# Skyline Reliability: R32 vs. R33 vs. R34



## JacktheLad (Jan 2, 2012)

Hello all :thumbsup:

I'm considering jumping into the Skyline scene after owning a Toyota Soarer (2.5 RWD twin turbo, parallel) and a Toyota Supra (3.0 twin turbo, sequential setup).

My experience with the Toyotas is that they were completely trouble free. Both were driven daily through a mixture of A and B roads as well as the odd motorway blast. Both were very gently tuned (exhaust + decat, air filter, front bumper cold air intake, intercooler, boost controller).

Both cars were 1994 mid 50k in terms of mileage, no rust.

I guess what I'm asking is which R, out of the 32, 33 and 34 is reputed to be most reliable and robust? As I said, the Toyotas gave me 0 problems and were used 'properly' on a daily basis, and whilst I can keen to jump into Skyline ownership, I'd like to hear about your experiences and opinions.


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## Sidious (Jul 14, 2006)

They're all generally very reliable, but they're all no spring chickens so it depends on how well they are maintained and if you fit new genuine parts.


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## Jayman (Jun 30, 2012)

Sidious said:


> They're all generally very reliable, but they're all no spring chickens so it depends on how well they are maintained and if you fit new genuine parts.


+1 all depends on its history and if your prepared to treat it right.


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## tyndago (Oct 24, 2002)

R32/R33/R34 are all about the same. The older car that has been beat will see more issues. Early R32's had a narrow oil pump drive which is a little sketchy, but unless you turn big r's not too big of a concern. 

Some basics.

Nissan Skyline GT-R s in the USA Blog: The Real Basics –Nissan Skyline GT-R , R32, R33, R34


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## boosh (Feb 7, 2008)

the main issue i have had with r32 and r33 is the corrosion!!! when buying look at the sills, inner sills, front strut top mounts etc!


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## DazGTR (Dec 5, 2007)

32 suffer from rear arch and rear of cills rot 
33 suffer from front strut top rot which is an mot failure
34 don't know much about these but just check them over thoroughly


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## CSB (Nov 15, 2007)

I think bad 32s are slowly dying off...


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## tonigmr2 (Sep 12, 2002)

R34 rot is sills and strut tops. If the strut tops were rusty I'd be very worried about what lay beneath!

I used an R33GTR daily a few years back, it was fine! Bit thirsty, but if you want my honest opinion I'd say don't tune it and then they are reliable and liveable. Start tweeking stuff like boost and things change, all IMHO.


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## matty32 (Dec 18, 2005)

You wont find anything more reliable than what you currently have, they are pretty much bullet proof, esp for everyday



GTRs - all depend on history, mileage and how they have been serviced.


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## .::TopSky::. (Nov 4, 2010)

The truth is every model has its problems but obviously the BNR34 is of course easier to find in good condition avoiding common problems.

I´ve seen many people buying Skyline GTRs and then upgrading minor things that may cause problems later. Refining the car simply said.


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## gts-tom (Jun 14, 2010)

I think they're all fairly similar to be honest. As has been said rust is the major problem and if your going to run those same sort of "stage 1" mods as your Toyota's then they'll be similar power ratings but with some added grip. As Matty said the 2JZ engine in both formats specifically the later is much more robust than the RB but if not strained too hard then it should be very reliable.


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## matty32 (Dec 18, 2005)

.::TopSky::. said:


> The truth is every model has its problems but obviously the BNR34 is of course easier to find in good condition avoiding common problems.
> 
> I´ve seen many people buying Skyline GTRs and then upgrading minor things that may cause problems later. Refining the car simply said.


thats not always the case

esp in the UK


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## boosh (Feb 7, 2008)

Ive seen some pretty crusty 34's too.


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## nick the tubman (Jun 28, 2006)

yep. 34`s seem to suffer around the boot lid area too. bottom of the rear window.

reliability depends on builder of the engine!


