# Anyone running 900-1000hp & 800ftlb?



## AVBR35 (Jun 27, 2020)

Hi
Does anyone have a LM1000 or JM1000 or similar? I have decided to go for the plunge and early next year upgrade my 4.25 to somewhere around 900-1000hp with 800ftlb (enough ooomph to spank a stage 2 M5 F90 ) . My question is what sort of performance difference is there between say 700ftlb and 800ftlb at this level of HP?

Thanks.


----------



## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

You best prepare yourself for a big bill.


----------



## dudersvr (May 7, 2003)

AVBR35 said:


> Hi
> Does anyone have a LM1000 or JM1000 or similar? I have decided to go for the plunge and early next year upgrade my 4.25 to somewhere around 900-1000hp with 800ftlb (enough ooomph to spank a stage 2 M5 F90 ) . My question is what sort of performance difference is there between say 700ftlb and 800ftlb at this level of HP?
> 
> Thanks.


Its more a case of how much can you put to the road, the difference in 100ft lbs of torque is very noticeable.


----------



## DocT (Dec 17, 2014)

I went from a stage 4.25 to 1100 bhp and 870 ft/lb and the it's a considerable difference. The relative tractability and in gear pull is impressive. A 4.25 isn't exactly a slow car but the upgrade is noticeably faster.


----------



## archan (Apr 25, 2019)

I'd say it's a significant performance difference. Is there any reason why you consider 700 ft/lb? 
Think both numbers require fully built trans.


----------



## scoooby slayer (Jun 13, 2009)

I presume your reasoning is 700 lbft won't require new gears in the gr6 whereas 800 lbft will. 
I've got one at 730 lbft and another at 1000 lbft and with r888 tyres there is a huge difference in the level of grip, 730 lbft puts it all down with relative ease but 1000 lbft is a struggle 
Really hinges on what you want from the car and how big your wallet is, personally I can't see much point going to the expense of a built box just to run 800 lbft, I'd either go 900 lbft on a Built box or 700ish on stock gears with a capped boost curve to keep torque below 730 but still make your 1000 hp target higher up in the rpm range


----------



## Reano (Oct 1, 2015)

Currently goIng for What I will call my Swansong GTR on a MY17, currently LM 4.25. Everything is being upgraded will update when done which should be in a few weeks. However I’m not going for a massive turbo just stage 4 IHI (Maximum response track/fast road as I wont be living in the high RPM band for the majority of my driving). Being done by SVM but it includes suspension, transmission/gears, engine, interior, audio, practical weight reduction, brakes, induction, cooling, fuelling, etc. They have posted a few pictures on their facebook site.

Scooby Slayer for your car with 1000 lb/ft what is the transmission/gear spec?


----------



## scoooby slayer (Jun 13, 2009)

Gearbox
PPG V3 1-6GEARS
INPUT AND OUTPUT SHAFTS UPRATED
REAR DSS AXLE STUB KIT
EXTREME 20 PLATE CLUTCH
LINNEY DROP GEARS
BILLET GEARBOX FORKS
ALBINS SYCRO RINGS
LINNEY ETS carbon PLATES
DIFF BRACE BOX
MY17 BELLHOUSING
MY17 PLATE

This one is JM built, my 730 lbft car is svm built


----------



## TalibGTR (Jul 3, 2017)

Can you run 700lbft on the stock box? I’m probably wrong, but I thought 640lbft was the limit. I know Litchfields cap at 620-30lbft. 




scoooby slayer said:


> I presume your reasoning is 700 lbft won't require new gears in the gr6 whereas 800 lbft will.
> I've got one at 730 lbft and another at 1000 lbft and with r888 tyres there is a huge difference in the level of grip, 730 lbft puts it all down with relative ease but 1000 lbft is a struggle
> Really hinges on what you want from the car and how big your wallet is, personally I can't see much point going to the expense of a built box just to run 800 lbft, I'd either go 900 lbft on a Built box or 700ish on stock gears with a capped boost curve to keep torque below 730 but still make your 1000 hp target higher up in the rpm range


----------



## scoooby slayer (Jun 13, 2009)

TalibGTR said:


> Can you run 700lbft on the stock box? I’m probably wrong, but I thought 640lbft was the limit. I know Litchfields cap at 620-30lbft.



