# Going to view a R33 GTR



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

Afternoon everyone,

Quite frankly I would like to know as I am extremely new to everything skyline, what points I should look out for when viewing a car at the end of the week.

I am aware of rust around the front shock struts and rear arches but other than that I am unsure? (other than normal stuff like crash damage etc). 

If that could include anything whilst the car is moving e.g. brakes juddering or what ever a common occurrence is then that would be great.

Also I am sorry if this has been covered before, I have been trying to do some research on it and of course I am sorry if this is in the wrong section.

Nick.


----------



## Mookistar (Feb 5, 2004)

Got any links to the car?


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

Mookistar said:


> Got any links to the car?


It's not online bud, it's local and the seller hasn't listed it for sale. I just happened to ask and he is wanting to sell it.


----------



## tonigmr2 (Sep 12, 2002)

Rust, rust and rust most importantly! How much MOT has it got and what sort of price is he looking at. I am sure people on here could advise.

Perhaps you could take a few photos when looking round it?


----------



## Jags (May 20, 2007)

Check it makes good oil pressure both hot and cold, do a compression test too if you can


----------



## Mookistar (Feb 5, 2004)

Is it modified?


----------



## JTJUDGE (Nov 21, 2011)

as above. Rust, but not just the arches or struts. Look under the car along the sills and run your hand along the inside of the rear qtr at the bottom. Plus all the normal stuff as well. Test drive it and change through all the gears 1-5 then 5-1.


----------



## GTR-RICHARD-89 (Feb 13, 2014)

Jags said:


> Check it makes good oil pressure both hot and cold, do a compression test too if you can


Agree 

I haven't bought any car without doing a compression test where possible.


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

tonigmr2 said:


> Rust, rust and rust most importantly! How much MOT has it got and what sort of price is he looking at. I am sure people on here could advise.
> 
> Perhaps you could take a few photos when looking round it?


MOT unsure of as we haven't spoke much about it as the guy is busy with work for a little while. Rust will definitely be on the cards as a main thing to look for.


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

Jags said:


> Check it makes good oil pressure both hot and cold, do a compression test too if you can


I am sorry but how do I do that? I am only used to Diesels up until now so it's going to be a bit of a trial by fire


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

Mookistar said:


> Is it modified?


From the quick conversation I had with the gent, it has a different exhaust system (unsure of how far is goes towards the engine in regards to the cat or manifold), a different set of air intakes and some form of either boost controller or management computer of sorts? Didn't quite catch it when he mentioned it.

Oh and coilovers.


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

JTJUDGE said:


> as above. Rust, but not just the arches or struts. Look under the car along the sills and run your hand along the inside of the rear qtr at the bottom. Plus all the normal stuff as well. Test drive it and change through all the gears 1-5 then 5-1.


Right OK will do thanks bud,

I presume doing full lock circles is a good way to listen for knocking in the diff too?


----------



## Mookistar (Feb 5, 2004)

Where is the vehicle based? Sounds a bit odd that you'd be wanting to buy it without knowing too much about it esspecailly as it isn't for sale. How much is he asking?


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

Mookistar said:


> Where is the vehicle based? Sounds a bit odd that you'd be wanting to buy it without knowing too much about it esspecailly as it isn't for sale. How much is he asking?


I suppose it's a weird story. I have wanted a skyline for quite some time but haven't had the time due to work to go view some. So this weekend before picking my wife up from work I stop at my local Tesco to get some cash out. 

There is a GTR parked up and I go  and park next too it, get out have a quick look and go get the cash. Upon coming back the owner turns up and I compliment the car, he said he doesn't use it enough and frankly doesn't have the time to list it for sale but wants to sell it, it also turns out that by a stroke of luck he lives 8 miles away from me (both in Berkshire) so I am (once he has free) going to have a proper look and test drive of the car. As at the time the wife was getting impatient. I didn't manage to get too much in the way of detail on it other than the bare basics 

He said he wants around £8000, which to me sounds about right, it's a midnight purple one.