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## infamous_t (Jul 9, 2007)

JacktheLad said:


> As I said, the Toyotas gave me 0 problems and were used 'properly' on a daily basis, and whilst I can keen to jump into Skyline ownership, I'd like to hear about your experiences and opinions.


I've had my 32R for 5 years and put 70K km (150K km overall) on it in that time (daily driven), and had minimal problems.
Keep up regular maintenance and don't thrash when cold and you should get a good life out of it.
If you get one that still has stock 32/33 ceramic turbos, change them out for a new set of garretts (-7s, -9s or -5s) as the OEMs are getting to old and fail to easily.

Expect things to need replacing with age like any other car and buy based on condition, not milage... interior condition is a good indicator of how well the car has been treated.


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

tonigmr2 said:


> R34 rot is sills and strut tops. If the strut tops were rusty I'd be very worried about what lay beneath!
> 
> I used an R33GTR daily a few years back, it was fine! Bit thirsty, but if you want my honest opinion I'd say don't tune it and then they are reliable and liveable. Start tweeking stuff like boost and things change, all IMHO.


Wait, wait, you say that a r34 rot. 

Mine is a R35 is starting to rot as well. 

You guys need undercoating under your car.


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## Deddu (Nov 2, 2012)

"Transfercase - Nissan Automatic Fluid Type D"

i've a question... i've changed all the oil with a RedLine Heavy Shock Proof because the gearbox of my 32gtr had a problems with the 3-4 gears.. 

i'll have some problem in the future to use the redline oil in the transfercase? 
excuse me if this question is OT in this 3d please don't reply me in this case on the post but by pm.. thanks


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## JacktheLad (Jan 2, 2012)

OK so summary so far seems to be:

1. At mild tuning levels, just as reliable as the Toyotas 1JZ / 2JZ
2. All models suffer from rust

#1 I don't mind so much, as I am in the market for a well specced, well maintained car, but #2 really concerns me.


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## SklyaFett (Oct 18, 2005)

The main problem is they were never undersealed. So a few years on uk salty roads really hammers them. I'm restoring a r33 Gtr at the mo, and we have had to cut out both cills, boot floor, drivers floor and strut tops. Cost me £1800 in metal work alone. But to be fair the cills are custom one offs that are twice as thick and we have seam welded the car also. It's having the same paint that goes on the deep sea oil rig bottoms, them painted and then under sealed so it won't rot! Once it's done I'm expecting 30 years of very little shell maintaince. If you buy one well looked after and that's been under sealed when it landed you should have little problem. But check the struts on what ever you buy. 
Jeff


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## enshiu (Aug 20, 2010)

SklyaFett said:


> The main problem is they were never undersealed. So a few years on uk salty roads really hammers them. I'm restoring a r33 Gtr at the mo, and we have had to cut out both cills, boot floor, drivers floor and strut tops. Cost me £1800 in metal work alone. But to be fair the cills are custom one offs that are twice as thick and we have seam welded the car also. It's having the same paint that goes on the deep sea oil rig bottoms, them painted and then under sealed so it won't rot! Once it's done I'm expecting 30 years of very little shell maintaince. If you buy one well looked after and that's been under sealed when it landed you should have little problem. But check the struts on what ever you buy.
> Jeff


+ 5000000 mine is under coated three layers in total.should be ok now. Used some rust converters on rusty spot and works fine.


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## JacktheLad (Jan 2, 2012)

SklyaFett said:


> The main problem is they were never undersealed. So a few years on uk salty roads really hammers them. I'm restoring a r33 Gtr at the mo, and we have had to cut out both cills, boot floor, drivers floor and strut tops. Cost me £1800 in metal work alone. But to be fair the cills are custom one offs that are twice as thick and we have seam welded the car also. It's having the same paint that goes on the deep sea oil rig bottoms, them painted and then under sealed so it won't rot! Once it's done I'm expecting 30 years of very little shell maintaince. If you buy one well looked after and that's been under sealed when it landed you should have little problem. But check the struts on what ever you buy.
> Jeff


Sell me yours once the relevant work is done please


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