All I can tell you is this built by svm about 7 years ago 
840 crank hp on petrol 730 lbft crank dyno plot below 










On hub dyno on ethanol makes 928 hub hp 1000 nm hub torque 
I've never drag raced it only rolling racing but loads of hard use no issues at all with this gearbox spec by svm 
I do have Dyna pack plots for petrol and ethanol runs but I can't find them yet it's 6 years ago I bought the car 

Svm heat treated and superfinished gear set
Svm/GTC 16*Plate*Clutch*kit
Modified Baskets with Weld fix
Dodson gearbox circlips
Dodson drive locks
Dodson oil magnets
Titek diff brace


----------



## scoooby slayer (Jun 13, 2009)

Managed to find my old dynoplots in photobucket account 

Petrol 1.5 bar and e50 1.8 bar turbos flat out power flatlined approx 960 crank hp


----------



## AVBR35 (Jun 27, 2020)

Thanks for your replies guys, I know it won't be cheap but I am prepared to go to about 40k (including some decent brakes too) I have a real thing for being quicker than mildly tuned 4 door saloons and the new M5 comp with a stage 2 has made me want to up my game 

DocT
Wow those are some nice figures, thats the sort of thing I really want to feel is in gear pull but still have the car drivable

Archan
I was thinking of the possibility of running 700 on stock gearing but I know its a gamble.

Scrooby slayer
Yes exactly that mate, like yourself my friend ran 700ftlb for years on stock gearing and had no problem. I then thought 800ftlb as I have heard a few people say this is the upper limit without making the car a total handful (I realise this is all subjective to drivers ability and conditions)
Do you find your higher power R35 that less drivable than your other one?
I guess what I want is a very fast street car which is going to pull on 850hp "super saloons" but ist going to be undrivable most of the time (if thats possible)
Lovely build BTW

Reano
Nice, I would like to hear a little more when you have that done mate 👍 

Cheers


----------



## DocT (Dec 17, 2014)

What I told Iain was the same as you, driveability as well as hypercar performance. He advised a 4.6 with EFR 7663 and no regrets so far.

I’m sure it can run more power but I live in the sticks with 97 RON being the most accessible so it’s running a pretty safe tune and if I want to go nuts in the future I guess I could push it even further.


----------



## scoooby slayer (Jun 13, 2009)

AVBR35 said:


> Thanks for your replies guys, I know it won't be cheap but I am prepared to go to about 40k (including some decent brakes too) I have a real thing for being quicker than mildly tuned 4 door saloons and the new M5 comp with a stage 2 has made me want to up my game
> 
> DocT
> Wow those are some nice figures, thats the sort of thing I really want to feel is in gear pull but still have the car drivable
> ...



It's not undriveavble, my lower power car does 100-200 kph in 4.3 seconds best of several runs 

Have done one pull in my race car 100-200 kph in 3.14 seconds so far but spinning in that pull aswell so will go quicker still with more grip and a higher percentage of ethanol in the tank 

Yes it's nowhere near as responsive as my road gtr but that's what a gearbox and high revs are for, has to be kept above 5500 rpm for full power 

If I ever need to sell one it will be my 960 hp one no question


----------



## AVBR35 (Jun 27, 2020)

Thanks Guys... this has given me some food for thought.
Ideally I'd like a car that could do 10 dead in the quarter and very low 4s in the 100-200kph but still drives well as a daily... I will do some more researching 👍


----------



## scoooby slayer (Jun 13, 2009)

AVBR35 said:


