# Gt-R driving tips



## Joeshoey (Jul 26, 2007)

Hi,

As this is my first 4x4, first turbo, first powerful car, first LSD, first RWD (getting the picture) car, can anyone give me some tips on how to drive it? I am an advanced driver and am used to driving fast, but with all the electronics on my R33 GT-R I would like to know how to best use it. I use it everyday on A and B roads and have read about people getting "caught out" by the HICAS and other systems. I would say that I am a progressive driver, but I like to avoid upsetting other people on the roads, so I am also patient and will wait for an oppportunity to overtake rather than forcing the issue. A track day is certainly on the cards but for real world driving what do I need to look out for to avoid a er-herm hiccup! 

Has anyone turned up to an IAM meeting in a Skyline and been given any useful advice or is it full of old men with leather driving gloves and flat caps?

What do you advise?

Thanks:thumbsup:


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## Thrust (Jun 8, 2004)

A lot of people lock out the Hicas. The trackday sounds like the best idea. Get a Nissan driver like Andy Middlehurst to give you some pointers. Andy is very smooth and practical, and opened my eyes to how the GTR likes to be driven. I was taken out in a 34 on the other hand by a GT300 driver here in Japan and surprised by how he pre-empted the electronics on the corners. He knew just what the car was going to do and his reflexes with the wheel and brakes were a split second faster. Made for a jerky ride, but he was getting fast times.

Personally I find that Nissan have built the car around fallible humans, to drive for you. Thousands of people have put their thoughts into this. Rather than being a dangerously powerful car, it is conversely surprisingly safe and managable, and will deal with whatever you throw at it. 

The trackday... for you to find its limits for you, though!  :thumbsup:

(Spoken as the owner of a 33 and a 34)


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## kismetcapitan (Nov 25, 2005)

Lock out the HICAS, it won't do you any favors if you're used to controlling the rear end with technique.

The computer controlled 4WD is usually a good thing, but you can still get the tail wide in a corner. Don't lift! Adding power to what feels like a spinout allows the front wheels to engage and magically straighten out the car. Lifting will have you in a 180 or more very quickly.


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## mifn21 (Mar 19, 2007)

kismetcapitan said:


> Lock out the HICAS, it won't do you any favors if you're used to controlling the rear end with technique.
> 
> The computer controlled 4WD is usually a good thing, but you can still get the tail wide in a corner. Don't lift! Adding power to what feels like a spinout allows the front wheels to engage and magically straighten out the car. Lifting will have you in a 180 or more very quickly.


How does the HICAS act compared to getting the tail out in a normal RWD car? I'm trying to decide whether to junk it when my car gets here, but I don't really want to find out the hard way whether or not I should keep it :chuckle:


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## kismetcapitan (Nov 25, 2005)

I don't know exactly what it does, that's why!! sometimes it kicks in and you can feel it controlling the tail a bit, sometimes it doesn't. The problem is in not knowing when it will kick in or how much.

I think some members have kept theirs, but a majority have dumped the system. I think it's no accident that Nissan has dropped HICAS from the GT-R. There's also the reduction in complexity - lots of things to rip out of the car. Simpler is better.


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## hodgie (Oct 23, 2003)

Joeshoey said:


> Hi,
> 
> As this is my first 4x4, first turbo, first powerful car, first LSD, first RWD (getting the picture) car, can anyone give me some tips on how to drive it? I am an advanced driver and am used to driving fast, but with all the electronics on my R33 GT-R I would like to know how to best use it. I use it everyday on A and B roads and have read about people getting "caught out" by the HICAS and other systems. I would say that I am a progressive driver, but I like to avoid upsetting other people on the roads, so I am also patient and will wait for an oppportunity to overtake rather than forcing the issue. A track day is certainly on the cards but for real world driving what do I need to look out for to avoid a er-herm hiccup!
> 
> ...


I would just recommend going out and driving the car. If you want to join the owners club, we have driver training days at Millbrook which are very good as you`ll never be able to learn how to drive the car to the full on public roads.
And i wouldn`t worry to much about locking or switching things off until you`ve driven the car for a while and see if you enjoy it the way that it is.
They are very easy cars to drive, they`re just a little faster than some other cars.