----------



## Mookistar (Feb 5, 2004)

I'd be very wary of buying a car just because it's local. If you are really serious you need to get more information out of him. Who's serviced it, exactly what mods has it got and what it's history is. Location is THE least important factor when buying a money pit.

Mike


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

Mookistar said:


> I'd be very wary of buying a car just because it's local. If you are really serious you need to get more information out of him. Who's serviced it, exactly what mods has it got and what it's history is. Location is THE least important factor when buying a money pit.
> 
> Mike


Thanks dude

That is why I am going to view it first and have a chat with him about it then, as I said I had no time when I met him and the car looked brilliant so I felt it was worth my time in regards to a viewing and test drive in the future. That coupled with the advice you guys can give I think I will have a better chance of making a informed decision.


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

So otherwise that's it? Rust and compression? (how ever that's tested )


----------



## LongRat (Apr 9, 2012)

Sorry I can't offer any meaningful advice on an R33. But the one thing that really puts me off sales is very common... people who have apparently done huge amounts of work modifying their car/engine but it's still not that quick, because it 'just needs injectors and a remap..' How many times have I heard that? Thousands of pounds worth of work and they stopped at the last tiny bit? Really? Car running 380 BHP. Good for 700+


----------



## Jags (May 20, 2007)

Compression check:

You need a compression check tool- available from Halfords etc

To do it, have the car warm and up to operating temp. Disconnect the cas sensor (round thing on front of engine). Remove coil pack cover, disconnect coil pack harness, remove coil packs then remove the spark plugs.

Screw the compression tester into one of the spark plug holes, crank the engine over for about 4 turns. See what the gauge reads, make a note of it and then repeat on the remaining 5 cylinders. Before removing the gauge from a cylinder make sure you release the pressure using the little button on the tester!

150psi is a good figure. There may be variance in the cylinders but as long as its around +/- 5psi it's all good.


----------



## Bspilner (Apr 18, 2014)

Check the trunk, for water and rust. My previous R33 had a trunk that looked like a aquarium at see world!


----------



## Natbrat300 (Mar 6, 2012)

Take someone with you who knows these cars, as it sounds like you are just about to get ripped off!


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

I don't think I would get ripped off as long as I have some information on what the normal things are to go on these cars? It's not like I haven't purchased cars before my current car is a 2006 A6 and that's been perfect because I did my research before-hand like I am attempting to do now.

I do appreciate where you are coming from though, but I don't know anyone who knows anything about skylines that could come with me.


----------



## JTJUDGE (Nov 21, 2011)

LongRat said:


> Sorry I can't offer any meaningful advice on an R33. But the one thing that really puts me off sales is very common... people who have apparently done huge amounts of work modifying their car/engine but it's still not that quick, because it 'just needs injectors and a remap..' How many times have I heard that? Thousands of pounds worth of work and they stopped at the last tiny bit? Really? Car running 380 BHP. Good for 700+


Not everybody goes for maximum power, lots stop short for maximum reliability


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

Well this owner said it was around the 380-400 mark as it hadn't had much work done too it, which I would prefer as it gives me a better starting off point.


----------



## Mookistar (Feb 5, 2004)

It's all just a bit too convenient to me. He meets you at random, says he'll sell you his car, you know nothing about the cars but are in the market. If you're serious about buying a Skyline start searching the classifieds for the RIGHT car, not the closest one.


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

It's not the first skyline I have wanted to look at, they are always either way too overpriced or already sold. 

There are no nice R33's for sale at the moment for under £9000 and from what I saw, his was a nice one. 

I don't see why I am having to justify this and I can't see what the issue is. All I am after is a little advice as what to look for when viewing a skyline. Be it I saw the car online for sale or I asked someone if they were selling it, I would still need the advice and the outcome would be the same wouldn't it. 