> Thanks Guys... this has given me some food for thought.
> Ideally I'd like a car that could do 10 dead in the quarter and very low 4s in the 100-200kph but still drives well as a daily... I will do some more researching 👍


From my car the times were 812 hub hp 100-200 4.8 seconds, 928 hub hp 100-200 4.3 seconds


----------



## PaulcbaGtr (Apr 11, 2020)

AVBR35 said:


> Thanks Guys... this has given me some food for thought.
> Ideally I'd like a car that could do 10 dead in the quarter and very low 4s in the 100-200kph but still drives well as a daily... I will do some more researching 👍


Thats exactly what i would like,in the 4s and a low 10 sec car. Most cars would struggle to keep with that,apart from a Maclaren 720s! cant believe how quick those cars are against much higher output cars.


----------



## AVBR35 (Jun 27, 2020)

PaulcbaGtr said:


> Thats exactly what i would like,in the 4s and a low 10 sec car. Most cars would struggle to keep with that,apart from a Maclaren 720s! cant believe how quick those cars are against much higher output cars.


This is what I was thinking too.. although a 1100HP seems to do it...


----------



## PaulcbaGtr (Apr 11, 2020)

Living life fast with Nick driving though lol . Only just though and i thought that car would pull alot more.


----------



## Hugh Keir (Jul 25, 2001)

Not clear from the above Dyno Plots whether they are engine BHP or Wheel BHP.

Here is my build thread:- 1200 BHP project build

I have maximum 1025 Wheel HP and over 1000 Wheel HP from 5500RPM to 7500RPM

Wheel Torque is as follows:-

3000 RPM 450 ft/lbs
4000RPM 780 ft/lbs
5000 RPM 950 ft/lbs

Depending on who you talk to you will see the translation of wheel to engine between 15% and 22%

Mine is a barrel of laughs to drive, probably over 1200BHP engine.

You wanted to know the difference between 700 & 800 ft/lbs, you do not say whether that is engine or wheel power?


----------



## AVBR35 (Jun 27, 2020)

Hi Hugh Keir

Thanks for the thread link, just having a good read through it now.
I was looking at wheel power, Looking at some of your guys builds, I am starting to think perhaps go for for more than 800ftlbs but I want to be able to use it as a daily too (well certainly 4-5 days a week)


----------



## Hugh Keir (Jul 25, 2001)

If you look at my torque figures and compare them to a 4.25 build, you will see that they are similar around 3000 RPM, however at anything above that you will find that my car will walk away.

The point is that torque is king low down and BHP is your friend above 5000 RPM.

Make no mistake, it is hard to hold on to torque once you start tinkering.

Having done this many times with different cars, key points for me are are mild cams and responsive turbos.


----------



## AVBR35 (Jun 27, 2020)

Thanks for the info... there's so many options. Definitely need to do some more research.


----------



## Reano (Oct 1, 2015)

BTW the car is currently here its the SVM 1000r for pictures and specs, etc will write more later Severn Valley Motorsport Im not looking to run 1000 bhp though all being over speccd on my instructions. Plus lite seats, carbon roof, boot spoiler, etc


----------



## archan (Apr 25, 2019)

Go for a built trans. Much more cost effective to get the work done when the engine is out and being built.
Go Albins gearset if you want quite. Go Dodson if you want a bit of whine in 3rd and 4th. PPG if you want massive whine.
As others have already said a built GT-R is a friggin beast! Go 1000+ crank HP and 900+ ft/lb (1200+ Nm) and you will be in the 9s in the 1/4 mile and possibly in the 3s 100-200 km/h.


----------



## adz87kc (Jan 8, 2018)

archan said:


> Go for a built trans. Much more cost effective to get the work done when the engine is out and being built.



Is it? 
Transmission is at the opposite end of the car. Surely the only common components are the prop shafts at that's only a handful of bolts.