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## moleman (Jun 3, 2002)

kismetcapitan said:


> I think some members have kept theirs, but a majority have dumped the system.


I'd say the reverse is true.

HICAS is a love or hate thing. The first time you feel it, you'll think the car is starting to oversteer. As long as you don't overreact you'll be fine. 

As Hodgie says, go to a track or join the club and attend one of the excellent CATDT days at Millbrook or training days at North Weald.

The club do loads of track days too. We're off to Cadwell park on Friday.


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## Steve (Sep 21, 2001)

I'll be at Castle Ccombe on the 19th April if your around ? & Yes, keep the Hicas !


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## Rbentley (Dec 17, 2007)

I lost my R33 GTR on a slightly wet corner at about 30-35mph on my first drive. Usual correction and lifting off ended up with me putting the rear into a barrier.
I was very confused as I bought the car cos of the four wheel braking/steering/power etc. so thought I'd be very safe.

I will also be looking for advice/practise.

Thanks Kismetcapitan. This has already become a useful thread for me.


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## GarethK (Aug 29, 2004)

Applying opposite lock and lifting off in any RWD (Or part-time RWD!) car will put you into trouble.

Unfortunately the Skyline has this image of being 'computer controlled', 'designed by the playstation generation' and all of that other BS, when in fact it is a high powered, largely RWD car which has some clever systems which can help you go faster point to point, but nothing in the way of 'Stability control' rescue systems as fitted to some new cars.

When you're ready, learning how to use the torque split to launch out of a bend, foot to the floor with a slight drift is the best part of these cars I reckon!


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## TJW964 (Dec 21, 2007)

I took off the Hicas before I had really used the car cos I wanted to know what was me and what was the car. Agree that you cannot lift off when it goes wrong in a corner, or break or answer the mobile phone, all common sense really. However, I don't agree about the opposite lock as that is and always has been the way to correct oversteer. 

Try it on a track. I did. Also do a day with people like Hodgie and he'll show you what a car can do, R32 or R34. 

IAM will hep with insurance and road technique not car specific techniques. Turn up in whatever you like, they don't care. It is all about how you look out for things, control the car and driving styles. Speed is not really the issue, more about managing things correctly.


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## ru' (Feb 18, 2007)

You won't learn much, but it may help watching this:

YouTube - r33 gtr attacking nurburgring

Application of 'opposite lock' is possibly less than you would expect from a rwd car but is still used.


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## hodgie (Oct 23, 2003)

TJW964 said:


> Try it on a track. I did. Also do a day with people like Hodgie and he'll show you what a car can do, R32 or R34.
> 
> .


opcorn: :chuckle: 

We all spend money making our cars faster, but i cant stress enough, put thatmoney into driving lessons and you`ll be so much faster and safer.


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## Zabijak (Jul 9, 2007)

My first car ever was and is a R32 GT-R.
Just relax and get to know it


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## Joeshoey (Jul 26, 2007)

Thanks for the advice. Not used to such a busy forum!

Hodgie - expect a GTROC application after the 20th. I put all my savings into buying the car and then had to borrow off of SWMBO to pay for the first months insurance As soon as I get paid, I'll stump up

Can't do the 19th Steve, but thanks for the offer.


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## MartinC (Jan 1, 2006)

As said above drive the car and feel what it does and when it does it. The best feeling is knowing what the car will do and driving WITH it.

Track days are the best for this so get yourself booked on one asap.


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## markM3 (Jan 7, 2008)

"Applying opposite lock and lifting off in any RWD (Or part-time RWD!) car will put you into trouble."

Why? The back end in a RWD car loses traction and swings out under power (unless down to an over enthusiastic entry speed) - cutting the power or reducing it will regain traction causing the tyre to grip again - as long as you remove the opposite lock quickly you will not fishtail.

If you keep the power on, you can maintain the slide if you have enough room.