I am not going to look at it as it's the closest one, I am going to look at it as it's the first that isn't silly money and isn't a chaved up piece of crap that looks like it's been molested by a Halfords employee.



But please don't take that as being ungrateful for the concern given, but I just think we are focusing on the wrong subject here. Regardless of where or how I came to know about this Skyline, I am going to view it, it would be nice to go into that viewing with a slightly better understanding of them.


----------



## Natbrat300 (Mar 6, 2012)

Skylines are a different kettle of fish, it is not uncommon for someone to buy a good car and end up spending £5k+ in the first year alone!

If you decided to buy, at least ask the seller to let you have it checked out by a skyline specialist before you part with more than a very small deposit. If he refuses, then runaway!



FeedTheInferno said:


> I don't think I would get ripped off as long as I have some information on what the normal things are to go on these cars? It's not like I haven't purchased cars before my current car is a 2006 A6 and that's been perfect because I did my research before-hand like I am attempting to do now.
> 
> I do appreciate where you are coming from though, but I don't know anyone who knows anything about skylines that could come with me.


----------



## Mookistar (Feb 5, 2004)

FeedTheInferno said:


> It's not the first skyline I have wanted to look at, they are always either way too overpriced or already sold.
> 
> There are no nice R33's for sale at the moment for under £9000 and from what I saw, his was a nice one.
> 
> ...


Don't get me wrong, I'm not digging you out. It's just a bit "lazy" for me. If this guy is serious about selling, get a bit more info before you to see it so you can be prepared. Who's serviced it, what mods does it actually have, how long has he owned it etc and get the reg no for a Hpi (and a cheeky look online to see if you can find it on forums)

Seriously, the more info you have BEFORE you see it, the less likely you are to fall in lust with it when you view it.

Mike


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

Mookistar said:


> Don't get me wrong, I'm not digging you out. It's just a bit "lazy" for me. If this guy is serious about selling, get a bit more info before you to see it so you can be prepared. Who's serviced it, what mods does it actually have, how long has he owned it etc and get the reg no for a Hpi (and a cheeky look online to see if you can find it on forums)
> 
> Seriously, the more info you have BEFORE you see it, the less likely you are to fall in lust with it when you view it.
> 
> Mike


I do appreciate it bud and I know where you are coming from. I will text the bloke now and get as much info as I can on it and pop it up on here if that helps?

Also he did tell me he has owned the car 7 years, always been covered and kept indoors. There was one previous UK owner who had it before him who only owned it a year. He did tell me he once belonged to a club too, may not be here but he mentioned one.


----------



## Mookistar (Feb 5, 2004)

defo!


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

OK, so he is going to give all the info, with pictures tonight after he has finished work. So I will update the thread then.


----------



## R33 GTR (Sep 17, 2013)

LongRat said:


> Sorry I can't offer any meaningful advice on an R33. But the one thing that really puts me off sales is very common... people who have apparently done huge amounts of work modifying their car/engine but it's still not that quick, because it 'just needs injectors and a remap..' How many times have I heard that? Thousands of pounds worth of work and they stopped at the last tiny bit? Really? Car running 380 BHP. Good for 700+


The last tiny bit ?

New ECU, injectors fuel system and turbo's - that is not cheap


----------



## GTR-RICHARD-89 (Feb 13, 2014)

Good luck with the viewing mate !

If i was you i'd save a couple more grand and take your money to one of the good importing companys here in the uk and get them to source you a mint rust free one.


----------



## Mookistar (Feb 5, 2004)

GTR-RICHARD-89 said:


> Good luck with the viewing mate !
> 
> If i was you i'd save a couple more grand and take your money to one of the good importing companys here in the uk and get them to source you a mint rust free one.


nothing wrong with a well kept car already in the Uk and at least you can know it's history.