----------



## archan (Apr 25, 2019)

Ah, should have been better phrased. More cost effective to get all done at the same session at the shop. Clutches need to be swapped, ETS and so on. Usually you can get a nice package deal, especially off-season.


----------



## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

I’m struggling to see any package deals here. Just a fixed hourly rate And similar parts prices.


----------



## archan (Apr 25, 2019)

In Sweden, Germany and the US package deals are commonplace. Hope it reaches you in UK too. Usually a % off the total price.
Anyway, Good luck with whatever route you go. Just remember skipping essentials now might cost a lot more later.


----------



## Ben-Stian (Jul 15, 2020)

scoooby slayer said:


> Managed to find my old dynoplots in photobucket account
> 
> Petrol 1.5 bar and e50 1.8 bar turbos flat out power flatlined approx 960 crank hp
> 
> ...


Nice
When you dynoed @ the hub dyno, was it AWD, or did you remove the driveshaft to the front wheels?
Thanks


----------



## scoooby slayer (Jun 13, 2009)

Ben-Stian said:


> Nice
> When you dynoed @ the hub dyno, was it AWD, or did you remove the driveshaft to the front wheels?
> Thanks


Rwd mode in syvecs


----------



## AVBR35 (Jun 27, 2020)

Reano said:


> BTW the car is currently here its the SVM 1000r for pictures and specs, etc will write more later Severn Valley Motorsport Im not looking to run 1000 bhp though all being over speccd on my instructions. Plus lite seats, carbon roof, boot spoiler, etc


Do you know what sort of weight reduction you are looking at Reano?


----------



## Reano (Oct 1, 2015)

I don’t know maybe close to 50-100kg if I can, think the seats might save easy 10 kg each. Exhaust 15kg, brakes maybe 15kg in total, roof, spoiler, cats, etc maybe 20kg. When car back will calculate properly. On top I believe I’ll have about 800lb/ft torque and 800 - 900 bhp for fast spool street and occasional track. All over specd to at least 1000bhp and circa 900 lb/ft torque (Engine, drivetrain, etc). I’m not going for extreme weight saving. Only thing remaining will be to save weight on the wheels e.g. Nismo or similar. With all of these it should save 100kg easy without sacrificing comfort/noise.


----------



## Hugh Keir (Jul 25, 2001)

I went for carbon brakes - saves 12.4 lbs on each front rotor and 14.9 on each rear, so 54.6lbs weight saving on the unsprung weight.

Also Tillett seats, which from memory saves around 100lbs off the sprung weight.

Titanium exhaust is a good saving, can't remember how much though.


----------



## Reano (Oct 1, 2015)

Wow!!! Thanks that’s way more than I thought. So brakes 20kg+, seats probably 30kg. Mine will be the Recaro that are similar to m2 and very comfy already tried them with heating.


----------



## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

What’s your final engine spec?


----------



## Reano (Oct 1, 2015)

So far

The spec so far to date is...

SVM Forged Engine (CP Pistons & Rods)
SVM Stage 4 Turbo's with Cast Downpipes
SVM Stage 1 Heads
Cams
ASNU Fuel Injection
1200cc Injectors
-
Akrapovic
Exhaust System
- Stage 3 Built Gearbox (1 - 6 Gearset + 4WD Mods)

Modified Front Differential
SVM Fueling & Breathing Upgrades
Marstons Aerospace High-Density Intercooler (inc SVM 80mm Hard Pipe Kit)
-
KW Suspensions - UK
HLS4 lift kit (which can lift the entire car 2"+)

ST Carbon Ceramic Brakes
Bespoke 16x Plate Clutch System
Linney AWD controller
and much, much more! It’s an all round package even the electronic gadgets like emergency services detector
just fast road and some track. Have no intention for drag. Going to the limits of traction for Mp4s tyres and maybe track tyres of 888r or something similar just for track.


----------



## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

What lift and duration cams have you chosen?
what spec/brand turbo’s?