Skyline is different to most RWD cars in that it will apply power to the front wheels if traction is lost, hence I can understand keeping the power on.

Cheers,


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## hodgie (Oct 23, 2003)

markM3 said:


> Skyline is different to most RWD cars in that it will apply power to the front wheels if traction is lost, hence I can understand keeping the power on.
> 
> Cheers,


Only when your going in a straight line though. As soon as you start to turn the wheel the system starts to go back to rear wheel drive. This is why we all need proper high speed driving lessons where you learn the basics all over again, like always braking in a straight line not in the corners.


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## moleman (Jun 3, 2002)

markM3 said:


> Skyline is different to most RWD cars in that it will apply power to the front wheels if traction is lost


...but only up to about 10 degrees or lock or so. Past that and you're purely RWD.


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## simplymo (Mar 25, 2006)

hodgie said:


> Only when your going in a straight line though. As soon as you start to turn the wheel the system starts to go back to rear wheel drive. This is why we all need proper high speed driving lessons where you learn the basics all over again, like always braking in a straight line not in the corners.





a lesson i learnt at Millbrook.....


when a member get yourself on one of those lessons....its all good going around the track, but it can sometimes get a bit busy for you to "play/test" the car, or maybe thats just me...lol


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## Eikichi (Jul 25, 2006)

Unplugged HICAS on my gts25t because last Xmas on a straight line in France at 90km/h, the rear started moving left-right (apparently caused by a water leak from the rear windscreen washer into the fusebox in the boot)... :nervous: Didn't want this to happen on the motorway.


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## DaveV (Feb 27, 2007)

The 'don't let off the throttle' rule is a dangerous one to drive by as it only applies in certain circumstances

If you are cornering with a lot of speed and some throttle, letting off the gas abruptly or braking will very likely loose you rear traction and cause a spin (lift-off oversteer), a small amount of throttle may regain balance

If you are turning at moderate speed with enough throttle to start the back swinging under power (A powerslide) then backing off will more likely snap the car back into line with no ill effects.

I'd say most times very gently backing off will be the safest action.

You really need to learn this stuff on a track though so you have time to experiment and feel the car


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## kismetcapitan (Nov 25, 2005)

I never even gave HICAS a chance in my car - had it in my Z32 TT and had the tail wag too many times to ever want to deal with it again.


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## skyline69_uk (Jan 6, 2005)

DaveV said:


> The 'don't let off the throttle' rule is a dangerous one to drive by as it only applies in certain circumstances
> 
> If you are cornering with a lot of speed and some throttle, letting off the gas abruptly or braking will very likely loose you rear traction and cause a spin (lift-off oversteer), a small amount of throttle may regain balance
> 
> ...


Correct, in RWD cars it's all about feel at the limit, some times a small backing off works and other times applying a bit more power works. I drove FWD for a long time and had runs in perm 4WD and they basically feel very like each other at the limit (nearly always understeer but can provoke lift-off oversteer) but RWD is a different story and the GT-R a unique system that you will have to learn. Fortunately it is not a really dangerous car like a TVR or old school 911 and unless you are being a complete Muppet it is very difficult to lose all control over it totally.


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## SteveC (Jul 2, 2001)

just hold off the mods until you are happy with it, and then as the car develops you will you.

remember the car IS faster and better than you are and you will have a long and happy association with it.

and do track days/airfield days as much as you can.

have fun
Steve


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## frostmotorsport (Aug 10, 2007)

You have to admit tho - the GTR is a very different beast to drive. I've owned Evo's (still do) and Suby's (pffft) - their 4WD is 'permanent' so to speak - so there is always drive to the front wheels. But my 33 is an odd beast - it has HICAS still, but it seems that the 'computer' will let you get to some quite extreme angles before pushing torque to the front wheels...

curious about the 10deg steering angle comments tho. Is this fact or urban myth? If it's fact, then mine must be unique cos it's pulled out of some pretty hairy slides....  i mean, across 3 lanes of motorway in the wet, almost on the lock-stops type slides! :GrowUp:


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## moleman (Jun 3, 2002)

frostmotorsport said:


> curious about the 10deg steering angle comments tho. Is this fact or urban myth?