----------



## LongRat (Apr 9, 2012)

R33 GTR said:


> The last tiny bit ?
> 
> New ECU, injectors fuel system and turbo's - that is not cheap


You misunderstand me - it's when people already have the turbos, ECU, pump etc etc and apparently ONLY need the injectors and a map.


----------



## JTJUDGE (Nov 21, 2011)

Viewed it yet ?


----------



## majestic (May 3, 2010)

Come on all you 33 owners, tell him your experiences.


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

OK guys,

In answer to have I viewed it yet, no I haven't that is going to be at the end of the month as the seller is busy with work.

However as I mentioned I did message the seller asking for some more information on the car yesterday and he said he would provide some in the evening. So last night I get a call from him asking where I live, I tell him and he brings round the cars complete documentation folder and has a chat with me about the car.

The car has never been tracked, there is a little rust on the top struts of the car but that is apparently it, however I will still give it a good look over.

The mods are:-

Tein Superstreet Adjustable coilovers 
HSK Downpipe
Apex Exhaust straight through de-cat
K&N Air filters
Gizmo Boost controllers
Exedy Heavy duty clutch
Uprated clutch kit BCNR33
EBC Brake disks all round
Red stuff pads
Ultralite Nurburg 18' alloys with Falken FK tyres
Carbon fibre rear wing blade, end caps and pillar trim

Also the car has had 3 owners overall, 2 in the UK, the first in the UK has it 2ish years, the current owner has had it 5. 

The receipts for tuning and Dyno are in the paperwork too, 403hp tuned at rising run performance, it's been to abbey motorsport and a local garage for it's MOT's.

So yeah how does that all sound?


----------



## JTJUDGE (Nov 21, 2011)

FeedTheInferno said:


> OK guys,
> 
> In answer to have I viewed it yet, no I haven't that is going to be at the end of the month as the seller is busy with work.
> 
> ...


it will cost around 1.5k to fix the struts which will be a lot worse underneath the top skin. But, if the car drives really well, no rust on the body work and underneath is clean, 8k sounds ok imo


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

JTJUDGE said:


> it will cost around 1.5k to fix the struts which will be a lot worse underneath the top skin. But, if the car drives really well, no rust on the body work and underneath is clean, 8k sounds ok imo


Wow really that much?

How can I tell how much it has progressed? Is there a point the rust will have reached when I go look at it to indicate how quickly I need to get it done as I definitely wouldn't be able to afford that right away.


----------



## JTJUDGE (Nov 21, 2011)

FeedTheInferno said:


> Wow really that much?
> 
> How can I tell how much it has progressed? Is there a point the rust will have reached when I go look at it to indicate how quickly I need to get it done as I definitely wouldn't be able to afford that right away.


imagine a water bottle with a metal bottle cap. On the top its got a few rust spots, not much. Unscrew that bottle top and on the inside of said bottle cap its like the titanic, 

its always worse on the inside but its easily fixable


----------



## Mookistar (Feb 5, 2004)

struts are inevitable, best just have that budget in the back of your mind for the future. 

What is the mileage and what boost is it running (on standard turbos)


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

OK well I will defiantly keep that in mind for the future. Do they deteriorate fast then and once they are done is there anything that can be done to prevent it in the future?

It has just over 100k (miles & KM mix) running at .8 bar, about the middle of what the controller can do, I think he said it can do 1.2bar but it's not recommended for long as the stock turbos don't like over 1 bar for very long because they are ceramic?


----------



## Natbrat300 (Mar 6, 2012)

Has nobody picked up the fact that he brought over all the docs, but not the car!!


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

Natbrat300 said:


> Has nobody picked up the fact that he brought over all the docs, but not the car!!


The car get's put away bud, he doesn't use it as a daily runner and he has put it away and as he was coming from work I think it would have been cheeky to expect the car over too.


----------



## Mookistar (Feb 5, 2004)

Can you PM me the reg no.


