007)

Might slow it up just a tad.


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## r33 gtr v spec (Jul 12, 2008)

taking mine in to see exactly what it will cost me in the next few weeks, it will be same colour paint (silver) glass out job under the bonnet and in boot is grey stock anyway so not need doing. i will let you know exactly what he says and how much


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## bazza1 (Aug 18, 2007)

Cheers mate,

Look forward to hearing what you're quoted.


Baz


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## paul cawson (Jul 3, 2003)

I paid £1100 for a full same colour Black respray with quite a bit of prep work


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## TheD (Aug 25, 2008)

£2500 is probably the least you'd want to look at for a full respray. Make sure you theres going to be plenty of paint on, not just a blow over, and make sure they strip and treat all the usual problem areas because if they don't, once it comes back through in 6 months to a year, it'll stick out like a sore thumb. Make sure the quote includes all door shuts, slams and boot space and windows out. 
Most of all, speak to people who have used them before, look at their cars and make sure the spray job is a few years old because even crap paint jobs will look mint when fresh...


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## moddingdog (Mar 31, 2008)

Fullyloadedcars do a full respray for £3500 plus paint and this is the result


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