It's fact. Past 10 degrees or so the car dials out the front torque so that you are driving a rear wheel drive car in hard turns.


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## Sidious (Jul 14, 2006)

I treat the GT-R like a RWD car, modulate the throttle to maintain speed mid corner and then gradually apply full throttle when the nose is tucked in for exit. When you see professional drivers race around in a road going GT-R you see they dont plant the thottle down mid bend like you would in a later EVO would.

For very sharp corners, hairpins and roundabouts, the RWD character of the GT-R will be beneficial, you'd want a slight rear end break away for best speed and to stay tight in the corner, whereas a primative full time 4WD car (early Imprezas, etc) will suffer massive push under.


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## SteveC (Jul 2, 2001)

people on this thread are getiing atessa and hicass mixed up.
hicass is the rear wheel steer which moves the wheels 1 degree each way IIRC.

initially it turns the opposite way to the fronts to speed up turn in and then it gives a little twitch the other way when applying power after the wheels are straight again to counter oversteer.

Atessa is the 4wd system which can put up to 50% of the torque to the front. it monitors angle of attack and slip on the rear wheels.

sorry about the sucking eggs to those who know but some on here clearly don't. 

Cheers
steve


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## TJW964 (Dec 21, 2007)

Why has noone mentioned understeer?
In the wet, or snow, etc. it is quite easy to get understeer. 
How does the argument/discussion go now guys?

(My money is with Hodgie, brake enough before the corner).
What about you?


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## NISFAN (Oct 11, 2003)

Due to the iron block, most of the handling traits are FR typical to the extreme. (poor FR weight distribution)
The additional front axle drag doesn't help with understeer, hence the 'odd' (compromised) AWD programming to keep it on the straight and narrow.
You end up with a car sitting on a knife edge between Understeer/Oversteer, often going from one to the other several times in each corner. (All on the limit of course). 
Slow for corners on the road and use the good straight line grip to get you moving again, works well.


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## Joeshoey (Jul 26, 2007)

:bowdown1: to everyone who has given advice. I really appreciate it.:thumbsup: 

Can I pick your brains a bit more? How do you use the gauges on the dash and how often do you use them?

And I might be setting myself up for a slating, but I don't know the answer and won't know till I ask................... The boost pressure gauge goes from -7 to +7 mmHg. From memory of A level Chemistry wasn't atmospheric pressure 768mmHg? So does that mean that on +7 it is just under one atmosphere of boost and if so what does -7 mean?


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## kismetcapitan (Nov 25, 2005)

while REALLY flogging it, I don't use the gauges at all. I can't even see the extra gauges stuck on top of the dash. I judge RPM by sound, and have my hands full with just the driving alone.

+7 on the gauge is about 0.7bar boost, which is what the stock car is set up for. The car should hover near -0.5~0.7 bar during idle, depends on what turbos.


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## TJW964 (Dec 21, 2007)

I've been warned off changing down at high revs. For example, from third to second at high revs in third, cos it will blow the engine on some models, especially the earlier ones and non V Spec. 

I keep an eye on oil temp but rarely when driving hard on a circuit do I have time or inclination to look at anything else. As above, I watch the revs closely and listen to the car and try to feel what is going on.


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## Mookistar (Feb 5, 2004)

Joe

I coordinate driving training days for the GTROC and there are a few events you'll do well to attend. Easily the most accesable of these are the North Weald activity days.

For about £55 you bring your car to an airfeild along with 20 or so other owners, and are asked to put your car through a series of "tests" including a slalom, short circuit, and most important, a High speed bend (circa 80-90mph)

THIS alone will teach you all about how the GTR handles, when to power on and off and how to corner quickly and safely.

We have such a day coming up on 5th June, but it's members only.

Do little search and you'll find som vids

Mook


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## moleman (Jun 3, 2002)

TJW964 said:


> I've been warned off changing down at high revs. For example, from third to second at high revs in third, cos it will blow the engine on some models, especially the earlier ones and non V Spec.