----------



## RobGalley (Jul 2, 2001)

With 100k+ miles on it I would be checking for worn things such as rear steering arms, wheel bearings, interior generally etc. The things that you mention that been upgraded are things you would do as service type things (e.g. if a shock needs replacing, you replace it with an aftermarket set). If it hasn't really got any mods on it (e.g. ECU/turbos/engine refresh, oil cooler etc) I would say it doesn't have a lot going for it....so overall condition needs to be superb...

Service history (bills!) need checking carefully to see what work it has had done and when to give a full picture. 

Also future expense will be dictated by if you plan to do 2,000 miles a year or 20,000....

Cheers
Rob


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

RobGalley said:


> With 100k+ miles on it I would be checking for worn things such as rear steering arms, wheel bearings, interior generally etc. The things that you mention that been upgraded are things you would do as service type things (e.g. if a shock needs replacing, you replace it with an aftermarket set). If it hasn't really got any mods on it (e.g. ECU/turbos/engine refresh, oil cooler etc) I would say it doesn't have a lot going for it....so overall condition needs to be superb...
> 
> Service history (bills!) need checking carefully to see what work it has had done and when to give a full picture.
> 
> ...


It's only going to be a second car so the mileage won't be high, that said what do you think it should be worth money wise then? I thought it was a pretty good price at 8,000?


----------



## RobGalley (Jul 2, 2001)

FeedTheInferno said:


> It's only going to be a second car so the mileage won't be high, that said what do you think it should be worth money wise then? I thought it was a pretty good price at 8,000?


Have a look in the For Sale section on here and PH to see what has been (and is) for sale and for what sort of money. My guess taking miles and rust into account, and a private sale, would be 7k.

Going back to the paperwork, if it has lots of history of things being done to it over the years then this is good, but if its missing then its bad as lots of stuff could need doing!

I would suggest go and look at a few others as you may find increasing your budget to say 10k gives you a better selection of cars to consider...

(and sorry that sounds really old and sensible!!!)

Rob


----------



## JTJUDGE (Nov 21, 2011)

Just take pics and post them


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

OK guy's when I go see it at the end of the month I will get plenty of pictures and post them up.


----------



## RadoGTST (Jul 5, 2010)

And don't be scared by £1.5k Glasgow horror stories, one of top Skyline specialists not far from you charges roughly £400 per corner


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

RadoGTST said:


> And don't be scared by £1.5k Glasgow horror stories, one of top Skyline specialists not far from you charges roughly £400 per corner


Give me a clue then, who's that?


----------



## JTJUDGE (Nov 21, 2011)

RadoGTST said:


> And don't be scared by £1.5k Glasgow horror stories, one of top Skyline specialists not far from you charges roughly £400 per corner


I have a receipt from the previous owner on the car I owned from Rb motorsport charging 1.5k for the struts 
My last car had the struts done by abbey, guess how much it cost 

Maybe it can be done cheaper but it's not the kind of work you want done on the cheap


----------



## Mookistar (Feb 5, 2004)

Fourtoes quotes close to £1500 for a proper job. I've had a cheapo job done and it was a waste of money


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

Mookistar said:


> Fourtoes quotes close to £1500 for a proper job. I've had a cheapo job done and it was a waste of money


I rang abbey today and they said it would be between 600-1000 for a full repair and to be more accurate they would like some pictures when I have them.


----------



## Mookistar (Feb 5, 2004)

TBH, the struts are the least of your worries at the moment. The car could be hiding all sorts of scary shit.


----------



## SPEED MERCHANT (Jun 5, 2006)

To the rescue ... for this and any other R33 buyer ...

General Buyers Guide

R33 GT-R buyers guide


----------



## RadoGTST (Jul 5, 2010)

FeedTheInferno said:


> I rang abbey today and they said it would be between 600-1000 for a full repair and to be more accurate they would like some pictures when I have them.