----------



## Reano (Oct 1, 2015)

Turbo will just be i hi stage 4 (basically svm max config for original). I’ll get the exact cam details later ( but probably out of 264 or 272) as we have been trialling a few things for example was gonna go bigger injectors but decided to scale back to 1200, same with clutch 18 --> 16, larger turbo — to modded ihi. As I felt i was moving too far from stock drivability, reliability, idle, etc. The car is for Michelin mp4s tyres (maybe 888r Or similar as per Lp4j posts can’t Remember exact name, for track), stock interior, mainly street 95% of time with small amount of track. Even though what I’m getting is over enginered for that, I’ll create a project page with photos, print outs, etc when complete.

Also with the drop in 100kg+ weight, anti roll bars, new suspension (I have the road handling kit from Litchfield), etc should also make it more nimble around the twisties 😀
i read loads from threads from jamieP, adamantium, etc and loads of others on here and saw the inevitable creep towards strip, fast quarter mile times, top speed, etc some with idle issues/less road manners, etc and wanted to be strict on mine 😀😀😀😀

hope I can stick to it 😀.


----------



## Tiler (Mar 28, 2014)

4.6 is the way to go. In the mid 3secs 100to200 dragy times.


----------



## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

What’s the full spec of the motor?


----------



## Reano (Oct 1, 2015)

Tiler said:


> 4.6 is the way to go. In the mid 3secs 100to200 dragy times.


No way  in these Covid times saving money is key (well for me it is) to get to the motor I like. 4.6 and the supporting mods must be very expensive? How much is that? For a street car, daily driver 900 bhp and 800lb yes.


----------



## Tiler (Mar 28, 2014)

Skint said:


> What’s the full spec of the motor?


I will have ago. With the big bits. 

To start with everything was supplied and fitted by litchfields. 

4.6 red top engine
Callies ultra billet crankshaft
Callies ultra enforcer I beam rods
Litchfield pistons 
Ported and polished heads with larger cc intake and larger valves
Litchfield billet engine girdle
Litchfields updated fuel system 
Litchfields manifolds with 7663 turbos
Ams intake manifold with 12 injectors 
Full Dodson gearbox and clutches extreme 
Dodson 4 wheel drive unit
Litchfield gearbox cooler
The list is endless.


----------



## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

Are you on an alloy block?


----------



## HellsSalesman (Apr 12, 2017)

stock block is good for up to 2000hp


----------



## Tiler (Mar 28, 2014)

Skint said:


> Are you on an alloy block?


Yes it’s still on the original block.


----------



## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

Do you know the rod ratio by any chance?


----------



## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

Borexstroke?


----------



## Tiler (Mar 28, 2014)

I would not have a clue. All I no is it is a mixture of bore and stroke that makes it a 4.6.


----------



## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

I like that setup in a road car, over 700 torques across a 5000 rpm rev band, must drive awesome.


----------



## Tiler (Mar 28, 2014)

Skint said:


> I like that setup in a road car, over 700 torques across a 5000 rpm rev band, must drive awesome.


Yes it drives very smoothly but the low down torque is very close to a supercharged v8. For a road car it is almost perfect.


----------



## Reano (Oct 1, 2015)

What’s the rough cost of this?


----------



## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

I think build wise it’s just the stroker crankshaft additional to any forged lump build.


----------



## Tiler (Mar 28, 2014)

Reano said:


> What’s the rough cost of this?


I would say. Approximately you will get no change from £45k. For the complete set up.


----------



## PaulcbaGtr (Apr 11, 2020)

Thats still good though considering thats huge performance mid 3s from 100 -200. What car for 100k can match that ??


----------



## Reano (Oct 1, 2015)

Tiler said:


> I would say. Approximately you will get no change from £45k. For the complete set up.


Would be surprised if its that low if all supporting mods to take full advantage is considered. Yes the gtr is a ridiculous sports car for tuning, will be lamented in years to come. Till the electrics take over..