Worth noting Trevor, lift before the jump at Flugplatz. If you go over under power and the revs spike you may well loose your engine.


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## SteveC (Jul 2, 2001)

Joeshoey said:


> :bowdown1The boost pressure gauge goes from -7 to +7 mmHg. From memory of A level Chemistry wasn't atmospheric pressure 768mmHg? So does that mean that on +7 it is just under one atmosphere of boost and if so what does -7 mean?



I think the -7 to 0 part of a boost gauge is in mm/HG the 0 to +7 is in bar.

I used to use the oil temp/ pressure gauges so I knew when I could have fun.
don't go on the water temp, as you know you can have nice hot air coming from the blowers and a nice temp on the water gauge and the oil temp is still well down.

oil pressure gauge can act as a back up to the temp as the oil goes thinner when the engine is warm. Also it gives you an idea of when the oil is cooked and needs changing, but hopefully you will never see this as you'll be servicing it regularly..

if the 4wd torque gauge is constantly skipping about then this could be a sign of uneven tyre wear front to rear, as the ecu for atessa uses wheel speed sensors and if the fronts are more worn the the rears or vice versa this can give the ecu the impression you are spinning the wheels as the worn tyres rotate faster than the unworn,due to rolling radius being smaller. People tend to change all 4 tyres at once and rotate them front to rear on a regular basis to keep wear even.

remember the std gauges are not super accurate but they are better than nothing.

have fun
steve


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## ru' (Feb 18, 2007)

TJW964 said:


> I've been warned off changing down at high revs. For example, from third to second at high revs in third, cos it will blow the engine on some models...


Eh? Am I missing something here, or isn't this totally obvious and affects all cars? Downchanging at high revs means the lower gear then has really high revs which the rev limiter obviously can't deal with. This will not be good on any car.

Sorry to be blunt! 

ps to the OP, negative 'boost' is a vacuum.


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## markM3 (Jan 7, 2008)

BNR32 on Nurburgring

Not being an expert on R32 on Skylines, I thought it odd that the power doesn't get tranferred to the front wheels on the steering (or is is wheel angle) is past 10 degrees.

Don't want to insult anyone, but if you look at the attached vid aboe, the dial appears to show power transmitted to the front wheels at quite big steering angles when power is applied (not very scientific I know, but seems silly if Nissan didn't engineer it that way to pull you out of bends).

Cheers,


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## hodgie (Oct 23, 2003)

Nissan weren`t always honest about the GTR`s performance figures around the ring. You can buy, as most of us already have, torque split controllers to override the system. And it is fact about the 10 degree as there are quite a few of us who have done trackdays with Andy Middlehurst as an instructor.


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## gavman (Apr 12, 2006)

Rbentley said:


> I lost my R33 GTR on a slightly wet corner at about 30-35mph on my first drive. Usual correction and lifting off ended up with me putting the rear into a barrier.
> I was very confused as I bought the car cos of the four wheel braking/steering/power etc. so thought I'd be very safe.
> 
> I will also be looking for advice/practise.


the four wheel drive system can only help if you're putting drive through the wheels, ie you're on the power
if you lift completely you aren't giving the system anything to work with, so the car is no longer four wheel drive, therefore the attesa system can't help you

once the tail begins to come round correct with the steering and feather the throttle slightly, but if the slide isn't too bad you will hardly need to lift at all

also fitting a decent rear diff (eg OS Giken) will make the car much easier to handle when sliding, as will progressive tyres such as Falken f452's

but the main technique in any four wheel drive car is not to lift once you're comitted to a corner, so don't enter the corner too fast to begin with

and rip out the hicas; it's a worse than useless gimmick that will frustrate any capable driver, and the car is literally a million times better without it.
why would you want an additional random steering input from the rear when you already have the car finely balanced?

i was worried that there would be some hidden cost to junking the hicas, but honestly it's a win win situation

remember
1 all racing teams disable the hicas
2 nissan have junked it for the new gtr