This is exactly who I had on mind. :chuckle:


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

SPEED MERCHANT said:


> To the rescue ... for this and any other R33 buyer ...
> 
> General Buyers Guide
> 
> R33 GT-R buyers guide


That's exactly what I have been after thanks dude!

Right so I did a HPI car check and it's all fine it all came back clean. I also went to get a insurance quote today and the reg of the car according to the insurance is a GTST, even when all of its documentation including import and reg it's a GTR (it's 100% a GTR). So I am wondering if anyone else has had this issue with insuring them before? Has it got something to do with the fact they are imports?


----------



## RadoGTST (Jul 5, 2010)

Welcome to Skyline world. Most of them insurance companies won't even know what car you're talking about. Some of them updated their databases recently, some will still give you some funny lists to choose from


----------



## Mookistar (Feb 5, 2004)

Well based upon the Reg no. you gave me the DVLA think it's a GTS-t as well and the engine capacity is 2500cc

You need to check that sorted before you even think of buying it IMHO


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

Yeah I have just asked the owner about it now. It's strange as all the reg documents list it as a GTR hmmmm. I'll keep you all updated.


----------



## Mookistar (Feb 5, 2004)

the GTR element means **** all. Haver you seen the engine?


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

What's the annual tax on the GTR normally guys? It's the highest band isn't it, in the 400's?

Because this one is listed as low tax, maybe a mis-register to avoid the tax cost? The owner is chatting me about it now as he didn't import and register it. I think I need to go over the documents again.


----------



## tonigmr2 (Sep 12, 2002)

Not necessarily, it is a pre-2000 car after all so should be on the lower tax band. Some imported after 2004 got caught in the higher. Probably just means it has been in the country a while.


----------



## Mookistar (Feb 5, 2004)

You need to see the engine bay. Tax is about £230 a year on a 1995 GTR.


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

I haven't seen the engine yet but all the documentation points towards it being a GTR, even the import doc's 

You can't say the thread isn't interesting lol


----------



## Mookistar (Feb 5, 2004)

have you got ANY pictures of the car? He must have one on his phone he could send you


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

The only pictures I have are the pictures I took whilst my A6 was parked next to it and it was only the back end of the car.


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)




----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)




----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

Rang DVLA and to get it's model and engine capacity changed I would need to get a letter-headed document sent to them via Nissan confirming it's correct model and engine. 

It wouldn't cost anything to change it apparently so as long as it's a GTR engine in there and interior then I am OK.

What about chassis numbers? I presume when I see it I could look for it's number and get 100% confirmation that way?


----------



## Mookistar (Feb 5, 2004)

looks like a GTR to be fair, defo need that sorting though as insurance will be difficult.


----------



## waynegts (Nov 23, 2006)

it should be 4wd if its a gtr, rb26 engine, there are numbers stamped on the bulkhead which are different from gtr to gtst, cant remember what but i could check as i have both outside
that deffo looks like it has the wider gtr arches, when i first got my gtst in 2003 i rang the insurance and they asked if it was a van lol


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

waynegts said:


> it should be 4wd if its a gtr, rb26 engine, there are numbers stamped on the bulkhead which are different from gtr to gtst, cant remember what but i could check as i have both outside
> that deffo looks like it has the wider gtr arches, when i first got my gtst in 2003 i rang the insurance and they asked if it was a van lol



Thanks bud, when I was have a very quick look inside the car (through the window) I could see what looked like a 4wd light or switch? Maybe something that says when the 4wd system is active? Also the seller says the rear wheel steer still works perfectly.

I am happy that it is a GTR, just got to get the registration sorted out.