----------



## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

Reano what sort of money do you anticipate yours will cost at SVM as a comparison?


----------



## Reano (Oct 1, 2015)

Mine will be less than 50k including lighter Recaro seats, kw hls4 (lift kit), kw v3 coilovers, albin full gear set, 16x plate clutch, Quaife lsd, ihi stage 4 turbos, anti roll bars front and rear, fully built engine, 1300 injectors, upgrade fuel pumps, head work, I’m sticking to original cams, race marstons intercooler, sd kit, 4 bar map sensor, 4wd upgrade, carbon fibre roof, carbon fibre boot spoiler, Mapping, 4 wheel alignment and suspension setup, plus other stuff I can’t even remember but note. This I believe would probably be closer to 75k plus if I didn’t do some swap deals, some donor stuff that SVM did for me, etc. No way this would cost less than 50k. I know Litchfield we’re charging 50k for lm1000 years ago.

SVM were excellent (having gone to others with what I would call less than good after service) to get my carbon ceramics refurbed, fitted, i also have akrapovic titanium exhaust fitted.

SVM also helped in conjunction with R35audio to have some lovely electronics And audio fitted will show case in project section next month.

I found SRD to be excellent in customer service and if it were not for their wait time and distance could have gone with them but some deals I couldn’t pass.

my requirement to meet was as follows. To go to the limit of traction on road (mitchelin) tyres at the best price. So I wanted everything built around that for road use (nice idle, street manners, except when I go for it). I’m not looking at chasing bhp with dialled down torque. I want as much as I can get that can actually be put down on the street, so low down torque, acceleration, is for me not high rpm bhp (that is second). So in a nutshell c800lbft torque with reliability at the best price.

track comes second, drag does not figure at all... Hope that helps


----------



## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

What sort of time scale do think it will be to put it all together?


----------



## Reano (Oct 1, 2015)

Should be complete next week so c6 weeks (but thats with some stops for getting certain things in) , etc


----------



## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

When it’s completed any chance of a full detailed write up?


----------



## Reano (Oct 1, 2015)

Im opening a project page with pictures my experiences, etc, etc.
I have been real strict on this and I must have sent over 100 emails with them. A guy called Steve Parton has been outstanding!!! I mean super outstanding the best I have come across in 20+ years of car tuners for customer service. Each time ive done something ive asked a question and its none of that (youve paid your cash get lost kind of vibe you can get...).

The key with this was one thing only, max I can get within the limits of the tyres for standard road tyres, at best price. As this I feel will be my last full petrol car in 4/5 years Im probably gonna go Corvette c8 Zr1 hybrid. Or GTR hybrid if it comes out.


----------



## cotter (Mar 19, 2020)

What are the limits of tyres, Jamie P just done 100 to 200 in 2.8sec on the street. 20 inch wheels 4s tyres. Over 1100fbt.


----------



## Reano (Oct 1, 2015)

Mine will be standard tyres like him and I’m talking low down torque, not speed limit breaking speeds. It’s all around 0- 80 (speedo accuracy, tyre offset blah blah) on the roads. most of tuners tend to say 800lb/ft low down is the sweet spot for traction on street within legal limits. I guess I will see (I hope). I did read a lot on his, Ryan g, Adam, etc just to see what was what.


----------



## cotter (Mar 19, 2020)

Ok seems a lot of money and huge spec to keep within the speed limits, normally the gtr comes alive at these speeds in standard form let alone tuned. A tesla would do what your after, anyhoo hope it goes well.


----------



## Reano (Oct 1, 2015)

A Tesla is actually more and doesnt go round corners very well (remember I didn’t say what I paid just what it was less than which is considerably less than the number I referenced). As I do want some track time (Remember that’s my second). I did consider one, drove one as well as hiring Porsche turbo S, Aston Martin and some other exotics for that very reason (someone will say why not buy xyz) all covered. Porsche was considerably more for way less, Tesla more for less (When I looked at options and one where batteries were not half used as only a few p100’s that are ok but again not something I would take on track), Aston Martin.... I think you get the picture. Aston Martin gave me actual back ache after two days use.