'nuff said


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## gavman (Apr 12, 2006)

mifn21 said:


> How does the HICAS act compared to getting the tail out in a normal RWD car? I'm trying to decide whether to junk it when my car gets here, but I don't really want to find out the hard way whether or not I should keep it :chuckle:


junk it

it gets in the way, and makes the car's behaviour less predictable

there are no downsides to junking it, and on the plus side you get to strip lots of weight from the car


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## TJW964 (Dec 21, 2007)

*Not too obvious ...*



ru' said:


> Eh? Am I missing something here, or isn't this totally obvious and affects all cars? Downchanging at high revs means the lower gear then has really high revs which the rev limiter obviously can't deal with. This will not be good on any car.
> 
> Sorry to be blunt!


Agreed, but in the Porsche I use the engine lots to control speed, etc. In the Skyline I make sure my speed/revs are much lower before changing down and am not as blunt as I am or can be in the 911.


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## TJW964 (Dec 21, 2007)

*Flugplatz to you also ..*



moleman said:


> Worth noting Trevor, lift before the jump at Flugplatz. If you go over under power and the revs spike you may well loose your engine.


Will do. Easy to see how that could happen. Usually Flugplatz at a fair speed in a single radius and love the run up the hill, sharp dab of the brakes, often with a little lock up (not too much though).


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## frostmotorsport (Aug 10, 2007)

*opp lock sliding*

mmmm. have to concede something. GTR not the world's best 4WD system! Passing a people mover this morning, power on in 2nd gear (damp road) = big sideways - had to make very quick steering correction and get right off the throttle (quite low speed mind - and was _trying_ to go in a straight line!!) 

however, I would not recommend this action in a corner!!


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## aferx (Oct 4, 2005)

Same thing happend to me was passing a very long truck that was indicating into my lane. Had to put my foot down to pass it back end was wiggiling like a snake but kept my foot down then the front front touqe kicked in and corrected me road was damp ass well.
you should of just kept your foot down


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## R33_GTS-t (Apr 27, 2005)

kismetcapitan said:


> Lock out the HICAS


Ding, ding! 10 points.


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## frostmotorsport (Aug 10, 2007)

aferx said:


> you should of just kept your foot down


err, prob not - she was well past 10deg of steering at this point!! normally I would have.


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## gavman (Apr 12, 2006)

ru' said:


> Eh? Am I missing something here, or isn't this totally obvious and affects all cars? Downchanging at high revs means the lower gear then has really high revs which the rev limiter obviously can't deal with. This will not be good on any car.
> 
> Sorry to be blunt!


my thoughts exactly!


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## BJohnson (Mar 24, 2003)

TJW964 said:


> I've been warned off changing down at high revs. For example, from third to second at high revs in third, cos it will blow the engine on some models, especially the earlier ones and non V Spec.
> 
> Or even better, change down from fourth to second at over 100mph. I tried it accidently at Aintree and I don't recommend it.


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## GarethK (Aug 29, 2004)

I didn't mean to give any 'rule' about driving a GTR, or any other car, but by far the most common way of stuffing a RWD car is to floor it, slide, panic, lift off and opposite lock - smashing you into the kerb / wall / other car or whatever on the outside of the bend. As has been said you need to drive the car at and beyond it's / your limits in a 'safe' environment until you can react instinctively when it gets out of shape.


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## Light-R (Apr 23, 2007)

Sidious said:


> I When you see professional drivers race around in a road going GT-R you see they dont plant the thottle down mid bend like you would in a later EVO would.


so true.
in the thread i started under skyline general chit chat, i didnt mention, that one of the cars was a modded evo 8, and it felt really neutral.


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## Light-R (Apr 23, 2007)

kismetcapitan said:


> while REALLY flogging it, I don't use the gauges at all. I can't even see the extra gauges stuck on top of the dash. I judge RPM by sound, and have my hands full with just the driving alone.


also, very familiar attitude


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## tomek (Apr 4, 2008)

Have done a few track days now and the more then common hill run, Have progressed unbelievably... Some rules I have compiled and put in MY gtr gospel..