----------



## Panzerdan (Apr 26, 2014)

I went to see several r33's and all of them where rusty. Look at some r32's instead


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

waynegts said:


> it should be 4wd if its a gtr, rb26 engine, there are numbers stamped on the bulkhead which are different from gtr to gtst, cant remember what but i could check as i have both outside
> that deffo looks like it has the wider gtr arches, when i first got my gtst in 2003 i rang the insurance and they asked if it was a van lol


Is there any chance you could get that number for me bud that is different on both cars? Just gives me something to go there with


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

Panzerdan said:


> I went to see several r33's and all of them where rusty. Look at some r32's instead


Thanks bud, I don't like the look of the R32's and this is going to be a long term project so even if it had to completely strip it down to sort it, that's all part of the fun as long as it isn't too bad. But that's just part of going to look at the car in the first place


----------



## Jags (May 20, 2007)

R33GTR chassis number will start with BCNR33


----------



## JTJUDGE (Nov 21, 2011)

Bought it yet


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

JTJUDGE said:


> Bought it yet


Seeing at the end of the month as I mentioned earlier in the thread.

I am going to see Bobby at Zealou5 this weekend as I only live 30mins away and he said if he has the time he will come and view the car with me. So I will be in good hands!


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

Right so the owner brought the car round today and took me out in it. After a look around it the car is straight. A few minor things one ripple of rust on the drivers side inner arch (not visible unless you run you hand over it) 

The strut tops have a few marks of rust so they would be something that would need doing. The interior is in a really good condition.

I have two small concerns though, apparently the car has a twin plate clutch and in first it is quite juddery, I am wondering if this is more something associated with a worn clutch or normal for a twin plate? It didn't slip at any other gears and the engine pulled really strongly though every gear.

Next is a little squeak from the front passengers side either with the suspension or brakes, hard to tell.

The car inside was a bit rattley (noise wise) but again I presume that's normal due to age?


----------



## matty32 (Dec 18, 2005)

Clutch will be ok /normal

rust 

its what you cant see thats the issue

walk away.


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

But I am lead to believe they all have a amount of rust of some sort on them? Other than very high value ones so although that is a reason for discount surely it should be a walk away point?


----------



## Jags (May 20, 2007)

It's an old car, you can't expect it to have zero rust, it'll be a minimum of 16 years old, if it's a 1995 model then its 19 years old!


----------



## goghat (May 13, 2007)

Jags said:


> It's an old car, you can't expect it to have zero rust, it'll be a minimum of 16 years old, if it's a 1995 model then its 19 years old!


Mine is 18 years old, and has zero rust, they are out there, but they won't be cheap, I'm thinking of letting mine go, but I would want big money for it, because of the spec and condition, good luck to the op in his search.


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

goghat said:


> Mine is 18 years old, and has zero rust, they are out there, but they won't be cheap, I'm thinking of letting mine go, but I would want big money for it, because of the spec and condition, good luck to the op in his search.


That's just the thing my budget isn't huge and rust can be address, I bet for the amount this car is selling for + all the cost of rust removal it would probably cost the same as what yours would anyway so yeah 

Just out of interest what do you consider big money?


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

Well the deal is finalised. Just sorting the money now but my offer on the car was accepted so I should have it by the end of the week. Thanks for the help guys


----------



## Mookistar (Feb 5, 2004)

Rear quarter rust can be a nightmare. Make sure you read some of the restoration threads in here. My "relatively rust free" example, with no rear arch rust showing, needed well over a weeks worth of labour to remedy and you can imagine what that cost. Just don't assume its a rub down and primer and then job done. Get it on the ramps at the earliest opportunity.


----------



## majestic (May 3, 2010)

None are so blind as those that dont want to see.


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

Mookistar said:


> Rear quarter rust can be a nightmare. Make sure you read some of the restoration threads in here. My "relatively rust free" example, with no rear arch rust showing, needed well over a weeks worth of labour to remedy and you can imagine what that cost. Just don't assume its a rub down and primer and then job done. Get it on the ramps at the earliest opportunity.


Thank you, it will be going to Zealou5 as soon as it can for a good check over.