Coming alive at 100mph? Unfortunately if I wanted that I would just hire a mclaren or similar for the odd day I would be doing that in anger. Give me the GTR monster for everyday speeds and then use it for the odd track day.

So from actual experience no a Tesla doesn’t do what I was after 😀. I also have a friend that owns one with loads of recalls, battery issues, etc, etc and constantly planning trips by how close he can get to a charger. As you can see done the research. Hope this helps others.


----------



## cotter (Mar 19, 2020)

Cool if you want it for track time as well makes more sense.I was in a 720 on a trackday couple of weeks ago awesome toy.But there is plenty life left in a GTR after 100mph even standard. I'm sure you will have fun.


----------



## Reano (Oct 1, 2015)

Hope so. 720 must be awesome. I know this is a GTR forum but I just don’t think there is an all round car as good as it for the price. Good round town, street and track.


----------



## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

Did’nt realise you were already that committed.

Post some dyno sheets up when it’s finished.


----------



## sharp_platonic (Nov 27, 2017)

I'm clearly going to wait for when it is completed.


----------



## Reano (Oct 1, 2015)

I hope it all goes to plan  My only issue based on others is I think for street will be fine just need to check re the occasional track use and extra cooling but that will be a future thing. All round the car has a few things to show case like

1) Police/emergency/plain clothes detector
2) battery pack so camera front and rear can be on even when engine is off and car is parked . with bluetooth access (not fully setup yet)
3) Upgraded audio including stage 2 R35audio with ability to tune myself
4) radar detection (and some other stuff ..... ;-) )
5) Linney AWD controller

Etc, etc will show case all and tell what I think strengths, weakness, photos. Alas I will lose the suspension controller which Hugh setup but that (DSC) will be on sale.


----------



## Turbotwo (Jan 28, 2011)

Tiler said:


> 4.6 is the way to go. In the mid 3secs 100to200 dragy times.
> View attachment 263618


Any more Dragy times? 0-100 1/4 mile etc?
Your car sounds epic with that 4.6!


----------



## Reano (Oct 1, 2015)

Willing to tell what the 4.6 red top cost on its own (ignore supporting mods just the red top build)?


----------



## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

Where’s does the 4.6 have an advantage over a lower cc motor?


----------



## PaulcbaGtr (Apr 11, 2020)

I would think right across the power band. Im assuming it wouldnt rev as quick as a 3.8 motor. My evo had a stroker kit and i loved the low down torque,but wasnt supposed to rev as quick. I really could nt tell the difference.


----------



## scoooby slayer (Jun 13, 2009)

Tiler said:


> 4.6 is the way to go. In the mid 3secs 100to200 dragy times.
> View attachment 263618


If you've done 3.5 seconds on pump get it on gtr cartel board as I believe that is the quickest on pump, at 1080 whp pump I'm only pulling 4.1 

Do you have dragy screenshot ?


----------



## Reano (Oct 1, 2015)

AVBR35 said:


> Hi
> Does anyone have a LM1000 or JM1000 or similar? I have decided to go for the plunge and early next year upgrade my 4.25 to somewhere around 900-1000hp with 800ftlb (enough ooomph to spank a stage 2 M5 F90 ) . My question is what sort of performance difference is there between say 700ftlb and 800ftlb at this level of HP?
> 
> Thanks.


 Thread resurrection AVBR35 did you do this project?


----------



## Skint (Oct 11, 2014)

Interested too


----------



## Wobbly Bob (Jul 1, 2021)

i am blown away by what you guys can acheive this is my first gtr and 650bhp 4.25 is like a rocked to me but if i was there would be an eye opener


----------