-Make sure the car is up to the task at hand! Brakes are at firction, critical temps, tires are healthy and warm.. It's not a touring car you won't be able to keep performing at 100% lap after lap. When driving always leave room for error I stick to the 80-90% rule :chairshot 

-Once you commit the power into the turn DON'T let go, use the throttle to your advantage adjusting the cornering lines trajectory with your feet rather then hands

-understeer is easily enough corrected with power or smooth lift off/ brake (prefer the power :chuckle.. unless your going warp speed then your screwed  slower in faster out. 

-Many people turn in too early and are then forced to tighten up the corner on exit. Make the corner as open as possible, you will carry more speed and reduce tire scrub ultimately spending the least amount of time in that corner.

-Brake in a straight line, my car has hicas (removing in the future) I find that the car wiggles under hard braking from the weight transfer. Do not trail brake unless you REALLY know the car, if you are forced to trail brake get back onto throttle gently asap to transfer the weight back into the rear. 

-When linking turns be smooth, give the attessa time to work and keep the weight balance as neutral as possible keeping the car flat, power on/ brake progressively. When possible use the transfer to get out of sticky situations . Weight transfer in my opinion is very over looked! Try strapping yourself into a 4 point harness and attack the twisties, it's much easier to feel what the car is doing and where the weight is going as your are basically moulded into the fixed seat.

-Use the right gear! If you max the gear mid corner don't change (you dip the clutch, car goes from max power to 0 for a split second when grabbing the next gear. Brutal way to unbalance the car)



and lastly something I didn't do which you are doing atm.. Well done! Is learn the car.. Know what the car is, how it puts power down, brakes, turns, any tendencies it has... The simple basics.. 

Now.. Im sorry for dribbling on for so long guys... I hope this helps someone it's definately been a learning process for me and I duly note my discoveries 




frostmotorsport said:


> curious about the 10deg steering angle comments tho. Is this fact or urban myth? If it's fact, then mine must be unique cos it's pulled out of some pretty hairy slides....  i mean, across 3 lanes of motorway in the wet, almost on the lock-stops type slides! :GrowUp:


The way I see it.. or I have experienced it.. 

Your coming into the corner, power on too hard by accident back steps out... back keeps stepping out.. Now if your correctly steering the car into the turn with power, at one point of the turn the inertia and degree of the body will get into the 10 degree (I think this degree would vary) and the car will initiate torque transfer to the front and presto your powering out of the corner...


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## JP_Tuner (May 6, 2004)

tomek said:


> Have done a few track days now and the more then common hill run, Have progressed unbelievably... Some rules I have compiled and put in MY gtr gospel..
> 
> -Make sure the car is up to the task at hand! Brakes are at firction, critical temps, tires are healthy and warm.. It's not a touring car you won't be able to keep performing at 100% lap after lap. When driving always leave room for error I stick to the 80-90% rule :chairshot
> 
> ...





Nice write up!!


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## Light-R (Apr 23, 2007)

x2

it will definitely help me tomorrow.

thanks tomek


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## frostmotorsport (Aug 10, 2007)

indeed, a good write up Tomek. regarding the 10 degrees, I agree with your comment. I wish I could spend some time on a circuit or somewhere open and safe away from the public (and preferably in the wet!) to try it and see how it really behaves.

The scariest thing that has happened to me is the back stepping out under brakes - I wonder now if it was the HICAS getting upset with me, or merely some oil or something on the road..... only happened once and hasn't happened since!


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## StretchGSK (Oct 24, 2006)

Thanks. that is the sort of advice I was looking for as well.


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## xaero1 (Feb 9, 2004)

*GTR driving tips*

Keep your steering wheel pointing in the direction you want to go and your right foot down, even if you end up with your back end overtaking you. 

Hope that helps


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## chaz_r33_gtr (Aug 6, 2005)

Just a quick pointer the boost guage which shows mmHg. 

+7mmHg is actually 1bar of boost so on a standard car should be only just over half way up the guage i.e 0.7bar. When i got my car I thought it was fooked and i was getting hardly any boost until i realised this!