The isn't a hint of rust on the rear quarter at all, all there is a slight ripple the inside of the drivers side rear arch (where the two metal panels have come apart. No rust can be felt but I am sure some will be there but hopefully it isn't too bad.


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

majestic said:


> None are so blind as those that don't want to see.


I appreciate the help, but I don't appreciate this comment. Have you seen the car? I have.

It's a very clean car overall and for the money I got it for. I think it's good value. I will start a thread with pictures once I have it.


----------



## Chris Wilson (Aug 20, 2001)

Rust, synchro wear, oil pressure, oil smoke, normal boost levels, noises from front of engine. Beware cheap after market dampers, many are irreparable if they leak, knock or are tired. I'd definitely want to see it on a ramp. I'd definitely want an expert to look it over if you are not used to buying used cars. Turbo replacement, and internal engine repairs can be very costly, as can fixing tired gearbox synchro problems. Lowered cars can knacker the front driveshaft inner c/v boots, and generally handle like a dog. As near stock as possible is probably best. Some mods are of dubious quality and value. Body kits can rub through paint, be attached in a ludicrous manner, can be hard to replace if damaged, and are often found on accident damaged cars as the bits in Japan are cheaper than stock trim. I am in north Shropshire and know them inside out if it's any help. I do put a price on my time though.


----------



## JTJUDGE (Nov 21, 2011)

FeedTheInferno said:


> I appreciate the help, but I don't appreciate this comment. Have you seen the car? I have.
> 
> It's a very clean car overall and for the money I got it for. I think it's good value. I will start a thread with pictures once I have it.


I'll give you until the weekend before I start pestering you for pics


----------



## trevbwhite (May 15, 2007)

is that 100k on the original engine?


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

Chris Wilson said:


> Rust, synchro wear, oil pressure, oil smoke, normal boost levels, noises from front of engine. Beware cheap after market dampers, many are irreparable if they leak, knock or are tired. I'd definitely want to see it on a ramp. I'd definitely want an expert to look it over if you are not used to buying used cars. Turbo replacement, and internal engine repairs can be very costly, as can fixing tired gearbox synchro problems. Lowered cars can knacker the front driveshaft inner c/v boots, and generally handle like a dog. As near stock as possible is probably best. Some mods are of dubious quality and value. Body kits can rub through paint, be attached in a ludicrous manner, can be hard to replace if damaged, and are often found on accident damaged cars as the bits in Japan are cheaper than stock trim. I am in north Shropshire and know them inside out if it's any help. I do put a price on my time though.


Rust is only on the strut tops, the synchro may have gone or it could just need some new gearbox fluid or even a simple linkage. The engine is strong and doesn't blow out any smoke of any colour and doesn't splutter. There isn't any body kit at all thankfully. 

Overall even with it's little niggles, is it not worth it for the money?


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

Here it is:-


----------



## Mookistar (Feb 5, 2004)

Don't forget the amend the V5 so it shows as a GTR and make sure the insurance cover it as such

Looks pretty good.


----------



## FeedTheInferno (Aug 15, 2014)

Mookistar said:


> Don't forget the amend the V5 so it shows as a GTR and make sure the insurance cover it as such
> 
> Looks pretty good.



The previous owner already did that for me, took it to a Nissan dealership, got them to sign document's confirming it is what it is and it has come to me as GTR as it should be with the 2600cc


----------



## AWC (Mar 2, 2014)

goghat said:


> Mine is 18 years old, and has zero rust, they are out there, but they won't be cheap, I'm thinking of letting mine go, but I would want big money for it, because of the spec and condition, good luck to the op in his search.


What sort of figure are you looking at on yours. Ours is 95 m reg, mint condition apart from a couple of interior aspects (handbrake cover) etc.

She runs nice, same engine, lovely white gtr33 with no interior wind noises, no rust & has been to 170mph without a problem. Would love to know what sort of price to be asking if someone was interested please.

@ thread owner, looks a great car, look after her


----------