-0.7mmhG is measuring vaccum i.e. when not on boost.


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## hodgie (Oct 23, 2003)

frostmotorsport said:


> .
> 
> The scariest thing that has happened to me is the back stepping out under brakes - I wonder now if it was the HICAS getting upset with me, or merely some oil or something on the road..... only happened once and hasn't happened since!


This is why everyone needs proper high speed driving lessons, its not the HICAS, when your braking at speed you must keep the steering wheel and wheels in a straight line, the back will only step out if your braking heavily in a corner which is the wrong way to drive and also quite dangerous.


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## frostmotorsport (Aug 10, 2007)

hodgie said:


> This is why everyone needs proper high speed driving lessons, its not the HICAS, when your braking at speed you must keep the steering wheel and wheels in a straight line, the back will only step out if your braking heavily in a corner which is the wrong way to drive and also quite dangerous.


ok. I wasn't braking heavily. it was wet. I know how to brake :thumbsup: been driving 4wd turbo rally cars for 10 years now, so I know a bit about driving  so as I said, if not the HICAS, then it must have been something on the road. or GTR's are rubbish @ handling. And let's be honest, a stock Evo or WRX would run rings around _most_ GTR's point to point. 

I know, I've had both. but my GTR is still the _coolest_ car I've ever owned!


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## tomek (Apr 4, 2008)

Too many variables could of been off camber, patch of shit.. anything really.. the force you brake at will also play out.. So many variables to know before just saying "your braking wrong"


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## Joeshoey (Jul 26, 2007)

Just an update. Hope it's not taken as dragging up an old thread. Thanks for your input Tomek, I'll bear that in mind.

Mookistar and Hodgie - I'm still getting my car up to a state where I am confident that everything is working properly before I push it on a track or advanced driving lessons. Really wanted to come along to the Silverstone track day but left it too late and had other things take up my time/money. Next step is full Abbey service and dyno time and then, if all goes well, track day in October/November time.

I'm gradually getting to grips with this car. Everyone has said it has shit tyres on it and I think I may have been a victim of that yesterday:

I had just got the engine up to temperature and was at some traffic lights on a big roundabout. It wasn't raining, but had only just stopped so the road was wet. The lights went green, I build up a few revs and launched - not a usual method of leaving traffic lights for me normally I'm more sedate, but what the hell you've got to have some fun now and again! I came off the roundabout at the first exit and the road immediately sloped down a bit (which made the car lighter). I thought I was lined up for the long dual carriageway ahead and fed the power in a bit (not stamped, fed) and the back end slewed to the right quite a bit. I relaxed my grip on the steering wheel and steered into the slide, eased the throttle a tiny bit and the back end slewed to the left a little passed centre and then straightened up. A quick check of the mirror to make sure everyone had seen it and I carried on. A quick glance at the torque meter showed it was at 50% to the front.

So. I know you weren't there, but what do you think? Did I bottle it too early and should have kept the throttle at the same place? Should I have increased the throttle? Did I get away with it? Did I do the right thing and should carry on looking sideways out my car windows?


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## n boost (Jun 13, 2008)

Personally i would have kept it nailed unless the angle was very extreme and you had cars around u. What u did was what u would probably do in a rwd car without the torque split.
Myself coming out of 10 yrs of rwd cars had to try and get used to keeping the power on instead of easing off the throttle which takes practice. 
I think the gtr is a quite easy to drive as i am starting to get grips with it and feeling more confident as time goes on.
I am stilll deciding if i should junk the hicas as it has nearly caught me out twice.


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## tomek (Apr 4, 2008)

I think you did well mate.. 

No one was there to see it to give you a hands on report.. But from driving my R I have noticed that sometimes the Attessa system is not quicken enough to respond to your situation (specially 32)....Cambered corners, sudden back end motion coupled with lots of gas. 

You should always be confident behind the wheel, keep driving and physically noting what you learn or how you did something.. 


I wouldn't mind seeing this thread progressing.


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